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Showcase
I finally got my grandsons bed done. It turned out fantastic! I made it a bit shorter than your plans called for, the 4×4 posts are 4 ft tall, but I still used the 18″ drop for the rail and cleat. Since he's just 3, we wanted it a bit lower. It's the perfect height for us to stand and give him a kiss at the rail when he's in bed.
Finishing Technique
The hardware store I went to didn't have any 5/16 carriage bolts, and I didn't want to run around looking for them, so I used 3/8 carriage bolts instead. Also, instead of using a ladder, I bought stair runners (I think that's what they are called) and built stairs. I did put them upside down, that wasn't a mistake, his room is small and they took up too much room if we put them the right way. So I added another 4×4 post to attach the stairs to.
I used 3/8 hex screws (5 inches long) to attach the stairs to the posts (I predilled the holes to make it easier to put the hex screws in, but still took some muscle). I also added the decorative balls on top to 'fancy' it up a bit. It has 2 coats of 'natural cherry' stain on it.
Zayden absolutely LOVES his new bed and 'man cave'. The letters are just the inexpensive wood ones that I painted and attached with a smidge of poster putty. I'm going to add a spring tension rod and curtains between the posts so he can have a tent, without me having to clamp a blanket up there.
Thank you so much for posting your plans, they made this bed so easy to build….except for drilling thru the posts and bottom rail, that took some muscle. *lol*
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Abington Cabinet
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ½” plywood
- Scrap of ¼” plywood at least 16” x 31-1/2”
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 8 ft. baseboard trim
Materials
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- One set of 16” drawer slides
- Two sets of hinges
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾”plywood at 17-3/4” x 40-3/4”- Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 32-1/2” x 40-3/4” Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 35”- Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 32-1/2” – Bottom & Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 32-1/2” – Kick Plate
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 32-1/2” – Shelf
- 4 – 1×3 at 11-1/16” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 30” – Door Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 11-1/16” x 25” – Door Panels
- 2 – 1×4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×4 at 31-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 16” x 31-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 32-1/4” – Drawer Front
- 2 – baseboard trim at 17-3/4” – Side Trim
- 1 – baseboard trim at 35” – Front Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each side edge as well as the top edge. Attach to the side pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top will overlap by ½” at the front and sides.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the bottom and divider. Drill pocket hole screws in the sides and one long edge of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach from the underside using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in the sides as well as one long edge for the back. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the shelf ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.
Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the door frame using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back side of the door panel should be flush with the back side of the frame.
Attach the hinges – there will be a 1/8” gap on all sides of the doors as well as in the center.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Don’t forget to set the Kreg jig back to ¾” material! Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Attach to the drawer box using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the drawer front. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, click here.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach the side pieces first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
Hallowed and Ghoulish, and no that isn't the name of a store…though it likely could be, no? It was brought to my attention this morning that we are rapidly approaching the Fall Season. I love the summer months, but after days on end of stifling hot temperatures, I love the onset of slightly cooler weather, without the rain we typically have in the Spring. I love to decorate with fall colors and fall inspired items but I LOVE to decorate for Halloween even more! It just might be my favorite holiday (excepting of course those holidays that involve gift giving…gotta love gifts!). I think in large part my love for this day definitely involves the fun that comes with dressing up, but mainly it's my chance to include all of the dark and dreary accessories that I adore, without my family and friends wondering if I need professional help! Take a peak at a few of the fun things from around the web that I am loving for the impending hallowed and ghoulish days ahead…
I think the free Clip Art available at the Graphics Fairy under her Halloween Category would make for some amazing Wall Decor, especially framed in Black. Or her Poison labels…how fun on would those be on wine bottles at Halloween themed party.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Kelty Coffee Table! This gal is a beauty, if I do say so myself!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 7 – 2×2 at 8’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 2” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 2” wide edge banding
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 23-1/4” – Feet
- 6 – 2×2 at 13-1/2” – Side Frame & Center Dividers
- 4 – 2×2 at 44-1/4” – Stretchers
- 4 – 2×2 at 10-1/4” – Small X
- 2 – 2×2 at 21-7/8” – Small X
- 8 – 2×2 at 12-1/16” – Large X
- 4 – 2×2 at 25-1/4” – Large X
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 48-1/4” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the feet. Cut the arc in each end using a jigsaw and maintaining 20-1/4” between the arcs on each foot. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one long end of each leg to be used as the top of the frame.
Cut the pieces for the side frame. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the feet as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long end of each piece that will be used as the top stretchers (the pocket holes will enable the top to be attached to the frame). Attach as shown to the sides using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown to the sides using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the small Xs. Cut the angles as shown. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces as indicated and attach to the larger piece using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Position the Xs in the side frames with the pocket holes facing in. Attach using glue and toenailed 2” screws through the X into the feet. Use longer screws if necessary.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the larger Xs. Cut the angles as shown. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces as indicated and attach to the larger piece using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Position the Xs in the longer frames with the pocket holes facing in. Attach using glue and toenailed 2” screws through the X into the feet. Use longer screws if necessary.
