[carousel-horizontal-posts-content-slider]
Design
I have been thinking quite a bit about the bones of a home and how difficult it can be for a person to strike a balance between style and keeping the design timeless – and at least moderately appealing to the masses – so as not to completely compromise a home’s value. You guys… it is haaaaarrrrrddd. This is of course my least favorite response to anything – because I am a doer and an utter optimist. I come from a place of yes and absolutely anything is possible, in my mind. I believe that most difficult tasks simply require a clever soul with a bit of finesse to find the solution and strike a balance – perhaps this is the art of compromise I refer to? Not sure, but what I am sure of, is that these three powerhouse designers and brilliant bloggers have done precisely this and have managed to create kitchens that are absolutely brimming with style and personality and in the end, will not likely be a detriment to resale value – or at the least – the more extravagant and extreme personal touches can likely be changed with relative ease, to suit the general populous, should they decide to move on from their homes at some point. This is a win – win in my book and I am absolutely smitten with these kitchens.
As a designer, I see hundreds of gorgeous kitchens roll across my desk each week and even more through my obsessive pinterest browsing. You too? Join me over there and we can pin our glorious hearts out together… My visual access to beautiful kitchen designs is officially off the hook, and my voyeuristic design enthusiast self could not be happier. But let us be real for a second, It is not technically that hard to create a beautiful kitchen. The. End. In fact much about design works this way. You see, if you throw enough money at something, and happen to pick some timeless or beautiful fixtures, there is a very good chance your space will end up being moderately fabulous. So this is not an article about how these brilliant design bloggers created fabulous kitchens for meellions of dollars. Nope, because that would be boring. This is about how three gorgeous gals (no seriously… all gorgeous) created amazing and gorgeous spaces that are equal parts well designed and perfectly personal and to their specific taste. You see… creating a kitchen with style – and I mean actual, wonderful, and chic style that is oozing with personality – outside of the choices for surfaces and fixtures, is actually pretty tough to do. It is 100 percent hard to infuse individual and unique style and personality into a fairly standard set of items in a fairly standard set of colors and choices.
Each one of these lovely ladies has done something totally and completely different and totally and completely their own. I am so inspired by their choices and the small details that make these spaces stellar.
Emily has an abundance of white and bright and brassy goodness. So basically she designed this space just for me. The fixtures, hardware and accessories are wondrous and the art, well just stunning. Admittedly she has already changed things up substantially from her Domino shoot and the images you see here (from her site right here) and I cannot wait to see what she has done. I am chomping at the bit my friends… no joke. Brass grout? Oh em gee. A gal after my own heart… gotta love brass. No really… you have to, because I said so? And that baby, oh my squishy lovely manly man of a baby! I could eat him up. And I just might, so she should probably keep him at a safe distance, just sayin… Of course they are the most adorable family and it is just wonderful to see shots of a happy family gathered round an actual working kitchen, with actual food. I know nothing of this, it is quite foreign to me most of the time.
Jenny made some fantastic bold choices in her space that I adore, and is also admittedly nowhere near finished in total, but for now she has rocked out a fun and chic look that works around many of the kitchen’s less than adorable features, so says she. I personally love a good white painted brick, and painting her flooring instead of changing it out entirely… genius, which makes it all the more adorable in my mind. That fabulous neon tray she is sporting in the image you see here, might seem a bit familiar to those of you who follow along with my shenanigans on Instagram and you may remember I have a little something similar in myLiving Room and formerly my Family Room which I still haven’t shown you yet. I guess you could say great minds think alike and all that, but that might be a stretch to put myself in the same tier as any one of these girls, ha! But I sure do love a pop of neon, goes such a long way on the interest train! Her black concrete counters are another of her daring DIY accomplishments and I think it was a wonderful choice here with the cabinetry and painted brick. So bold and glorious.
Lauren rocked this kitchen out. It is stunning and as far as I know, finished! Maybe. So it goes for a designer in their own home… things change often. So I have heard, anyhow. The details and personal touches combining a modern aesthetic with vintage pieces – oh she had my heart at first glance…. Her custom open shelving in that matte black finish, to die for. When you are not blessed with a bay window above your sink with room for an indoor herb garden, a fabulous arrangement of landscape paintings is obviously the next best thing. Except I like it so much it might actually be the best thing. Who needs windows anyhow? Not vampires… or folks with amazing art collections! So it is obviously perfect.
