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Showcase
I modified the Design Confidential’s plans to accomodate larger cushions and made a fire table to match. The plans are easy to follow and the Kreg jig made assembly a cinch.
Originally, I planned to use readily available Sunbrella cushions from Lowe’s that were 25″ square and around $90 for the sofas and chair. Unfortunately, they were back ordered so I found a guy on Etsy who custom manufactures cushions near me and only cost a bit more. Overall the dimensions of the sofas are 82″ wide and 32″ deep and 28″ tall. I made the arms a bit taller as I am 6’5″ and wanted the back cushions to have a little more support. The fire table is 50″ by 30″ with a 30″ by 10″ fire pan and burner inside. The burner and pan was purchased on Amazon and I isolated it from the cedar base by using metal L brackets and U-shaped aluminum channels over the L-brackets (U-side down). The burner pan sits on top of the U-channels which are a little over 30″ apart and in the center of the table. The marble is calacatta gold but looks more like carrara. The fire glass is from allfireglass, a retailer on Ebay. The wood was finished with Sikkens Cetol CRD, which is a marine grade finish designed to keep the cedar looking like new without the typical gray-silver weathering that occurs after a couple years.
Studio
I think it's safe to assume that most of you who hang with us here at TDC love yourselves a good furniture and home decor project. I think it's also safe to say that together we are mastering the art of making things from wood and that it's something of our 'go-to' when we build and create – at least this is the case for me. But… there is one element that I tend to be lacking here and where my maker skills tend to lag a bit, and that my friends is a great group of projects made from metal. Sure we churn out the occasional industrial pipe project here and there, and we add hardware to our furniture pieces to elevate those creations… but what if we could take that to the next level? What if we could round out the type of projects we do here and our skill sets to include working with this material in a more up close and personal kind of way? It would absolutely raise the bar for DIY and the possibilities seem endless from where I stand. There would be no furniture piece or accessory left unturned and the world would be our creative oyster… Well, that may be a slight exaggeration with an overdose of 'crazy dreamer thinking' thrown in for good measure. But seriously – wouldn't it be amaze if we could just throw together a metal shelf or whip out a brass planter or two like it was the easiest thing in the world? Yes, yes it would!
1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6
From fine jewelry to fabulous furnishings, I feel pretty positive that there will be nothing out of reach for us in the world of DIY projects if we can just figure out how to add metal to the list of materials we can work with. To make this dream of mine a reality, I have partnered with Bernzomatic and will do my best to earn the title of Torch Bearer as I learn how to master the art of metalwork – and in the process I shall bring you a new DIY creation each and every month. Of course no project is complete without sharing all of the trials and tribulations I encounter along the way, and I guarantee there will be many. I hope you will join me as I learn, test, and torch my way to a whole new medium of creation. Because, I see no reason to stop at wood… do you?
By learning how to solder and braze, decor like you see above becomes completely possible to make with my own two hands. I can't wait to see where this leads and will be carrying the torch with pride alongside a group of creatives from many different professions. There are some foodies, outdoorsmen, and some renovating pros that I will be working alongside, and that is seriously rad. I suppose if the whole metalsmithing gig doesn't work out like I hope, I can learn to make a kick-ass crème brûlée and roast my marshmallows over the best damn campfire this side of the Mississippi! It's always good to have a backup plan, amiright? These things don't usually go as planned… but we shall see!
What say you? Will you embrace some metal based projects? Can we do this? Eek!
Image via // Layout created by Rayan Turner for The Design Confidential
This article was created in partnership with Bernzomatic and there will be many more to follow with my role as a Torch Bearer. Yahoo! Thank you for supporting the brands that help us get crafty and bring new content like this to The Design Confidential. As per the usual, all of this crazy mad rambling, dreaming and scheming are 100% my own.
