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DIY / Home
I hope you all had a fabulous Halloween eve and your kiddos stuffed their faces with behavior corrupting candy treats! I'm still reveling in sheer splendor over the amount of candy my boy dragged home! This little mama is proud, to say the least! He is a boy after my own heart, and loves his candy. Thank goodness he still shares…
So much has happened in the last couple of weeks (months really, but I live in a time warp) and I have a backlog of posts to share with you guys about it all! But let's start with the most profound and shocking… The Bird turned 1! He is my late October birthday boy, so naturally I threw him (me) a huge Halloween themed bash to celebrate this special day (and that I didn't croak him during the first year of his life, high fives to me).
When you are expecting a rather high guest count, cost becomes a major factor, and food and drinks generally blow out most of your budget. But decorations are crucial for setting the mood, so let me set the mood for you, and let's chat about some of the easy and budget friendly decor I chose for the party's backdrop. This of course doesn't even begin to cover the food and drink displays, but it certainly set the overall tone for the evening and made things fun. Since the party was an early evening party, I shot these images around the same time of day, so you could see how the shadows play around the room. Just lovely… and not too scary for the kiddos. My little guys still get frightened fairly easily.
I made several simple spooky flower arrangements with cuttings from my yard. I used the post blossom stalks from my canna which have a large dried series of seed pods and dark leaves in shades of purple and burgundy. Perfect to add some color while maintaining a bit of that spooky ambiance and haunted house vibe. I cut each stalk in several pieces, at the point just above each leaf, and casually placed them in a vase. Then I wrapped each of the vases with gauze, giving them a bit of a cutesy mummy look.
Total Cost: $6 for the Gauze
Aside from my glow in the dark pumpkins on display, I draped the ceiling in black streamers. I used a sparse and varied pattern and left some hanging down every several feet and this alone completely set the tone for the party. It's amazing how something so seemingly small can have such a big impact on the feeling of your space. I used 3 rolls of crepe paper streamers at less than $2 each and it was the star of the show.
Total Cost: $6 for the Streamers
I also hung 4 sheets of Haunted Cloth (found at my grocery store, but amazon sells this as well) from my otherwise bare curtain rods to give the whole space that extra bit of old and decrepit that I wanted for the party backdrop.
Total Cost: $8 for Haunted Cloth
Grand Total: $20 for Party Decor
Not bad, eh?
Design / Home
This post is sponsored by Denio's, all adventures, amusements and addictions are 100% my own.
Hi, my name is Rayan, and I'm a quirky vintage portrait addict… **insert eye roll and audible groan from my husband, here**
I just can't quite seem to convince him that these student produced art class assignments (very likely) are in fact super duper cool and that it's perhaps a trend that just hasn't caught on yet. But you see, I was doing gray 7 or 8 years ago like people are doing gray now and he hated that with a capital H too. Guess who recently painted his office gray… yep, that guy. That isn't the only example of this sort of ongoing 'design battle' slash 'ahead of the trend' occurrence we have had, so you see, I have precedent. I'm merely stock piling now, for the coming trend of 'decorating with portrait paintings of complete and utter strangers' trend that won't begin for another 5 years, give or take. Heck I might even pretend they are relatives of mine, in the process. Sounds much cooler that way. Though with this most recent addition I'm not sure he can pass as my great great anything since… well… I'm not the Latin one in this fam, that would be my hubster.
You might remember my other 'portrait', seen here and here. Ever since finding him, I hunt high and low each time I head out to Denio's, in hopes of finding other amazing vintage art. Since this is now my 4th piece of art from these outings, I should think I will continue to be just as lucky in my quest! Yahoo.
To view other articles in this series and browse the other amazing treasures I have found along the way, click here!
This post is sponsored by Denio's, all adventures, amusements and addictions are 100% my own.
Design / Home
This article is sponsored by California Closets, all daydreaming, scheming and organizational musings are 100% my own.
I've become quickly aware that my master bedroom closet needs to be moved up the list of rooms to tackle in my home. It's one of the few rooms in my house that seems to be in constant chaos, right alongside my laundry room. There is clearly a connection between the two.
