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Design / Shopping
It’s that time again my sweet friends… yes the time to celebrate all that is good in the world of fabulous home decor! That is cause for celebration on it’s own merit, but even more exciting are the items I am crushing on for this week! I am feeling a taste of fall creeping in with my current love of all things camel, copper and black and these pieces are all that and the whole damn bag of chips, am I right?
This painting by Pierre Soulages is not actually available, that I am able to find, but I think this is something you could definitely DIY. If you are a tad fearful of your skills as an artist, this type of work is a great way to cut your teeth and get used to the feel of a brush in your hand! Mistakes will only look that much more abstract… go for it! The pendant light is so fabulous and surprisingly affordable! I was expecting something in the upper triple digits if you know what I mean. Such a statement piece… I love the idea of adding new stylish towels to your bath to give things a quick updated look for this ‘season of change’. What better way to do that with than a little faux croc and camel colored goodness? Oh this little stool, it makes my heart sing I tell you… A perfect little side table to add that extra bit of surface to your space and a whole lot of style! Onyx flatware? Yes please.. You make my nonexistent dinner parties look so totally amazing!
What are you coveting right now? Anything fall related? Or are you still hanging onto summer like I am…
To see other editions of Friday I’m In Love, follow that link to the left!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry Dresser, and one of three new pieces we will be covering in this fabulous little collection! I hope you guys like it, I know I do! Xx…Rayan
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 Half sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- ¼” plywood or lattice strips measuring 1-1/2” wide – approximately 2 – 8’ strips
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- ½” brad nails
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1-1/4” screws
- 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 3 drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×2 at 4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 14-7/8” – Aprons
- 2 – 1×2 at 32-7/8” – Aprons
- 1 – 1×2 at 14-7/16” – Support
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 36” – Bottom & Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 28-1/2” –Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 28-1/2” x 34-1/2” –Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 32” – Drawer Box Bottoms
- 6 – 1×8 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 6 – 1×8 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 1 – ½” plywood at 30” x 36” – Drawer Front Base
- Strips of ¼” plywood or lattice strips at 1-1/2” x 6” to 8” long (your choice!)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.
Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The inside face o the legs will be flush with the inside face of the aprons.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the aprons as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges as shown. Secure to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top and secure to sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Install the drawer slides and make any necessary adjustments.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the drawer front base, as well as the trim pieces. There is no cut list or number of pieces listed. Most of the pieces will be attached to the drawer front as-is, but several will have to be cut to fit. Start by positioning the first piece at the top center of the drawer front base at a 45 degree angle as shown. Secure in place using glue and ½” brad nails.
Position the next piece perpendicular to the start piece as shown. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Once these two pieces have been positioned, the rest of the pieces can be added, cutting and trimming as necessary.
Step 8
Once all of the trim pieces have been positioned, the drawer front base can be cut apart for the individual drawer fronts. This way the trim pattern matches on each of the drawer fronts. It will also help to number the back side of the drawer fronts. Set the rip fence on the table saw the required distance away from the blade to create each drawer front. Run the piece through the saw. Reset the rip fence for the next drawer front, and run it through the saw. The drawer fronts can also be cut apart using a jigsaw and a straight edge. Mark the position for the drawer pulls on the front and drill the holes for the screws. Position the fronts in place on the cabinet and drive screws through the holes for the pull into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer and secure the front in place using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the front and finish drilling the holes for the pulls. There will be a 1/8” gap between the drawer fronts. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
Making simple no-sew pillows is quite simply easy as pie and has become one of my favorite pastimes….that I do in the present… a lot. I always seem to have clothing that no longer fits or has been 'injured' in some way, most likely a DIY project involving paint, fabric dye or cement… and turning those clothing remnants into pillows is a great way to get yourself a one of a kind pillow that is in a style you very likely love, you know, since you formerly wore the thing. It costs you no more than the fabric glue and perhaps a pillow insert if you don't already have on hand a shabby pillow you are also tired of and that could use an update.
If you are working with fabric you purchase, this process couldn't be more easy… simply cut your fabric into 2 equally sized squares approximately 1″ larger than your pillow insert, place the 'right' sides in (facing each other), and run a line of glue in between your squares along 3 of the sides, let it dry for a few minutes, turn right side out, insert pillow, and carefully glue the last side by running a thin line of glue along one top edge and gently laying the other bottom edge over the line of glue. This is sort of like folding the top down on an envelope, only teeny tiny and much more permanent.
See how easy it is… I gave you the whole run down in 1 long run on sentence! Yay! Down below I will show you how I do this when I am working with a shirt or tank top, which seems to be the most common form my pillows come in these days.
