The Design Confidential

Free Woodworking Plans to Build an Ann Marie Twin Daybed with Storage

10.12.11

Pretty sure this bed speaks for itself. Just in case it doesn't… think ample storage, designer style, and simplicity of design all make this bed a fabulous solution for any of your kiddo's or perhaps a guest room that needs a bed to double as a sitting area as well. Did I mention it was easy to build? That's right, the most difficult part of this plan will be installing the drawer tracks! Pretty sure you guys are all capable of that, so we should be just fine!

I chose to “paint” this bed one of my favorite colors…we shall call it Grange. Many of you are familiar with greige and I know you love it as much as I do, this is a variation of greige with a bit of green, hence…grange (I am open to other name possibilities)!

This particular plan is meant to be painted, and uses MDF to allow for smooth paint application, however if you prefer a natural look for this bed, you can use premium plywood for the main components or connect dimensional lumber using a Kreg Jig to join each board, and then carve with a jig saw to create the curved sides. Either option would be stunning.

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Showcase: Built From These Plans

An Ann Marie Daybed for Ryan

Tools

Tape Measure

Square

Sander – or a Sanding Block, this will help smooth your edges so the pieces fit flush with each other.

Saw – to cut your pieces to size

Jig Saw – to create the curved sides.

Drill

Nail Gun for Finish Nails or Finish Nail Set and Hammer.

Lumber

6 – Sheets of 3/4″ MDF or 5 sheets and 1 sheet of 3/4″ Ply if cheaper. A sheet is typically 4'x8'.

1 – 1×3 @ 8'

6 – 1×2 @ 8'

5 – 1×2 @ 10'

1 – 1×8 @ 8'

3 – 1×8 @ 10'

Materials

2″ Screws

1 1/4″ Screws

1 1/4″ Finish Nails

Drawer Pulls (3) of your choice ** you may need to replace the screws that come with them for longer screws to ensure you can mount through 2 sheets of MDF (depth).

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Spackle

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

1 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF @ 75 x 40 3/4″ (Back)

2 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF @ 40 1/4 x 40 3/4″ (Sides)

1 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF @ 77 x 18 1/4″ (Front)

2 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF @ 75 1/2 x 10″ (Inner Box front and back)

4 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF @ 38 x 10″ (Sides and Supports for inner box)

2 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF @ 36 x 21″ (Outside Drawer Bottoms)

1 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF @ 36 x 22 1/2″ (Inside Drawer Bottom)

1 – 3/4″ Ply or 3/4″ MDF (whichever is cheaper for you) @ 75 1/2 x 39 1/2″ (Bed Slats, singular)

1 – 1×3 @ 78 1/2″ (Top Trim – Back)

6 – 1×2 @ 38″ (Drawer Slides)

3 – 1×2 @ 75 1/2″ (Bottom Trim – Back and outer trim for Back),

2 – 1×2 @ 78 1/2″ (Top Trim – Front and Bottom Trim Front),

2 – 1×2 @ 41″ (Side Panel Bottom Trim),

4 – 1×2 @ 40 3/4″ (Outside Back Trim and Side Trim),

2 – 1×2 @ 38 3/4″ (Side Panel Trim),

2 – 1×2 @ 21 1/2″ (Interior Back Trim),

4 – 1×2 @ 18 1/4″ (Front Trim and Side Trim),

2 – 1×2 @ 16 3/4″ (Front Trim),

6 – 1×8 @ 36″ (Drawers)

6 – 1×8 @ 22 1/2″ (Outside Drawers)

3 – 1×8 @ 23″ (Inside Drawer)

Instructions

** You have the option to cut 2 – 1.5″ wide strip in the same arc as your sides to add trim to the top of the sides.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Attach the Back to a 1×2 leaving a 3/4″ overhang on what will be the Back Side (outside). Use 2″ Screws and Glue to attach.