I find myself browsing through the beautiful custom closets on pinterest and wishing I could magically transport one of them into my own home. I have a decently sized space to work with, and it's virtually bare bones, aside from a few wire shelves, which means I can essentially start with a completely custom closet design and create my space from the ground up. I'm not going lie though… having this essentially blank canvas has made me paralyzed with indecision. Do you guys ever experience this?
1 // 2 There are however, a few things I know without a doubt that I want and need in my space. Take for example my obsession with the 2 spaces seen above… I absolutely adore the retail feel they both have. They give off the vibe of luxury shopping and clothing on display which is bound to make a gal feel like a million bucks, am I right? I'm not sure I would mind putting the laundry away in either of these spaces.
1 // 2 My love for high contrast spaces apparently carries right on over into the closet because the spaces above make me ridiculously happy. I think I might need to coordinate my wardrobe with my decor so that as I display it, everything looks beautiful. Perhaps if I simply pair down my clothing to only black and white items I might actually be able to see the floor in there. Imagine how much time I would save only having to worry about a handful of pieces.
1 // 2 The idea of floor to ceiling storage goodness (not to mention the stacks of orange Hermès boxes) makes my heart sing. A place for everything and everything in it's place, that's how the saying goes… and in these spaces it might actually be true. To have enough shelving and hooks and hangers for every single piece of clothing I own, hardly seems fathomable. Yet I know with some smart decision making and planning it's entirely possible. Even more so if I stick with my black and white idea earlier… it's tempting.
1 // 2 // 3 The mountains of laundry and shoes that live in my closet right now are overwhelming to say the least. So naturally I am drawn to these minimal closet spaces. While a wardrobe of this minute size is not actually possible for me in real life, I can draw inspiration from these spaces above in the way that they incorporate non traditional storage into what might be an otherwise fairly standardized space. Why not hang clothing from thick branches or use wardrobe racks in place of boring closet rods. A combination of custom built-in beauties with a smattering of unusual storage solutions, might be just the thing to make a closet feel unique and give it some style and interest.
1 // 2 // 3 Specialized storage solutions and easy accessibility are the final pieces of the puzzle in a really good closet design. A place to put handbags and tall boots, sunglasses and ties… the unmentionables… these all need a place to live that suits them well or these things will clutter up an otherwise fabulous space. Tall ceilings? A rolling ladder is what you need to reach those top shelves (especially at the mere 5'2″ that I am). Since a space isn't a good space without a bit of pretty and decor, leaving room for accessories and art is a must. I want my closet to be like any other room in my home only organized to the nines. I want the clutter hidden away and the items that aren't so cute, sitting behind closed doors, while the gorgeous things sit on display. It's not too much to ask, is it?
What are your closet 'must-haves'? Are they elaborate and color coded or sparse and calming?
This article is sponsored by California Closets, all daydreaming, scheming and organizational musings are 100% my own.
Showcase
Thanks for the great plans. Wanted to share my completed cabinet – a fun project for me and my husband. Great storage for vinyl sheets and thread (top drawer has a pegboard insert with dowels to hold about 200 large spools). One happy crafter!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tribeca Bookcase. This piece is part of an awesome collection of super duper cool furniture that would make any space both functional and fabulous. The Tribeca Collection includes the Single Case and Double Case so far and we will continue to build on it in the coming weeks! yahoo… Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Brad nailer
- Kreg jig
Lumber
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 – 8’ piece of trim
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 4 – 4” casters
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 50-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 38-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 38-1/2” x 49-1/2” – Back
- 2 – 1×3 at 14-1/4” – Feet
- 1 – 1×3 at 38-1/2” – Stretcher
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 38-1/2” – Shelves
- 1 – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Bin Divider
- 4 – 1×2 at 37” – Front Frame
- 1 – 1×3 at 37” – Front Frame
- 1 – 1×2 at 8” – Front Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 51” – Front Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 42-1/2” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 16” – Bin Bottom
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 12-3/4” – Bin Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 17-1/2” – Bin Front & Back
- Trim for the top cut to fit
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the feet and the upper front stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Secure the feet to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each shorter edge as well as one long edge. Position the shelves as shown, then secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the bin divider. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as shown, then assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Position the frame on the front of the cabinet then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The top of the 1×2 stretchers will line up with the top of the shelves, and the short vertical divider will line up with the drawer divider.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will over hang by 1-1/4”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the bins. Cut the notches in the front and back using a jigsaw. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Position the front and back pieces then fasten in the same manner.
