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Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Juliette Twin Bed. Plans by special reader request and modified for ease of building for all of you! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 7 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 1×6 at 8’
- 3 – 1×8 at 8’
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws Bed hardware ( like this )
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 15-3/4” – Footboard Legs
- 1 – 1×8 at 39” – Footboard
- 2 – 2×2 at 38-1/4” – Headboard Legs
- 1 – 1×3 at 39” – Headboard
- 5 – 1×8 at 39” – Headboard
- 2 – 1×6 at 75” – Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 72-3/4” – Slat Support
- 14 – 1×3 at 40-1/2” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the footboard and the legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×8 piece. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the footboard will be flush with the back face of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the headboard and legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of three of the 1×8 pieces, each end of the 1×3 piece, and one long end of four of the 1×8 pieces. Assemble the 1×8 pieces to create a large panel positioning the two pieces without pocket holes at each end at the top (the ends will be cut away). To create the decorative arc at the top, use a large sheet of kraft paper measuring 15” wide x 39” long and fold it in half lengthwise. Start at the top of the fold and draw a curvy line to the opposite corner (here is where you can get really creative!!). Use scissors to cut along the line then unfold the paper. This will be the template for the upper portion of the headboard. Position the paper on the headboard panel and trace around the curve with a pencil. Cut out with a jigsaw.
Attach the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the 1×3 in the same manner as shown.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat supports. Position the slat supports so that the bottom is flush with the bottom of the sides, and locate the pieces approximately 1-1/4” from each edge. Secure the supports to the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Install the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them on the supports, evenly spaced, and fasten in place using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue!!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Anderson Dresser. I love any plan that has the potential to be a 2 toned finish and I love a good small dresser as a nightstand. A great way to add that extra bit of height to a piece next to the bed and double up on functionality while you are at it. A slightly higher nightstand feels luxurious somehow and makes your sleeping space feel more grand. Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding, optional
- 3 sets of 14” drawer slides
- 3 drawer pulls, optional
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 34-3/4” – Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 15” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 28-1/2” – Side Panels
- 6 – 1×2 at 33” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 28-1/2” x 33” – Back Panel
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 33” – Upper Wider Stretcher
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 33” – Lower Wider Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 36” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 30-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 6 – 1×6 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 6 – 1×6 at 32” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 7” x 32-3/4” –Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower 1×2 will be positioned on end. Secure the entire side assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower 1×2 will be positioned on end. Secure the back assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the 1×2 stretchers. The upper stretcher will be positioned so that the outside face is flush with the outside face of the legs. The center stretchers will be located ¾” back from the outside face of the legs. The lower stretcher will be positioned on end and located ¾” back from the outside face of the legs. Secure the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the wider stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. The top of the upper stretcher will be flush with the top of the 1×2. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then fasten the top edge of the wider stretcher to the 1×2 stretcher using 1-1/4” brad nails.
The center wider stretchers will be positioned directly below the center 1×2 stretchers. Secure with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then insert a few brad nails through the top of the 1×2 stretchers into the top of the wider stretchers.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I was in need of a coffee table and loved these plans! Once again, many thanks for the hard work put into creating the plans and a great resource to view them!
Overall the build was very straightforward and the piece turned out extremely solid (I don't think it looks too shabby either!)
There were a few bumps along the way with finishing and one modification I had to make to the plans to accomodate the drawer slides but I'll talk about those in a minute. Thanks for reading!
Here is the back view of the piece. I read in the comments section prior to building about interest in a pull-through drawer design. I thought about doing this and don't think it would have been difficult, but I will say that the 1×6's add a ton of sturdiness to the frame so I'm happy with the direction I went. (P.S. interested in what all you design-y people think I should do for accent pillows in the background…I struggle in that department!)
Top view; I really think the bread boards give it the necessary rustic look. Great design!
Here is the assembled unit prior to finishing. I really liked the character in the pine pieces for the top even without any finish!
Here is the assembled base without the top or drawer slide supports. Notice the vertical pocket holes in the 1×6's pointing towards the top. I drilled these prior to assembly and they were a BIG help with attaching the top during final assembly.
