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This past weekend I began the most marvelous partnership (and love affair) with Denio's Farmer's Market & Swap Meet! I have to tell you it's been years since I have been out there, which is silly because some of my most prized treasures came from there. You can see my favorite trunks here and there are numerous other treasures scattered throughout my home that I have yet to show you. This new adventure was nothing short of spectacular, and my whole family enjoyed the day spent sampling the produce and yummy edible treats, while we wandered the aisles filled with hidden gems. I managed to find myself some goodies that found there way home with me and I can't wait to incorporate them fully into the decor! In fact I have already started!
You can see the fabulous oversized painting above, along with those gorgeous gold nesting tables… love! I will likely change the painting up a bit but it works for the moment, and only cost a few dollars for this crazy big canvas! At the very least I will be framing it out and touching it up! The tables will stay as they are for now since they are chic perfection (you can see a better close up of them below) and the weathered plant life below may or may not stay as it is. It would be fabulous sprayed in a bold or bright color too I think. I spent a total of $11 on all of these items, if you can believe that, and please disregard the sloppy slipcover on that couch….ugh I hate sloppy.
The hubster is already asking when we will make our next trip out, and the boy… well he loves anything with snacks and toys… so he is pretty much sold on Denio's. Of course you know this mama loves to shop so I could go daily and be a happy gal!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ava Console Table. This simple build is just so stylish, yahoo! I can’t wait to see who gives this collection a try first…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/2” screws
- One 18” x 45” piece of Plexiglas
- Clear rubber bumpers (to place the glass on the frame)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 10-11/16” – Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 41” – Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 38” – Stretcher
- 4 – 1×3 at 32-5/16” – X
- 4 – 1×3 at 15-9/16” – X
- 4 – 1×3 at 15-3/4” – X
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the Xs. Cut the angles as shown – they are NOT 45 deg angles! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as shown. Assemble the Xs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws maintaining the dimensions as shown. Attach two X assemblies to each other (with the pocket holes facing in) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the center of each X assembly using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the frame on the X assemblies with the pocket holes facing down and secure using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk screws.
Step 4
Position the rubber bumpers on the frame and set the Plexiglass on top.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
I hope you all had an amazing heart shaped holiday yesterday and I want to thank you all for voting for me in The Homies! We came in second and that is amazing! I am honored to have even been among such DIY Greatness! Yahoo.
Today’s topic involves the Heart and Love, but not in a Valentine kind of way. You see when I was a girl I used to hate all things pink and heart shaped. I have always been a lover a blue and green and geometric shapes rather than soft fluffy and pink. As I have gotten older, I find myself drawn to hearts and pink more and more… so today we shall celebrate hearts and love in decor that last beyond the heart shaped holiday. Anytime… is a good time for love and hearts.
Showcase
I was asked to build a stand to hold up a bean bag toss by my bosses at Driscoll Children's Hospital. Instead of just a stand it was just as easy to build an easel and make it multi-tasking. One side is the easel and the other side is a blackboard or used as another easel stand. I thought it would be a perfect adaptation of the Restoration Hardware Industrial Chic Chalkboard Easel. The picture shows it in use with the wonderful bosses posing with it. Here is a link to the original plans from which I came up with the final product: https://www.thedesignconfidential.com/2011/03/free-diy-furniture-plans-to…
Since it is for the kids I made the various parts different colors – red , blue, green and yellow. Nice and bright.
The build is larger than the original design. Mine is 48″ high by 31″ wide.
Chain prevents the easel from doing a dramatic split.
Non-skid pads on the feet.
Estimated Cost
It was a donation to the hospital but I will tell you this it did not cost more than $30
Length of Time
Total time maybe four hours to build it and 8 hours to paint. The chalkboard was given three coats and three days to cure.
Lumber Used
All pine , nothing special.
Finishing Technique
I used Valspar spray enamel (gloss) in red, green, yellow, and blue. It says it contains primer so that saved a step but each piece received three coats.
