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Showcase
Here is the pic of the reef chair, pre-stain. The chair is phenomenally designed and the plans are easy to follow.
Estimated Cost
The total cost for me was around $40
Length of Time
This took one evening to complete after work. So, maybe 4 hours or so, and this does not include sanding and staining.
Finishing Technique
As for the cushion, our dimensions measured out to be 30″ wide and 20.5″ deep. We used 4″ foam piece for our cushion and it is extremely comfy.
Plans
Another reader project request to set the blogging DIY world on fire! Frankly I agree… this has been one of my favorite accent pieces of furniture for longer than I can recall! This beauty can be upholstered from stem to stern or simply for the seat portion. For a tutorial on uholstering this piece, click here and visit Designs by Studio C for the instructions!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- Eighth sheet of ¾” plywood
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- Scrap of 2×2 at least 17-1/4” long
Materials
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Countersink bit for drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×2 at 27-3/16” – Base Leg
- 4 – 1×2 at 12-13/16” – Upper Leg
- 4 – 1×2 at 12-7/8” – Lower Leg
- 1 – 2×2 at 17-1/4” – Stretcher
- 2 – 1×2 ay 17-1/4″ – Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 20-1/2” – Seat
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the base legs. Cut the angle as shown.
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower legs. Cut the angles as shown. Assemble with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws leaving a 1-1/2” gap in the center to make the “X”. Mark the 12-13/16” end as the top. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes to attach the seat.
Layer the pieces together as shown and secure with glue and a couple of countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Locate the screws so that the pocket hole screws for the stretcher won’t interfere.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the 2×2 stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure to the center of each leg with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the 1×2 stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Drill countersunk holes also to attach the leg assembly to the seat.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the legs with 1-1/4” screws through the countersunk holes in the upper stretchers.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Entertaining / Home
I am excited to announce that I have partnered with Apartment Guide to serve as an Official Apartment Guide Decor Blogger! As an official blogger, I will be sharing articles and ideas for exploring your space, city and style.
Today’s Topic is all about how to make your house guests comfortable and places to explore with your visitors that make their stay both enjoyable and memorable!
Make it Work….for your guests!
The most enjoyable aspect of staying at a hotel (for me) is knowing that regardless of how I’m feeling at any given moment, my needs and wants can be met without feeling as though I’m putting anyone out. There is no reason why your house guests should feel any differently and in fact this is the number one point of focus you should have when attempting to make your guest’s stay enjoyable…not to worry this is easier to do than you might think.
Basic Needs:
During an overnight stay a guest will require certain things, and anything beyond those things is merely icing on the cake. Focus first on the basics so they are sure to be comfortable, then if you like, pull out the red carpet and go crazy…just don’t forget these basics or your red carpet will be a major flop.
Sleep: This is the number one task your guests will do at your home so make this portion as flexible for as many people as possible. You should always consider the sleeping arrangements for maximum rest and minimum disturbance regardless of sleeping preferences.
- Bedding and Climate Control – Since you won’t be able to please everyone with ease on this front, having convertible options for bed coverings is crucial. That way those who are cold can cover up and snuggle in and those who get warm at night can remove coverings with ease. This might mean a sheet, blanket, down comforter, and bed spread all within arms reach while your guests are slumbering. I promise your guests will care more for their temperature than whether or not these items are all color coordinated and expensive, so don’t stress…just layer. Be sure to have at least 2 pillows per person for the greatest flexibility and comfort. Guests can use them both or remove one if preferred.
- Lighting – Be sure it’s easy for your guests to read in bed if they like, or dig through their luggage to find what they need. This means you need to have easy access to lighting for them and this can easily be accomplished with table lamps or overhead lighting depending on the layout of your space. Also be sure that any windows can be adequately covered for maximum darkness if your guests are sensitive to that morning sun. A grumpy guest who didn’t sleep well, doesn’t work out the best for anyone.
- Leisure – Consider that many peole enjoy a little bedtime tv watching before they hit the sack and allow them this option if you can.
For more tips on getting to know your town: Best Golf Courses in Raleigh
Eating: Aside from sleeping and bathing this is perhaps the other major task a guest may do at your home. Make sure you provide adequate and quick options for even the pickiest of eaters. Before your guests head to bed, be sure to show them their eating and drinking options for the morning, so they can feel comfortable getting up before you, should they still be functioning on a different time zone.