Build / DIY
I'm excited to share this project with you guys today – and not because it is the first of it's kind – by any means… because it most definitely isn't. Nay, it's because this method for making any sort of project like this is so easy it's stupid. Stupid good – and for you folks who like to play with the big boy tools, this is definitely worth sharing. So I dedicate this fine finishing technique and project to my gal pal Kristin and hereby deem her as the creator of this method and an all around sweetheart too! So yahoo…
If you follow blogs or hang on Pinterest (duh, that would pretty much be all of us), you may have seen a couple of these amaze projects roll through your feed (this one and this one). Her latest version of this organic finishing touch was featured on Domino and is a big focal point in such a fabulous space. Teenage boy, shmeenage boy… let me in there!
So good, right? When it came time to create some surface space in the photography studio (you can see the design plan for that space here) and a few shelves in my home office, I knew this was the perfect thing and would balance out the stark industrial feel of the other elements in both spaces. No space is complete without a healthy dose of texture and a bit of something organic feeling, to breath a bit of life into it.
You can see this technique in play in the image above and it provides an added level of interest where function is necessary and I love when that happens! So let's get this show on the road so you can see exactly how easy this is, along with a few extra tips and tricks for doing this successfully!
MATERIALS //
- Wood – 1×12 or any dimensional lumber you prefer, I used Poplar (my fave) – Something with a gorgeous grain pattern will work best and if you can use a real board rather than joined boards or plywood you will have greater success in making this look realistic.
- Jig Saw
- Sander
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies – I recommend a Paste Wax to leave things natural and protect
- Brackets – if making a shelf – The smaller sizes in 6″x8″ or 5″x6″ are more ideal if you plan to get creative with your curve.
There are essentially only 3 components involved in creating a live edge finish – so simple! You will basically be creating the shape, cutting the curve, and sanding it smooth and you are done. Rather than reiterating Kristin's instructions, I am going to give you some helpful tips below for each of these steps.
CREATING THE SHAPE //
You will start by sketching out the shape of your live edge. If your wood is amazing, you can choose a grain line and go with it. However, if you want to give it more interest than it happens to have, you can create your own grain line like I did above, and I promise as long as you keep your cool, it won't look odd. Just be sure to give your line a realistic curve throughout and keep things irregular. Too much same, same is not so good, good and it will end up looking contrived.
Finishing off the edges is just as important as the straightaway portion of your live edge. If you continue with your curves right up until the edge, and then stop, it will look less realistic. Once you know the length your board should be for your project, find a clever and interesting way to finish it off on the ends. I would suggest an asymmetrical shape that curves in more on one side than the other so it mimics real wood that is drifted and has been out in the ocean or the elements for some time just as the real deal might be found in nature.
Don't be afraid to get creative. Maybe an extreme indentation or curve won't work for your particular project… so consider a cutaway section and channel your inner whale watcher (doesn't this portion above look like a whale's mouth!).
CUTTING THE CURVE //
Once you have your perfect shape with asymmetry and perhaps a cutaway or two, you are going to whip out your jig saw and start cutting.
** It will save you so much time if you have a jig saw with an adjustable cutting angle blade like this one (my fave and really inexpensive) then you can alternate your cutting angle throughout so that some of your curves cut and angle inward and some of your curves angle out like you see above.
SANDING IT SMOOTH //
After your edge is live and your project looks amazing, you need to sand those edges smooth to finish it off and complete the look. Since you used a jig saw and altered your cutting angle throughout, you can get away with using a finish sander or any sander that you already have to smooth out your curves and create a rounded look for your edges. This should be a relatively quick process, unlike much of the sanding we have to do when we work with wood and is easiest to do if you start with a medium grit paper of around 100-150 and then you can follow that up with something closer to 220 and above to refine things.
Just as you did with your jig saw, be sure to angle your sander as you go along to get that weathered realistic look you are going for! For tricky spaces and tight corners it helps to fold a small piece of your sandpaper in half with the grit facing outward, then run it through your tight space by hand. It will sand both sides of a tight angle for you and truly smooth and finish every portion of your live edge.