What do you guys think? Are you a fan of personal touches in the kitchen or do you prefer a clean and uncluttered work space? What stylish choices have you been making in the kitchen lately? Inquiring minds want to know! And of course by inquiring minds, I mean me! Let’s chat kitchen decor!
Plans
I love a good chest of drawers, and when those drawers are stylish… well that is simply my fave! We have so many DIY Dresser Plans for you to choose from and of course you can browse our entire Plan Index for coordinating pieces!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Lumber
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at – 4’x8’
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at – 4’x8’
Cut List
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 14-1/2”x33” – Chest Sides
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 14-1/2”x26” – Chest Top and Bottom
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 26”x31-1/2” – Chest Back
- 4 – 2×4 at 5” – Legs
- 10 – 3/4” plywood at 1”x12” – Drawer Guides
- 6 – 1/2” plywood at 11-1/2”x24-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 12 – 1/2” plywood at 4”x11-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 6 – 1/2” plywood at 3-1/2”x24-1/2” – Drawer Backs
- 6 – 1/2” plywood at 5”x25-1/2” – Plain Drawer Fronts
- 6 – 1/2” plywood at 5”x25-1/2” – Bowtie Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the Sides, Top, and Bottom. Apply edge banding to front edges of all pieces, if desired. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top and Bottom pieces. Make sure the pocket holes will face the inside of the Chest. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the Back. Drill pocket screws in each edge of the Back. Attach the back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Chest.
Step 3
Cut out the Legs as shown.
Step 4
Attach Legs to the bottom of the Chest as shown with glue and 1-1/2” wood screws. The Legs should be placed 2” from the edges of the Chest and at a 45-degree angle. Insert the wood screws down through the Chest Bottom into the Legs so that the screws are hidden. Also, make sure that the screws are countersunk so that they do not interfere with the Drawer.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. Insert the wood screws from the inside of the Chest, through the Drawer Guides, into the Chest Sides so that the screws are hidden. The Guides will be 1-1/2” set back from the front of the Chest, and have approximately a 1/4” gap in the back.
Cut the pieces for the Drawer Sides, Bottoms, Backs, and Plain Fronts for all Drawers. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the underside of the Bottoms and on the outside front ends of the Sides. Attach as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.
Step 7
Drill pocket holes in the sides and bottoms of the Drawer Backs. Attach as shown with glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Step 8
For Drawers 1 through 5, attach the Plain Fronts as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Plain Fronts for Drawers 1 through 5 will extend 3/4” above the Sides. The bottoms of the Plain Fronts will extend 1/4” below the Sides.
Step 9
Next, cut out the Bowtie Fronts for Drawers 1 through 6 as shown. Attach to the Plain Fronts of Drawers 1 through 5 with glue and 3/4” brad nails. The Bowtie Fronts will line up exactly with the Plain Fronts.
Step 10
For Drawer 6, attach the Plain Front as shown with glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the Plain Front will be even with the Sides, and the top of the Plain Front will extend 1” above the Sides.
Step 11
Attach the Bowtie Front as shown with glue and 3/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Tip: Paint the fronts and tops of the Plain Drawer Fronts in a darker color to add a really cool effect to this piece.
After sanding, staining, and sealing, you may want to apply a coat of paste wax to the bottoms of the Drawers and tops of the Drawer Guides to help them slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, and then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
DIY
Last week I shared some of my recent styling work (here) and one of the fancy details that many of you noticed from the shoot – and emailed about, which I absolutely love, yahoo – was the DIY Driftwood and Copper Display Shelf Wall Hanger. I had the gorgeous cloud planter in my hot little hands and I wanted to display it in some way that was both fitting and not too distracting from the planter itself. I needed whatever I chose it to be sturdy and substantial enough that I might leave it up for a while, in real life (not just a temporary staged thing for the shoot) and that would allow the cute and small planter to stand on its own. I am fairly confident I nailed it with this one, for no other reason than I adore how it turned out, and while this project is fairly straightforward and easy to figure out, I thought I would share the products I used and the steps for this, which are really more like tips that will help you with each step. Of course this comes from a place of trial and error hindsight so this should be a snap for you to replicate.
