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Design / Home / Shopping
Some of you probably remember my plan of attack for the bird’s nursery.. you can read more about that here. I thought I would update you on what’s been done so far, yahoo! I am obviously avoiding my master bedroom right now since my last update was on the progress in that room, or lack thereof… But my next round of projects for that space are a bit more involved and the bird leaves little to no time for that fun stuff, most days.
So I’m flitting around room to room working on little projects here and there, and like the terrible blogger that I am, this project is one I could have shared months ago, and didn’t… yay for procrastination.
In the bird’s moodboard, I show the most fabulous mobile with paper gems and a pop of color among the remaining moody blues. I was so excited to order this guy and so excited to put it together and get it hung (way back in April of last year…) and then tragedy struck! Nobody croaked or anything, but the mobile thread (yes that is what it dangles from) broke in two places and 2 of the paper gems didn’t have the sticky stuff to put them together. *Insert unhappy face here*
Luckily customer service was wonderful and they sent a replacement right out and this one was intact. BUT… in true pregnant mama fashion I decided I hated the colors. They weren’t quite like they are shown on the package or on the site. They were decidedly more muted and a bit blah to be quite honest.
Since this bad boy was paper… you know I couldn’t let it rest as is and I took to it with some craft paint and crayon. I added a turquoise blue, sea green, and pink in paint and went over the browns and beiges. Then I used a white colored pencil and lightly went over the orange color which made it decidedly more neon orange in person, which is awesome!
You can see how this little corner of the room is shaping up. I still have a ton to do and of course as soon as I finish I will very likely change everything up and begin again since I have the worst case of Design ADD known to man… In the meantime it will be fun to share some of the easy peasy projects with you guys and see how baby bird likes his new digs. He will be ready to move in within the month I think, and it will likely take me till next year to get around to sharing the deets, ha… exciting times my lovelies!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Design Workshop File Cabinet Components! Moving right along through this fun and industrial collection of modular office (or closet) pieces!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- One set of 14” drawer slides
- 2” casters
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 22” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 20-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 17-1/4” – Top & Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 16-1/2” – Shelf
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 14” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 14” – Smaller Drawer Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 14” – Larger Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 12-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 12-3/4” – Larger Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 13-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 13-1/2” – Larger Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back piece. Attach to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating it ¾” down from the top and ¾” up from the bottom.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the top, bottom, and shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top and bottom piece. Drill pocket holes in three edges of the shelf. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut the notch in the front of each piece using a jigsaw.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts.
Step 5
Attach the casters to the bottom of the cabinet.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Wisteria Inspired Reclaimed Pine Entertainment Console. Isn’t this gal a stunner? Yahoo, you should totally build this like right now! Actually you really should because it’s completely stylish and definitely fabulous… so go, and make some sawdust fly my friends… Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 9 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 4 – 1×4 at 8’
- 2 – 1×8 at 8’
- 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- Six sets of 14” drawer slides
- Drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 27-1/2” – Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 81” – Front & Back Frame
- 4 – 2×2 at 26-1/2” – Front & Back Frame
- 12 – 2×2 at 25” – Front & Back Frame
- 3 – 3/4” plywood at 20-1/2” x 25” – Back Panel
- 10 – 2×2 at 14-1/2” – Side Frames & Slide Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14- 1/2” x 78” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 25” – Shelves
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 6 – 1×4 at 13-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Sides
- 3 – 1×4 at 24” – Smaller Drawer Back
- 3 – 1×4 at 24-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Front
- 6 – 1×8 at 13-1/4” – Larger Drawer Sides
- 3 – 1×8 at 24” – Larger Drawer Back
- 6 – 1×4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 24-3/4” – Larger Drawer Front
