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Plans
A fabulous addition to the other pieces in the Reef Collection, this table is budget friendly and really easy to build!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 2 – 1×4 at 6’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×4 at 20” – Frame
- 2 – 1×4 at 20-1/2” – Frame
- 4 – 2×4 at 19-1/4” – Legs
- 6 – 1×4 at 23-1/2”” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Make sure the pocket holes are staggered so that the pocket screws to assemble the frame will not conflict with the pocket screws connecting to the legs (see drawings).Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach to the frame 1” in from the side face of the legs with 2” pocket hole screws through the frame into the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the top. Space the boards 1” apart. Attach to the frame and legs with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the frame and legs.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This easy to build and stylish table is the perfect companion to the sofa and chair in this collection!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×4 at 6’
- 5 – 1×4 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×4 at 44-1/2” – Frame
- 2 – 1×4 at 20-1/2” – Frame
- 1 – 1×4 at 19” – Frame Support
- 4 – 2×4 at 15-3/4” – Legs
- 6 – 1×4 at 48” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the frame and support. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Make sure the pocket holes are staggered so that the pocket screws to assemble the frame will not conflict with the pocket screws connecting to the legs (see drawings).Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach to the frame 1” in from the side face of the legs with 2” pocket hole screws through the frame into the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the top. Space the boards 1/2” apart. Attach to the frame and legs with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the frame and legs.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
We have plans for the chair, and now the sofa.. I am excited to roll out this new outdoor collection with summer on the mind these days! Easy to build, and fabulous to look at, this collection promises to be a big hit with all of you DIY lovers out there!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 5 – 2×4 at 8’
- 6 – 1×4 at 8’
- 4 – 2×4 at 24-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 28-1/2” – Side Frames
- 2 – 2×4 at 31-1/2” – Top
- 1 – 2×4 at 70” – Top
- 2 – 2×4 at 63” – Seat Support
- 1 – 2×4 at 63” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
- 1 – 2×4 at 6” – Center Leg
- 9 – 1×4 at 18-3/4” – Seat Slats
- 8 – 1×4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
- 9 – 1×4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 28-1/2” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. miters in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces. (There will be a left and right) Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be the 2×4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I love this table, especially the finish! I used Apulis' idea and mitered the corners on the table top. The legs are constructed with 2x4s. The center panels are striped and screwed to the tabletop frame from underneath.
Estimated Cost
I think I spent around $50 total!!
Finishing Technique
I used Rust-Oleum's Ultimate Wood Stain in Kona for the legs and frame. The panels are stained with Minwax Special Walnut, and Rust-Oleum's Ultimate Wood Stain in Paprika and Sunbleached. I finished it off withRust-Oleum's Ultimate Polyurethane in Satin.
Plans
This week is all about the great outdoors, and some fabulous furniture collections to enjoy it with! Today the chair, and the rest of this collection to follow!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 4 – 2×4 at 8’
- 4 – 1×4 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×4 at 24-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 28-1/2” – Side Frames
- 2 – 2×4 at 31-1/2” – Top
- 1 – 2×4 at 37” – Top
- 2 – 2×4 at 30” – Seat Support
- 1 – 2×4 at 30” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
- 4 – 1×4 at 18-3/4” – Seat Slats
- 8 – 1×4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
- 4 – 1×4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 28-1/2” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. miters in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces. (There will be a left and right) Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be the 2×4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
As I was drawing the PB Inspired Rebecca Trunk, I already had plans to build it! I love the simplicity and especially the finish! This was a fun and easy build!!
Finishing Technique
The trunk cost me about $100 once I bought the lumber, casing, and trim. I used the copper hanging tape rather than galvanized and used antique bronze upholstery tacks to fasten it in place. I used Minwax Walnut stain first then Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain in Sunbleached. I finished it off with Rust-Oleum's Spar Varnish in Satin (an incredible product!).