MATERIALS //
/ 2 or More – Copper Tube Straps – sized for your particular driftwood, see below
/ 1 – Piece of Driftwood or an interesting Branch
/ 4 or More Drywall Anchors – Depending on the length of your wood and number of securing points, see below
/ Mounting Putty
INSTRUCTIONS //
/ Choose an appropriate piece of driftwood or a branch that is relatively long and has a shape that curves in, in at least two places, which means you need either a very loose U shape or a relatively straight piece that can easily be secured to the wall. If you are wanting to hang something as I have, you will also need an offshoot that is strong enough to act as a hook. If you are using this for jewelry storage or display, you can simply slide your necklaces or bracelets right onto your wood. If you plan to display something that has any weight to it, you will need to make sure your wood is thick enough and strong enough to do so and that will sit against the wall tightly where the copper tube straps are placed.
/ Choose appropriately sized Copper Tube Straps. Mine are a 3/4 inch size, and will only secure my wood at the very ends. I was working with what I had on hand, but it would be ideal to secure your wood about one inch in from either side so there is no risk of your wood twisting in place or falling through. To choose the appropriate size for your tube straps, simply measure the width of your wood in the area you will be securing to the wall and then account for any odd twists or wiggles that your driftwood makes in that area that might cause it to not rest perfectly flat against the wall. So, for example, if your driftwood is 1 1/2 inches thick and there is a jag at one of your securing points that sticks out a quarter of an inch, then you would have an total width (or depth if you prefer) of 1 3/4 inches. But, since this does not have to be precise and in fact you might benefit from going a tad smaller in some cases so there is absolutely no wiggle room, in this instance you might choose a tube strap that is either 1 1/2 inches or precisely 1 3/4 inches if they make them in quarter sizes beyond the 1 inch mark – which I do not know…
/ Secure your driftwood to the wall. Choose a drywall anchor set that is appropriate for the weight you will need to support. You should try to mount things to your wall studs whenever possible and secure in more than two spots for longer and heavier pieces, if possible. Use the copper tube straps as a guide for your drywall anchor placement. and then put the anchor pieces in the wall at your marked points. Then secure using the screws that come with your anchors, through the screw holes in your tube straps and test for stability. If you have any wiggle jiggle whatsoever, using the mounting putty as needed to fill any spaces that are causing this movement. I placed my putty between the wood and the tube strap to ensure there is no wiggle room at all for my driftwood to shift or turn and let my planter come crashing down.
Showcase
I am new to building furniture and I am so very thankful for these plans. Saved me a lot of money.
So I got married in June and was walking through Pottery Barn with her one day when she said how much she loved a certain Pottery Barn Table. The Toscana Table is a beautiful table but no way I was going to spend what they are asking for it. I blurted out that I could build that, mind you I had 0 building experience and had no idea where to even start. So, after Google sleuthing for a few days I came accross this website and these plans. They were absolutely a life savor. I did modify it though. I used 2×6's for the legs instead iof 2×4's. It gave a thicker look and I felt matched the Pottery Barn version more closely. Also, the skirt, instead of have the 2×4's being vertical, I laid them flat. The reasoning behind this is that my fiance is 6'2'' and I am 6'3'', wanted a little more room for our legs. This adjustment also allowed me to extend the table top past the legs a bit more. For the stain I used General Finishes Java Gel Stain. You will not find a better stain for your money. It was so easy to work with and the end result was a beautiful rich color. The top coat I used was Min-Wax High Build Polyurethane. I am very pleased with the results and I am so very thankful for these building plans. I discovered a hobby that I love and can't wait to build something else now.
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Length of Time
2 weekends, about 32 hours
Design / Shopping / Studio
I had the distinct pleasure of working with and styling for some of the amazing Makers from my Great.ly Boutique and the even more distinct pleasure of getting to see, touch, and feel a few of their pieces in real life. I am completely over the moon for these pretties and utterly blown away by the stellar quality of each and every one of them. As a gal who considers herself something of a Maker as well, I am always so excited to see the handmade genius of others come to life. Quite honestly the sheer amount of talent that is currently represented in my Living Room is off the charts at this point. I feel pretty lucky to have the privilege of gazing at these beauties, up close and personal, for the time being… It is quite the treat.