Estimated Cost
Lumber was right at $100, finishing materials another $75-100. Drawer guides, hardware, and some 2 1/2″ pocket screws added another ~ $50. All in all roughly $225-250 is still almost a 70% cost savings.
Length of Time
I became slightly obsessed and had a marathon assembly night, which resulted in assembling most of the thing in one evening. Prior to that however, there was quite a bit of time spent cutting lumber, sanding each piece, and drilling the endless number of pocket holes. All in all the build probably took 15 hours from raw lumber to an assembled piece. The finish took a lot longer from start to …err 'finish' because of drying times and the research we had to do to overcome some issues (see below). I'd say another 10 hours of labor was put into the finish. That estimate is an attempt to include the prep time and cleanup of the spray equipment which makes up the bulk of that time.
Modifications
As I mentioned before, I had to modify the plans to accommodate the drawer slides. The original plans call for 2×2's to be mounted on the inside of the outer 4×4's and on either side of the middle 4×4's. This didn't leave enough width on my piece to mount the drawer slides so I sliced off 1/2″ from each drawer slide support to make the pieces right at 1″ (2×2's are actually 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″). After this modification, the dimensions were perfect!
Lumber Used
I used pine for everything besides the drawer slide supports which were cedar. The only reason for this was that the big box stores had some really nice 2×2's in cedar and I opted for straight lumber. The frame pieces and bottom shelf are all made of FSC certified Premium Pine. I used this for the outdoor Chesapeake Sectional Unit and really liked the results so I went with it again. You can get this from either big box store (blue or orange). The top and legs are made of Number 2 Pine. My dad and I spent a significant amount of time digging through the pallets at the store to find clean pieces and I think it paid off.
Finishing Technique
Ah the finish…as I mentioned up top, this is where we ran into some bumps. Before I start though, huge shout out to my dad who put in a TON of work with the spray equipment and troubleshooting the issues we ran into. Thanks a ton!
The stain is Mohawk Special Walnut and is lacquer based. I brushed this on after assembly with a china bristle brush. I did keep the base and top separate at this step, but if I were to do it again I think I'd pre-stain as many pieces as possible prior to assembly. All the corners and joints made it hard to achieve an even finish. As a matter of fact, I had to sand down the top after putting on the stain for the first time because it dried unevenly…extremely disheartening but worth the extra work to do it over.
Next we utilized a trick we learned from our local paint shop. Because the project used Number 2 Pine and Premium Pine pieces, the wood took the stain very differently. To combat this, we mixed sanding sealer with a bit of stain and lacquer thinner then sprayed the entire piece in varying amounts. This served two purposes; the first was to shade the different wood to even out the finish and the second was to seal in the stain before the next step.
After the first coat of sanding sealer came a coat of Van Dyke Brown Glaze over the entire piece. This was wiped on with old t-shirt rags. We wiped off the excess, let it dry then sprayed the entire piece again with sanding sealer only this time.
After each coat of sanding sealer dried we very lightly sanded with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper and wiped with a clean rag.
Finally, the entire piece was sprayed with lacquer. I think the base received 2 coats and the top 3. After the first coat went on everything looked beautiful. We let it dry overnight and came back the next morning to find a milky white haze had developed over everything. After consulting with our paint shop again, they said high humidity had caused water vapor to be trapped under the lacquer.
Luckily for us they had a solution which revolved around adding a retarding agent to the lacquer and re-coating the piece. The retarding agent causes the lacquer to dry slower and the water vapor to escape. Also, the lacquer was chemically hot enough to melt through the first layer. This plus some light sanding between each coat fixed everything right up! Huge learning experience which is always good!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Campaign Desk. You know I’m not one to shy away from a gorgeous Campaign inspired furniture plan and sure enough this is a fabulous companion piece to a few of our other pieces in the Campaign Collection. An easy build with modern clean lines, and just that extra bit of interest in the details… Xx… Rayan
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 7 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding, optional
- 8 sets of 22” drawer slides
- 9 drawer pulls
- 10 angle brackets (3/4” wide)
- 4 – 3 way mending plates
- 2 – 4 way mending plates
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×3 at 14” – Base
- 4 – 1×3 at 21-1/2” – Base
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 24” – Bottom
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 26-1/4” – Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 26-1/4” – Side Back
- 6 – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 24” – Center Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 24” – Center Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 54” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Bottom
- 2 – 1×6 at 23” – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
- 18 – 1×6 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 8 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 20-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Bottoms
- 16 – 1×6 at 12-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 23-3/4” – Center Drawer Front
- 8 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 13-1/4” – Side Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. Assemble the bases using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the bottoms. Position the pieces so they overhang the bases by ½” on all sides. Secure to the bases using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in one of the shorter edges of each piece. Secure to the bottoms using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the side backs. Drill pocket holes along each longer edge, as well as one shorter edge. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the pieces as shown (orienting the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled) then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center shelf and drill pocket holes along the side edges. Position on each side assembly as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the side assemblies and the shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. . For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.