- 3 – 1×2 at 24-3/4” – Larger Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut the miters in each end of the top piece as well as the top of each leg piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered end of the legs. Also drill pocket holes in the other pieces as shown. The inside leg pieces will have pocket holes drilled in the top only. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel piece. Position the each panel in the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back of each panel will be flush with the back of the frame.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the frame pieces. Attach the sides to the back legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the frame pieces into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side panels into the back legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Cut the miters in each end of the top piece as well as the top of each leg piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered end of the legs. Also drill pocket holes in the other pieces as shown. The inside leg pieces will have pocket holes drilled in the top only. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the front frame, sides, and back frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the top will be flush with the top faces of the front, sides, and back.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. The upper supports will be positioned so the top is flush with the top of the corresponding front frame piece. The bottom of the middle and lower supports will be flush with the top of the corresponding frame pieces. Secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the front frame, sides, and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top faces of the front frame.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the fronts of the larger drawers. The fronts will be pieced so they look like the smaller drawers. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the remaining pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8″ on each side. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.. Make any necessary adjustments. Install the drawer pulls.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
These components are designed to work with steel shelving standards and brackets similar to these where screws can be inserted through the bottom of the bracket into the component.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- One half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- Screws to go through the bracket into the component – length will vary
- One set of hinges
- Two cabinet pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 29-1/2” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 17-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 29-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 14-9/16” – Doors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the side pieces. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back piece. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back into the top.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then attach the hinges to the cabinet. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors as well as in between. Install the cabinet pulls.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Studio
Well the time has come to draw a winner for our fabulous giveaway and announce that most lucky winner! And in fact, the winner has been notified via email and is posted on the giveaway itself, yay! Go see if it's you…
Before I leave you all with my sincere appreciation for your participation in this giveaway I thought I would actually just take a minute to chat with you about the products themselves and Ryobi Nation, totally unsolicited, in other words this isn't part of my sponsorship (I fulfilled that here) and is totally my own personal opinion.
First things first… for those of you who entered the giveaway and completed the entry for registering at Ryobi Nation, you already know what a crazy big community they have going over there, and what some of the benefits to you might be, for sharing your own projects in that forum… but for the rest of you I thought I might let you in on a little fabulous nugget of info here. Each month there is a prize awarded for a winning project ($500 value) and for those of you who build in general and build from my site, you already have a leg up on this since that means you have projects to enter.
So, my point here is that if you are building anything at all it might behoove you to go share it over there and be a contender to win that prize. Nuff said…
Now my second little token of knowledge I would love to impart on you is that the Ryobi One+ 18V Lithium Ion Combo Kit we were giving away here is actually just one drop in the bucket compared to what is available as part of this collection of tools. Now what is so special about them, aside from the obvious 18V Lithium Ion batteries, is that every piece in this collection uses the SAME BATTERY which means that at any given time you can have multiple batteries charged and raring to go for your use. All you need to do is pull one off the multi-battery charger, swap it with your previous battery and you are good to go. So basically, your drill, circular saw, reciprocating saw, flashlight etc all use the same batteries. Do you hear what I'm trying to tell you here? Pretty smarty stuff, ya?
I for one plan to enter my projects there and win me some tools baby! I hope anyway…
And now for the technical sponsored info just in case… even though it doesn't technically apply to this post!
- RYOBI Nation is an online destination for power tool and DIY enthusiasts to share photos of their project successes, vote on their favorite projects for the opportunity to win prizes and have access to special offers on Ryobi power tools.
- The RYOBI ONE+ system offers more versatility, value and performance for DIYers and pros on a budget. The Home Depot has over 50 Ryobi products that are compatible with the Ryobi ONE+ Lithium Ion battery. Drills, saws, outdoor power tools and other types of tools all use the ONE+ battery.
- Perfect for any DIYer, the RYOBI18V ONE+ Lithium Ion Compact Drill Kit features the latest in power tool technology. Weighing less than three pounds, the RYOBI One+ Compact Drill Kit is easy for users of any strength or skill level to use.