That is it, so super simple and totally gorgeous. Leave it natural or give it a nice paste wax protective finish and call this baby done!
DIY / Studio
I have such a fabulous treat for you today! This project is an incredibly easy DIY for stylish entertaining and at the end, we will have ourselves a little Giveaway, yahoo! For those of you who are into gadgets and tech, the tool I used for this project is going to be a game changer. For those of you who don't feel quite so technically inclined, the 3Doodler 2.0 is as easy to use as any other writing instrument and you will be drawing your way to 3 Dimensional fun in no time! If you have ever been curious about 3D printers, this 3D printing pen is a much more affordable and easy to use option and you can create dimensional figures or objects with the simple push of a button. 5 minutes into using this pen, I was running through all of the possibilities at 90 miles an hour. If you have no idea what any of this means… this video gives a fabulous overview of what this tool actually does – and how!
I have been working on my dining room here at Casa de TDC, and with the addition of a new vintage table that is made of wood, coasters are something that have been on my mind. I tend to prefer a casual entertaining style so a monstera leaf shaped coaster is the perfect chic thing for summertime events or family game night.
To make your own, you will need…
Materials //
3Doodler 2.0 3D Printing Pen
3Doodler Filament Strands
Monstera Leaf Template
Print out the template on a standard 8.5×11″ sheet of paper. Follow the directions that come with your 3Doodler for loading the strands and turning the tool on at the proper temperature (hi or low) for the type of filament you are using. Push your slow button and extrude your material along the lines of your template. Once you have a relatively thick border outlined, you can begin filling it in with skinny lines running at an angle or in a more solid style if you prefer. Once it hardens in just a few seconds, pull your coaster off your paper carefully and scatter them about! That is it, so fast and super easy.
So would you like to win one of these incredibly fabulous tools? Yahoo… Details down below
GIVEAWAY // 3Doodler 2.0 Printing Pen
To Enter // Leave a Comment on this post down below (you can sign in as a guest without creating a login) or on this Instagram Post (or both – for 2 enteries) and tell me what you would be most excited to create with this 3D Printing Pen
Winner // Will be drawn at random from the list of comments on this article.
Details // This giveaway is open to US residents only, must be 18 or older to win. This giveaway will run through 11:59 PM PST, Wednesday June 22, 2015 and announced the following morning. The winner will be contacted via email so please be sure to use an email address you regularly check when you enter your info in the comment form (you don't need to leave your email address in the comment portion itself). If the winner does not respond within 2 days of being contacted, another winner will be chosen.
Good Luck, and I can't wait to see… #WhatWillYouCreate?
This project and giveaway created in partnership with Michaels and 3Doodler2.0. Thank you to the fabulous brands that help bring fresh new content and fun giveaways like this to The Design Confidential!
Plans
You’ve been working so hard lately! It’s time for you to have a luxurious bed that you can flop your tired body into at the end of the day. Check out this King Sized 4 Post Canopy Bed! It’s a simple construction with TONS of character. After you wake up from your restful slumber, we want to see your hard work!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 4 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 13 – 1×4 at 8’
- 9 – 2×4 at 8’
- 12 – 2×8 at 8’
- 4 – 4×4 at 8’
- 4 – 4×4 at 7-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 2×8 at 84” – Side Bases
- 2 – 2×8 at 83” – Head/Foot Bases
- 5 – 2×4 at 85” – Stretchers
- 10 – 2×4 at 3-3/4” – Stretcher Bases
- 2 – 1×3 at 75-1/2” – Cleats
- 2 – 2×8 at 89-3/4” – Side Bed Frames
- 2 – 2×8 at 91” – Head/Foot Bed Frames
- 2 – 1×2 at 91-1/2” – Side Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 92-1/2” – Head/Foot Trim
- 13 – 1×4 at 76-1/2” – Slats
- 4 – 4×4 at 79-1/4” – Posts
- 2 – 2×4 at 84” – Head/Foot Canopy Frames
- 4 – 2×8 at 84” – Headboard Slats
- 2 – 2×4 at 83” – Side Canopy Frames
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the Head/Foot Bases, Side Bases, and Legs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Head/Foot Bases and Side Bases. Next, drill pocket holes in the two outside sides of the top each Leg (the sides that will not make contact with the Bases). Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Stretchers and Stretcher Bases. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in the each end of the Stretchers and in the top end of the Stretcher Bases. Once installed, the top of the Stretchers should be flush with the top of the Bases. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Cleats. Position the Cleats as shown with a 4-3/4” space on each end of the Cleat. The Cleat will be 3/4” above the Stretcher to which it is attached. Assemble as shown with glue and 2” Wood Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Head/Foot Bed Frames and the Side Frames. The ends should be cut at a 45-degree angle. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in the each angled end of the Side Frames. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws.