There will be a 1/8” gap at the sides and top of the bins in the openings.
Step 9
Attach the casters to the feet according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Measure the pieces for the trim for the sides of the cabinet. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then cut the front trim piece to fit securing in the same manner.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Entertaining / Home / Uncat
I’m always stuck between a rock and a hard place when it comes to the difficult decision between pretty holiday decor and fun kid centric Halloween decor, or any holiday decor for that matter. For those of you with kids, you know what I mean… it’s definitely a tricky balance. On the one hand I want to see the look on their faces when the excitement takes over, and they get to help decorate for an occasion, but on the other hand there is a very fine line between chic and tacky when it comes to holiday decor, and finding the right side of that line isn’t always easy.
For my one single solitary ‘blogged about’ DIY project for this Halloween, I bring you: The Best of Both Worlds! Pretty white pumpkin decor by day, and glowing jack-o-lantern faces by night. And might I add how easy this project is? Super duper easy. This tutorial is not the first of it’s kind, in fact our good friend Martha has a similar project, but… the differences between the two are vast, like the ocean my friends.. like the ocean…
The first major diff is that these babies aren’t in jack-o-lantern face mode all day. Their faces are hidden during the day. The second major diff is simply in the product used to create the glow. I chose an easy spray can of glow in the dark paint from Rust-oleum rather than glow in the dark powder, which to me seemed tricky and perhaps a bit messy (read… super messy and easy to get everywhere, not to mention easy to screw up). Also the glow in the dark paint works by absorbing the light during the day so that it glows at night or in the dark. The powder, to my understanding, requires a black light to work, which again sounds like one extra thing to deal with.
So let’s get started so you can see for yourselves just how easy and fast this project is!
Here are the supplies you will need:
- Pumpkins – real or fake
- White Paint or Spray Paint – if your pumpkins are another color than white (though this would work with colored pumpkins too, completely your choice)
- Painter’s Tape – low stick
- Pencil
- Scissors
- Rust-oleum Glow In The Dark Spray Paint
I used real pumpkins because they were much cheaper than the fake ones and frankly I haven’t yet dug my fall decor out from the pit that is my garage. But, if you have white fake pumpkins or white real pumpkins then this project will be even easier and faster, if that’s possible. If you are like me and your cuties are orange, paint those suckers white with any white house paint or acrylic craft paint. I left my stems unpainted but you can do as you wish for that portion. Just make sure your white is pretty solid and you have nice coverage, this might mean 2 coats of paint…
To create your face, use blue painters tape (or green) and trace the parts onto the tape and then cut out. For larger pumpkin faces, it works best to lay out a couple of overlapping (lay horizontally but stacked on top of one another) pieces of tape onto a surface and then trace and cut. This gives you a wider surface area to make things like your mouth piece.
Behold…our crying baby, as my monster mash kindergartner lovingly calls this little fellow above.
Once all of your pumpkin faces are in place, you are ready to spray these mothers down! Again, this step is far easier than a powder application or even a small craft bottle of glowy paint. All you need to do is lightly spray at least 2 coats over the entire surface, to ensure even coverage, and let it dry. Peel your painters tape off carfeully and let your pumpkins absorb the light during the day for a glowing fun time once night falls!
A shot of the pumpkins at night, in the light… you can see how subtle the faces are in full bright light and they are even more subtle in daylight, which is perfect for satisfying your inner decor freak. And as the darkness sets… let the scary begin!
Showcase
Thank you for your plans! I changed them to meet my needs, but you gave me the basics I needed to complete the project.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Wood Curio Case! The perfect display case for all of your pretties! Can’t wait to see what you put in yours! Xx…Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 – ½” plywood at 16” x 27” – Bottom
- 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 16” – Sides
- 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 28” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 27” – Long Dividers
- 4 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 16” – Short Dividers
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the top and bottom. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Insert the pieces into the box as shown, then secure using 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the dividers.