Plans
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 4×4 at 8’
- 4 – 1×2 at 6’
- 4 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 4 – 2×4 at 8’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- 4 – 5” casters
- 8 – angle brackets for edges, optional
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 4×4 at 22-1/4” – Legs
- 6 – 2×4 at 10-1/2” – Side Frames
- 6 – 2×4 at 51-1/2” – Stretchers
- 4 – 1×2 at 51-1/2” – Slat Supports
- 34 – 1×3 at 10-1/2” – Slats
- 4 – 2×2 at 13-11/16” – X
- 8 – 2×2 at 6-1/8” – X
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 58-1/2” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece. Attach to the middle and lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, making sure the bottom face is flush with the bottom face of the stretchers.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the supports using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. There will be ½” spacing between each piece.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the X. Cut the angles as shown – they are NOT 45 deg angles! Draw a line at the measurement shown, then draw another line from the corner of the board to the opposite end of the line in order to make the angle. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the straight edges of the shorter pieces. Maintain the dimensions shown in drawing 2 and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Attach the X using toenailed brad nails through the X into the stretcher.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Add the angle brackets to the upper and lower edges, if desired.
Attach the casters according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Home / Uncat
I made a cute little valentine for my Monster Mash Boy. Simple and Inexpensive, the very best kind of craft, no? When I showed it to him, he was irritated with me for having used his special sticky note paper. The stuff he likes to use for clues to the treasure hunt he is constantly staging around the house. Oh well. I can see his point. Still, it's cute for a short bit and doesn't have an expiration date of the impending heart shaped holiday… nope it can stay for as long as he will leave it. I'm guessing 48 hours tops…
What about you? Any quick and simple valentine decor around your homes? Or perhaps VDay decor that doesn't need to come down when the holiday comes to a close?
Psst… I would love your support and a vote in the final round of The Homies…. Homie! Pretty Pretty Please… it means a lot to this little bloggy poo! It you don't already have an account at Apartment Therapy you will need to register but it only takes like 3 seconds and you can immediately pop over to the voting page (Best Home Project & DIY Blog) and click The Design Confidential. Seriously it's so easy and fast and means so very very much to us and the success of this site. Pretty Please
Plans
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- One half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- Screws to go through the bracket into the component – length will vary
- One set of 16” drawer slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 31” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 17-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 27” – Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Drawer Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 28-1/2” – Drawer Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom edges of the side pieces. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and the back.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the drawer front. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Cut the pieces for the sides, bottom, and back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. The box will be placed on the shelving brackets then secured with screws through the bracket into the box.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Home
This is happening….. yahoo! Someone is getting a room makeover and I'll give you a clue: his name starts with Monster and ends with Mash! The last update I gave you all for this space still included his Low Loft Bunk, and was back when his room was being updated with his new Industrial Cart Bed which you can see below. Needless to say he was sad to see those go. BUT on the brightside, both those items are getting a whole new purpose in life and one will be in an entirely new location and I can't wait to share all the deets with you guys!
There are quite a few projects yet to be done in here, but it will likely take me 2 years to finish things so I will give you a list of the resources you see here so far… Some are built and some are made.
