This piece has fabulous style with it’s easy to build demeanor, using dimensional lumber, sheet goods, and a bit of trim!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 5 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- One sheet of ¼” plywood
- One sheet of ½” plywood
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
- One half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – ½” x 2 craft boards at 3’
- 3 – ½” x 2 craft boards at 4’
- 3 – ½” x 5 craft boards at 3’
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1” brad nails
- 6 – Knobs or handles
- 3 – Sets of 18” Drawer Slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1×2 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 35-1/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 16-1/4” x 31-1/4” – Side panels
- 6 – 1×2 at 18-1/4” – Shelf Supports
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 39-3/4” – Shelves
- 3 – 1×2 at 39-3/4” – Upper Supports & Lower Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 17-3/4” – Upper Support
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 41-1/4” x 35-1/4” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 42-1/4” – Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2” – Lower Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 42-3/4” – Lower Trim
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 16-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 38-3/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 3 – ¼” plywood at 18”x 38-3/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 3 – ½” plywood at 9-3/4” x 39-1/2” – Drawer Faces
- 6 – ½” x 2 at 9-3/4” – Drawer Face Trim (craft boards or plywood)
- 6 – ½” x 2 at 36-1/2” – Drawer Face Trim (craft boards or plywood)
- 3 – ½ plywood at 4-3/4” x 34-1/2” – Center Drawer Face (craft boards or plywood)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side frames and panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter boards. The 1×3 pieces will be at the bottom of the frame. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the panels. Attach to the frames with glue and 1” pocket hole screws, making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back face of the frame.
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Attach them to the sides at the spacing indicated in the drawing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or counter sunk 1-1/4” screws. Be careful not to allow the brads or screws go all the way through the panel!
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Attach to the supports with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the pieces for the upper supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each board. Attach to the cabinet as shown in the drawing with the short piece located in the center using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top. It will overlap at the front and sides by ½”. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the upper supports, center support, and sides.
Cut the piece for the lower trim support. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the shelf above it, as well as through the sides, into the support piece.
Next, cut the pieces for the lower trim. Attach the side trim first, with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Then attach the front trim piece in the same manner.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and assemble as shown in the drawing. Cut and attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s directions setting them 1” back from the face of the cabinet. Install the drawer boxes and make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach the narrower strips to the faces with glue and 1” brad nails. The center piece will have a 1” gap between it and the narrower pieces. Attach in the same manner as the narrow pieces and drill the holes for the knobs or handles. Do not attach to the drawer boxes yet!
There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles or knobs and install them.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
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