Design
From Boho Chic to Vintage Mod, all three of these places is entirely different, yet all were so bold as to pair teal with purple and rock it like there’s no tomorrow. I never thought I would be saying these words, but purple and green never looked so good…at least not since 1996 that is. Kind of loving it…
Plans
You will be excited to know that this week is all about Outdoor Furniture! Yahoo! We covered the bench seating portion yesterday, and now for the Corner piece… The dimensions given are based on seat cushions measuring 21” x 21” x 4”.
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 3 – 2×4 at 8’
- 4 – 1×4 at 8’
- 4 – 2×4 at 19-1/2” with 15 deg. angle cut at bottom – Back Leg Top
- 5 – 2×4 at 13-1/4” – Back Leg Bottom & Front Legs
- 2 – 1×4 at 18” – Back Aprons, Back Slats, & Seat Back
- 1 – 1×4 at 17-1/2” – Front Apron
- 1 – 1×4 at 19-1/2” – Front Apron
- 1 – 1×4 at 22-3/4” –Center Support
- 1 – 1×4 at 21” – Seat Side
- 5 – 1×4 at 17-1/2” – Seat Slats
- 2 – 2×4 at 36” – Back Connector
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle for the back leg top at 15 degrees. If you have a miter saw, trim a little off of the top of the angle to allow for the seat (see drawing). Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top of the back leg, as well as at the angle. Attach to the bottom leg sections with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Attach to the back legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws with the aprons set back ¼” from the outer face of the legs.
Connect the legs to form a 90 deg. angle as shown in the drawing using 1” corner brackets – two in the front and two in the back.
Cut the pieces for the side aprons and the center support. Drill pocket holes at each end. The side apron for the left side of the unit (facing the unit) is longer than the apron for the right side of the unit. Attach the aprons using glue and 2” pocket hole screws with the aprons set back ¼” from the faces of the legs. Attach the connector in the center as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back connectors. The angles are very tricky!! These pieces are cut very long in order to have enough material to play with the angles. A 15 deg. angle will need to be cut on the 1-1/2” edge (see drawing) while a 42 deg. angle will need to be cut on the 3-1/2” face. Once the angles are right, cut the pieces square at the opposite ends and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the legs into the top. Put a little glue in the angle joint and use a brad nailer to fasten together.
Cut the pieces for the back slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the back frame at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat back. Attach to the back apron and seat support with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the seat side and slats. Drill pocket holes in each end of the slats as well as one pocket hole in the side piece where it will meet the seat back piece on the left side (if facing the unit) – the slats will screw into the back piece on the right side. Assemble with the spacing as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Apply glue to the top of the side aprons and legs, then lay the seat assembly on top. Secure with 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat sides and slats into the aprons. Attach to the back seat piece with the single pocket hole drilled in the seat side.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Easily customizable to cushions of your choice… Just adjust the length or depth dimensions! The dimensions given are based on seat cushions measuring 21” x 21” x 4”. Corner unit plans can be found here: Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Customizable Outdoor Corner Unit
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 3 – 2×4 at 8’
- 7 – 1×4 at 8’
- 3 – 2×4 at 19-1/2” with 15 deg. angle cut at bottom – Back Leg Top
- 6 – 2×4 at 13-1/4” – Back Leg Bottom & Front Legs
- 1 – 2×4 at 42” – Back Leg Connector
- 2 – 1×4 at 15-3/4” – Front Aprons
- 8 – 1×4 at 18-3/4” – Back Aprons, Back Slats, & Seat Back
- 3 – 1×4 at 19-3/8” – Side Aprons & Center Support
- 2 – 1×4 at 22-3/4” – Seat Supports
- 2 – 1×4 at 21” – Seat Sides
- 5 – 1×4 at 35” – Seat Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle for the back leg top at 15 degrees. If you have a miter saw, trim a little off of the top of the angle to allow for the seat (see drawing). Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top of the back leg, as well as at the angle. Attach to the bottom leg sections with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front and back aprons. Note that the front legs are placed with the widest part of the 2×4 facing out, thus making the aprons shorter (15-3/4”), where the back legs are placed with the narrower part of the 2×4 facing out (18-3/4” aprons). Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Attach to the front and back legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws with the aprons set back ¼” from the outer face of the legs.