When you are working with a shirt or tank that has 2 sides already sewn, and a hem along the bottom edge, this works to your advantage quite a bit. It really means you only need to glue 2 out of the 4 sides, and one of them is all nice and even just waiting for you to do so. I leave that side for my closing side since it's likely to be the easiest to work with along that last edge you will close up.
Before I make any cuts I generally place my pillow inside the shirt so I can see about where I need to hack that baby up at. I just use my fingers to hold the sides together and then eyeball an extra 1/2″ or so beyond that point to make my cut along the top of the shirt. If your shirt is undersized just a tad, you can simply find the straightest portion, generally right under the sleeves and cut there, just know you will be stuffing that bad boy a bit later. But hey, a fluffy pillow is a healthy pillow, am I right?
Turn your tube inside out and run a thin line of glue along the edge in between the layers on the side you just cut (not the hemmed edge). Let this dry for a bit, maybe 20 minutes to be safe, and turn it right side out!
Your cute little pillow in the making should now look like the image above with 3 sides already closed for you! Be sure to use a pencil eraser and poke out the corners a bit so it looks professional. Then go ahead and stuff that pillow into your 3 sided tube!
All you have to do now is let the shirt do the work for you. Line up your edges and hold them somewhat close together. Run a thin line of glue along the first 1 1/2″ of the top side of one layer. You will work in small sections and basically just fold the other side gently over the first side (like you see above) and lightly press it so the glue grabs. Hold together for a few seconds before moving on to the next small section and repeat until you get to the end! Let the glue set up and you are finished. This project seriously take about 5 minutes and is such a fun way to update your space and get rid of some clothing that is bogging down your closet! Of course if you prefer to buy your fabric, then it's even easier and you can whip these out like nobodies business!
Tie Dye Pillow: Tank from WalMart Circa 2009 $5, pillow insert from Ikea $2.99
Faux Fur Pillow: Faux Chinchilla Fur Fabric from Joann's circa 2003 $7/yd, pillow insert from Joann's $4
Sequin Pillow: Tank from Old Navy 2012, pillow insert is an old pillow I just reused.
Showcase
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Caroline Queen Bed! By special reader request… but we created this plan with some modifications that make it easier to build using standard lumber and parts from your local hardware stores! If you prefer to get fancy with the legs, go for it, it will be fabulous! Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 20 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at6’
- 2 – 1×10 at 6’
- 2 – 1×10 at 8’
- 2 – 4×4 post at 6’
- 1 – Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws 1 set of bed rail brackets (like these)
- 8 – 9” post finials/feet
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 4×4 posts at 23-1/4” – Footboard Legs
- 2 – 1×10 (ripped to 9” wide) at 59” – Footboard & Headboard
- 2 – 4×4 posts at 42-3/4” – Headboard Legs
- 1 – 1×6 at 59” – Headboard
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 29” x 51” – Headboard Panel
- 2 – 1×10 (ripped to 9” wide) at 80” – Side Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 80” – Slat Supports
- 1 – 1×2 at 83” – Center Support
- 2 – 1×2 at 9” – Center Support Legs
- 20 – 1×3 at 62” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the footboard legs. Drill a hole in the center of the leg matching the depth and diameter of the bolt at the ends of the finials and feet. Attach to the top and bottom of each post. Cut the piece for the footboard. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the piece so that the front face is set back ¼” from the front face of the legs. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the headboard legs and attach the finials and feet in the same manner as in the footboard. Cut the 1×6 and 1×10 pieces for the headboard and drill pocket holes at each end. Cut the piece for the panel and drill pocket holes in the longer edges. Secure the 1×6 piece and the 1×10 piece to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the assembly so that the front face is set back ¼” from the front face of the legs. Secure the headboard assembly to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the side rails and the slat supports. Attach the slat supports to the lower edge of the side rails using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Attach the bed rail hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the center support and the support legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the support, as well as one end of each leg. Secure the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the support to the headboard and footboard as shown using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Do not use glue!
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the supports spacing them 1” apart using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I am in the process of completing the Dumont buffet for my daughter. It is almost completed. I am just missing the painting in white – 4 coats plus high gloss varnish – and the drawer handles and the door knobs which I am planning to do in October.