Place the Bed Frame assembly on top of the Base assembly as shown and attach with glue and 2-1/2” Wood Screws. The Cleats will sit 3/4” below the Bed Frame pieces.
Cut the pieces for Head/Foot Trim and the Side Trim. Each end of the Trim pieces should be cut at a 45-degree angle. Attach to the Frame pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws or Brad Nails.
Cut the pieces for the Slats. Position the Slats as shown, approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the Stretchers with 1-1/4” Wood Screws – you should be fine attaching to the first, middle, and last Stretchers only.
Cut the pieces for the Posts, Headboard Slats, Head/Foot Canopy Frames and Side Canopy Frames. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Canopy Frame pieces. Also, drill pocket holes in two opposite sides of the bottom ends of the Posts. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Headboard Slat pieces as well as along the long sides to attach the Slats together as shown. Assemble with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws.
Assemble the remaining Posts and Canopy Frame pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
Home
It has been a crazy couple of months around here and life shows no signs of slowing anytime soon. With my boys growing at a rapid pace and life slipping by so quickly, I have been trying to focus on making my family moments memorable and taking things at a slower pace. Somehow that never works out like I plan it in my mind, but so far it has been equal parts chaotic and crazy good and we have had a lovely couple of months here at Casa de TDC – despite some major bumps in the road.
I had abdominal surgery in June to repair some of the damage that was done to my muscles from hatching my birds and naturally have had a long recovery time. So that is always exciting. My baby seester and I drove down to San Francisco and took a fabulous calligraphy class at Fullosophie and then spent the rest of the day wandering Union Street. We had a late lunch at Marengo on Union and I had my very first Moscow Mule in the form of a Kentucky Mule… so basically not a Moscow Mule at all… but definitely a fabulous spin-off for sure, yahoo!
I had my first Surgarfina experience! You might remember this place from RHOBH where it was a stop along their scavenger hunt around Beverly Hills. I didn't quite grasp the concept from seeing it on the show, but it is definitely a unique candy experience and if you have never been to one of these Candy Shops, it's a must see if you happen to be nearby. All the sweet treats I bought for my boys barely made it home in one piece and I was kicking myself later for not stocking up on the Salted Caramel and S'mores flavors. Turns out this isn't the kind of candy you want to share, if you know what I mean…
We have had some cooler days here this summer which makes for gorgeous skies and a chance to spend some time outside letting the boys play. It's hard to step out of the house when it's 105 degrees, our yard is in the direct sun and we have very little shade, so we are grateful for the reprieve from the crazy heat we normally have. There were quite a few evening badminton tournaments and lovely afternoons at the pool earlier in the month, and I'm hoping for quite a few more before the summer comes to an end. With all of the travel I have in the next month, I'm not entirely sure there will be relaxing down time to spare before school starts and we are back to the grindstone.
The Mister and I just returned from Monterey, Carmel and Big Sur for a short anniversary trip without the boys, and I can't wait to share all of the gorgeous pictures and fun things we did… This is a place everyone should visit at least once in their lifetime if possible… the beauty is magical and otherworldly!