Cloud Planter // Emanate Jilly Cup in Blue // This is My Beetles Poster Print // Handwoven Petel Pillow Black + White // Block Cushion Cover Black
Showcase
Wonderful set of plans. Easy to follow. Easy to modify if you need to, as I did in my case. Results are very pleasing.
Estimated Cost
Eh, about $175, give or take
Length of Time
About 4 Weekends plus a little after work a few nights for sanding and staining.
Modifications
Well, there are a couple….
1. I don’t like that the crossing legs on both the benches and the table were actually cut in half and attached. Therefore, I cut dado cuts into both cross pieces, glued and screwed them together for added stability.
2. My wife is an Italian and likes to have big meals with lots of peeps. Therefore, I modified the plans to push the table and benches to 8ft long rather than the original plan which is 6ft. I used a little flair in the center of the table to add the additional 2ft and break up the long lines that 8ft boards would have created. In doing so, I had to add some additional bracing on the underside to make it a bit more sturdy to support the extra length. But I didn’t have to add a center support leg system.
Finishing Technique
I used the same finish as the builder John because I like the way his photos turned out. I was not disappointed in the least. Two coats of Behr transparent weatherproofing all in one finish. Cedar natural tone
Home / Shopping / Studio
We are well into the week long event for my Joss & Main collaboration and there are still some amazing pieces listed in the lovely sale they curated around my design aesthetic. The sale only runs through Tuesday so if you would like to check it out, you can sign up right here and view all of the great things up for grabs at screaming good prices! There are several sofas priced so low that it is blowing my mind, and it has me thinking I might focus on a replacing my sofa, sooner rather than later… especially since a certain someone had a little party with a permanent marker, to the tune of total destruction, a few weeks back. So there is that to be dealt with, eek.
I have rounded up a few of my favorite things from the sale and curated a couple of mood boards for you fine friends, with two totally different looks about them.
1 // 2 Piece Miki Indoor / Outdoor Lounge Chair + Ottoman Set 2 //Westport Sheepskin Rug 3 // Degaulle Table Lamp 4 // Lumeno Console Table 5 // Brayden Pouf 6 // Sidra Rug in Ivory 7 // Morrison Leather Arm Chair 8 // Gail End Table 9 // Morrison Leather Sofa
Uncat
If you liked the original Nova Sofa, but would love a bit more seating, this Sectional unit is just the ticket! Use the pieces from this collection either indoors or outside and it is equally as wonderful for both, perhaps just styled differently, no? For the coordinating pieces in this collection, check out our Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Sofa, Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Club Chair, Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a NovaEnd Table, and of course the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Coffee Table. You can outfit your entire living space in one short paragraph… yahoo! Xx… Rayan
- 16 – 1×2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 2 – 1×6 at 8’ then rip them into 1×2 strips on the table saw)
- 4 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×8 at 6’
- 1 – 1×10 at 6’
- 4 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 2×6 at 8’
- 1 – 2×8 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ½” plywood
- 4 – 2×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22” – Legs
- 1 – 2×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23-1/2” – Leg
- 1 – 2×6 (ripped to 6” wide) at 14” – Leg
- 1 – 2×2 at 49-1/2” – Back Stretcher
- 6 – 2×2 at 12-1/2” – Support Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 43-1/2” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
- 1 – 2×8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 52-1/2” – Upper Back
- 4 – 2×2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Supports
- 1 – 2×2 at 8” – Inner Side Slat Support
- 1 – ½” plywood at 25-1/2” x 49-1/2” – Seat
- 1 – 2×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22-1/2” – Arm
- 1 – 1×3 at 48-3/4” – Inner Back Slat
- 3 – 1×2 at 50-1/4” – Inner Back Slats
- 1 – 1×3 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slat
- 3 – 1×2 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slats
- 3 – 1×3 at 30” – Side Slats
- 1 – 1×3 at 6” – Side Slat
- 15 – 1×2 at 30” – Side Slats
- 3 – 1×2 at 6” – Side Slats
- 3 – 1×3 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
- 1 – 1×3 at 6” – Front Slat
- 15 – 1×2 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
- 3 – 1×2 at 6” – Front Slats
- 1 – 1×10 (ripped to 7-1/2” wide) at 54” – Back Trim
- 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 31-1/2” – Left Trim
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, the top edge of the legs, and one long edge of the legs. (There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the remaining two back legs and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and the top edge of the support legs, then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front legs, front support legs, and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, and the top edge of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the inner slat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.
Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the arm and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.
Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1×3 slat will be shorter than the 1×2 slats. Position the 1×3 slat between the inner back leg then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1×2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.
Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the trim. The angles on the trim are not pretty round numbers, but we can connect the dots to draw them. For the left side trim, measure 7-1/2” down from the outer top corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle. Likewise for the top trim, measure 6” across from the top left corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle. For these angles to work, the chair needs to be square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
DIY / Featured / Home / Plans / Studio
I am so very excited to share this project with you today! You see, we are still in the warmer months out here in Northern California, but it is finally starting to cool down enough that we can actually enjoy some outdoor time. One of my favorite things to do, ever! So you better believe that when the amazing folks over at Simpson Strong-Tie challenged me to create something using their Workbench/Shelving Hardware Kit, that includes the metal connectors and screws (and fabulous directions for building a workbench or shelving unit), I had to build something that had nothing whatsoever to do with the kit’s initial intention. Naturally… And instead, I built something that can be used outside as easily as it can be used inside and for a variety of purposes and people, because that is how we roll here at TDC, am I right?
So this baby is one part outdoor chaise daybed lounge, one part twin sized bed, and one part indoor or outdoor playhouse! If you are just heading into your nice weather too, you can enjoy this fun house with a canopy over top for shade and lounge away or as an open construction imaginative play space for the kids. But, if you are beginning the descent into normal fall and winter months, this piece is a great way to bring some fun indoors without sacrificing playtime or sleep since there is plenty of room for both!
For mine, I spray painted the hardware in a neon yellow, then gave it a clear protective coat, and I left enough space below the floor to slide the mattress under and out of the way for when my boys want to play. Of course, you can use this space for storage and toys or lower the floor altogether and let the play have free reign. If you would like to build this using the kits, which made this build so ridiculously easy to put together, you can purchase them here and be sure to check out other clever uses for these on their FB page!
Psst… the easy tutorial for the pretend campfire will be coming soon and we now have plans for a toddler sized house bed , a twin sized house bed and a full sized version too that all sit on the floor with a platform base and have a chimney as well as a toddler size bed rail to help keep those little in the bed!
Thank you to Simpson Strong-Tie for sponsoring this project and thank you to all of you for supporting the sponsor that help make content like this possible. You all make my world go round!
- 10 – 1×4 at 8’
- 5 – 2×2 at 8’
- 10 – 2×3 at 8’
- 4 – 2×3 at 42-1/2” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 42-1/2” – Legs
- 2 – 2×3 at 74” – Bottom Sides
- 2 – 2×3 at 37” – Bottom Head and Foot
- 2 – 2×2 at 75” – Outer Slat Supports
- 2 – 2×3 at 75” – Inner Slat Supports
- 20 – 1×4 at 39” – Slats
- 2 – 2×3 at 37” – Top Head and Foot
- 2 – 2×3 at 74” – Top Sides
- 2 – 2×3 at 31” Roof Front Rafters
- 2 – 2×3 at 29 ½” Roof Back Rafters
- 1 – 2×2 at 74” – Roof Ridge Beam
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
* Notes: This bed will be hard to get through doorways once it is completely built. If you plan this for indoor use, you would be well served to build this in sections and then assemble in place. The sections I would build this in are 2 leg unit/sides: this would be a head and foot leg with side rail and there will be 2 of these for this bed, the floor: this would be the head and foot rails, slat supports and slats, and the roof: both pitches and the roof beam. The instructions below direct you to build these sections in this manner, so rather than attaching each section to the hardware as shown, you will build each section, move into place, and then secure each section to the hardware. Yahoo.
Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. Each Leg will be composed of a 2×2 piece and a 2×3 piece. Set your Kreg Jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown at the top of each 2×3 Leg. This will help you secure your roof pieces later. Attach the 2×2 piece to the 2×3 piece with glue and 2” wood screws. Be sure to countersink for the best result.
Cut the pieces for the Bottom Sides. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sides and assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Note that the Bottom Side is attached to the 2×3 portion of the Leg. You will do this two times, once for each side of the project. Take note of the position of the legs here (the 2×3 versus the 2×2). Your second leg unit will mirror this and your pocket hole placement should be facing in toward your 2×2 leg pieces.
Note: The placement of this side rail is a bit subjective and flexible. You can place it higher as shown below if you want store things underneath (like the mattress during play or when not used as bed). If you only plan for one use, feel free to set this piece at 3” up from the bottom.
Attach the connectors as shown by using provided screws. They will slide up and support the side rails and should attach where your side rails meet your leg units.
Note the direction of the connectors below. You will place the empty arm of your connector on the side of your leg unit where your 2×2 sits and away from the side rails themselves.
Cut the pieces for the Bottom Head and Foot Rails and the 2×3 Inner Slat Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Inner Slat Supports. Attach the Slat Supports to the Bottom Head and Foot with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Build your floor: Cut the Slats. Note that the first and last Slat will be ½” shorter on each end – this will allow room for the hardware. Attach the Slats to the Inner Slat Supports as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. The first and last slat will be spaced about 3/16” from the Bottom Head and Foot Rails. The Slats will be spaced between 1/4” from each other.
Cut the 2×2 Outer Slat Supports. Attach the Outer Slats Supports to the Slats as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. (The Slat assembly has been flipped over in this graphic to better show how to line the pieces up.)
Now things are really coming together for this piece! Place the slat assembly on top of the Legs/Bottom Sides/Brackets. Attach with provided connector hardware.
Next, attach the Upper Connectors to the Legs with the provided connector hardware. Note that the top of the connector will sit 1/2” above the top of the Legs.
Cut the pieces for the Upper Sides, Head and Foot. Assemble as shown by “nesting” the pieces into the connectors. Secure wood to the brackets by using the provided connector hardware.
This step will seem a tad tricky, but if you give yourself just a bit of wiggle room in your initial cut for this (2” or so will do it – cut at 33” and 31 ½”), then create your beveled ends and then adjust for length on the top which will be a standard straight cut, you will be just fine!
To create your beveled ends, you will lay your board flat and set against your fence, then tilt your saw blade to a 45⁰ angle. Note that tilt in this context does not mean turn but actually tilt. Your cut angle (the miter) will remain at 0 or 90⁰ depending on how your saw reads.
Make your first bevel cut, then flip the board over to the back side and made a second bevel cut 5/8” from the pointed edge. This will create a flat surface for your pitch to sit and will then carve off enough point to allow it to rest right inside your upper brackets!
The Roof Beam is simply a 2×2 that runs between your two A-Frame Roof Lines. You will connect all pieces as you see above, using the provided connector hardware, however this beam might also benefit from pocket hole screws on either end to secure it to the pitch in a secondary manner. The connector hardware will be plenty strong, but since we are using the hardware in a non-traditional manner here and it isn’t sitting underneath the beam, it never hurts to give your joints a bit of that something extra, just in case your kiddos get monkey bar bound!
To secure your roof section to your legs, fasten in place with those pocket holes you created in the legs early on! You can also secure from the top down into the legs using a countersink bit and 2” Wood Screws if you prefer. Just be sure to do this on the widest portion of leg unit you can so it doesn’t split apart your 2 boards that form those leg units or split your wood.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
Shopping / Studio
It is official and my collaboration with Joss and Main is live! They created such a lovely sale using my spaces as inspiration and crafted a fabulous write-up about The Design Confidential. It is such an honor to partner with them in this way, especially since I shop there often, in real life. You know mama loves a good deal and they a filled to the brim with items drastically marked down and curated into gorgeous sales to help inspire you!
If you would like to check out the sale and the feature you can sign up right here. It is a member only site, but of course they will not abuse your membership information so have no fear. You simply create a password using your email and you are in like Flynn (I think that is how the saying goes?)!