Step 10
If using the brackets, spray paint them as desired. Secure to the cabinet with ½” screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home / Studio / Travel
Earlier in the month I had the distinct pleasure of attending the Light Your Imagination event by Legrand in NYC. The event was to celebrate the launch of their Adorne collection and celebrate we did indeed! We had an entire day full of fabulous events and I can’t wait to share every juicy detail with you guys. It will probably take me a couple of posts to get through all of the happenings, so hang on to your socks… and let’s start at the beginning shall we?
The other lovelies I attended this event with are the fabulous Jenny of Little Green Notebook, Vicki of The Ace of Space, Kristin of East Sleep Breathe Interior Design, and Jill of One Good Thing By Jillee. I absolutely adored getting to know these ladies. You will see some pictures of us down below and in my follow up to this post, that covers the nightlife fun we enjoyed!
The Venue // The location was directly across from our swanky hotel (more on that later) and had a fabulous full wall of windows on the front. Inside, the space was bright white with exposed concrete beams and a polished concrete floors. A perfect backdrop for an event, especially one that caters to lighting accessories!
Lighting Installations // Three amazing lighting installations set the stage for our event and ultimately represented the intersection between innovation and design… which happened to be precisely what the panel discussion would focus on. An ideal conversation for a gadget and tech lover like myself. A gorgeous display of the Adorne Collection of switches and plates was such a clever way to showcase the product, which is amazing on it’s own, but of course when dangled from a metal arbor of sorts, is just superb.
The Brunch // The food being served on tray was adorable and the presentation even more so. The wait staff offered the bite sized deliciousness on trays decked out with switch plates and individual bites set inside each one. So clever. I have some pictures of this from the cocktail event (more on that later as well). The tables were beautiful and elegant, no detail was spared. There were 5 of us representing the bloggers of the nation, and we were given the amazing honor of sitting front and center. You better believe I was trying my best not to drool on myself while I was ogling Thom Filicia and the other gorgeous presenters (seriously all beautiful… funny coincidence? I couldn’t say…).
The Discussion // The panel was prestigious to say the least. In order of their seating below we were lucky enough to have:
Our Moderator: Suzan Globus, FASID, LEED AP ID+C, NJCID Chair, past president of ASID, and principal of Globus Design Associates.
Phillip Prestigomo, Director of Industrial Design for Legrand.
Suzan Tilloston, Founder of Tillotson Design Associates, and an award winning Lighting Design Expert.
Marc Kushner, AIA: co-Founder and Ceo of Architizer.com and partner at HWKN (Hollwich Kushner).
Travis Rotelli, KOHLER Design Center and brand spokesman.
Thom Filicia, Founder and CCO of Thom Filicia, Inc. and formerly of Queer Eye for the Straight Guy and numerous other successful television shows, celebrated author and creative mind behind Thom Filicia Home Collection.
The discussion itself was fabulous and involved the intersection of technology and design. As a designer myself, this is something I have always found to be of the utmost importance. Of course the techie in me wants every space to have state of the art convenience in addition to a beautiful aesthetic, so hearing these people speak on precisely that had me memorized and utterly engaged!
Each of these fine people had a beautiful presentation and showcase of their recent work with an aim to do exactly that… to bridge the gap between innovation and design by utilizing technology in an aesthetically pleasing way. It’s lovely to see that spaces catering to technology or innovative materials and directives don’t all have a futuristic sensibility or look. In fact 2 such spaces we previewed during the panel were in fact very organic and filled with amazing texture and warmth. It’s not all stainless steel and bright lights, but can in fact be something with an honesty of material and natural elements.