Step 2

Carve the arc from the Side panels. Use a jig saw and abide by the required dimensions shown below. Otherwise this arc is subjective and entirely up to you as to how you shape it. Leave 1 1/2″ on the upper inside portion of the side panel and 3/4″ of the lower outside portion of the arc to accommodate trim later. Make sure your outside edge remains at 17 1/2″ to align properly with the front piece and surround the mattress as designed.

Step 3

Attach the Side Panels to the back side. The Back and Side edges should be flush with each other. Attach the bottom trim leaving a 3/4″ overhang on the backside and ensuring the bottom trim of the side panel is flush with the bottom trim of the back panel. Use 2″ Screws and Glue.

Step 4

Begin building the interior box by cutting out the drawer openings to the box fascia

Step 5

Build the remainder of the box using the dimensions shown below. Use 2″ Screws and Glue. Fasten the Drawer Slides in place. Use 2″ Screws and glue through the front and back of the box to secure and place them 4″ apart and roughly 2″ from the midpoint of each opening.

Trim out the interior of the Back and attach the Inner box to the back and side panels. Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Glue to attach the box and 1 1/4″ Finish Nails and glue to attach the trim.

Step 7

Begin constructing your drawers. You will need 2 different sizes of drawers since the outside drawers are 1/2″ narrower than the inside drawer. You will need to construct 2 drawers with the dimensions below.

Fasten the drawer Face from the inside of the drawer front to avoid filling screw holes.

Step 8

Here are the measurements for the inside drawer, follow the steps from above only use these dimensions below.

Step 9

You can lay your plywood bed slat (singular) over the inner box at this point. You are welcome to fasten it to the box, but might want to consider leaving it unattached for removal and easy cleaning below.

Step 10

Cut the Front Panel to size as shown in the dimensions below. Leave a 3/4" Gap at the bottom to allow for the bottom trim in the next step. Fasten from the inside with 1 1/4" Screws and Glue.

Step 11

Trim out the front panel as shown below and attach the bottom trim leaving 3/4″ overhang toward the front to allow for the front trim to sit flush against.

Step 12

Add the top trim to the front and trim out the back, then add the top trim to the back. Use 1 1/4″ Finish nails and Glue.

Step 13

Add the top trim to the front and trim out the back, then add the top trim to the back. Use 1 1/4″ Finish nails and Glue.

Finishing Instructions

**To finish this project well, run your finger along any exposed cut edges of the MDF (this will likely only be your arcs) with a thin layer of Spackle. Once it dries fully, you can sand it flush and finish as desired. Prime first, then paint and make sure to seal with a polyurethane. If you intend to paint a light color, an aerosol lacquer will be more ideal as it is just as durable but does not yellow in time as Poly does.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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My Hopeful Chalkboard up for Auction

10.11.11

I thought I would share a sneak peak of the item I am putting up for auction at the end of the month! Any of you lucky folks can bid on this item during the silent auction bidding period, and it will be shipped to you… right from me!

I am honored to be participating in this event for such an important cause. I think raising awareness for breast cancer is an absolute must, and that at some point, if the powers that be aren’t able to find a cure, this tragedy will touch all of our lives in some form or another.

My husband recently lost a very good friend to this most devastating illness. She was very young, and that’s eye opening. This is not something that happens to ‘other people’, it’s something that can happen to any of us, at any time, and any age, and even for men.

I hope that if you like this handmade item, that I created especially for one of you, that you will consider bidding and know that your shopping efforts are for a good cause!

Handmade and hand painted with real metal hardware as the chalk holder. This would be adorable in any girl’s room or craft space!

Head on over here for the auction details and dates. Get your credit cards ready folks… and be sure to browse all of the other items up for grabs! Some of our fabulous friends are donating goods as well! Yay!

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Retail Therapy with BDDW

10.11.11

There is something about this store that really resonates with me. BDDW is a bit mod and minimal, has a focus on functional beauty, with a dash of industrial thrown into the mix and has sent my little heart a flutter!