- Continental Breakfast – one of the best aspects of a hotel stay (for many) is the dining options and snack choices available throughout the day. You can accomplish the same thing in your home by purchasing just a few basics. Water, juice and milk will satisfy most daytime and morning needs for most people of the non-adult variety. Coffee in the morning is a must for 90% of your potential guests and you can create a special experience for them by simply offering some special additives like flavored creamers. Everyone loves a personalized experience. Before you head to bed yourself, be sure to set the timer on your coffee pot for a fairly early hour and lay out cups and creamers where they are easy to access. Don’t make your guests hunt and gather to find what they need. Mini muffins or breakfast pastries in a variety of flavors, bagels and cream cheese, and mini cereal boxes are a fabulous way to provide some eating basics that don’t require a full out cooking experience. This will fill empty tummies regardless of the hour they wake.
- Snacks and Convertible Lunches – Have plenty of single serving snacks available for midday snacks and easy prep for day trips. Lunch meat, bread, and veg can essentially do the trick with some easy snack packs like chips, pretzels, string cheese or cookies to go along with those items. Easy peasy…
- Dine for dinner – dining out or food prep in is a bit more tricky but should definitely be something a bit more in depth for your dinner meal. Everyone will likely be awake and gathered for this particular meal and so this is your chance to make it special…
For more tips on getting to know your town: Unique Bars and Lounges in Santa Fe
Bathing: A crucial ingredient to a decent stay, if I do say so myself!
- Be sure to provide plenty of towels of every variety for your guest’s bathing needs. Some people like two towels while others like one smaller one… be sure to have several of each already out in plain sight for them. Have wash cloths and hand towels near sinks and a variety of bathing products for them as well… You can purchase single serving bathing products at almost every grocery store so go crazy and get them everything they may have forgotten in addition to shampoo and conditioner (toothpaste, mouthwash, shaving cream, lotion etc.). It can be mini bottle heaven friends… and will give them a little take home treat too!
For more tips on getting to know your town: Best Coffee Cities in the US
Get Outdoors and Have Some Fun:
Leisure: Outside of the stay in your place, your guests may want to enjoy a bit of sightseeing and get to know your town. The best way to do this is to get to know what your town and it’s surrounding areas are known for. In northern California we are known for many things, both historical and outdoorsy, but mainly we are a commuter town meaning we are a couple of hours drive from dozens of spectacular places.
- Locally – we have several ‘old towns’ within a 20 mile radius of here, including the very well know historic Old Sacramento on the River Delta. A short days adventure walking the wooden planked sidewalks and exploring the Railroad Museum are always fun for the family and our friends. Old Folsom is another short day adventure walking through the shops and eating at the local restaurants alongside the American River. The network of rivers and lakes in this area, afford folks outdoor adentures till their hearts are content. From water sports and scenic rides to hiking or relaxation, there is a bit of something for everyone here.
- All in a days work – If you draw a radius around Sacramento covering about 90 miles you will be amazed at the number of adventures within your grasp. We are a short hour and half drive from the amazing city of San Francisco, Marin County with Stinson Beach and Muir Woods for the outdoorsy types, Lake Tahoe for those who might enjoy some time at the lake in the summer or a bit of gambling and winter sports when the temperatures drop, the Gold Country towns of Coloma, Sutter Creek, and Murphy’s with their spectacular adventures in antiques, caves to explore and gold panning, and the Wine Country… well who can forget that. With Napa being the most well known followed by Sonoma, Amador and El Dorado County, this area is bookended by amazing wine varieties and fabulous winery tours.
For more tips on getting to know your town: Best Cities for Families
Special Announcement: Apartment Guide “Your Picks. Your Place.” Sweepstakes
Is your place in need of a style update? Apartment Guide has partnered with TV host and design expert Kim Myles for the second annual Apartment Guide “Your Picks. Your Place.” Sweepstakes. From now until August 14, visit YourPicksYourPlace.com to vote once per day for your preferred room design showcasing furniture and home décor items selected by featured bloggers. The site will feature four different room designs every two weeks. By voting, you’ll be entered for a chance to win a $10,000 grand prize or one of eight $250 weekly prizes to go towards your own selections for your home. While you’re on the site, you can find design and décor tips from Kim Myles, Apartment Guide and featured bloggers to help you design a room that’s uniquely you.
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Sweepstakes ends @ 9:00 PM on 8/14/12, subject to Entry Periods outlined in Official Rules. Must be a US legal resident of the 50 US or DC and 18 years of age or older. Sweepstakes subject to full Official Rules available at www.yourpicksyourplace.com. Void where prohibited.
For more Tips & Tricks visit Apartment Guide:
Disclosure: Apartment Guide and owner Consumer Source, Inc. have partnered with bloggers like me as Official Apartment Guide Bloggers. As part of this program, I have received compensation. They have not told me what to purchase or what to say about the products used, and believe that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. Consumer Source’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.
