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Design / DIY
I needed a little something between my upper windows and the top of my headboard, and I figured a typographical paper craft was just the thing. I chose a word that is fairly standard vocabulary for me (If you know me, you aren’t very likely surprised…) and created templates from 8 1/2″ x 11″ paper. The letters are cut from standard poster board stock in a metallic bronzey gold color (I think the back side was actually silver) and was purchased from my local crafty store! Easy Peasy…
I have created free printables for all of you so that you might make your own ‘word-like’ art… simply download at your leisure from the links down below!
Note: please excuse the doggy blurs and smears in the images, it appears I was interupting some very important Doggy Games to bring this you this post! Gah.
To Download Simply Click on the Letters of Choice:
A / B / C / D / E / F / G / H / I / J / K / L / M
To Download Simply Click on the Letters of Choice:
N / O / P / Q / R / S / T / U / V / W / X / Y / Z
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You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Plans
This project is quite the beauty. Strong traditional style and amazing functionality, this fine piece of work is sure to serve any need for storage and display you might have, or might even think of having!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 Full Sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 Sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
- 4 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’ or scrap at least 25” long
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’ or scrap at least 25” long
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
- Drawer Handles or knobs
- Shelf pins (for adjustable shelves)
- Edge banding for the plywood
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 17-1/4” x 35” of ¾” plywood – Console Sides
- 6 – 1×2 at 17-1/4” – Shelf Supports
- 1 – 1×2 at 26-1/2” – Back Spacer
- 3 – 17-1/4” x 26-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Console Shelves
- 3 – 1×2 at 25” – Console Frame
- 1 – 1×4 at 25” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) – Console Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 35” – Console Frame
- 1 – 28” x 35” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Back
- 1 – 18-3/4” x 28” of ¾” plywood – Console Top
- 2 – 11-1/4” x 47-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Sides
- 2 – 11-1/4” x 26-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Shelves, Fixed
- 2 – 11-1/4” x 26-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Shelves, Adjustable
- 1 – 1×6 at 25” – Hutch Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 25” – Hutch Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 47-1/4” – Hutch Frame
- 1 – 28” x 47-1/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Hutch Back
- 1 – 13-3/4” x 28” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Top
- 4 – 9-1/2” x 24” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 9-1/4” x 14-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 2-3/4” x 24” of ¾” plywood – Small Console & Hutch Drawer Boxes
- 2 – 2-3/4” x 14-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Small Console Drawer Box
- 2 – 2-3/4” x 8” of ¾” plywood – Small Hutch Drawer Box
- 3 – 16” x 24” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Box Bottoms
- 1 – 8” x 24” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Box Bottom
- 2 – 11-1/2” x 24-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Fronts
- 2 – 3-1/2” x 24-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Small Drawer Fronts
- 2 – 28” Baseboard Trim or Door Casing – Upper and Lower Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the console sides, shelf supports and back spacer. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back spacer only. Attach the supports to the sides as indicated in the drawing with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach the back spacer as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Attach to the underside of the supports with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and attach to the console with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the console frame. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the horizontal boards and assemble the frame as indicated in the drawing with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The horizontal pieces of the frame will be flush with the tops of the shelves.
Attach the frame to the console with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the console top. Apply edge banding, if desired, and attach to the console with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, back spacer, and frame.
Cut the pieces for the hutch sides. Drill pocket holes in one short end of each piece to attach to the console. Also, drill two rows of holes on each piece for the adjustable shelves and shelf pins. Attach the sides to the console with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the outside faces are flush with the sides of the console.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the fixed shelves and apply edge banding, if desired. Attach to the hutch sides as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. It will be easier to attach the bottom shelf first, then the upper shelf. The bottom shelf will be located ¾” up from the top of the console.
Cut the pieces for the adjustable shelves. They will be ¼” shorter than the fixed shelves. Apply edge banding to the front of the shelves, if desired.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the hutch back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the hutch frame. Using a jigsaw, cut the arc in the 1×6 piece as shown. Drill pocket holes in each end of the horizontal pieces and assemble the frame as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the frame to the hutch with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 10
Cut the piece for the hutch top. Apply edge banding, if desired, and attach to the hutch with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and frame.
Step 11
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower trim. Attach as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 12
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides in the console (the hutch drawer will not have drawer slides) according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Entertaining
Perhaps it’s the abundance of green, or maybe my Irish roots, but there is something about this fun-filled holiday that I absolutely adore… I feel like it brings out my inner kiddo, with pot of gold wishes and rainbow dreams…
These incredible edible treats don’t disapoint as they perfectly stimulate my senses and also happen to be a perfect example of how fabulous and amazing a combination of greens can be (just to throw a little designer thought into the mix).
