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Plans
I’m pretty sure LOVE doesn’t adequately describe my feelings about this Free DIY Furniture Plan to Build a RH Baby & Child Inspired Rowley Desk! Adore is perhaps a better description…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’
- 1 – 1×8 at 8’
- 1 – 1×8 at 4’
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2 – 2×3 at 6’
- 1 – 2×3 at 4’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1” screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 2” screws
- Edge banding for plywood
- 2 – 24” Continuous hinges
- 2 –Lid stops
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 22” – Feet
- 4 – 2×2 at ½” – Feet
- 2 – 2×3 at 29-5/8” – Legs
- 2 – 2×3 at 30-5/8” – Legs
- 1 – 1×4 at 40-1/2” – Back Stretcher
- 2 – 1×4 at 3-1/2” (cut at 45 deg angle) – Back Stretcher Brackets
- 2 – 2×2 at 11” – Side Supports
- 1 – 2×3 at 40-1/2” – Front Support
- 3 – 1×6 at 25” – Compartment Sides & Divider
- 1 – 1×4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 45” – Compartment Front
- 1 – 1×6 at 45” – Compartment Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/8” x 24-3/4” – Compartment Bottoms
- 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 47-1/2” – Back Trim
- 1 – 1×8 at 44-1/2” – Lower Trim
- 1 – 1×4 at 47-1/2” – Top Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 23-11/16” x 23-11/16” – Doors
- 2 – 1×2 at 23-11/16” – Door Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the feet. Attach the ½” pieces as shown using glue and 1” countersunk screws.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in the top of each piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom of each leg. Keep in mind that there will be two right legs and two left legs. The shorter legs will be located 5” from the front edge of the foot and the longer legs will be located 1” from the back of the feet. Attach to the feet as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back stretcher and the back brackets. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher. The dimension shown on the drawing is from the center of the back legs to the center of the stretcher. Attach to the back legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the brackets with glue and 1” screws toenailed through the corners into the legs and stretcher.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front and side supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the compartment sides and divider. Cut the angles as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. In one of the three pieces, the pocket holes will be drilled in the opposite side.
Cut the pieces for the compartment front and back. The back piece will have a 4 degree bevel cut in one long edge (for the slope of the doors). The front piece will be located ½” below the top of the sides and divider.
Attach the sides and divider to the front and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the compartment bottoms. Cut the notches as shown. Drill pocket holes in the bottom of each piece – there will be a left and a right.
Attach to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the entire compartment to the legs using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the sides into the legs. The top of the legs will be flush with the top of the sides.
Cut the piece for the back trim. Attach using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the piece for the lower trim. Cut the notches as shown. Attach to the feet using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top back. Cut a 4 degree bevel in one long edge (to fit flush against the back trim). Attach to the compartment using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the doors and the door trim. Attach the trim to the bottom of the door using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the continuous hinges to length. Install according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I hope you all had a fabuous Labor Day weekend, I know I labored quite a bit on projects around the house, but since I kinda love projects, all is well with me! We have a very exciting week of showcase posts, plans, and some other goodies including a video complete with an adorable 4 year old…hope you will visit us often. But first we shall begin with this beautiful build of Becky's! Just gorgeous and it definitely makes this mama proud of her!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Queen Stria Bed
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 4 – 1×2 at 6’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 17 – 1×3 at 6’
- One sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 5/8” brad nails
- Surface mounted keyhole bed rail brackets (like these)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 18” – Footboard Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 50” – Headboard Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 59” – Headboard & Footboard Frames
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 59” – Footboard Panel
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 36-1/2” x 59” – Headboard Panel
- 2 – 1×4 at 84” – Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 81” – Slat Supports
- 15 – 1×3 at 60-1/2” – Slats
- 18 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 60-1/2” – Trim Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and headboard/footboard frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws as shown in the drawings.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the headboard/footboard panels. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the frames using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The faces of the panels will be flush with the faces of the frames.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the sides and slat supports. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue!
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the trim slats. Attach to the headboard and footboard as shown with approximately ½” spacing using glue and 5/8” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Easy Peasy… had some extra lumber in the what-if pile.. and put this plan to good use. Thanks Rayan..