Mark the position of the handles and drill holes big enough for the rope to pass through. Knot the rope on the inside.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a La Jolla Sideboard! This project was a reader suggestion, but little did they know we actually had this on our radar already and so of course jumped at the chance to move it to the front of the line! Afterall, we love a good reader project request! Don’t forget you too can request projects in the project request section of our forum! Not to mention you can ask questions or share your latest projects and ideas! We love to know what you are up to and what you are all about! Yahoo! Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×4 at 4’
- 1 half sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1 sheet of ½” plywood
- 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- ½” brad nails
- 1” brad nails
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding, optional
- 6 sets of European concealed hinges
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 33-3/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 79-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 33” x 79-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 33” – Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 81” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 26” – Shelves
- 8 – 2×4 at 5” – Feet
- 6 – ½” plywood at 13-3/16” x 32-3/4” – Door Base
- Strips of ¼” plywood at 2-1/2” wide – Herringbone Pattern
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 12-13/16” x 32-3/4” – Doors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece, as well as the top end of the side pieces. Secure the Bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends, as well as one long edge. Position in the cabinet as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. Position on the cabinet with the front overlapping by ¾” then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position inside the cabinet locating the shelves ¾” back from the front edge, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the feet. The front feet will extend past the front edge of the bottom ¾” while the back feet will be flush with the back edge of the cabinet. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 7
Cut the base pieces for the doors from the ½” plywood and from the ¾” plywood. Secure the ½” plywood to the ¾” plywood with one long edge and both short edges flush (the ½” plywood will overhang one end by 3/8”) using glue and 1” brad nails.
Cut 2-1/2” wide strips from the ¼” plywood. Position the first strip at the upper inside corner of the door base setting it at a 45 degree angle. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. If the strips are cut a little longer than the door, they can be cut flush to the base using a router and a straight flush-cutting router bit. Repeat for all of the door fronts noting that there will be three right doors, and three left doors.
Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. The ¾” portion of the door base will fit inside the opening with a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. The 3/8” portion with the herringbone pattern will sit on top of the sides and dividers, overlapping by 1/4”. After installing the hinges, make any necessary adjustments.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Shopping
I’m feeling black and white this week with my 5 favorite things! One of my 8 zillion mottos for home decor is that every space needs a little black and white… unless of course you are going for a mood thing, in which case perhaps it doesn’t help at all. So maybe I need to rethink my motto… I can’t say for certain but I can say how much I adore all of the items this week and would love to have them in my own home. In fact, I just might be working on that behind the scenes here… you shall just have to wait and see!
This black and white horse photo is divine. Absolutely moody and bold in all the best ways… The quirky couple make such a nice pairing and would be fabulous in any room that could use a bit of greenery with it’s whimsy. One of these simple side tables with the fabulous wood grain design would be lovely in several of my rooms and of course the Bertoia inspired chairs are to die for, no? I think by now we have established that I like anything with an organic and not so structured form so these planter bags are sheer perfection in my eyes. So modern and chic. A great take on something that isn’t always easy to find in a great looking style.
For other articles in this series, visit Friday I’m In Love
Plans
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg jig
Lumber
For each cubby:
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
For each drawer:
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood (3 drawers can be constructed from one full sheet of ¾’ plywood)
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Edge banding, optional
- 4 – 4” casters
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
For each cubby:
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 40” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 15” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 38-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14-1/4” – Divider
For each box:
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 17-1/8” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 13” – Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 18-5/8” – Front & Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
For the cubby:
Cut the pieces for the top, bottom, and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Insert into the box frame then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the divider. Insert the pieces into the box as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
For the boxes:
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the side pieces. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the front and back. Cut the notch using a jigsaw then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawer to help it slide smoothly in the opening.
If building multiple cubbies, stack and secure them with countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach casters according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I’m finally back from Italy (what a beautiful country…and excellent food!) and I finished the Dumont buffet for my daughter (4 coats of paint outside and none inside which I think gives a special look when the doors are opened). I shared pictures of it earlier in it's unfinished state here. I reinforced the base because it was too shaky, given the weight it has to sustain (2 sheets of Russian plywood). I looked a different solutions and I finally opted to “double” each portion of the base, from the inside, with 1’’ birch and it is now solid enough, believe me.