1 / 2 / 3 / 4
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You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Home
Apartment Therapy has once again started their annual search for the crème de la crème of home blogs. Last year, you all made it possible for The Design Confidential to reach number 5 on this coveted list, for the Best Green Home Blogs… how fabulous is that?
It really showed me you appreciate my efforts here and made me oh so proud (and a tiny bit tearful) – *smile*!
So how about helping The Design Confidential make it into the top 10 this year too, and in more than 1 category? Do you think it can be done? Fingers crossed folks, fingers crossed. We might just break a few records here, but of course I can’t do it without your help! Without all of you my world simply doesn’t shine as bright! And with a bit of recognition from the largest site out there, I am able to provide you with more of my time and energy and more fabulous projects, design inspiration and kiddo fabulousness!
It would be so crazy cool of you and pretty easy (unlike last years efforts which were a bit cumbersome)! All you have to do is go here to sign in, and then here to vote for The Design Confidential in the Best DIY Blog category, Best Home Design Blog category, and last but not the slightest bit least, Best Family Blog category. In fact I would say the 2 most important of the 3 are the DIY and Family categories (at least to me…)!
The nomination process is open until this Friday, March 2 (midnight EST). Thanks soooo much for your great support, I really love you for it. Smooches and Hugs
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
TDC
It’s been another eventful week here! A big yahoo for that, eh? I am finally finishing up some major projects for the New Year New Style Master Bedroom Makeover and it feels fabulous to actually see it unfold! I love me some progress…
Let’s get a wrapin’ shall we?
CELEBRATE: We enjoyed a fun little upcycling St. Patrick’s Day Project with my Lucky Charm Garland.
DIY: I made a simple little art display using my DYMO machine and some of my favorite quotables from Pinterest.
BUILDERS SHOWCASE: We had the most amazing showcase for our Mason Activity Table and some fabulous mods for paper and legos to see! Thank you for sharing Peder!
PLAN INDEX: Remember that amazing showcase we had last week of the Vintage Storage Workshop Bench? Well Robohead was fabulous enough to build and share plans for the Vintage Storage Crates he built! We also added 2 other fabulous pieces that I know you all adore too…. The Kenwood Twin over Full Bunk and the Hamilton Console Table!
Yahoo, what a fabulous week it’s been. This week my boy will be back in school and I hope it will be more productive around these parts… eek!
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Plans
He brought us the most beautiful build for the Vintage Workshop Storage Bench… and now Robohead brings us the Crates! Yahoo.. Built to fit the workshop storage bench perfectly, these also seem like they have dozens of other fabulous uses too! Can't you see it now? I'm thinking perfect for toys… of course I might always be thinking that. Imagine fruit in the kitchen, and any other thing you want to contain but still see a tad!
Tools
- Safety Gear
- Tape Measure
- Nail Gun – can also use a drill if preferred.
- Table Saw – optional and can purchase materials in 1/2″ stock if need be
- Jig Saw or Router – to create handles
Lumber
**To make 3 bins, for only 1 bin purchase a shorter 1×12 and 10 linear feet of 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ trim board.
- 1 – 1×12 at 8'
- 2×4 at 8' OR 27 linear feet of 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ trim board (this latter option is obviously much more expensive, but is an option if you aren't able to rip a 2×4)
Materials
- 1″ Brad Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
For 1 Crate:
- 1 – 1×12 at 11 1/2″ Bottom
- 2 – 1×12 at 8″ Front and Back
- 8 – 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ Slats at 13″ Sides
- 4 – 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ Slats at 8″ Front/Back Trim
For 3 Crates:
- 2 – 1×12 at 11 1/2″ Bottom
- 6 – 1×12 at 8″ Front and Back
- 21 – 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ Slats at 13″ Sides
- 12 – 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ Slats at 8″ Front/Back Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your Front, Back, and Bottom to size. If you would like to carve out handles you should do this on the Front and Back pieces prior to assembling. You can use a router or a jig saw, even a hole saw will work if you are clever about it. Once your pieces are ready, glue and nail together with the bottom inset between the front and back.
Step 2
To create the slats, you can rip a 2×4 into 1/2″ wide strips that are 1 1/2″ in height and 13″ in length. If this isn't an option for you, you can also purchase trim boards in this dimension but keep in mind it will be more costly. Tack on the slats using glue and nails.