Cut the pieces for the top. Spread glue on the face of one of the pieces and position the other piece on top. Wiggle it around a little to create suction and clamp until dry. Insert a few brad nails the hold the piece together. Apply edge banding and trim away the excess.
Position the top on the table frame with ½” overlapping each side and ¼” overlapping the edge of each foot piece.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
It was a great day of sweat and lessons learned and in the end a bbq'd dinner on our new table.
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Stria 3-Drawer Dresser
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Full sheet of ¼” plywood
- Half sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 3 – 1×8 at 8’
- 3 – 1×8 at 4’
Materials
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1” brad nails
- 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 31” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 32-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 34” – Top
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 31-3/4” x 34” – Back
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2” wide) x 16-3/4” – Pedestal
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2” wide) x 32-1/2” – Pedestal
- 6 – 1×8 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 6 – 1×8 at 31-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 3 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 31-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 3 – ½” plywood at 10-1/2” x 34” – Drawer Fronts
- 15 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 34” – Trim Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece as well as the top of the side pieces. Attach using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides into the top. Check for square.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back then attach using glue and 1” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the pedestal. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long end of each piece. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach to the bottom of the cabinet. There will be a ¾” border around the pedestal.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer box bottoms and attach using glue and 1” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach to the drawer boxes with glue and a few 1” brad nails. Place the brad nails where they will be covered by the trim slats.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the trim slats. There will be ½” spacing between slats. Attach to the drawer fronts using glue and 1” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
This isn't exactly to your plan specs, but a little closer maybe to
the original I saw from a picture online. A friend wanted this for
her new son.
Estimated Cost
It would only be a few dollars to make (except I used free scraps).
Length of Time
It took a couple hours to make
Lumber Used
I made it with scraps I had lying around out of pine.
Finishing Technique
I left it unfinished and she is going to paint it to match her child's room.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pet Organization Dresser, with a pull out drawer for the bowls and a lift up top to store the dog or cat food, this piece is sure to hide those untidy items and give them a bit of style!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- One full sheet of ¾” plywood
- One quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for the edges of the plywood, optional
- One set of 14” Drawer Slides
- 3 – Drawer Pulls
- One 24” Continuous Hinge
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 26-1/2” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” a 26-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” a 21” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 21” – Shelf
- 1 – ¾”plywood at 18-3/4” x 19-1/2” – Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 23-1/2” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-7/8” x 23-1/2” – Top
- 2 – 1×4 at 14” – Side Trim
- 1 – 1×4 at 24” – Front Trim
- 2 – ¾”plywood at 6-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 18-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Drawer Box
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/8” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding should be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each side of the panels. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panels will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each side. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the bottom. Cut the notches as shown noting that the notches at one end will differ from the notches at the other end. Drill pocket holes in the sides and back of the bottom. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. (Pocket holes can also be drilled where the notches meet the legs.)
Step 4
Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut the notches as shown. Drill pocket holes in the sides and back of the shelf. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. (Pocket holes can also be drilled where the notches meet the legs.)
Step 5
Cut the piece for the front. Drill pocket holes in the sides. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face will be flush with the front faces of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the trim. Cut the arches with a jig saw. Attach the side pieces first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the top. Secure the smaller piece to the back of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The back of this piece will be flush with the back while the sides will overlap by ½”.
Position the larger piece with a 1/8” gap between pieces. Attach the continuous hinge according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Cut the holes for the containers in the center piece positioning them approximately 1” from the front edge. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown and position the center piece approximately ½” to ¾” down from the top of the sides. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Position the top two as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill the holes for the drawer hardware. Position the lower drawer front with a 1/8” gap at the bottom (so the front doesn’t rub on the trim) and attach to the drawer box. For another easy tutorial, click here. Install the drawer hardware.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Urban Outfitters Inspired Industrial Storage Cabinet
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 8 – 1×4 at 8’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
- One sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 9 sets of 14” drawer slides
- 9 drawer pulls or knobs
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 39-1/4” –Legs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 31” – Side Panels
- 4 – 1×2 at 13” – Side Frames
- 1 – 1×4 at 24” – Lower Apron
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 24” – Bottom
- 9 – 1×2 at 24” – Back & Drawer Stretchers
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 27” x 32-1/2” – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 4-1/2” – Lower Drawer Divider
- 2 – 1×2 at 4-3/4” – Upper Drawer Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 28” – Top
- 6 – 1×4 at 6-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Boxes
- 18 – 1×4 at 12-1/2” – All Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 1×4 at 10-5/8” – Middle Drawer Boxes
- 8 – 1×4 at 23” – Larger Drawer Boxes
- 3 – ¼” plywood at 6-1/2” x 14” – Smaller Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 10-5/8” x 14” – Middle Drawer Boxes
- 4 – ¼” plywood at 14” x 23” – Larger Drawer Boxes
- 4 – ¾”plywood at 4-1/4” x 23-3/4” – Larger Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/4” x 11-3/8” – Middle Drawer Fronts
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 7-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the frame.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the lower apron. Cut the curve as shown using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the front as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes to attach to the legs, lower apron, and back stretcher. Attach using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. The top of the bottom shelf will be flush with the top of the lower apron.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the drawer stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the lower divider. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4”brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the upper divider. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the legs, side frame, and back stretcher. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the bottoms. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. For a tutorial on how to attach drawer fronts, click here. Attach the drawer hardware.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
We really enjoy sitting out and eating together in the evening.