The Aftermath // As bloggers we report and share, we document, and of course we idealize the possibilities that surround us… but mostly we do a lot of what you see above. I am doing my best Lois Lane impression, obviously, unfortunately I am fairly certain I look a bit more like Clark Kent than Lois, but whose paying attention anyhow… I had my 15 seconds of fame, posing for pictures with my bff Thom and while I tried to contain my creepiness, I’m not so sure I was successful. You know what they say… once you drool on someone, they love you forever like a brand new Cashmere Pashmina. So obviously the feeling was nothing less than a mutual love fest. Don’t you think?
Stay tuned for more on this event and some amazing shots of my hair (no seriously)… which was nothing short of spectacular!
Plans
The countdown to the holidays has officially begun and chances are some of you are hosting this year. If so, a buffet or sideboard might be just what you need to help the holidays go a bit more smoothly. Perfect for that extra storage you will need, and a lovely place to set all of your side dishes during your feast! Let a little sawdust fly and help alleviate some of that holiday stress! Xx…Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 13 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 4 – 2×4 at 6’
- 2 – 3×3 posts at 6’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 4 – 3×3 posts at 30-1/2” – Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 12-1/2” – Side Frames
- 27 – 1×3 at 23-1/2” – Side & Back Slats
- 4 – 2×4 at 42-1/2” – Front & Back Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 42-1/2” – Bottom & Shelf
- 2 – 2×2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 12-1/2” – Shelf Support
- 1 – 2×2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 42-1/2” – Back Shelf Support
- 1 – 1×2 at 42-1/2” – Front Shelf Support
- 2 – 1×2 at 12-1/2” – Top Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 45-1/2” – Top Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 47-1/2” – Top
- 4 – 1×3 at 23-1/4” – Door Frame
- 6 – 1×3 at 16” – Door Frame
- 14 – 1×3 at 23-1/4” – Door Slats
- 2 – 1×4 at 23-1/4” – Door Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the slats so that the front face is set back ½” from the outside face of the frame. Secure inside the side frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the slats so that the front face is set back ½” from the outside face of the frame. Secure inside the back frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Showcase
This was been one of the most difficult yet the most rewarding pieces that we’ve built yet. We saw the designs on The Design Confidential and instantly fell in love with it. Read my blog post to see some of the issues that we encountered while building it.
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Shopping
I’m about to let the cat about of the bag my friends… I may post all kinds of pretty things here at TDC and I love design all things feminine and gorgeous… but … I’m actually kind of a techie and lover of all things gadget. As in, I can’t get enough and I’m constantly using gadgets or pondering my next gadget takeover. In fact, we are that family. You know the one they joke about or show on tv, each one of us completely plugged into various gadgets by the 2’s and 3’s. Headphones, iPads, phones, laptops, all simultaneously. In my household we have no less than 4 different varieties of tablet, laptops aplenty, and stacks upon stacks of smart phones of every generation both past and present.
Now to be fair, my profession as a blogger does require that I am plugged in 99% of the time and my particular version of blogging with the furniture plans and such does require a hefty level of technological proficiency… but let’s just be real here… I have always been a techie.
So today I am sharing my list of 18 must have items for any other techie’s out there and for those who like to take pictures. These are the items I use daily, absolutely can’t live without, or that I have on my wish list and need to have immediately!
1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6 // 7 // 8 // 9
Second admission: I was an Samsung smart phone lover until I got my iPhone. Now I will not likely ever switch back. As it turns out, I use my phone for 98% of all pictures and video that I take and so naturally I can’t wait to upgrade to the iPhone 5s. Duh… But, for the times I use my real camera, I would love to upgrade to the Nikon D800. It would be dreamy! The instant camera is just fun but also helps with test shots for photo shoots. The printer you see here is the best of the best and a great price. If you use your printer for photos and you want high quality, you need a Canon printer, the end. There are some other comparable print quality options but this one is an all in one with scan and copy and is wireless! A printer must be wireless these days, am I right?