Step 3
To create the decorative trim on the front and back, you will rip a 2×4 in the same manner as the step above only your lengths will be at 8″ for this step. Again you can purchase this material if you aren't able to make it! Then simply glue to the front and back as shown.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I for one think the mods Peder made for his Mason Acivity Table are absolutely incredible and rather genius! And how adorable is his little man who will make his own mods to this piece as he plays… LOVE!
Estimated Cost
As far as total cost, I’m not too sure. Honestly, counting mistakes, cheap cuts to practice on, multiple stains to test, materials and other things it went pretty far over budget. I remember though, before I actually started, plugging in the materials list on the Home Depot web site and seeing how much more it was going to cost. I guess it all depends on the grade of wood/material you use and the area you live in as to how much you’re going to get charged.
Length of Time
As far as time to build, that’s tough to say too. The first photo I took was on November 2nd and I was done December 23rd I think. That was basically built when I had time to do it in between work and family things. Sometimes I went a week or more just walking past it in the garage.
Lumber Used
So, being as this was my first real wood project I had no clue as to what wood to use, what was available and where to get it. Home Depot and Lowes are both within 3 miles of my home so I went with what these stores had in stock. The wood is nothing fancy, mostly pine. Also, not all cuts required were available in say poplar or red/white oak and I am currently without a table saw to make such modified cuts. I used the better grade cuts for exposed, visible areas then lesser grade cuts for interior, less visible pieces. The plywood is just birch cabinet grade.
Finishing Technique
The finish I am least proud of. I knew pine can be tricky with inconsistency in staining so I sought out a pre stain. I tested out Minwax’s but eventually went with Charles Neil’s pre conditioner which worked great. I also compared Minwax to General Finishes gel stain and liked the bolder color of the former. Also, GF’s Gel Topcoat was used. Nothing fancy to apply, just paper towels for it all.
DIY
I needed a little something extra near my bed and above my nightstand… And if that something might even provide me a few subtle (or not so subtle) reminders for the day to come, then all the better!
This project was super duper simple, not permanent, and just plain fun to do!
I just recently purchased this fun little tool for myself, and at around $13, it’s been a blast making labels. Something very satisfying about it…
I chose some of my favorite quotes from Pinterest, and went to town! 5 minutes later my barcode like art project was finished!
Plans
I'm really excited to dive into this collection! I'm all over the board these days on what I'm loving, but this console table is high on the list!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 full sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 full sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
- 8 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 2 – 1×6 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 2 sets of 18” drawer slides
- 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- 2 – Hinges
- Edge banding for the plywood top
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 18-1/4” x 35-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Sides
- 1 – 18-1/4” x 68-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Bottom
- 1 – 18-1/4” x 33-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Divider
- 16 – 1×2 at 18-1/4” – Shelf & Drawer Slide Supports, Top Support
- 1 – 18-1/4” x 22-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Shelf
- 2 – 18-1/4” x 45” of ¾” plywood – Long Shelves
- 2 – 1×2 at 35-3/4” – Frame Sides
- 1 – 1×2 at 67” – Lower Frame Piece
- 1 – 1×2 at 22-3/4” – Top Support
- 1 – 1×2 at 45” – Top Support
- 1 – 1×2 at 67” – Top Support
- 1 – 1×2 at 22” – Shelf Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 31-1/4” – Shelf Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 43-1/2” – Shelf Trim
- 1 – 35-3/4” x 70” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Back
- 1 – 20-1/4” x 72” of ¾” plywood – Top
- 2 – 1×3 at 19-1/4” – Lower Trim
- 1 – 1×3 at 71-1/2” – Front Lower Trim
- 2 – 1×6 at 21” – Small Drawer
- 2 – 1×6 at 42-1/2” – Long Drawer
- 4 – 1×6 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – 18” x 21” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Small Drawer Bottom
- 1 – 18” x 42-1/2” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Long Drawer Bottom
- 1 – 7-1/2” x 21-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Small Drawer Front
- 1 – 6-1/2” x 43-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Long Drawer Front
- 1 – 21-3/4” x 21-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Door
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the bottom, the sides, and four of the 1×2 supports. Secure two of the supports to the bottom of the sides with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Secure the other two supports to the bottom with countersunk 1-1/4” screws(make sure one of the supports is centered under the area where the divider will be placed), then attach the shelf to the side supports in the same manner.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and secure to the bottom with 2” pocket screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Secure to the cabinet at the spacing indicated with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Attach two of the shelf supports to the underside of the long shelves with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws, then attach the shelves to the side supports in the same manner. Attach the smaller shelf in the same way, as well.