Estimated Cost
The cost was around $80 for the table and 2 benches.
Length of Time
It took about 3 days to build.
Lumber Used
I made this with pine 2×4's from the hardware store.
Finishing Technique
My kiddos helped me “paint”/stain it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Stria 6-Drawer Dresser
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- Full sheet of ¼” plywood
- Half sheet of ¼” plywood
- Full sheet of ½” plywood
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 6 – 1×8 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1” brad nails
- 6 sets of 18” drawer slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 31” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 54-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 30-1/4” – Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-” x 56” – Top
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 31-3/4” x 56” – Back
- 3 – 1×3 (ripped to 2” wide) x 16-3/4” – Pedestal
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2” wide) x 54-1/2” – Pedestal
- 12 – 1×8 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 12 – 1×8 at 25-7/8” – Drawer Boxes
- 6 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 25-7/8” – Drawer Bottoms
- 6 – ½” plywood at 10-1/2” x 27-15/16” – Drawer Fronts
- 30 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 27-15/16” – Trim Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece as well as the top of the side pieces. Attach using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides into the top. Check for square.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back then attach using glue and 1” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the pedestal. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long end of each piece. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach to the bottom of the cabinet. There will be a ¾” border around the pedestal.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer box bottoms and attach using glue and 1” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach to the drawer boxes with glue and a few 1” brad nails. Place the brad nails where they will be covered by the trim slats.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the trim slats. There will be ½” spacing between slats. Attach to the drawer fronts using glue and 1” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
We’re sorely in need of cabinets since the “fixer upper” house we purchased only had a few. So after a few years of wishing I decided to look and see if it’s possible for me to build my own. That’s when I stumbled on your website and the plans for the cabinets. So about 4 weeks ago I began the first one, and screwed up on the outset. I have access to a bunch of rough cut cypress, but nothing with a “gauge cut” edge or consistent thickness. So I elected to go with a couple of the Stain grade panels sold at Lowes, essentially a white pine. They’re edge glued and come in different widths and lengths. The screw up came when I read the wrong measurement and purchased the 16” wide panels. Built the whole box before realizing that I had just made a 17” deep wall cabinet. Turned out to be ok, the wife is happy with it, so I ran with it. The other mistake was using the wrong stain to begin with. Tuned the wood a reddish color (which the wife didn’t want), so I had to try and get some of it out, or scrap the whole thing. Ended up going with the Minwax Early American stain. Wife is happy again. For the second one I used a different method to obtain the wide panels. (The photos make the whole setup look redder than it actually is). Reason for using the boards instead of the plywood as called for in the plans was that I didn’t have an easy way (or a dry one) to bring plywood home. Plywood is expensive at the big box stores, it’s astronomical at the local stores where I live.
(first cabinet) One furthest to right
Materials: The panel is the 16”x 96” x 1” stain grade panels sold at Lowes for about $ 28.00. (2) 1”x2” 8’ long of the “select pine” sold at Lowes. About $12.00 (1) 1”x3” 8’ long of the “select pine” sold at Lowes. About $ 7.00 Wood glue, various pockethole screws and finish nails. Back panel was the 5MM thick plywood 4’x4’ section sold at Home Depot for $ 9.00 Shelves are two pieces of 1×8 edge glued, and screwed into place with pockethole screws. Door dimensions: 15”x29”. The door panels was made out of (1) 1”x6” x8’ pine tongue and groove cut to 29” (three lengths) about $5.00 at Lowes. The door frame is a 1×3 ripped down to 2 ¼” wide, and planed down to ½”. Hinges were a pack of two for less than $3.00 @ Home Depot. Also used some glazing the gaps between the boards, the covered with a light coat of satin finish.
(second cabinet) One on left.
Materials: Side panels, top and bottom: (1) 1×10 x8’, (2) 1×8 x8’ Spruce boards. Bought local hardware for about 25 dollars. Ripped to appropriate lengths doweled and glued, ripped down to width. Shelf again was two pieces of 1×8 edge glued and screwed into place. Back panel was another piece from the 5mm section listed above.
The corner cabinet was mirrored after a store bought one, using a 4’x4’x1/2” piece of birch plywood for top and sides, and 1” thick piece of cedar board that I ripped to three lengths, and doweled and edge glued together for the bottom. Standard 1×4 pine used for the incidental framing.