I would love to have this DriSuit for my phone so I can take underwater photos and also so that my phone survives when I drop it in the toilet. Because in all honesty a toilet dropping is much more likely to happen before a trip somewhere with an ocean and some leisure time, but who cares… Now this charger is something I never leave home without. It’s a must! It never fails that I have forgotten to charge my phone before I head out so whenever I’m in the car, it’s no problem. A Bluetooth speaker is a fabulous treat for any of you music lovers out there. That 3D printer is a thing of my dreams. I can’t wait to get my grubby mitts on one of those bad boys!
1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6 // 7 // 8 // 9
I love the iPad mini because it works for a tablet at that size but also an e-reader. The larger version doesn’t, at least not for me because of the size and weight after a bit. Anyone who take pictures using an SD card in their camera needs an eye-fi card. It basically uploads your images via wi-fi so you don’t have to stop and unload your memory card in the middle of a shoot! How lovely is that! I adore my 50 mm lens and it’s such a bargain price too. The perfect lens for those artsy shots with depth of field out of focus! Love that! The portable battery pack is crucial when you are traveling or won’t be near an outlet so you can charge up your gadgets on the fly! Never leave home without it if you can help it! Have you seen this clip on DSLR lens for your iPhone? Amazing. I want, want, want! How about a clip on polarizing lens for your phone while you are at it. Hello gorgeous skies and beautiful shots!
If the full blown lens is a bit too pricey (yes it’s definitely pricey) then perhaps the clip on lens set with one wide angle, one telephoto, a fish eye and a macro… yes please! Of course some amazing noise blocking head phones are just the thing you need on a long flight or when you are traveling with your kids in the car. Or maybe the kids need them… so you don’t have to listen to their kid shows all the way to grandma’s house. This 28-300 lens is next on my list. It’s just wide enough for room shots most of the time, but magnifies for those distance shots with the turn of a dial. A must when you are shooting in a variable setting, or your kids at their soccer games.
Any tech items you can’t live without? I would love to swap ideas with you! Please share in the comments, if you so wish!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Full Sized Bed. We have so many amazing pieces in the Emmerson Collection so far and several more to come! For each of the pieces in this collection, you can stain them in a striped pattern to mimic slats or you can substitute for actual slats of different boards with different amounts of weathering and stain colors. To finish in a striped pattern, I would simply tape off sections in a scattered pattern and stain one color, the once that is dry, tape off another series of sections that mimic boards and stain another slightly different color, then repeat with a third series of sections. It doesn’t have to be precise and will look fabulous regardless. If you prefer to use actual slats, you can simply join the boards together with glue and a Kreg Jig if need be. Can’t wait to see which you choose to do! Xx…Rayan
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink bit for drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- Two sheets of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 4×4 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 15 – 1×3 at 6’
- 2 – 1×4 at 6’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- One set of Bed Rail Brackets
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 4×4 at 44” – Headboard Legs
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 36” x 50” – Headboard Panel
- 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 50” – Headboard/Footboard Top
- 2 – 4×4 at 15-1/2” – Footboard Legs
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 50” – Footboard Panel
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 76” – Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 72” – Slat Supports
- 15 – 1×3 at 55-1/2” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the headboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the footboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat support. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Home
I did it! I actually used my sewing machine and I rocked out 4 amazing window treatment panels that look just gorgeous. And of course by gorgeous I actually mean, not completely crooked, and relatively professional looking… at least from the front!
For those of you who know me in real life or have been with me here at TDC for a while now, you know that power tools are more my speed. Sewing machines… not so much. It’s odd really, but sewing machines freak me out and are such an abstract concept to me. But, several dozen YouTube videos later and no less than one million rethreadings of my needle, bobbin or other various doohickeys (totally technical term), I actually managed to not only work but master that dang thing. Now I should add that my sewing machine is ancient. It was my grandma’s and so to figure out how to use it, I had to track down tutorials on threading and operating ‘vintage’ sewing machines. That made things a bit more tricky, but luckily vintage is IN my friends, and there were definitely great clips showing how to work those crazy mothers.