Source List:
Home
I post these images as if they were actually from this week, but in fact, as many of you know, I am ages behind on everything I do… #newbornbabymamadrama… But I did get a new pair of specs… and this mama can see again, yahoo! Cute right? Super helpful when using power tools… duh! If you follow along with me on instagram you may have already seen these bad boys.. but if not, then hoodyhoo something new…
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Offset Bench
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×8 at 8’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- One set of 14” drawer slides
- Drawer pull
- 4” foam
- Upholstery batting
- Upholstery fabric
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 13-1/4” – Left Legs (Shorter)
- 3 – 1×2 at 12”- Left & Right Frames, Right Slide Support
- 1 – 1×3 at 12” – Left Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 17-1/4” – Right Legs (Longer)
- 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 12” – Right Frame
- 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 46-3/4” – Upper Back Stretcher
- 1 – 1×2 at 46-3/4” – Lower Back Stretcher
- 1 – 1×3 at 46-3/4” – Front Apron
- 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 14-1/4” – Bench Divider
- 1 – 1×2 at 13-1/4” – Seat Support
- 2 – 1×3 at 13-1/2” – Seat Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 17-1/4” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 32-1/2” – Seat
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 13-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 13-1/4” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 14” – Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 14-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the left (shorter) side. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the right (taller) side. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the slide support. Attach to the right side frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the back stretchers. Cut the notch in the upper stretcher as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces and position on the legs as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the front stretcher. Cut the notch in the stretcher as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and position on the legs as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the divider. Cut the notch using a jigsaw or bandsaw, then drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the front and back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the seat supports. The 1×2 support will be positioned on the divider as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holescrews.
Position the 1×3 supports and secure in the same manner.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the divider, back, and right side frame.
Cut the piece for the seat. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports, back, front, and left side frame.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8″ on each side. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 9
Create the box cushion for the seat. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
Even the most design obsessed folks, like myself, can have that ‘aha’ moment where we realize that perhaps the reason we are struggling to find our next design style of the moment (yes… moment…because they are fleeting for some of us) is because we are weighed down by accumulations of our former design selves… or worse yet… other peoples design hand me downs. Gah!
Believe me this happens… and before you know it that ‘design skin’ becomes hard to shed because those items are filling a void. That space might sit empty if it weren’t for those things… and then it becomes hard to see around this stuff and visualize something more fitting to you and your personality. And then you have lost your true design north….
In the next few months I am going to begin two major projects: 1. The Great Purge and 2. Finding My True Design North. Perhaps we can give it a Hollywood name like ” Pursign” or “Desurge”, you know kinda like “Bennifer” or “Brangelina”. I feel like these projects go hand in hand and one can’t really be done without the other so I might as well dive in head first and hope it’s not the shallow end.
If you need to experience either of these ‘awakenings’ in your own homes, follow along and let’s support each other throughout the journey. I will be sharing the tips and tricks that help and the failings I experience along the way, for paring down and redesigning my life to reflect my more true self.
Month 1: Clean The Slate
- The first step in my personal program will be to literally clean the slate. This means cleaning out and clearing off every surface in my home and essentially wiping my design slate clean. This should allow me the ability to start from scratch, visually, and clear the mental and literal clutter. No accessories or knick knacks laying about. Get them out!
- I love Apartment Therapy’s January Cure and so this is perhaps my self imposed and more complicated version of that. One of my favorite tasks on that 12 step program (I don’t actually know how many steps it is, but you get the point) is to create an Outbox. This is precisely how I will handle items along the way that obviously donation items or junk. All the questionable items that are removed throughout this process will sit in decor purgatory until I have decided if they can be lived without or if they are needed after all.
Image and fabulous tutorial for delicious looking constellation cookies found here
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ava End Table. A stylish and affordable build with fabulous lines!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/2” screws
- One 16-3/8” x 26-1/2” piece of Plexiglas
- Clear rubber bumpers (to place the glass on the frame)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 9-3/8” – Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 22-1/2” – Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 19-1/2” – Stretcher
- 4 – 1×3 at 26-1/4” – X
- 4 – 1×3 at 12-1/2” – X
- 4 – 1×3 at 12-11/16” – X
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the Xs. Cut the angles as shown – they are NOT 45 deg angles! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as shown. Assemble the Xs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws maintaining the dimensions as shown. Attach two X assemblies to each other (with the pocket holes facing in) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the center of each X assembly using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the frame on the X assemblies with the pocket holes facing down and secure using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk screws.
Step 4
Position the rubber bumpers on the frame and set the Plexiglass on top.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