Plans
The perfect place to display that something special and a super easy build! This pedestal table is a great place to put a gorgeous vase or a long flowing plant, either way I know it will be a great addition to your space… Can’t wait to see!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
For outdoor projects // Teak, Cedar and Redwood are recommended. These are typically more expensive, however this varies by region and of course each region has affordable alternatives that will work well if the previously mentioned ideals are not really an option due to budget. Which specie is best will depend on your regions climate among other things and may vary greatly from region to region. Which is the best choice for your project might be a great question to ask your local lumber supplier and regardless of lumber choice, just be sure to seal, seal, seal to protect from the elements for the greatest possible longevity and least amount of ongoing maintenance.
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 1’x1’, or 2’x2’ if that is the smallest size available ’
- 4 – 2×2 at 26-1/2” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 8-3/4” – Bases
- 4 – 2×2 at 8-3/4” – Aprons
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4” x 11-3/4” – Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the Legs and Bases. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes on both the angled bottom end of the Leg and on the straight end of the Leg. Additionally, drill pocket holes in the straight end of the Base. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws. Complete this step four times.
Arrange the Leg/Base pairs into a “pinwheel” pattern, setting each Leg/Base pair 1-1/2” back from the previous set as shown. Assemble the Leg/Bases with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Aprons. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes on one end of each Apron piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws. Secure the other end (the end without pocket holes) to the adjacent Leg with glue and 2” Wood Screws.
Cut the piece for the Top. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws (through the pocket holes in the Legs).
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
DIY / Home / Studio
This project is brought to you in partnership with Command™ Brand, and is a wonderful addition to my TDC World Headquarters makeover…
Organization is high on my list of priorities as I overhaul my office – naturally. Attempting to keep the chaos at bay requires structure, a crazy amount of functionality, and daily action. But let's face it, those things a person may need to control the clutter and keep it easy to access but hidden from sight are typically not the cutest and if they are… they often cost a small fortune. I have found that I work best in a space that inspires me and where the functional pieces are also pretty so while my collection of handsome notebooks is officially out of control it seems that staying on task often means I need to see more of a visual than can be found on a small written paper. I'm sure you can see where this is heading…
Mood boards, editorial calendars, projects in progress and anything that inspires me at the moment… these things all greatly help me in my day to day productivity and if these can look good while doing their jobs, then all the better. When I saw the collection of Command Decór Damage-Free Wall Tiles, I knew they would be perfect for this area of my office. Since I have the attention span of a squirrel, and tend to be slightly overworked on occasion, when I feel the need I can simply swap out my functional Chalkboard Tiles for pretty Picture Frames or some good looking art. I love the freedom! The best part of these, aside from their benefit and beauty is quite literally how simple they are to put on the wall – without adding another hole that will later have to be filled.
Each tile comes with two Command Brand strips and a Riser. You will simply click one of your two strips in place and once it is firmly locked down you will remove the backing and stick it to your wall.
The riser has a built-in level and between the stick in place capability combined with the level, I don't which feature is better, but I'm glad it has both! In this business, I must hang and rehang so many things, all the time. It's daunting actually, but this was just easy and fast and now I am fairly certain that everything should be made with a built-in level and a sticky strip. Oh how my life would be so much easier!
Securing two tiles took a mere minute – no joke. Projects around here are never this easy so it's lovely to have a virtual day off and just sit back and let the riser do the work for me. Ridiculously I felt spoiled…
I primed my surface with standard chalk and then decided to make things pretty instead of focusing on work like I probably should be, eek!