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired Pocket Desk Chair! I have actually loved this chair for a long time and I’m super excited to share plans with you today!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×4 at 6′
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- Scrap of 1×2 at 12”
- 1 – 1×4 at 2’
- ¾” plywood at 2’ x 2’
Materials
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×4 at 24” – Back Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 16-1/4” – Front Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 11-1/2” – Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 14” – Aprons
- 2 – 2×2 at 14-11/16” – Lower Stretchers
- 1 – 2×2 at 11-1/2” – Center Stretcher
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) at 11-1/2” – Back Slats
- 1 – 1×2 at 11-1/2” – Upper Back Slat
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 17” – Seat
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2” wide) at 4-7/8” – Pocket Sides
- 1 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 11-1/2” – Pocket Bottom
- 1 – 1×4 at 13” – Pocket Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the front legs. Draw the pieces for the back legs on the 2×4 and cut out using a jigsaw or a band saw.
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the lower and center stretchers. Cut the angles as shown in the ends of the side stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the back slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the 1×2 slat first. The outside face of this slat will be flush with the top of the back legs. Orient the pocket holes so they are facing down and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Drill pocket holes in each end of the wider slats. The front face of these slats will be flush with the front face of the legs. Attach using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws!
Step 4
Cut the piece for the seat. Attach to the chair using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the pocket sides. Cut the angles as shown and drill pocket holes in the longer ends. Attach to the back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the pocket bottom. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the pocket back. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
From grey painted wood floors to grey laminate flooring and tile, there is something of a perfect compromise in the gorgeousness that is a gray floor! We spoke earlier in the month about the dreamy and ethereal quality of white floors and while I absolutely adore the look, I’m fairly certain the responsibility is more than I can bear. But gray… oh j’adore gray… and as far as the amount of work a gray floor might require, I see it as being the perfect choice and a wonderful compromise from all directions. Not too light as to show all of the spills and footprints while not to dark as to show every dog hair and speck of dust within a mile. In a word…perfection!
I’m excited to announce my partnership with BestLaminate as an official blogger, and today’s topic is all about grey flooring and the art of compromise that it presents! Perhaps one of the more perfect flooring options out there, and of course it fits perfectly within the reclaimed love fest happening in blogland and beyond today!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Kids Inspired My First Table and Chairs and another fabulous project request!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
**Materials/cut list for one table and two chairs**
- 1 – 2×3 at 4’
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 3’
- 1 – ¾” square dowel at 3’
- One quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 3×3 posts at 3’
Materials
**Materials/cut list for one table and two chairs**
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
**Materials/cut list for one table and two chairs**
- 4 – 2×3 at 10-1/4” – Front Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 21” – Back Legs
- 8 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4”) at 8” – Seat Aprons
- 4 – 1×2 at 8” – Back Slats
- 4 – ¾” x ¾” dowels at 8” – Lower Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-5/8” x 11” – Seat
- 4 – 3×3 posts at 16-3/4” – Table Legs
- 4 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4”) at 17” – Table Aprons
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 24” – Table Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Draw out the legs for the chairs on the lumber and cut out with a jigsaw. Clamp the pieces together and sand as one unit.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the seat aprons and rip to 1-3/4”. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers from the ¾” square dowels. Drill a pocket hole in each end and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the back slats. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will lay parallel to the angle on the front of the chair legs.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the seats. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Attach to the chairs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat into the legs and aprons.
Cut the 3×3 posts to length. Cut the pieces for the table aprons and rip to 1-3/4” wide. Drill pocket holes in each end, as well as one long edge of each apron to attach the top. Attach to the posts using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The aprons will be set back ¼” from the outside edge of each leg.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the long edges of the aprons into the underside of the top.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I got the medicine cabinet plans from Design Confidential. Easy build but not easy to find the glass and drawer pulls I wanted. Neither Lowes nor HomeDepot offered opaque glass or plexiglass so I went to a local glass provider. Probably could have done better by just visiting my local flea market. I wanted drawer pulls that could hold a label but again not available locally. I found a wonderful web site for Kennedy Hardware and found just what I needed. Had to order twice what I needed to make the shipping costs worthwhile but I will use them on something later. Anyway I love the final result as do others that have seen it. I think if I make another one I will change the dimensions of the drawers to avoid any ends of the plywood showing forward. I will probably rework the present ones with some wood filler and fresh paint. If you build this project understand it is large and heavy so have substantial holding power when it is mounted on a wall.