The Home Depot Disclosure Statement: The Home Depot partnered with bloggers such as me to help promote their Lithium Ion power tool collection. As part of this promotion, I received compensation for my time. They did not tell me what to purchase or what to say about the products. The Home Depot believes that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. The Home Depot’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Design Workshop Open Cabinet Component! We are starting a new modular series… yipee! My fave! These components are designed to work with steel shelving standards and brackets similar to these where screws can be inserted through the bottom of the bracket into the component. Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- One half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- Screws to go through the bracket into the component – length will vary
- One set of hinges
- Two cabinet pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 29-1/2” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 17-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 29-1/2” – Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the side pieces. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back piece. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back into the top.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
I am always a strong lover and proponent of cool colors with high contrast and streamlined, organized, and clutter free spaces… but if I really take a close look at what inspires me, it's often quite the opposite, and I'm always taken by surprise… shocker… I hardly know a thing about myself, clearly I'm delusional!
There is something magical about an office space that is so obviously inspiring to it's human inhabitant and tends toward the chaotic and highly layered. I adore the messy and carefree moodboards and the warm girlish colors each of these spaces shows. While normally I think I fall into this design style personality, perhaps I'm wrong… or schizophrenic…
Multiple Design Personalities… it must be a thing…
1 / 2 / 3
I try my best to find the original sources but sometimes they allude me. If you know the original source please let me know so I can provide proper credit. Xx…Rayan
Showcase
This is my design for a fishing rod holder. It is made to hang on the wall of a garage or livingroom ( that's if you're allowed).
Estimated Cost
Scrap lumber from a previous job.
Home
It's finally here… the bird's 3 month photos! It's becoming such an exciting thing for me to see the changes and improve my photography skills or cement my lack thereof. Last time, I thought I had really learned a thing or two about how to wrangle that kiddo into an easy posing position, only to find that I really hadn't and that 1 month of growth has made wrangling him that much harder. Boo…
Psst…To take a look back at the first 2 months, click here for the Monthly Photos category page, here for Month 1 in November, and here for Month 2 in December.
And now for the break dance breakdown, since that was what this shoot was like. eek.
The first picture is once again the most typical sort for this type of photo. Cute, soft, facing the camera (kind of) and a good representation of him. I only wish his outfit were showing a bit better because you guys… he's wearing a baby tuxedo! Could you just die? or eat him up? or die from eating him up?
This second photo isn't bad, but I much prefer 'him' in the first photo. I just adore that you can see that cutie bowtie in this one! D.I.E.
This 3rd shot is my fave because it shows what was actually happening for 99.9% of this shoot. He could not stop looking at the 2013 garland. I can hardly blame the little dude, the thing is mega sparkly.
Below is the full collage of my 'fave' photos and a collection with a closer look at him!
Below is the full collage of my 'fave' photos and a collection with a closer look at him!
Oh baby bird is getting big so fast. Why can't it just slow down for the first 5 years….
Plans / Uncat
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Jacqueline Dresser. To me, this piece is both substantialy and dainty at the same time. It’s that classic look of a traditional piece with french lines made to stand the test of time. love…. Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 4 – 1×2 at8’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
- Drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 36-1/4” – Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 18” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 27-3/4” – Side Panels
- 6 – 1×2 at 38” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 27-3/4” x 38” – Back Panel
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 21” x 42” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 35-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Small Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 37” – Small Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 37-3/4” – Small Drawer Front
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 17-1/4” – Large Drawer Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 37” – Large Drawer Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 37-3/4” – Large Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20-1/2” – Hutch Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 39-1/2” – Hutch Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 41” – Hutch Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out (one set toward the top and one set toward the bottom). This is so they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled!
Attach the side panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out.
Attach the back assembly to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be positioned so the pocket holes are facing up while the others are positioned so the pocket holes face down.
