Another member of the Big Sur Coastal Collection…this one is pretty exciting! Maybe I just have a thing for Buffet Tables or Media Cabinets. If you notice the title of this piece I have created a new furniture type by calling this a Media Buffet, since really it can be either. Inspired by the images below, this is in no way an exact replica and is not in any way affiliated with the unnamed Specialty Retailer Selling the piece as shown in the pictures.
$75-$100
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Saw – Miter Saw or Table Saw with Bevel Capabilities
- Drill
- 2 – 4×4 at 6′
- 3 – 1×3 at 6′
- 1 – 3/4″ Plywood at 4’x8′
- 2 – 2×10 at 6′
- 2 – 1×2 at 8′
- 2 – 1×8 at 10′
- 1 – 3/4″x1/2″ Trim at 6′
- 3″ Screws
- 2″ Screws
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- Hinges for Cabinet Doors
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
- 1 1/2″ Hole Saw if you would like to make an opening in the back for wires and cords.
- 4 – 4×4 at 35″ (Legs)
- 8 – 1×3 at 1 3/4″ (Spacers)
- 4 – 1×3 at 17″ (Frame)
- 2 – 1×3 at 56 1/2″ (Frame)
- 1 – 3/4″ Plywood at 17 3/4″x 58″ (Bottom)
- 1 – 3/4″ Plywood at 16 3/4″ x 29″ (Center Divider)
- 2 – 3/4″ Plywood at 18 1/4″ x 24″ (Inner Walls)
- 1 – 3/4″ Plywood at 29″ x 58″ (Back)
- 2 – 3/4″ Plywood t17 1/4″ x 27 7/8″ (Shelves)
- 2 – 3/4″ Plywood at 11 1/2″ x 30 1/2″ (Side Panels)
- 2 – 2×10 at 65″ (Top)
- 1 – 1×2 at 58″ (Front Trim)
- 2 – 1×2 at 11 1/2″ (Side Trim)
- 8 – 1×2 at 10″ ( Door Supports)
- 8 – 1×8 at 29″ (Cabinet Doors)
- 2 – 3/4″ x 1/2″ Trim at 27 7/8″ (Shelf Trim)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Attach Spacers to Legs: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Build the 3 Sided Frame (2): Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue, then Attach to the Legs: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue. Leave a 3/4″ space from the front edge of the legs and where the Frame sits. There should be a similar space on the backside as well.
Attach the Bottom to the Frame: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue. The bottom should be flush with the back of the back legs, but there will be a 3/4″ space remaining between where the bottom stops and the front edge of the front legs. Then Attach the Center Divider: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue, fasten to the bottom and both frames. Attach the Inner Walls: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue to attach to the Legs.
Attach the Back: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Wood Glue. Attach the Shelves with screws for permanent shelving or you can drill dowel holes for shelving pegs. For permanent fastening (somewhat) use 2″ Screws and attach to the Back and Inner Walls and for attaching to the Center Divider, use your 1 1/4″ Screws at an angle. Attach the side Panels: Use 2″ Crews and Wood Glue to attach to the Spacers.
Cut a 3 1/2″ Square in 2 of the corner for each of your Top Boards as shown below. Attach the Top to the Frame, the Back, Spacers, and Side Panels: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue or Finish Nails to Secure!
Attach the Top to the Frame, the Back, Spacers, and Side Panels: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue. The fewer the screw holes the more professional the top will look, but you will want to add just enough to keep it secure. Keep in mind, the carved out corners will keep it in place a bit. Add the Trim to the Front and Sides: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Wood Glue. You can also use 1 1/4″ Finish Nails if you prefer, but I am suggested the screws to keep you from having to purchase a whole separate item. This is your choice and a matter of preference.
Build the Cabinet Doors (4): Use the trim pieces to hold the boards together along with Wood Glue. If you have a Kreg Jig, this would come in handy and help you attach the boards to each other more easily. Miter Cut the inside edges of each set of doors. Cut at a 45 Degree angle. If you have a router, you can also use that to create an edge that is a bit more decorative and allows for a hand hold grip. I use the miter cute as my process here so that you don’t have to purchase another specialized tool. See the inspiration image below my diagram to show see what I am referring to. Below the image shows 1 set of doors. Do this step for both sets. Hang the doors using any hinge you like that attaches from the inside and will fasten to the Center Divider and the Legs. See the inspiration image above for an example of this, in the bottom right corner.
You can use a 1 1/2″ Hole Saw to create an opening in the back for wires and cords
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