Plans
A fabulous way to get your shoes and other small sundry items organized, the Sarah Shoe Storage piece is both stylish and practical! This baby can also be turned upside down and stacked for even more organizational goodness!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 scrap of 1×2 at least 25”
- 2 scraps of 1×4 at least 7-1/2”
- Quarter sheet of 1/4″ plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 39” – Sides
- 5– ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 25” – Shelves, Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 33-1/4” – Dividers
- 1 – 1/4″ plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 26-1/2″ x 39″ – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 25” – Trim
- 2 – 1×4 at 7-1/2” – Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, apply to the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shelves. Set two of the shelves aside for the cubbies and assemble the remaining two shelves with the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown in the drawing.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the trim. Cut a decorative curve in the 1×4 pieces and attach to the 1×2 as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the 1×2 into the trim pieces.
Attach the trim under the bottom piece on the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the 1×2 into the bottom.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the notches in the remaining shelves as shown. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notches as shown. Slide onto the shelves and attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
We did a couple things differently. Like the support square that goes
around the X's, we layed them on top rather than around. Then, we
completely forgot that it'd raise the height of the table but it's ok
with me! I wanted to use 4×4's but we could find untreated ones.
Studio
Calling all homeowners! Could you use $20,000 for a renovation project in your house? Well, I have some good news. I’ve partnered with HouseLogic to offer you a chance to win a home renovation to “Boost Your Roost”! That’s right…$20,000, can you believe it?
The HouseLogic Boost Your Roost contest starts today and we’re looking for people that have a great idea for a home improvement project that will help you get the most enjoyment out of your home. Whether it’s sprucing up your kitchen or building a patio for those summer cookouts, we want take your dreams and turn them into reality. Yahoo, right?
How to Enter:
To enter this amazing contest, send me an email to rayanturner (at) gmail (dot) com, with a description of a room or area of your home that you could renovate with a budget of $20,000. Remember to include why this home improvement is so important to you, and how it will bring more enjoyment to you, your family, and even your friends perhaps.
- Type Boost Your Roost in the subject line of your email to me, and include a description of 300 words or less with at least one photo (5 photos max) and feel free to include drawings or videos if you like!
I will be choosing the best submission from the lot, which will then be included as one of six finalists to be voted on by the general public to see who will win the $20,000 renovation. Woo hoo…
So put on your thinking cap, get your fingers typing, and your camera snapping, and let me know how you plan to “boost your roost!”. For more details visit houselogic.com/boostyourroost
Entries will be accepted now through July 16 at 11:59pm (CDT), and you must be a homeowner living within the continental U.S. More details can be found at houselogic.com/boostyourroost.
Plans
The perfect way to keep cool this summer, this Chesapeake Ice Chest will work beautifully with the other pieces in the collection or on it’s own! **Built to accommodate a 10.5 gal. oval galvanized tub measuring 26-3/4” long, 15” wide, 9” high – available at Tractor Supply Company
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 9 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- One quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- 4 – 2×2 at 21-1/4” – Side Panel Legs
- 4 – 1×3 at 15” – Side Panels
- 28 – 1×3 at 15-1/4” – Side, Front & Back Slats
- 4 – 1×3 at 26-1/2” – Front & Back Panels
- 2 – 1×2 at 26-1/2” – Bottom Supports
- 3 – 1×2 at 15” – Bottom Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 28” – Bottom
- 2 – 1×3 at 29-1/2” – Top Frame
- 11 – 1×3 at 13” – Top Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the legs and pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side panel pieces as well as the slats. Assemble at the spacing shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back of the slats and side panel pieces should be flush with the outsideface of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the front and back panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces and assemble at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach to the side panels using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the inner support only to make assembly easier. Attach the longer supports as well as the two pieces without pocket holes to the front, back, and side panels using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach the center support at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the supports should be flush with the bottom frames of the front, back, and sides.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the bottom. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches at each corner. Attach to the supports with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions and attach the top to the bench.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Very happy with the result, thanks you for the plans.
Estimated Cost
This should've cost only $20-$30 because I already had the 4″x4″, but I lost track. $30 for screws, wood filler, and stain.
Length of Time
I don't really know how long it took to do, because I've been so busy with work, that I just worked on it when I had time.
Lumber Used
I stumbled on the 2 different tones on accident. The middle planks are cedar and the rest of the table is pine.
Finishing Technique
Using the same stain on the 2 different woods gave me a nice contrast.