Don't get me wrong… it appears that I actually love EVERYTHING! and I truly mean everything I see, all of the time. It's rare when I don't love something in any style or color. French, Shabby, Traditional, Modern, Minimal, Scandinavian, Moroccan… I love it all.

But this is special, and incredibly unique. Their pieces show such amazing craftsmanship with a bit of a sense of humor here and there. Dovetail joints used as stitches for the natural splits in the wood, inlay in unique locations with interesting colors. The drawer pulls and handles are a fabulous bronze line and loop style that I am absolutely smitten with! Swoon!

I love the staging they have done to display their wares… it's just sooooo good!

All Images and Items are from BDDW.

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DIY

DIY So Soft Silhouette Deer Pillow

10.10.11

In case you missed my post here, this is a repost of the full tutorial!

I think it’s only right if I begin this post by stating that this project was full of ‘I won’t do that again’ moments! Do you ever have those days where you aren’t functioning at full mental capacity, and you don’t manage to avoid glaring mistakes that you otherwise might? Sigh… this was that project for me! BUT, it turned out amazingly well, despite user error…over, and over, again!

Materials:

DecoArt So Soft Fine Glitter Fabric Paint

Cotton Muslin – or any fabric of your choosing

Pillow Insert

Stencil or pattern of your choosing!

Stippling brush or firm bristled small paint brush

Let’s get started shall we? I laid my fabric over the top of a piece of foam core to give myself a hard and slightly water resistant surface. Mistake number one: don’t use foam core… it isn’t all that water resistant! eek. That baby dried to the back of my fabric and made a horrid mess. You can see this cute little stencil I was planning on using in the image above along with that green dot resting in the center of it on the fabric. Mistake number two: don’t use Halloween eyeliner to mark your center point… it won’t come off like you think it will. I had the perfect blunt tipped brush for stenciling and my So Soft Fine Glitter and I was ready to begin regardless of that green dot…eek.

Since the paint was of a medium consistency I planned on doing 2 coats to be sure the image would pop and not be too light for it’s purpose. I gently pounced my brush all over the stencil as you can see from the marks in the image above.

After my second coat the image was looking mighty fine… but of course there was that green dot. Ugh. Once you have your image in place, allow the paint to dry for 48 hours and then put it in the wash on a gentle cycle. Be sure to turn your fabric inside out if possible to protect your work. If this will be for a pillow case you will likely want to let the paint dry for 24 hours before you begin to sew your fabric. I would love to give you all the tutorial on making the pillow case, but as it turns out… I’m terrible at it and while it’s sufficient for now, I can only image all of you can school me in the sewing department. So let’s suffice it to say that at this point, you will sew your pillow case properly, then wait the remainder of your 48 hours before turning it inside out and washing gently!

The dot only partially came out during the wash… definitely use a fabric chalk or something erasable to mark your center point. Lesson learned! But this baby is fabulous and it has the slightest bit of shimmer to the color. Not too much that my boys complain but not so little that you don’t’ see it! Perfection! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial of do’s and don’ts! So goes the life of a DIY blogger. Sometimes things work, and other times, they just don’t!

I am linking this project up to Get your Craft on Tuesday

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DIY / Home

Transformers More Than Meets the Eye

10.08.11

When I saw this piece in my local Good Will store, I knew… I just knew. Such promise in this hidden gem. I had originally planned to build myself a desk from the Martha Stewart Craft Collection of pieces we have plans for. But, I got a little ahead of myself and decided to increase the depth of the drawers… Ya, the one thing I didn’t consider was the height of the desk and that by making the drawers deeper I was actually eating away at the leg room. Not going to work if the desk is to be shared by myself and my 6 foot husband. Eek. There isn’t a lot you can do once you have made an error in judgement of this kind other than disassemble and rebuild the desk with new legs or the standard size drawers the original plans call for. Double Eek! With a toddler in the house, and no one but me to watch him during the day, this was a daunting thought. Gah! Originally a Kitchen Island, this piece was your typical metal legged, laminate butcher block veneered, crazy hot mess! But the shape, the adjustable size (with leaf included) and the modern style I could see it having, once it had a teensy makeover, made this the most exciting $15 find EVAH! Can I get a yahoo?