Plans
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer
Lumber
1 – 1×2 at 8’
1 – 1×3 at 8’
1 – 2×2 at 3’
1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
1 set of 14” drawer slides
Edge banding, optional
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 at 4” – Legs
2 – 1×2 at 11” – Base
2 – 1×2 at 14” – Base
2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20” – Bottom & Top
2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 18-1/2” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 18-1/2” – Back
2 – 1×2 at 18-1/2” – Stretchers
1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Bottom
2 – 1×3 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
2 – 1×3 at 17-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 18-1/4” – Drawer Front
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes at the bottom edges. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in both side edges as well as the bottom edge . Secure to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides as shown – locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides – using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer slides, click here.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the drawer front. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.
Design / Shopping
It’s Friday!! Woot woot… I am super excited to finish up my Family Room decor this weekend (I hope) and to share it with you guys! I have just a couple small projects left to work on and a side table to buy or DIY, and that room will be donzo! In the meantime, I am forever sourcing amazing finds from around those fabulous interwebs and today I”m sharing five of those fab finds with you!
It’s still pretty toasty around these parts, and frankly I’m not quite ready to give up on summer yet, but the moody blues and fall hues in this painting by Anna Poole totally do it for me. I love those moody colors next to some light and bright pops of neon and concrete from these amazing segmented jars from Ben Fiess. Don’t even get me started on the fabulous contradiction of this rustic meets glam console table, I mean… to die for. I’m absolutely smitten for this sunny yellow bend dining set, alas I now realize it’s no longer available (insert sad face). This always happens to me. By the time I want to pull the trigger and purchase something, it’s gone or discontinued. ugh. These black leather storage boxes are enough to make up for the loss though, since they are absolutely out of this world. I might even sell one of my dogs for these babies…especially today!
To see other weekly editions of Friday I’m In Love, follow that link…
Showcase
Showcase
A friend needed some new dressers for her children and I said I could make them. Made loft beds for the children and the dresser are made to fit under the beds.
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 2×4 at 6’
- 2 – 4×4 posts at 6’
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 3” screws
- Edge banding, optional
- 1 set of 20” drawer slides
- 1 drawer pull
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 4×4 posts at 30” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 16” – Side Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 16” – Side Panels
- 2 – 2×2 at 16” – Drawer Slide Spacers
- 2 – 2×4 at 39” – Front & Back Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 39” – Back
- 2 – 2×2 at 20” – Top Side
- 2 – 2×2 at 46” – Top Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 43” – Top Panel
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 36-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
- 2 – 1×3 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – 1×3 at 28” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 38-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs, side stretchers, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the panel as shown. Secure the panel to the stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the panel so it is located ¼” back from the outside edge of the stretcher. Secure the panel and stretcher to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the panel into the legs, and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the stretcher into the legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the spacer will be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the stretchers. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the back panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the panel as shown. Secure the panel to the back stretcher and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the side pieces. Attach the side pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel will be flush with the top face of the sides. Attach the front and back pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the panel, and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the side pieces.
Apply glue to the top of the side panels, back panel, and the legs. Position the top and secure using glue and 3” countersunk screws through the top into the legs.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the drawer front. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front. For another easy tutorial, click here.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
Can you see it? Can you see the potential in this beauty? Well, if you answered no to this question, you aren’t alone… My hubster hates it. So we are simply at odds because I see something amazing and fabulous with a retro vibe. It’s funny how differently people see things. To be fair, this baby came with some quirks that would indeed make it tough to see the potential, if you aren’t accustomed to having to see the beauty from underneath he muck. The glass shades that were barely hanging on for dear life, for example, have a decidedly countrified profile, which definitely cramps this lights style. Of course the clear packing tape, with no less than 15 years worth of grime, being used to hold said glass shades in place, might also have been a bit of a turnoff. But who am I to shy away from a little TLC. In fact, it’s those lovely little details that I LIVE for I tell you. You see when I see gunk and grime and broken pieces, I see dollar signs… and by dollar signs I suppose I actually mean a lack thereof or perhaps the virtual kind. You know… the kind you imagine gaining from an inexpensive buy and a great revamp. That my friends is precisely what I am planning on happening here. Hopefully… at least I can say that if it doesn’t work out my hubby will NEVER let me live it down. Yes, we are that couple. Ugh. The ones walking the enormous grounds of Denio’s (a.k.a. my heaven on earth), and bickering all along our merry way about the potential beauty or purpose of some item or another and where we might put said item in our home. I can tell you we pretty much never agree, but that he usually likes the outcome of whatever we come home with. Usually… although he still hates my favorite painting of Admiral So and So. You can’t win every battle I suppose. We shall see how this light fixture works out. It has such great promise and I can’t wait to get it cleaned up and installed. I have big plans for it, I tell you, big plans…
To see other articles from my adventures at Denio’s, click here. This post sponsored by Denio’s, all musings are 100% my own.