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the top before the top is secured. The sides will overlap by ½” at each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side panels, back panel, and front stretcher.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the sides of the hutch. Maintain the dimensions shown in the drawing and draw a line to cut a decorative curve using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the lower edge of the pieces – keep in mind there will be a right and a left. Apply edge banding, if desired. Position the pieces so they are located ½” in from the side edges, and the back edge is flush with the back edge of the top. Attach to the top of the dresser using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back of the hutch. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the hutch top. Apply edge banding to all four edges, if desired. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the hutch sides and back.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Clara Buffet with a Drop-Down TV Option! This is a Custom Plan for a reader with a TV containment and dropdown option! How cool is that biz… yahoo Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 3’
- Half sheet of ½” plywood
- 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 1 – 4×4 at 3’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 2” screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- Two sets of hinges (doors)
- Continuous hinge (for the top door)
- Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×3 at 15” – Side Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 29-1/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 15” x 24-1/4” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 44-1/2” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 28-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Large Divider & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/4” x 28-1/2” – Divider
- 2 – 1×2 at 21-7/8” – Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 21-7/8” – Upper Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 21-7/8” – Lower Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 47” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 37-3/4” – Top Door
- 2 – 1×3 at 46” – Base Frame
- 3 – 1×3 at 17” – Base Frame
- 4 – 4×4 at 3-1/4” – Feet
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 6-3/4” – Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 6-3/4” x 20-1/8” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 21-5/8” – Drawer Fronts
- 4 – 1×3 at 16-5/8” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 21-3/4” – Door Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 16-5/8” x 16-3/4” – Door Panels
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.
Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the two shorter ends. Attach the sides with the bottom of the frames flush with the bottom face using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the large divider. Drill pocket holes as shown, and secure to the bottom and sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the three shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Attach the feet to the frame with countersunk 2” screws through the base frame into the feet.
Attach the base to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the frame into the bottom.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the narrower divider. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges, and secure to the large divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of each shelf and secure with the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower shelves are narrower and are located ¾” back from the front edge.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the top. Cut the opening as shown. Secure to the cabinet with ½” overlap at the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, dividers, and stretchers.
Cut the piece for the door. Cut an optional finger hole at the front of the door to make it easier to open. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. The hinge can be placed at the front or back of the opening.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Attach the bottom to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front and back, and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the doors and assemble as shown, in the same manner as the sides. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then shim in place and attach the hinges to the cabinet.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Home
It's been a full year since I created this moodboard for my master bedroom and began the process of recreating this in real life, on a budget. I can honestly say I have come pretty far, but I am my own worst enemy here. You see every time I complete a project I feel the need to immediately rework things to better represent my original plan. Because quite frankly I LOVE this moodboard and want to have this exact feeling and design in my room and nothing else will do.
But I have run into a few problems that need addressing. And of course now I also need to undo all that has been done to stray from this plan in hopes that those things might work temporarily or in the stead of the original ideas, only to find that they don't! eek!
But I feel a little scattered so this post will act as an update and progress post for you guys, a more detailed breakdown of each item and an explanation of how I planned to put the inspiration image into use in real life, along with a 'to-do list' for me, to guide the remainder of this journey! yahoo!
This moodboard represents my California sunshine state love… it's beautiful, sunny and a little bit modern with some vintage all wrapped in this cute little package!
1 / 2 / 3 / 4
1. Instant photos taken and clipped to twine strung around a tree
- So obviously clipping the instant photo twine string around a tree is not going to be an altogether literal translation in this space. While I did in fact LOVE the clipped images on twine, what I really loved was their being strung around a tree. This is going to require a bit genius on my part because I NEED to have this. Yes I need it. I really do!
2. Zentangle art
- Admission: I have actually completed this project and not blogged about it. I know, I know.. it's awful really. In fact I have a queue of projects that I have done, some good, some meh (including this one)… and I just haven't gotten around to sharing! Eek! Those of you who follow along with me on Instagram and FB might have seen glimpses of this baby in a couple of photos… that's kind of like blogging right?
3. Brass Wall
- I love this. Period. And I love it for it's honestly of material which is my obstacle here. There are plenty of paper versions of this, and I just may end up going that route for the sake of my wallet, but what I really love is the real deal brass pieces hung as you see here. LOVE.