It’s funny because the best videos I found were actually by a man, which I thought was a lovely turn of the coin. Especially seeing as how here at TDC, we gals are generally talking about all things manly and power toolish.
A little bit of proof right there… And a little tiny snippet of that dinosaur of a sewing machine. I didn’t get fancy in my hemming technique. In fact I seriously kept it simple and didn’t even double it up. I just folded over 1/2″ on all sides, pinned it and ran my line about 1/4″ in.
The amazing folks over at Online Fabric Store so kindly gave me free reign to choose some fabric for this project and I was analysis paralysis there for a bit in trying to choose something that had a pattern, but was still fairly neutral without being boring. You should see their selection, it’s off the chain my fabric loving friends… But it’s the quality of the fabric I chose that’s impressive, and their prices (awesome for sure). The ‘hand’ this fabric has is outstanding. It’s thick-ish, and a bit like twill only not so opaque (light filters through a bit still). In other words, perfect for home decor uses! This is partly why I didn’t bother with a double hem. I really didn’t need to. That was probably a good thing since a double hem is a tad more complicated than a single for this newbie!
Since most fabric comes in widths between 48″ and 54″ I figured it would be just fine to actually cut the fabric right down the middle. Each half would then make a 27″ panel, given that my fabric was 54″ in width, and since these panels are purely decorative and not for the purpose of covering the windows this works well. In fact, I really don’t want them to cover the windows at all if I can help it. I want every drop of natural light I can get. Since my windows in the family room aren’t centered on one side of the room, and there are only 6″ between the window and the wall on one end of the window line, having a smaller drape area is preferable or it will block the light and look odd, especially when compared to the opposite wall, which has a centered window line. Go figure…
After I split the width, hemmed, and hung these beauties I was eager to start another project that requires I actually sew something with the machine. I kinda love that sucker now, is that strange?
I feel like a big girl now that I can work the Singer… Perhaps I should move into the current century at some point and get a machine that is more digital than analog, what do you think?
Not bad, eh? I’m no where near professional yet, but just you wait… I shall conquer the sewing machine just like I did the other tools in my arsenal!
Disclosure: I was provided product for this project, but was in no way told what to write, make, or struggle with at any point, and all ramblings and fingers stabbings are my own.
Showcase
I finished the crib a couple weeks ago now and I love it! Here are a couple pictures of the final product!
DIY / Home
It only took me a couple of months, but I finally got this fabulous vintage light fixture cleaned up and installed. Some of you might remember this piece in it’s ultra vintage condition (seen here), as in extremely dusty and rusty… and in truth it’s still a tad rusty, but that is all part of the charm as far as I’m concerned! She sure did clean up nicely though and with some fabulous small round globe bulbs that are meant for candelabras, it has that perfect retro vibe I was hoping it would! The best part is the $5 price tag it came with along with a little bit of elbow grease and new bulbs, makes the grand total for this light fixture are mere $10 or so.
There are dozens of tutorials and instructions to be found on the web for installing a light fixture or swapping out one light fixture for another, so I will spare you there. Just be sure you consult with an electrician when necessary and turn your power off completely before you begin messing around with electrical. And by completely, I actually do mean completely. Don’t risk it by it by attempting to simply shut down the portion of your house you are working on. Sometimes that isn’t enough… Otherwise, the swap is really pretty simple. Just unscrew and unfasten your current fixture, wrap the new wires with the existing wires in your electrical box above where the fixture lives, reattach and screw in place and you are essentially done. Obviously you should attempt to match up the wires (copper ground with copper ground and white with white) as best you can and wrap the matching pairs in the electrical caps. Sometimes they are all virtually identical so you will have to get a bit Sherlock on your electrical, but hopefully yours is not this way!
Isn’t she fabulous? I just love her… she is a beauty and wouldn’t you know, the mister now likes her too. Of course he hated her at first, but as usual he couldn’t see the vision before the vision was complete. And of course I know this, so I regularly ignore him and go forth anyhow. I always know he will come around once it’s finished and will love whatever it is, just as I thought he would. All is right in the world at least for this one small project. Now for the remaining projects left to be done. Fingers crossed I will be just as successful. It’s certainly not all rainbows and care bears in the world of DIY.