Layer them, scatter them, arrange and rearrange them – you have the freedom to swap out your art whenever it strikes your fancy. With over 30 designs and sold exclusively at Amazon, they are easy to source and even easier to put on the wall – if that is even possible. Go forth, my friends and give that blank wall an overhaul! Banish the boring for good…
I am proud to be a Command™ Brand sponsored blogger, and as such, I have the opportunity to check out and evaluate 3M products. Naturally, all crazy talk and opinions are my own and additional products used in the project were selected by me. Thank you for supporting the brands that allow me to create fresh new content and fabulous projects for The Design Confidential.
Showcase
We had been wanting a bar cart for a while, but didn't want to spend the money on a nice one. This was our first more complicated project. We had to adjust the plans a bit to fit in our in our teeny tiny rowhouse. Thank you for posting these plans!
Length of Time
This took us a few about two months working off and on.
Modifications
We adjusted the dimensions because of how narrow our house is. We also didn't use a kreg jig, and used brackets and regular wood screws instead.
The most difficult part of the project was finding drawers and wheels. Since we adjusted the size, the openings for our drawers were very nonstandard. We had to end up making our own out of hardware cloth. It was also hard to find reasonably priced wheels. We ended up using Singer sewing machine pulleys from Ebay.
Plans
I’m pretty sure you NEED this dresser… because I need this dresser and 5 more just like it! Check out the really unique handle design on it – and it has TONS of storage to boot! This dresser is a win-win in the looks and function department! What are you waiting for, this long weekend is perfect for letting some sawdust fly!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 4 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’ (You will have some great scraps left over from this!)
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 21” x 60” – Top and Bottom
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 21” x 26-1/2” – Sides
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 26-1/2” x 58-1/2” – Back
- 6 – 1×2 at 16” – Drawer Guides
- 4 – 3/4” plywood at 3-1/4” x 56-3/4” – Small and Large Drawer Backs
- 4 – 3/4” plywood at 17-1/4” x 58-14” – Small and Large Drawer Bottoms
- 8 – 3/4” plywood at 3-1/4” x 17-1/4” – Small and Large Drawer Sides
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 5-5/8” x 58-1/4” – Small Drawer Front
- 3 – 3/4” plywood at 6-3/4” x 58-1/4 “– Large Drawer Front
- 3 – 1×2 at 40” – Large Drawer Handles
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the Top, Bottom, and Sides. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the tops and bottoms of the Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood if desired.
Cut the piece for the Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top, bottom and sides of the Back. Assemble as shown (with pocket holes facing the inside of the Dresser) with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Position as shown with a 2-1/2” space in the front of the Guide and a 1-3/4” space between the back of the Guide and the Dresser Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Small Drawer Back, Sides, Bottom, and Front. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the each end of the Sides, each end of the Back, and in the front edge of the Bottom (facing the ground). Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. Attach the Drawer Bottom to the Sides and Back with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. The Drawer Front will extend above the Drawer Sides by 1” on the top and by 5/8” beyond the Bottom. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood if desired.
Cut the pieces for the Large Drawer Backs, Sides, Bottoms, Fronts, and Handles. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the each end of the Sides, Backs, and in the front edge of the Bottoms (facing the ground). Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. Attach the Drawer Bottom to the Sides and Back with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood if desired.
For two of the Large Drawers – the Drawer Front will extend above the Drawer Sides by 2-3/4” on the top and will be flush with the Bottom. Attach the Handles as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws (insert Wood Screws through the Drawer Front into the Handle).
For the third Large Drawer – the Drawer Front will extend above the Drawer Sides by 2-7/8” on the top and will leave a 1/8” gap up from the Bottom. Attach the Handle as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws (insert Wood Screws through the Drawer Front into the Handle). After painting, staining, or applying a topcoat – apply a coat of paste wax on the bottom of each drawer as well as on the Drawer Guides. This will allow the drawers to slide smoothly.