4. Heart Photos
- So simple, and just plain fabulous, and yet I have yet to do this because I can't seem to get myself together and actually print photos. I have no idea why this is, but I know I'm not alone. I think maybe the 2 billion photos I have stored have become a tad daunting to even contemplate sorting through to pic the 27 or so that this project actually requires. Because let's face it folks, I can't just grab a few photos here and there, they must be the BEST photos EVER that I choose. Le Sigh… obsess much? I think so…
5 / 6 / 9 / 12
5. Landscape Painting
- Womp, womp, womp… this baby is no longer available at art dot com which is a major bummer. Of course that means I will have to attempt to recreate something along these lines myself. Which is of course entirely possible, just time consuming. With baby bird around, time is something I have very little of. You can see my attempt at finding a solution I already own here, and the art I created before that in the stead of this inspiration piece…and while the current piece works for now and the created piece work as well, they stray from the overall feeling of the moodboard and will likely go the way of the birds as soon as I work on recreating this project as it should be.
6. Medallion Wall Art
- I love this idea and the colors are superb for my purposes… but did you know these puppies are pricey? Ya, like for real. A big one of these can be upwards of $50 and of course this project must have 3 or 4 to make it look like anything other than an accidental wall decor project.
- So guess what? I made my own very inexpensive version of wall medallions using paper and foam, and it has worked for a year!!! Yippee for inexpensive fixes. Except now I really want the real deal Holyfield. Back to the drawing board again.
9. Landscape Painting
- Those of you who have been with me a while know that I did in fact create this painting and a tutorial to go along with it! Yay, you can have one too…
12. Word Art
- I also made my own quick and easy wall decor word art using the word ADORE (and I posted the printables so you can create word art too, yahoo!) and in a color that resembles the brass wall I mentioned above. It is one of the few projects I completed in here that actually works as is, and that I love. Of course each time I look at the moodboard I feel like I want to remain true to it, so we shall see if it gets a little silver switcheroo in the future. Not sure yet.
7 / 8 / 10 /11
7. Workspace
- This is questionable, to be sure. I haven't added an actual workspace to this room as of yet, but I did add some shelving and storage (item 8) and it's currently functioning dual duties. I would however like to separate these two items and stick more closely to the original plan. Just not there yet.
8. Shelving and Storage
- I'm proud to say I have adding shelving!!! And a bit of storage, but I'm not finished with that portion yet. The shelving I chose to add is the Expidit shelving from IKEA because frankly you just can't beat the $60 price tag. It's one of those items that makes more sense to buy than to build, which given my status as a newborn baby mama… is fab because I don't have the time to build just yet anyhow! Done deal… You can see a glimpse of that here, but I will in fact share more about this baby as I complete the storage portion of this item!
10. Herringbone
- I think this hand drawn herringbone is the bees knees, and I want to add this pattern into the room somehow. I attempted this with a new technique on some fabric for curtains, and to this day it was perhaps the biggest DIY FAIL I have ever had, lol! I will share that with you all shortly so you might avoid attempting this kind of thing on your own. Back to the drawing board on this project too, and I still don't have curtains, yikes… double fail!
11. Bedding
- I have in fact gotten my rear in gear for the bedding portion of this project. I'm not finished, but you can see what I purchased here, and a glimpse of it in action here.
13 / 14 / 15
There are a few projects, of course, that I have done that weren't even on the moodboard that deserve a bit of a mention…
13. Nightstands
You can see a glimpse of them in their orginal state here and their current state here and here. They have gone from the fabulous hand painted finish of yore to a bright white, and are now a perfect fit in this space. Not to mention they were quite banged up and I was able to fix much of the disrepair that has befallen these beauties over the years.
14. Dymomite Art
I am occasionally inspired by a quote or two and what better way to remember how to keep a good head on my shoulders than to put a phrase or two right by my bed to read when I wake up! I create a post about this project here and you can see them in action here… LOVE them.
15. Chalkboard Remix
Some of you might remember these chalkboards in my nook area from a couple of years ago… well they have been repainted and relocated to this new area next to my shelving solution. You can see a glimpse of them here and here.
