Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Chesapeake Double Lounger

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Chesapeake Double Lounger via @TheDesConf

This piece continues our Chesapeake Collection and will be constructed just like the Free DIY Furiture Plan to Build a Chesapeake Single Lounger only this is twice the lovin’ and will fit twice the people on it! at least… The fabulous thing about this chaise lounge is that it is so beautiful, you can use it without a cushion if you prefer or to save yourself some dinero. I did construct it according to the Potterybarn dimensions so that their cushions and other standard lounge cushions will fit and work well. I can tell you right now, that I would be a happy gal if I had only 2 of these in my yard and no other seating…I would never leave! And of course this blog would either cease to exist or I would be blogging grass-side (since I don’t have a pool, I can’t say poolside…)!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$50-$75

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Potterybarn Inspired Chesapeake Double Lounger with Cushion

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw
Drill
Multi-Square and Carpenter’s Square
Sander
Kreg Jig – if you build frequently, invest in this one.
Nail Gun
Router with Patterning bit – or bit set

4 – 1×2 at 10’
2 – 1×2 at 8’
16 – 1×3 at 8’
2 – 1×6 at 8’
1 – 1×6 at 10’
1 – 1×8 at 6’ – optional for wheels
2 – 2×2 at 8’
1 – 2×4 at 6’
1 – 3/4” Dowel at 5’

2-1/2″ Pocket Screws
1-1/4″ Pocket Screws
1-1/4″ Wood Screws
2 – 8” wheels optional
Axle Rod – will need to be cut to size at 29″
Rubber Stoppers
4 small hinges – butt hinges will work perfectly
3/4″ Spade Bit
Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak– optional
Clamps
Safety Gear
Wood Filler
Wood Glue
Sanding Supplies
Paste Wax
Finishing Supplies

2 – 1×6 at 83 3/4” Frame
2 – 1×6 at 52” Frame
4 – 1×2 at 44 1/2” Interior Frame
3 – 1×2 at 52” Interior Frame
2 – 1×2 at 20 1/2” Back Rest Supports
1 – 1×2 at 51 1/2” Back Rest Support (Lower)
4 – 1×2 at 2 1/2” Back Rest Stops
2 – 1×2 at 2” Back Rest Stop
2 – 1×2 at 4 1/2” Back Rest Stop
2 – 1×2 at 14 1/2” Lower Back Rest Bar
2 – 1×2 at 24 1/2” Leg Stretchers
30 – 1×3 at 46 1/2” Seat Slats (Lower 17 and Back Rest Portion 13)
2 – 1×3 at 46 3/4” Seat Outside Runner Boards
2 – 1×3 at 35 1/2” Back Rest Outside Runner Boards
1 – 2×2 at 51 1/2” Back Rest Stand
1 – 2×2 at 27” Back Rest Stand
2 – 2×2 at 21 1/4” Back Rest Stand
2 – 2×4 at 9” Front Legs
2 – 2×4 at 7” Back Legs
1 – 3/4” Dowel Rod at 55” Axel
2 – 1×10 or 1×8 at an 7”-8” diameter circle (can also be a 7 1/4” diameter, this will depend on what you choose to carve from)

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Build the Frame: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.

Add the Interior Frame: Build using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, then fasten to the Frame using 1 1/4” Wood Screws and glue. Place the Interior Frame 3/4” from the top edge of the Frame to allow for the Seat Slats to rest flush in the next step. **If you would like to use your Kreg Jig to secure the seat in the next step, you will want to add the pocket holes to the Interior Frame prior to constructing and attaching it to the Frame. You don’t need to go crazy for that step, just add 3-4 pocket holes per interior frame board to simply hold the seat in place. You will attach in the next step.

Construct the Lower Seat: Using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, fasten the slats to the Outside Seat Boards. Leave 1/4” Overhang at one end of the Seat (the end that will sit in the center of the lounger and connect to the back rest). You will then attach this seat to the Interior Frame constructed in the previous step using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws in the locations you created in the previous step, or by fastening the seat to the frame using 1 1/4” wood screws from the top of the seat down into the frame.

Construct the Back Rest: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to construct the back rest portion of the seat, then attach to the Lower Seat using standard butt hinges.

Add the Back Rest Supports: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to attach your supports to the back rest. They will attach in a vertical position to the back rest and should be spaced 27 1/4” apart (yellow bars) to adequately allow for the back rest stand in the next step. The lower support (blue), will simply attach in the center of the lowest board to provide extra support for the back rest.

Construct the Back Rest Stand: Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue to construct the stand. It will be something of a T Shape, only with 2 legs and a bottom, so not really a T Shape at all, but you get the point. Once you have fastened the stand together, attach it to the Back Rest using standard butt hinges as shown (it’s shown in an attached and lowered position, but please note that other than with the hinges, it doesn’t attach to the back rest itself, it needs to be able to move and rotate as you can see in the second image below for this step).

Add the Back Rest Stops: Use your 1 1/4” Wood Screws and glue to fasten the 1×2 sections in place. You will place the stops 3/4” from the top edge just as you did with the interior frame, and each small section should be place about 2 1/2” from the next small section, but you are free to place these as you see fit for allowing the back rest to sit at comfortable positions in recline. Just be sure to allow for adequate space between the last stop (the 4 1/2” section in yellow) and the seat itself so that when the back rest is in the completely flat position there is plenty of room for the back rest stand to sit. The lower stop bar, will sit just below the actual back rest stops to act as a stop for the stops, so to speak, and will sit under the top bar of the interior frame and rest against the top portion of the frame itself.

Create the Legs and Attach them: To carve the shape for the legs, begin with a 2×4 and carve the curve from the top edge down to the location 2” in from the outside. The front and back legs will be different heights to allow for the wheels in the next steps. If you prefer to skip the wheels, you can make all 4 legs the same length and stop after this step! This is up to you.

Add the Axle: This is really simple and you will use a drill bit to create a hole in the back legs at the distance that equals the same distance as the bottom of your wheel to the axle hole (don’t forget the back wheels sit higher and don’t rest fully on the ground – factor this in!). The hole needs to be just slightly bigger in diameter than the axle you are using so a 3/4” bit should be perfect. You will need to cut your axle rod down to size. Do not glue the rod, simply insert and move the the next step.

Add the Wheels: Slide the wheels onto the outside of the axle. Measure the length your rubber stoppers will sit on your rod by placing them on the ends of your rod and marking off at the bottom edge. Measure this distance and cut your axle to size considering the following things it needs to account for: Your axle rod length will equal the distance between the legs, through the legs, through the wheels and then you will want to leave enough axle rod to go inside your rubber stoppers (all the way into the stopper). You can place a bit of epoxy on the edge of your rod to secure the stopper or simply leave as is.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. / Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!