This table makes me want to throw out my existing table and start again from scratch! Absolutely gorgeous and easy to build!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
$50-$75
- 8 – 2×4 at 8’
- 7 – 2×6 at 6’
- Scrap of 2×3
- Scrap 1” dowel
- 3” Wood Screws
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Screws
- 2-1/2″ Wood Screws
- 2″ Wood Screws
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak– optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- 4 – 2×4 at 43-13/16” – Legs
- 8 – 2×4 at 20-1/8” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 36-1/2” – Frame
- 2 – 2×4 at 64” – Frame
- 1 – 2×4 at 58” – Stretcher
- 2 – 2×4 at 33-1/2” – Supports
- 7 – 2×6 at 63” – Table Top
- 2 – 2×4 at 38-1/2” – Table Top
- 2 – 2×3 at 2” – Decorative Pin
- 2 – 1” dowel at 6” – Decorative Pin
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the straight edges of the shorter pieces. Assemble in an “X” as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. There will be four assemblies. Using glue and 2-1/2” countersunk screws, secure two Xs together back to back (pocket holes on the inside) to form two table legs.
Cut the pieces for the aprons and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer apron pieces as well as the stretcher. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each of the longer pieces, as well as the center of each shorter piece, to attach the table top. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach the legs to the frame using glue and 3” countersunk screws from the outside. The top of the legs should be flush with the top of the frame.
Attach the stretcher to the center of the cross-sections of the Xs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Secure to the frame as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the table top. Drill pocket holes in the 2×6 pieces as shown. Assemble the 2×6 pieces together first using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the 2×4 ends using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
The top will overlap the frame by 1” on each side, and 1-1/2” at each shorter end. Use 2” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the frame into the table top.
Cut the pieces for the decorative pin at the X. Drill pocket holes in the bottom of the 2×3 piece, then bore a 1” hole close to the same edge for the dowel pin. Attach to X with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Thank you soo much for the plans. My wife is in love with this table and has decided to make this her first project. Which has turned into our first project…
Were trying to make this counter-height (35.5). To do this, would adding 5.5 inches to the leg lengths do the job? Looking to making it a bit wider as well (48) so figured if we just lengthend the legs it would work….
Hope you cam help..thanks!
Why didn’t you just use 4×4’s on the legs? Was is based on wood availability in the species you used? The PB one looks like a 4×4.