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Well it’s the middle of January and I’m just now sharing these with you… surprise, surprise, eh? Just like the good little blogger that I am (ya, right), I am planning on documenting Baby Bird Penn’s monthly progress for the first 2 years of his life, in a cute little photo series. Now I am no professional photographer so of course these images could be a LOT better, but I’m learning and experimenting so perhaps this will also be a photography skills montage… who knows?
I decided to torture the poor creature by dressing him and his surroundings in a theme that relates to the month’s particular holiday or season, so for November it’s all about Fall! Yes apparently I love to make things complicated… I couldn’t just choose a chair or a fabric and call it a day. Nooooo… I had to settle on an entire scene complete with banner, decor, and matching attire.
And then I couldn’t decide which picture I liked best, so I narrowed it down to my 3 faves! The first image is most likely the best all around candidate, since he is both facing the camera and isn’t a blurry streak. With all the movement going on during the shoot, it’s a wonder I got any decent images at all. He must take after me with all the crazy kicking and dancing around. I should show you the ‘outtakes’ cuz they were pretty darn funny! The image above shows his appearance best. Even though he isn’t facing the camera, this one most closely resembles what he looks like in person. And of course the little tongue peeking out is also pretty typical since he eats like a starving child all day and all night.
But this last image is one of my absolute favorites because although it’s not ideal for a ‘cutesy newborn’ picture, it’s his personality all wrapped up in a one arm salute to baby-ness. When he isn’t swaddled, he is in a ‘one arm up’ position most of the time. Even when he is swaddled, he manages to Harry Houdini one of his arms out of that straight jacket on a regular basis. Perhaps he has a future in baby arm modeling, cuz I’m sure there is a need for that.
I will be back later with his December, month 2 photos… pretty darn cute, if I do say so myself!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Whitney Project Table! I can think of a million projects I might do on this project table, and I think it would be the perfect workspace slash utilitarian space of some sort, especially since it has drawers! Yay for storage! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 5 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- 2 sets of 28” drawer slides
- Drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 35-1/4” – Legs
- 9 – 1×2 at 31-1/2” – Side Frames & Slide Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Side Panels
- 4 – 1×2 at 41-1/2” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Back Panel
- 1 – 1×2 at 42-1/4” – Lower Stretcher
- 1 – 1×2 at 5-3/4” – Front Dividers
- 2 – 2×2 at 5-3/4” – Front Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 38” x 60” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 27-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 27-1/4” –Drawer Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-7/8” –Drawer Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 18-5/8” – Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out (one set toward the top and one set toward the bottom). This is so they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled!
Attach the side panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the lower stretcher as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the pocket holes so they are facing to the inside.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out.
Attach the back assembly to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be positioned so the pocket holes are facing up while the lower stretcher is positioned so the pocket holes face down.
Attach the lower stretcher at the center of the lower side stretchers. The piece can be positioned so the pocket holes face down.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Attach to the front stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretchers into the dividers.
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position them as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws into the front dividers and the back panel.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the top before the top is secured. The sides will overlap by 1-3/4” at the front and back, and 7-3/4” at each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side panels, back panel, and front stretcher.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I didn’t to the ladder because I think it would have stuck out too much because of the extra height. My son was a little nervous at first because of the height, but he loves it now. Thanks again for the plans Rayan!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Extra Wide Dresser! A fabulous way to finish off this collection, don’t you think? Yahoo! Xx… Rayan
Tools
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 4 – 1×2 at 8’
- 7 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 2’
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- One sheet of ½” plywood
- Two sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 8 sets of 18” drawer slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 8 – 1×3 at 37” – Side, Front, & Back Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 19-1/2” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 14-1/2” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×2 at 14-1/2” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 5-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Side Panels
- 2 – ½” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-3/4” – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×3 at 68” – Front & Back Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 63” – Front & Back Frames
- 1 – ½” plywood at 28” x 63” – Back Panel
- 1 – 1×2 at 28” – Front Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 5-3/4” – Front Frame
- 4 – 1×2 at 30-3/4” – Front Frame
- 8 – 1×2 at 19-1/2” – Side Slide & Top Supports
- 5 – 2×2 at 20” – Slide Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 21” – Tops
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Top Center
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 8 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 13-5/8” – Drawer Backs
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 14-3/8” – Drawer Fronts
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 28-1/4” –Lower Drawer Bottoms
- 8 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Lower Drawer Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/8” x 29-3/4” – Lower Drawer Backs
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/8” x 30-1/2” – Lower Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece, the center frame piece, and the lower frame piece. Also, drill pocket holes in the outer edges of the legs to attach the front and back frames.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the side panels with the back faces flush with the inside face of the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes and assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the frame to the front using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side frames.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece and the lower frame piece.