But how do you deal with a laminate surface, you ask? Well it’s very simple… carefully and with the notion that you will without doubt have to touch up or redo a bit of the painted surface at some point. I don’t care what anyone tells you… if they tell you it won’t scratch, or wear irregularly when you paint over laminate…they are wrong, and haven’t done it enough to actually know the truth. It may not be their fault, but the fact of the matter is, painting laminate is tricky biz and while there is quite a bit you can do to ensure that as little goes wrong as possible, just be prepared that it will be a delicate process that will need continued maintenance in the future! That being said, let’s get started on our laminate painting best practices…

1. Use a medium grit paper to scuff your surface. Don’t kill but you need to give it a bit of texture so your paint will adhere better. Don’t skip this step, regardless of what the paint product or primer tell you. This is important and will increase the longevity of your finish.

2. You are going to need to prime, no matter what! For this project I decided to try something new with this Glidden Gripper Primer. It’s supposed to help paint adhere even to plastic surfaces, which would be something akin to laminate I suppose. I chose the gray for colored or dark surfaces simply because I felt like it would be more useful to me to balance out my primer collection with a dark color primer, but the white would have work equally as well for the color I intended to paint the desk.

3. Light application of Primer. I said light, people… and I mean it. Keep it light and thin and you will win! See how I made that rhyme? Genius I tell you. I like to apply it light and thin in one direction, and for a second coat I head in the other direction. I feel personally that this works best. This doesn’t have to be your method, but it’s what I like to do. Just sayin…

4. After 2 good coats of Primer, I follow the same technique with 2 good light and thin coats of paint. Depending on your paint, you may need a third, but it’s not always likely. I chose Flagstone by Martha Stewart for Home Depot in a Semi-Gloss for this project. I am so glad I did, because the color is amazing and absolutely what I saw in my mind’s eye!

5. Apply some sort of seal coat. I chose to use my fave: Wipe On Poly by Minwax. For me this gives the ‘hardest’ finish with the least amount of effort and a very fast cure time. You can see this room has many purposes with this little peak of my treadclimber in here. Along with dog, kid, hubby, and crafting non stop… this room and desk will take a beating, but I’m happy to report that after a decent amount of time in here…things are holding up nicely. I fully expect to refinish the surface at some point. You simply can’t escape it, but that’s fine with me!

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Showcase

A Dittle Dattle Console Table

10.07.11

We are back with the final installment of the Chesapeake Collection by Carrie of Dittle Dattle! She really truly built the most amazing collection of pieces and reminds me of the incredible satisfaction from building and taking the time to sand and finish her pieces well! Her builds are flawless! Just flawless!

To see her other builds, visit here and here!

Built From These Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Chesapeake Console Table

Finishing Technique

SW’s solid deck stain in Lodge Brown

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DIY

Chalkboard Organizers

10.07.11

This fast little project was another that I completed for my office craft space transformation! Under $10, should keep me organized (maybe), and adds a bit of color the area behind my desk. Not to mention, everyone loves a good chalkboard… so yay! I will be sharing at least 5 or 6 other projects for this space throughout the weekend and following week! No office transformation would be complete without a full detailed account of the work that has been done and a complete gallery showcase of the room! Stay tuned for that… it’s gonna be good friends!

You can see how these fun little friends fit into my ‘just about finished’ office craft space transformation… They sit perfectly next to my PB knock off Rustic Ladder

I purchased 2 of these hot pink picture frame 2 packs from IKEA. I think they were around $4 for each pair! Fabulous right?