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Locate them as shown in the drawings. Attach them to the cabinet with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 5
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the frame sides and bottom. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Make sure the top of the lower trim piece is flush with the top of the lower shelf.
Cut the three 1×2 pieces for the upper top supports. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown in the drawing.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the shelf trim pieces. Secure to the fronts of the shelves with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, making sure the top of the trim is flush with the top of the shelves. The right side of the vertical trim will be flush with the smaller cabinet opening.
Cut the piece for the top support. Using the Kreg jig drill pocket holes in each end of the piece and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the back and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place a few nails through the back into the shelf supports, also.
Step 9
Cut the plywood piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the support pieces.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Mark and cut the arch in the front piece, if desired. Attach the side pieces first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front piece in the same manner.
Step 11
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the ¼” bottom pieces with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Do not attach the faces yet! Attach the drawer slides to the cabinet and drawer boxes according to the manufacturer’s directions locating them ¾” back from the face of the cabinet to allow for the front. Make any adjustments necessary.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill holes for handle or knob placement. Shim into place in the openings (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides). Drill temporary screws through the holes for the handles into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and fasten the fronts from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Cut the piece for the door and drill a hole for the handle or knob location. Attach the hinges to the door and shim the door in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door, also). Attach the hinges to the cabinet.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / DIY / Entertaining / Home
I was lucky enough to win the most adorable baby girl’s bedding set the other day, never mind the fact that I don’t have a baby girl…I will hang on to this fabulous prize like no other! Even more exciting since I am without a typical use for the bedding was the DIY project I managed to upcycle from the packaging! Imagine with me… While we turn packing materials into this cute little lucky charm garland…
The image below shows what they were using to protect my prize…and I thought they looked an awful lot like 4 leaf clovers…can you see it too?
I was working on another project outside, using Krylon Spray Paint in Satin Avocado, and thought I would give these charms a bit of charm too! Be forewarned, these fabulous packing materials are very lightweight, and I am fairly certain about half of them ended up in my neighbors yard in the process of making my charm bracelet garland. Oops. This is the most fabulous spray paint and it was nice to find that it worked quite well on a not so typical material like these clovers.
Once they were dry (those that didn’t blow away on this particularly windy day) I brought them inside to give them a nice coating of peridot colored glitter. After all, what’s a charm without a bit o’ shine? Am I right? I used regular Elmer’s School Glue as you can see above and several plates to demarcate the process, which was very complex of course. You will want to give your clover charms a good coat of glue on at least one side (glitter can be pricey so I chose to stick to just one side), which you can do with a paint brush as you see below, or you can go straight to the technique I used after doing several with a brush, and simply dip them directly into the glue. Much faster that way, but did result in some awfully glittery fingers.
Once you have your surface coated with glue you will want to sprinkle your glitter over the top of that surface, making sure to keep a plate, or Tupperware container underneath to capture the excess glitter as it falls. By doing it this way rather than dipping the glued surface into the glitter you ensure your glitter supply will not become corrupted and sticky, which would ruin it. Once you are finished shaking your glitter onto all of your clovers, you can bend the plate and pour the glitter back into the shaker container (Martha Stewart is so clever in this way, making the shaker tops easy to remove and replace!) You will have excess continue to fall off even after you shake them off but again since I used these plates to hold the project I can still pour that excess back into my container, yay!
I ended up using light green thread since to string the garland together since that was the only green I could find in my kitchen. I was feeling lazy since we are all a bit under the weather here at the house of Des Conf! I strung each clover through the center so that they would sit in a fashion that most looked like a clover.
Once I had them strung I attempted to space them out a bit so they were recognizable and more pleasing to look at.
I love that they are a little bit army and a little bit glitter! Pretty much sums up my personality in that interesting balance of loving things masculine with clean lines, but always loving a bit of glitter and shine!