Cut the pieces for the back panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the panel with the back face flush with the inside face of the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the back to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side frames and bottom.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Attach to the sides of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame as well as flush with the inside edge of the front frame.
Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 slide support. Attach to the front frame divider using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws and to the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the slide support will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame.
Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes around all four edges. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside. The top face will be flush with the top edge of the front, back, and side frames.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom pieces as well as each end of the side pieces. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the front and back as shown. The drawer front will overlap the sides by 3/8”. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts. Install the cabinet hardware.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
I shared with you my one single solitary NYE project this year, here. What I didn't share with you was the transformation of this entire wall of my Master Bedroom and the DIY Pixel Art I completed to brighten things up a bit! So share I shall… all the wonderfully gory details! But not today… today I shall share how I made the Pixel Art and we will reconvene here later for the full transformation post! Ha… did I just seriously piss you off or what? Feel free to call me a tease, it's pretty much a true story!
To see more of my home and follow along with my transformations, visit my Home Tour page found under the Living tab in my menu!
I bought myself a couple of these enormous frames from IKEA because I was feeling rather large and in charge and wanted a big piece of art for this space to reflect that. It might have been a tad too big, but it serves it's purpose, indeed!
I used the print above, by Fabian Tabibian as my inspiration for this project, but you could just as easily buy it if you prefer.
Because I'm kind of a lazy crafter I used the paper insert as my canvas. I traced out the inside edge of the mat so I would have my boundaries and then divided it up into relatively equal sized squares using a pencil.
Then I simply painted the squares using my trusty craft paints in a pattern and color scheme that worked for me and looked like it might be an image blown up into it's pixelated form.
And then I decided I hated it in this space… womp womp. So I switched it out with a painting from another room and I'm a much happier cranky pants mama. I will be back later to show you where she ended up and what took her place! Yahoo.
Showcase
I did it!!! With some modifications, but everyone that has seen it loves it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Bedside Table. Still loving this collection! Xx… Rayan
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 5 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- One quarter sheet of ½” plywood
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Edge banding for plywood, if desired
- 1 set of 18” drawer slides
- 2 sets of hinges
- Door & Drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 8 – 1×3 at 29” – Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 18” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 13” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 13” x 21” – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×3 at 28” – Front & Back Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 23” – Front & Back Frames
- 1 – ½” plywood at 21” x 23”- Back Panel
- 1 – 1×2 at 23” – Front Frame
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 26-1/2” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – 1×2 at 18” – Slide Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
- 2 – 1×4 at 17-1/4” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – 1×4 at 22” – Drawer Back
- 1 – 1×4 at 22-3/4” – Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-5/16” x 15-1/2” – Doors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Cut the miters in the tops of the legs as well as each end of the top frame piece. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered ends of the top frame piece, each end of the lower frame piece, and the outside edge of the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panel. Position the panel in the frame with the back face flush with the inside of the panel. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Cut the miters in the tops of the legs as well as each end of the top frame piece. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered ends of the top frame piece, each end of the lower frame piece, and the 1×2 stretcher. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side legs into the front legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the top and bottom. Drill pocket hole screws in all four edges of each piece. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the top will be flush with the top edge of the front and side frames. The bottom will be flush with the top edge of the lower frame pieces.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the back. Assemble in the same manner as the sides. Attach to the sides, top, and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Apply edge banding to all four edges if desired. Attach the hinges to the doors, then attach to the cabinets. Make any necessary adjustments.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
This was my first project with wood and I could not have done it without the simple and informative plans provided by this site. I altered the dimensions to fit my kitchen, but the basics were developed from the plans located here:
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Large Dawson Media Console. LOVE this collection, that’s all I have to say… Xx… Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 4 – 1×2 at 8’
- 7 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 2’
- One sheet of ½” plywood
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
- One half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 8 – 1×4 at 38” – Side, Front, & Back Frames
- 2 – 1×4 at 20” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×4 at 13” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×2 at 13” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 8” x 13” – Side Panels
- 2 – ½” plywood at 13” x 17-1/2” – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×4 at 72” – Front & Back Frames
- 2 – 1×4 at 65” – Front & Back Frames
- 1 – ½” plywood at 27” x 65” – Back Panel
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 70-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – 1×2 at 65” – Front Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 7-1/2” – Front Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 18” – Front Frame
- 1 – 1×2 at 20-1/2” – Front Frame
- 8 – 1×2 at 20” – Side Slide & Top Supports
- 2 – 2×2 at 20” – Slide Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 23-1/2” – Tops
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Top Center
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 18-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 10 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 19-3/4” – Drawer Backs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 18” – Center & Lower Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Center Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 20-1/4” – Center Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 19-1/2” – Lower Drawer Backs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 20-1/4” – Lower Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 20-1/2” – Doors
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece, the center frame piece, and the lower frame piece. Also, drill pocket holes in the outer edges of the legs to attach the front and back frames.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the side panel pieces to the horizontal pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and 1” pocket holes through the side panels into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the top frame pieces.