Plans
A fabulous reader request from our Community Pages and a fabulous piece in general. The Presley Media Console is sure to be a fabulous item to add to your home!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Router
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 5 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 5 – 2×2 at 8’
- Half sheet of ¼” lauan, hardboard, or plywood
- 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Edge banding for plywood
- 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
- Door slide hardware (Rockler part no. 38905)
- 3 Recessed Drawer Pulls
- Glass for doors
- Rabbeting bit for router
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 35” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 17” – Side Panels
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 17” – Side Panels
- 5 – 1×2 at 17” – Shelf & Bottom Supports
- 2 – 1×2 at 61-1/2” – Shelf Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 64-1/2” – Lower Shelf
- 4 – 2×2 at 61-1/2” – Top & Bottom Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 61-1/2” – Top & Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 61-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 17” – Dividers
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 20” – Shelves
- 6 – 1×4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 6 – 1×4 at 19” – Drawer Boxes
- 3 – ¼” lauan or hardboard at 16” x 19” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 19-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 19-3/4” – Drawer Front
- 4 – 1×2 at 15-3/4” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 17-1/2” – Door Frames
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the bevel as indicated.
Step 2
Cut the 2×2 pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg Jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the top and bottom of the panels with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back of the plywood panels should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.
Attach the side assemblies to the legs as shown with glue and pocket hole screws. Use 2” pocket hole screws to attach the 2×2 frame pieces to the legs and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the plywood panels into the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the supports should be flush with the inside faces of the legs.
Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notches in each corner. Attach to the supports with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the shelf into the supports.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the console bottom frame and supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the supports.
Cut a 1/8” rabbet in the top of the front frame piece for the door slide hardware. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the plywood piece for the console bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the 2×2 frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom supports to the assembly as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach to the legs as shown with 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs and console bottom with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back side should be flush with the inside face of the legs as shown.
Cut the pieces for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end.
Cut a 1/8” rabbet in the bottom of the front frame piece for the door slide hardware. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the plywood piece for the top. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the 2×2 frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach to the legs as shown with 2” pocket hole screws. Use 1-1/4” pocket hole screws to attach the back to the top frame.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Attach to the cabinet as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides and dividers into the shelves.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the drawer boxes with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The drawer boxes will be located ¾” back from the front edge of the dividers.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Use a brad nailer to secure the fronts in place. Open the drawer and insert screws through the inside of the drawer box into the front. See manufacturer’s instructions for recessed handle installation.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Locate the pocket holes so the router bit will not hit the screws!
Rout a 3/8” deep rabbet in the back of the frame for the glass. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Chesapeake 38 inch Banquette
The slats aren't permanently attached in this pic, so they are a little uneven. I glued them today and will nail them tomorrow.
Showcase
Lumber Used
Just built this out of furring wood to test out this Kreg Jig. I bought the Pro Kit. I was pretty impressed with how this method allows you to essentially “clamp” the boards with screws. This meant no waiting for glue to dry at all so from start to finish this took me only about 5 hours! Wasn't sure how it was going to turn out so I used furring wood (cost total was about $20) in case it bombed. Its so clean my wife wants to keep it! LOL. I might have to throw a coat of paint on it seeing as how it's knotty pine and put it somewhere for her.
In terms of directions, I would mention that you can't get it in the frame once it's built out. I had to actually remove one of the Side Boards to get it in and then replace that single board once it was in there. People should hold off on that side board until the end to allow clearance.
Anyway, awesome piece of furniture! Considering buying some Eucalyptus or Cedar:) Thanks so much for the plans!
Plans
We covered the corner unit yesterday, and today… the armless single unit! Outdoor heaven here we come! To see other pieces in the Chesapeake Collection, browse to the Plan Index page and choose Chesapeake Collection from the sorting menu!
Lumber
- 1 – 4×4 at 8’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 4 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 4×4 (ripped to 2-1/2” x 2-1/2”) at 33” – Side & Back Legs
- 2 – 4×4 (ripped to 2-1/2” x 2-1/2”) at 13” – Front Leg
- 6 – 1×3 at 29” – Aprons & Back Slats
- 2 – 1×3 at 22-1/2” – Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4”) at 22-1/2” – Seat Supports
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4”) at 26” – Seat Supports
- 2 – 1×2 at 29” – Seat Slats
- 7 – 1×3 at 32-1/2” – Seat Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the back legs. Rip them on a table saw to 2-1/2” x 2-1/2. Draw the angle on each board and cut with a jigsaw. Sand the angle.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the aprons and the front legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end on the aprons. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. Attach to the aprons at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the shorter pieces to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. (Countersunk screws can also be used.)
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the back slats. Drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the legs flush with the angle using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. There will be a 1” space between each board.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Attach the 1×2 slats using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the slats into the center supports. Use a few brad nails through the front of the aprons into the side of the slats.
Set the first wider slat ½” from the 1×2 slat. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the slat into all supports. The next slat (and all remaining slats) will be spaced ¾” apart.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