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Plans
- 4 – 2×6 at 8′
- 3 – 2×6 at 6′
- 2 – 2×4 at 8′
- 2 – 2×3 at 8′
- 4 – 2×2 at 8′
- 26 – 1×4 at 8′
- 2 – 1×3 at 8′
- 1- 7/8″ Round Dowel at 2′
- 4 – 2×6 at 38 1/4″ Lower Legs
- 4 – 2×6 at 30 1/4″ Upper Legs
- 4 – 2×6 at 76″ Bed Rails
- 2 – 2×6 at 33 1/2″ Head/Foot Bottom Board
- 2 – 2×6 at 48 1/2″ Head/Foot Bottom Board
- 2 – 2×4 at 33 1/2″ Head/Foot Top Board
- 2 – 2×4 at 48 1/2″ Head/Foot Top Board
- 2 – 2×3 at 44 1/2″ Upper and Lower Head/Foot Top
- 2 – 2×3 at 59 1/2″ Upper and Lower Head/Foot Top
- 4 – 2×2 at 76″ Bed Cleats
- 4 – 1×4 at 18 1/2″ Short/Long Rail Guard Legs
- 2 – 1×4 at 69″ Long Rail Rails
- 2 – 1×4 at 51″ Short Rail Rails
- 2 – 1×4 at 65 5/8″” Ladder Rails
- 6 – 1×4 at 16″ Ladder Rungs
- 26 – 1×4 at 13 1/4″ Upper Head/Foot Slats
- 26 – 1×4 at 21 1/4″ Lower Head/Foot Slats
- 11 – 1×4 at 39″ Bed Slats
- 11 – 1×4 at 54″ Bed Slats
- 26 – 1×3 at 6″ Rail Bars
- 4 – 7/8″ Round Dowel at 5″ – Dowels
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Frame out the Head and Foot Boards: You will need 2 of each pictured here. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to secure.
Secure the Slats for one side of Each Head/Foot Board: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. This first round of slats will sit flush with the Legs and Rails on one side of the Head/Foot Boards, leaving space on the other side for the remaining slats. You will ultimately end up with 2 rows of slats here that stagger.
Tack on the Top Boards: Use 2″ Wood Screws and Glue to secure the top boards to each Head/Foot Board for both the upper and lower units. Be sure to countersink these screws.
Fasten the Remaining Slats in Place: These will stagger in comparison to the slats you have already fastened in place and to secure you will use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.
Create the Bed Rails and Then Secure: The Bed Rails will be 2×6’s with 2×2 cleats fastened along the bottom edges. Secure in place using 2″ wood screws and glue, and be sure both pieces sit flush on the bottom edge. To fasten the Bed Rails to the Head/Foot Boards use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to secure. The bottom edge of the Rails will sit 8″ up from the bottom of the legs and will sit flush with the bottom boards on the Head/Foot boards.
Tack down your Slats: Use 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue to fasten the supporting slats to the cleats. This will act as a box spring of sorts for your mattresses, so you won’t be needing box springs for this project.
Add the Long Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Head/Foot Board. Use your 2″ wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Head/Foot Boards.
Add the Short Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Foot Board. Use your 2″ wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Foot Board.
Stack the Units: To do this you will need to bore a hole in the Top of the Bottom Unit Legs and in the Bottom of the Top Unit Legs that is 1″ in diameter and 2 1/2″ deep. Set your dowels into the bottom unit hole, then lift (carefully) the Top unit on top of the bottom unit and set onto the dowels that are sticking out. This is how you keep them stacked, but note that you can, at any time, un-stack them and use them as 2 individual beds.
Build the Ladder: Note that the outer corners of the ladder are angled for safety. You can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the Ladder to the Bunk in the same manner by using your Kreg Jig to secure the ladder to both the Top and Bottom Unit Rails. You can also use your 2″ wood screws and glue to secure from the inside of the Rails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
Once again I have little to show you in the way of my nearly complete Master Bedroom Makeover… but the steps along the way are a bit slow and tedious so they are going accordingly!
Before I jump right in to the Weekly Wrap Up, I will give you all a couple of hints on the projects to come:
1. There is painting happening
2. Glue is definitely to be found abound
3. Some felt perhaps, and of course wood…. Can you guess? ha
Alright, let’s get down to business shall we?
CELEBRATE: We celebrated the heart shaped holiday here at TDC with 6 fabulous Valentine’s Day Printables!
DIY: We learned how to Install or Replace a Cooktop Range and how to create our own artful neon lighting installation!
PLAN INDEX: We added 3 amazing new projcts to our Plan Index: the Cortona Bed in Queen, The Hamilton Large Kitchen Table (slash island), and a remake of our beloved Printmaker’s Desk!
A very good week eh? I know I normally only post once on sundays but I will be back in just a bit with another Plan Index Post! Yahoo.
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