I removed the back and used the cardboard insert to trace out a shape on medium weight card stock, and painted it with DecoArt Chalkboard Paint.

Place them back in the frame only without the plexi cover so you can write on the chalkboard (duh, I know).

Condition the chalkboard paint by covering the surface with chalk, then erase and you are ready for use!

That’s it…couldn’t be easier! So fun right?

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Design

Kitchens to Die For

10.06.11

I adore my little kitchen, it's absolutely perfect for me right now. But, I don't own this home and so I can't change anything should my heart desire.

I have been dreaming of the things I might do if this place were mine, or if I have someplace else of my own one day…

White cabinetry, pale painted gray, perhaps reclaimed and rustic… glass front cabinets, or open shelving…cozy or expansive and airy, maybe filled with cabinets from floor to ceiling and hundreds of recipe books or minimal and sleek with only the bare necessities visible to the eye…

So many decisions to make in my very much imagined dream kitchen…What would you choose for your dream kitchen?

All of the original sources can be found here, along with a few other inspirational goodies!

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Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Beadboard Snack Bar Console

10.05.11

This is a fun little project and I can only hope that one day I have a house big enough to have this sort of piece! Perfect for a dorm, or a game room, this fun little snack bar console is sure to be a blockbuster hit!

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Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50 – $100 depending on materials

Tools

Tape Measure

Drill

Kreg Jig – optional

Saw – optional

Nail Gun – optional

Lumber

1 sheet of 3/4″ ply at 4'x8'

1/2 sheet of 1/4″ ply at 4'x4' – optional for back

1/2 sheet of 1/2″ ply at 4'x4'

3 – 2×2 at 8'

2 – 1×2 at 6' (if 8' furring strips are cheaper, purchase those)

2 – 1×4 at 8'

8' of 3/4″ x 1/4″ trim

1/2 sheet of beadboard (4'x4')at 1/4″ thickness

Materials

Safety Gear

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

2 1/2″ pocket hole screws OR wood screws

1 1/4″ pocket hole screws OR wood screws

1″ pocket hole screws

5/8″ Finish Nails

2″ Finish Nails

Cut List

1 – 3/4″ Ply at 46 1/2″ x 24 1/2″ Top

1 – 3/4″ ply at 43 1/2″ x 23 1/2″ Bottom

1 – 3/4″ ply at 27 1/4″ x 23 1/2″ Center Divider

2 – 3/4″ Ply at 25 3/4″ x 20 1/2″ Side Panels

2 – 1/2″ ply at 20 1/2″ x 18 7/8″ Tray Bottoms

2 – 1/2″ ply at 19 3/4″ x 18 7/8″ Drawer Bottoms

1 – 1/4″ ply at 43 1/2″ x 28″ Back

1 – 2×2 at 43 1/2″ Front Bottom Rail

4 – 2×2 at 20 1/2″ Side Rails

4 – 2×2 at 30 3/4″ Legs

4 – 1×2 at 20 1/2″ Tray Sides

2 – 1×2 at 21 5/8″ Tray Fronts

2 – 1×4 at 21 5/8″ Drawer Fronts

4 – 1×4 at 20 1/2″ Drawer Sides

2 – 1×4 at 18 7/8″ Drawer Backs

4 – 3/4″ x 1/4″ Trim at 3 1/2″ Drawer Trim

4 – 3/4″ x 1/4″ Trim at 20 1/8″ Drawer Trim

2 – 1/4″ Beadboard Panels at 25 3/4″ x 20 1/2″

Instructions

Step 1

Build the Sides: Attach the Rails to the Side Panels and then to the Legs. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the panels to the legs and rails. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach the rails to the legs.

If you aren't using a KJ, fasten the legs and rails to the panels using 2 1/2″ wood screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.

The Side Panels will sit flush with the inside of the legs and rails.