The revised cabinet incorporates a photo of a medicine cabinet from a medeival French country hospita;. Hope you like it.
Estimated Cost
About $70 just because I wanted certain glass and drawer pulls. The cost of materials was not great but about one-half of the plywood was not used.
Length of Time
I am estimating that the total time over four days was about 16 hours. Lots of time just waiting for glue and paint to dry before moving to the next step.
Lumber Used
Nearly 100% pine. I did use poplar plywood for the drawers.
Finishing Technique
Three coats of spray enamel paint on the visible surfaces and one or two coats on the other surfaces.
I met Sonja Caldwell, a photographer, on Etsy.com who had taken a photgraph of a medicine cabinet in a medeival charity hospital. She worked really hard to size and crop the picture so it would fit in the open area in my cabinet. I really like the final result. Looks almost 3D.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a RH Baby & Child Inspired Finn Desk
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 4 – 2×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 2×2 at 3’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 3’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- 2 – 1×6 at 6’
- Half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Five sets of 18” drawer slides
- Five drawer pulls
- Edge banding for plywood
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 8- 2×3 at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 4 – 2×3 at 19” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 19” – Side Panels
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 19” – Inner Side Panels
- 6 – 2×2 at 10” – Back Frames & Lower Supports
- 2 – 2×2 at 20” – Back Frame
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 14-1/4” – Back Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 20” – Back Panel
- 6 – 1×2 at 10” – Middle, Upper Supports & Upper Aprons
- 2 – 1×2 at 20” – Upper Supports & Upper Aprons
- 4 – 1×2 at 19” – Pullout Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 51” – Top
- 8 – 1×6 at 9” – Drawer Boxes
- 8 – 1×6 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2” wide) at 16-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2” wide) at 19” – Drawer Box
- 4 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 9” x 18” – Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 18” x 19” – Drawer Bottom
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 9-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 19-3/4” – Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-7/8” x 21-1/4” – Pullouts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, side panels, and inner side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side frame pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side panels and inner panels as shown. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back panel frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back panels as shown. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the lower supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the lower supports. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the middle supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the upper supports and pullout supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the upper supports . Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Drill pocket holes in one long end of each pullout support. Attach to the side panels and inner panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the upper aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pieces so that the pocket holes are facing up.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the sides by ½” and the front by 1”. Attach the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the legs, aprons, and supports.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces and assemble the drawers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottoms using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Attach the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For a tutorial, click here.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the fronts. For an easy tutorial on how to install the fronts, click here.
Cut the pieces for the pullouts. Apply edge banding and slide into place.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a RH Baby & Child Inspired Vintage Farmhouse Crates with Plans for all three sizes!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
For the Large crate:
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 9 – ½” x 2 at 3’
- 2 – ¼” x 2 at 3’
- Scrap of ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 22-1/2”
For the Medium crate:
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 5 – ½” x 2 at 3’
- 1 – ¼” x 2 at 3’
- 1 – ¼” x 2 at 2’
- Scrap of ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 18-1/2”
For the Small crate:
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 3 – ½” x 2 at 3’
- 1 – ¼” x 2 at 3’
- Scrap of ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 14-1/2”
Materials
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 5/8” brad nails
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” angle brackets
- Two handles for each crate
- Jute rope to wind around slats
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
For the Large crate:
- 4 – 1×3 at 14” – Frame
- 4 – 1×2 at 14” – Side Frame
- 4 – 1×3 at 19” – Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 10-1/2” – Side Frames
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Bottom
- 28 – ½” x 2 at 9” – Slats
- 2 – ¼” x 2 at 10-1/2” – Side Trim
- 2 – ¼” x 2 at 19” –Trim
For the Medium crate:
- 4 – 1×3 at 12” – Frame
- 4 – 1×2 at 12” – Side Frame
- 4 – 1×3 at 15” – Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 18-1/2” – Bottom
- 22 – ½” x 2 at 7” – Slats
- 2 – ¼” x 2 at 8-1/2” – Side Trim
- 2 – ¼” x 2 at 15” –Trim
For the Small crate:
- 4 – 1×3 at 10” – Frame
- 4 – 1×2 at 10” – Side Frame
- 4 – 1×3 at 11” – Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 6-1/2” – Side Frames
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Bottom
- 16 – ½” x 2 at 5” – Slats
- 2 – ¼” x 2 at 6-1/2” – Side Trim
- 2 – ¼” x 2 at 11” –Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×3 pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the slats. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes at each end. There will be ½” spacing between each slat. Attach to the frames using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes and attach to the frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the bottom so that the pocket holes face down.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach to the slats using glue and 5/8” brad nails. Add 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” angle brackets to the outer top as desired.