Cut the piece for the back leg connector and attach with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side aprons, center support, and seat support. Drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. The side aprons will be placed ¼” back from the outer face of the legs and will be attached using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The center support will be centered on the center front and back legs and attached using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The seat supports will be centered on the front and back aprons, and attached using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the back frame at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat back. Attach to the back apron and seat support with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the seat sides and slats. Drill pocket holes in each end of the slats as well as one pocket hole in the side piece where it will meet the seat back piece. Assemble with the spacing as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Apply glue to the top of the side aprons, and the front aprons and legs, then lay the seat assembly on top. Secure with 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat sides and slats into the aprons. Attach to the back seat piece with the single pocket hole drilled in the seat side.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
From hair to chairs and every accessory in between the dip dyed trend has made a big splash. As it would seem this trend is here to stay for quite some time, and I for one couldn't be happier… In fact I pretty much adore everything about it! What do you think… love it or leave it?
Showcase
I built this raised planter table for my wife on Mother's Day and she loves it.
Plans
We have plans for the queen size, and now for the king!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 7 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 2×4 at 8’
- 8 – 1×3 at 6’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 4 – Furniture legs at least 8” tall
- Nailhead upholstery trim and nails (go here)
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 51-1/2” – Headboard Sides
- 4 – 2×2 at 78”” – Headboard & Footboard
- 1 – 2×2 at 81” – Headboard
- 2 – 2×4 at 80-1/2” – Side Rail Bottoms
- 2 – 2×2 at 6” – Side Rail Ends
- 2 – 2×2 at 82” – Side Rail Tops
- 8 – 1×3 at 78” – Slats
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 31-7/8” x 77-7/8” – Headboard Panel
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/8” x 80-3/8” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/8” x 77-7/8” – Foot Panel
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the headboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end of each of the pieces for the sides, and in both ends of the lower piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the lower rails. Drill two pocket holes in each end of these boards. Attach to the headboard as shown using the outer pocket hole only but DO NOT use glue! You may want to disassemble it someday!
Step 3
Cut the piece for the lower headboard rail. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown with glue (it’s ok on this piece!) and 2” pocket hole screws, also with a screw through the lower rail into this piece.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the side rail ends. Assemble as shown in the drawing with the pocket holes facing to the inside. Use glue and ONE pocket hole screw.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the top of the side rail. Drill pocket holes in one end of each piece. Assemble as shown with the pocket holes facing down and the screws secured into the headboard. DO NOT use glue at this joint but you can use glue to attach this piece at the end.
Cut the pieces for the footboard. Drill two pocket holes in each end of the piece that will be used for the top only. Secure to the side rail end pieces but DO NOT use glue. Secure the lower piece with a screw through the remaining pocket hole in the lower side rail and again, DO NOT use glue!
Attach the feet or legs.
Step 7
**The bed will need to be stained or painted before inserting the slats or upholstery panels.**
Cut the pieces for the slats and attach to the lower rail with countersunk 1-1/2” screws.
Step 8
Cut the panels for the headboard, footboard, and side rails. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back side to attach to the frames. They will be upholstered as follows:
Cover the front each panel with a thin piece of foam, then cover the front with upholstery batting. Lay the fabric over the top and secure at the edge of each panel with the upholstery nail strips. Trim the fabric leaving at least 1-1/2” of fabric around the edges of the panels (this will be hidden when the panels are inserted into the frames and secured.). Insert the panels into each of the openings and attach with 2” pocket hole screws.
When disassembling the bed, the panels will not have to be removed. For the footboard, only remove the screws attaching this piece to the side rails. For the side rails, only remove the screws attaching the panels and sides to the headboard. Nothing will have to be removed for the headboard.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
