If you loved the Toscana Table but need something fabulous for outdoor use, this easy to build DIY table is just for you! Complete with cooling tray down the center, it’s the perfect party addition to your summer bbq plans!
$50-$75
- 9 – 2×4 at 8’
- 7 – 2×6 at 6’
- ¾” sheet metal screws (for gutter)
- 3” Wood Screws
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Screws
- 2-1/2″ Wood Screws
- 2″ Wood Screws
- 1 – Metal gutter
- 2 – Metal end caps (left & right)
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak– optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 8 – 2×4 at 20-1/8” – Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 43-13/16” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 36-1/2” – Frame
- 4 – 2×4 at 64” – Frame & Supports
- 4 – 2×4 at 12-1/2” – Supports
- 1 – 2×4 at 58” – Stretcher
- 2 – 2×4 at 38-1/2” – Top Ends
- 6 – 2×6 at 63” – Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the straight edges of the shorter pieces. Assemble in an “X” as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. There will be four assemblies. Using glue and 2-1/2” countersunk screws, secure two Xs together back to back (pocket holes on the inside) to form two table legs.
Cut the pieces for the aprons and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer apron pieces as well as the stretcher. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each of the longer apron pieces, as well as the center of each shorter piece, to attach the table top. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach the legs to the frame using glue and 3” countersunk screws from the outside. The top of the legs should be flush with the top of the frame.
Attach the stretcher to the center of the cross-sections of the Xs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as well as in one long end of the longer pieces to attach the top. Secure to the frame as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the table top. Drill pocket holes in the 2×6 pieces as shown. Assemble the 2×6 pieces together first using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the 2×4 ends using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
The top will overlap the frame by 1” on each side, and 1-1/2” at each shorter end. Use 2” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the frame into the table top.
Cut the gutter to fit in the center space allowing for the end caps. Using sheet metal screws, drill through the gutter into the top pieces. Drill a few holes in the bottom of the gutter to allow for drainage.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
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