Step 7
Install the Small Drawer above the top two Drawer Guides in the Dresser. Next, install two Large Drawers (the ones that are flush on the bottom) in the next two spaces. Finally, install the last Large Drawer into the bottom space.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Home / Studio
Things are moving and shaking in the TDC World Headquarters… other wise known as my home office slash the shipping and receiving department slash the craft workshop. This poor space has gone through a lot over the years and for longer than I care to admit has been a bit neglected. This is the year of minimizing and reducing in any and every area of my life and with this site and my work being such a huge part of my everyday, it only seems fitting that the place I call my office gets a bit of a refresh – which is actually more of a major overhaul.
So let's take a walk down memory lane… shall we? The last time this space had any semblance of organization and decency was way back in 2013 when I installed Crown Molding. Take a gander, because the next image you see will terrify you.. though not as much as the before shots of my closet, am I right? Eek!
Ok, I guess it isn't quite as scary as I made it sound, but it's definitely devoid of anything good and was slowly becoming the dumping ground for all of the millions of shipments that roll through these doors. And don't get me started on the craft supplies, parts, and pieces that all inevitably need to be kept for future projects. To say it is overwhelming is the understatement of the year. This image above is of course the 'good side' of this space but I will share the rest of the crazy with you as I work it over, a little at a time! It's becoming desperate…
A bit of an improvement, no? That gorgeous over sized art print from Minted is the crown jewel of this space and with the new extra large size they offer, you can get your faves in a 54″x40″ format and rock out your space in a big, bold way. This beauty, by artist Max Harris, has set the tone for transforming this space into something that inspires me, rather than bringing me down. Let's hope that translates to more productivity and amazing, inspired projects! If there is one thing I have learned about myself it is that I tend to be happier when my surroundings are beautiful and reflect my style. I am glad to bring that stylistic touch to this area and can't wait to finish out the entire space.
Everything aside from the art in this space is either a DIY project, something I already owned, or a recent and wonderful addition to my life and I am excited to share all the projects and details with you – especially as it relates to staying organized in all the crazy that comes along with being a DIY + Design Blogger! Stay tuned… and in the meantime, feel free to gaze with loving adoration at my newly transformed office space and get excited because there is so much more to come.
I am considering moving in, or perhaps setting up a lovely spot for taking a nap in between all of my creative pursuits… hard work makes mama tired and so do those boys of mine.
// The gorgeous print was provided by Minted but naturally all ramblings and thoughts are 100% my own!
Plans
A plant stand that is super stylish and affordable is rare… but not today! Build this gorgeous gal and put your planted beauties up for everyone to see!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
For outdoor projects // Teak, Cedar and Redwood are recommended. These are typically more expensive, however this varies by region and of course each region has affordable alternatives that will work well if the previously mentioned ideals are not really an option due to budget. Which specie is best will depend on your regions climate among other things and may vary greatly from region to region. Which is the best choice for your project might be a great question to ask your local lumber supplier and regardless of lumber choice, just be sure to seal, seal, seal to protect from the elements for the greatest possible longevity and least amount of ongoing maintenance.
- 2 – 1×2 at 8′ (you may only need 1 if the lumber measures slightly more than 96”)
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at – 2’x2’
- 2 – 2×2 at 31-15/16” – Left Large Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 32-1/2” – Right Large Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 10-5/8” – Small Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 24” – Shelf Supports
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 8” x 24” – Shelves
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the Left and Right Large Legs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes on the angled top end of the Left Large Leg. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws. Complete this step twice – once for the front and once for the back of the Plant Stand.
Cut the pieces for the Small Legs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes on the angled bottom end of the Small Leg. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws. Complete this step twice – once for the front and once for the back of the Plant Stand.
Cut the pieces for the Shelf Supports. Place the Shelf Supports as shown and attach with glue and 2” Wood Screws. Please note – TDC highly recommends that you experiment with the placement (shifting to the left and/or right) of the Shelf Support/Shelves so that the Plant Stand is as balanced as possible.
Cut the pieces for the Shelves. Assemble as shown by placing the Shelves on top of the Shelf Supports. Secure with glue and 2” Wood Screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