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes and assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the frame to the front using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side frames and bottom.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the front and back edges. Attach to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the bottom piece should be flush with the top of the lower frame pieces at the sides and back.
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece and the lower frame piece.
Cut the pieces for the back panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the back panel piece to the top and bottom pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and 1” pocket holes through the side panels into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the top frame pieces.
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Attach to the sides of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame as well as flush with the inside edge of the front frame.
Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 slide support. Attach to the front frame divider using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws and to the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the slide support will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame.
Cut the piece for the top support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes around all four edges. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside. The top face will be flush with the top edge of the front, back, and side frames.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom pieces as well as each end of the side pieces. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the front and back as shown. The drawer front will overlap the sides by 3/8”. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts. Install the cabinet hardware.
Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors as well as in the center. Install the hinges and the cabinet hardware.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
It's far from perfect but, for my first piece of furniture, I'm pretty proud of it.
Estimated Cost
I think I paid about $90 (including cutting it down, planing it, etc) for all the wood so it was still pretty economical, all told.
Modifications
Instead of using edge banding, I got 1.5″ trim and put that around the sides of the tabletop. I decided to use the trim because 1) I couldn't find edge banding in the color I wanted 2) It seemed like it was kind of a cheap finish for the table anyways. I just affixed it with some wood glue and a couple of carefully placed brads that, with the dark stain I used, you can't even see. Using the trim also allowed me to give it a decorative edge without the need for a router (don't have one…yet).
Lumber Used
The wood I used for this was fir. I didn't want to go with regular knotty pine from a home improvement store so I got this from a local lumber yard (oak was way too expensive).
Finishing Technique
I stained it using Minwax Water Based Stain (toffee is the color) and finished it with 3 coats of Minwax Water Based Poly.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Tray Table! Um… how cute is this! LOVE this project and I hope you do to! It's part of a large collection we are rolling out and I can't wait to see who builds from it first! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- 1” paddle bit or hole saw
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8'
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×6 at 16-1/2” – Tray Frame
- 2 – 1×6 at 30” – Tray Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 28-1/2” – Tray Bottom
- 4 – 1×2 at 37-9/16” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Stretchers
- 2 – 1×2 at 15” – Stretchers
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw or miter saw.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach the stretchers to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be parallel to the angle in the top of the leg and the lower stretcher will be parallel with the outside edge of the leg.
Attach the legs to each other as shown using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Maintain the dimensions shown.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the tray frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Using a paddle bit or hole saw, drill two holes in the side frame pieces as shown. Draw lines connecting the top of the holes as well as the bottom of the holes, then cut out with a jigsaw to create the handles.
Draw the notches on the lower edges of the longer frame pieces and cut out with a jigsaw. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the tray bottom. Drill pocket holes as shown. Position the bottom in the frame 1” up from the lower edge and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Attach the leg assembly to the tray using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the upper stretchers into the bottom of the tray.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
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I told you guys it would take me well into the New Year to finish sharing my holiday decor, didn’t I? Ya… true story. We are still on NBT here (newborn baby time) so expect EVERYTHING to take 3 times as long as it might for most normal folks! In fact, as I am writing this, I am actually mentally prepping to begin the final takedown, which I never ever enjoy. I don’t know about you guys, but I adore how my home transforms for the holidays. There is something so very magical about those warm twinkly lights and most of the time I wish it wouldn’t be weird to leave them up year round. I suppose that is why I might have created crafty projects this year, that have those particular twinkly lights (here and here). Perhaps I was actually thinking ahead to this moment in time when I start to mourn the loss of Christmas! Or.. perhaps it was just a happy coincidence (definitely), but either way it does make the occasion a tad less sad! Yipee…