Attach handles to the upper sides. If cloth handles are preferred, use cotton belting, cut to length, and attach to the inside of the slats (at the center) using screws and washers.
Wind jute rope around slats as desired.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
As bloggers, parents, or just average air breathing humans, most of us want to know how to take amazing pictures and record our lives in a beautiful way. Many of us even have nice DSLR cameras and decent equiptment that should help us do this… but do we actually know what to do with this expensive stuff once we have it? The short answer is no. The long answer is also no…just in case you were wondering. But where do we begin? There are hundreds of books on the market, and dozens of costly classes we can sign up for, and if one were so inclined there are quite literally hours upon hours we could dedicate to ‘figuring’ out how to apply those lessons ‘in real life’. Who actually has the time for this? Not I said the baby bump rockin mama, who is already mentally planning out the most glorious newborn photos to be found. Definitely not I said the mama to a preschooler who won’t sit still for half a second to even let me consider fabulous holiday photographs to send to family and friends (for those of you still waiting for my first baby’s birth announcements to arrive, you can pretty much assume it’s not happening…lack of free time and proper restraints for my child and all that).
So, I thought I might help us all out by rounding up some of the fab freebies available on the interwebs that teach us the basics in a simple and easy to understand manner.
Once we tackle some of these begginer tutorials, I will round up some more advanced (but still beginner) projects for us to try! Can I get a yahoo? yahoo…
First things first, we need to get a good handle on all of the pretty buttons our cameras have and what they do. The tutorial below is a great place to begin and will give you the lowdown on the most important features you need to pay attention to.
A Quick Guide To Understanding Your DSLR Camera
Once you have read through the article above, I recommend a quick read through the article below for some basic reminders and things to consider before you begin and while you are shooting. Some of these won’t make a lick of sense to you yet (not to worry, we will get there) and others are so basic they bring about that sense of ‘inner duh’ that you might have overlooked otherwise (like the camera level for example).
44 Essential Digital Camera Tips and Tricks
The article below is a fabulous list of things to keep in mind while getting to know your camera and learning to shoot. The perfect list of tips to help you cut through the crap and find the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow!
20 Things I Wish I knew About Photographing in Manual Mode
Once we have covered those few important key ingredients above we can dive into several of the topics with a bit more depth. Below I have outlined a number tutorials by subject matter. I hate to break it to you, but for this roundup most of the info is technical in nature. That’s just the way it is while we are attempting to figure out how to use those fancy buttons. The next roundup will be a bit more fun, promise… But first let’s get to know our cameras a bit more, shall we?
Handling and Caring for a DSLR Camera
The Basics of Exposure
Learning to Use Digital Camera Settings and Features
Tips, Tricks and Techniques
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Bouclier Coffee Table
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 4 – 1×2 at 8’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Edge banding for plywood
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 19” – Legs
- 5 – 1×2 at 29” – Frames & Support
- 4 – 1×2 at 40-3/4” – Frames
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 29” x 40-3/4” – Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 33-1/2” x 45-1/4” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, apply to the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle as shown in each leg. The angles will face to the inside of the table.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the frames and support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of each piece. Attach the frame pieces to the legs as shown with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Attach the support as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes as indicated. Attach inside the lower frame with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. It will overlap the legs by ¾” on all sides. Attach using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the bottom of the upper frame into the top.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