Since they used my family room design as part of the inspiration they drew from, I suppose it is high time I share a little sneak peek of that space with you guys… It is my current fave, but honestly I think I feel this way each and every time I design and style a space. I leave a little part of myself in it, and so naturally it steals my heart a bit!
More to come on that space and a roundup of a few of my faves from the sale! Stay tuned…
Plans
I am so excited to share this simple multi function project plan with you guys! Part Side Table, part Magazine or anything you like storage and sheer gorgeous piece of furniture and easy to build plans! This Magazine Sling Side Table seems like it would blend seamlessly with any style of decor and is something even a non-sewing gal like myself could handle! Get your saw ready and make some sawdust fly on this beauty!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at – 2’x2’
- 4 – 2×2 at 18-1/2” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 15-1/2” – Side Aprons
- 2 – 2×4 at 23-1/2” – Front and Back Aprons
- 1 – 2×4 at 15-1/2” – Top Support
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2”x15-1/2” – Table Top
- 2 – 1/2” plywood at 2”x15-1/2” – Sling Supports
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the Legs and Side Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Side Aprons. Secure Side Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice, once for each side of the Table.
Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Drill pocket screws in each end of the Aprons. Attach the Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Table as shown in the sketch.
Cut the Top Support. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top Support. Attach the Top Support to the Front and Back Aprons as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the same direction as shown in the sketch.
Cut the piece for the Table Top. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill holes on the underside of the Table Top on all sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. The Table Top will sit 1/2” below the Aprons. Make sure that the pocket holes face the ground as shown in the sketch.
Now it’s time to cut the Sling fabric! Cut your fabric as shown. Turn under long edges of the Sling 1/2”, iron, and then turn it under another 1/2” and iron again. Repeat this process with the short edges of the Sling.
To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges.
Cut the pieces for the Sling Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sling Supports. Don’t attach just yet!
Place one of the short ends of the Sling under the Sling Support. Attach the Sling Support with 2-1/2” pocket screws as shown to the Front and Back Aprons. The Sling end should extend 1/2” below the Sling Support. To further avoid the Sling from slipping out of the Sling Support when weighed down with magazines, screw the Sling Support to the adjacent Side Apron with 1-1/4” wood screws.
Repeat the same process for the other Sling Support. Let the Sling hang down into the opening.
Now all you have to do is grab a seat and a magazine… and relax!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts
Design / Shopping
I have been reluctant, to say the least, to even consider the idea of fall as being welcome thing around here. I feel like each time I let go of summer it means a trade-off for the beginning of the hectic holiday season and a new school year and all that comes with that. It will soon mark another year gone by as my boys seem to get older by the second, which makes me sad, since as parents we only get a limited number of years with them anyhow. And, I very much dislike the rain. But… it turns out I dislike severe drought even more, because then I can't afford to use my huge blow up pool to float around in, while I get my sunburn on. Womp Womp.. I told you I was a water baby… it was no lie my friends. The words endless summer sound like a fairy tale that I would love to star in, as long as that doesn't mean 100+ degree temps day in and day out like we have here in the golden hills of Northern California – which happen to be burning to a crisp as we speak, eek!
So I have apparently turned a new leaf and find myself a bit excited for rain and fall weather. I plan to spend as much time as I can soaking in the youth and excitement of my boys, for all of the festivities that happen this time of year. Bring it Mother Nature, this little mama is ready for you… as long as you don't overdo it, mmmkay?
To celebrate or perhaps as a bit of a fall themed rain dance of sorts, I plan to usher in the season by giving my home a bit of a autumn update and I am currently loving on this roundup of items. From fall hued art to soft furry hides, this group of gorgeous decor covers all of my emotional and aesthetic bases for when this cooler weather, and my insane desire to bake, actually take hold! And, since all of these pretties are from Handmade-Artists, I will be supporting small business and my fellow Makers out there – win win – no?
1 // Out of Her Loop VII 2 // Luna B&B Plate 3 // White / Orange Adjustable Light Curtain 4 // Coat Range 5 // Adventure Spoon 6 // Yellow Shibori Tea Towel 7 // Dark Sami Reindeer Hide
