Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Dumont Buffet. The perfect piece to use as an entertainment credenza or for storage in the bedroom or dining room!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
$75-$100
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw
- Drill
- Multi-Square and Carpenter’s Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig – if you build frequently, invest in this one.
- Nail Gun
- Router with Patterning bit – or bit set
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×6 at 6’
- One sheet of ¼” plywood
- Two sheets of ¾” plywood
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Brad Nails
- 3 sets of 14” drawer slides
- 3 Drawer Pulls
- 2 door pulls
- 2 sets of concealed hinges
- Concealed Hinge Jig
- Anti-Tip Kit
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- 3/4″ Edge Banding – optional
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 13” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/2” – Base
- 2 – 1×2 at 27-5/16” – Base
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 53” – Bottom
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20” – Sides & Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 16-1/2” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 53” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 17” – Drawer Shelves
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 20” x 53” – Back
- 6 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 12-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 6 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 16” – Drawer Boxes
- 3 – ¼” plywood at 14” x 16” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 21-1/2” – Doors
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the curve in one piece using a jigsaw. Clamp the finished leg to an uncut leg piece and cut out using the router with a patterning bit. Repeat for the remaining two legs.
Cut the pieces for the base. Cut the bevel as shown in each end of the longer pieces to match the angle in the legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Drill pocket holes in the top edge of the longer pieces as well as one long edge of the shorter pieces to attach the base to the bottom. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach the base to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edge of the sides and dividers will be flush with the front edge of the bottom. The bottom will extend by ¼” to accommodate the back.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the sides and dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edge of the top will be flush with the front edge of the sides and dividers. The top will extend by ¼” to accommodate the back.
Cut the pieces for the drawer shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The spacing of the drawer shelves is not equal so that the fronts, when attached, are equal.
Cut the piece for the back. Attach as shown (between the overhang of the top and bottom) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Adjust as necessary.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach to the drawer boxes . For an easy tutorial, click here. The top of the upper drawer front will be flush with the top of the cabinet. The bottom of the lower drawer will be flush with the bottom of the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap between the upper and middle drawer fronts, as well as the middle and lower drawer fronts.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the concealed hinges so the top of each door is flush with the top of the cabinet. The sides of the doors will be flush with the sides of the cabinets. There will be a 1/8” gap between the doors and the drawer fronts.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
hi,
love this website and would love to give this buffet a go, but unfortunately i cannot seem to see load the pictures included in this plan..
Maybe you are aware of this issue. but i would love to see them if possible
thank you
not to worry, i will get it all fixed up for you!