Step 2

Attach the Center Divider, Bottom, and Rail: Attach the bottom panel to the Lower Side Panel Rails using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue or your 2 1/2″ wood screws. The bottom should sit flush with the top of the rails.

Then Attach the Center Divider to the Bottom Panel using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue, OR using your 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue from underneath.

Tack on your Front Rail using your 2 1/2″ screws and glue or 2″ finish nails and glue.

Step 3

Construct the Trays: The Fronts will have an overhang of 3/4″ on the inside edge (the one that will sit closest to the Center Divider) and 1/2″ on the outside edge.

The front and sides are 1×2's and the bottom is 1/2″ ply inset between the sides and front.

Use 16-18″ side mount drawer slides for these, be sure they have no more than a 1/2″ clearance on the sides.

Use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ pocket hole screws to attach the bottom to the sides, front, and back. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the back to the sides, and the sides to the front.

Step 4

Build the Drawers: Just as in the previous step, the bottom will be inset to the 1×4 front, sides, and back. The Inside edge of the drawer front needs to overhang the sides by 3/4″ and the outside edge needs to overhang the sides by 1/2″. Your drawers will be opposites. The inside edges will be those edges that will sit closest to the Center Divider.

Glue and Nail on your Drawer Front Trim using your 5/8″ finish nails.

Step 5

Attach the Top: The top is flush on the sides and back with an overhang on the front of 1″. Use your 2″ finish nails and glue to attach.

Attach Beadboard Panels and Drawer Pulls: If you plan to use beadboard on the side panels, be sure the variety you purchase is no more than 1/4″ thick. Glue and nail in place using 5/8″ finish nails.

Step 7

Optional: Tack on the Back: Use glue and 5/8″ finish nails to secure. If you prefer to leave the back open you may. If you do add the back, be sure to cut plug holes in appropriate places for a mini fridge or other appliances.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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Showcase

A Dittle Dattle Beautiful Backyard Continued

10.04.11

I showed you the Single Loungers Carrie Built here, and now we are back to see her amazing umbrella stand! So fabulous and I am absolutely certain I need one too!

Built From These Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Chesapeake Umbrella Stand and Side Table

Finishing Technique

SW’s solid deck stain in Lodge Brown

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DIY

Easy DIY Abstract Sunset Painting

10.03.11

At this point I am fairly certain most of you are aware of my Office Craft Space Transformation in Progress (you can read up on those projects: here,here, here and here)… But no space is complete without a bit of art, am I right? So art we shall create, since buying art isn’t always an option! This is a fun little project, with no particular rules… this means you really can’t screw it up! Yay! We created this fun painting a while back, and the painting we are working on today is going to be a bit different in technique and obviously in result as well…so I hope you like it, or it at the very least inspires you to give painting a try!

First things first…get your supplies ready. I use egg cartons as my paint holders. Helps me keep the color separate yet visible and easily mixable if need be. I also tend to stick with one brush throughout a project like this and the fine friend you see below is precisely the perfect brush for this particular project. It’s a 1″ brush with flat blunt bristles.

I began with the white and black blending at the top and bottom and kept applying a tiny bit of either white or black until it was a nice gray, black, white blend. I used a side to side brush technique for this entire project. Simply sweeping the brush back and forth, back and forth until it was a consistency I was happy with.

Then I began to add the color! I tried to keep it slightly in line with a very colorful sunset but I went a bit crazy with it, adding greens, and dark pinks… just have fun with this part!

Once you have slapped some color on your canvas, you can begin to blend and shape things. This is a good time to make sure you like the layout of your color placement and that it makes sense to you! You can see below I added back in a bit more black and gray over the top of my crazy sunset. I was feeling like things were getting a bit out of control and needed to reign it on in!

To finish off this fun little project, I added more gray, black and white over the top of the sunset colors, but only on the right side as if a storm is moving in from that direction. The finishing touch was to add a few drips of black paint as an abstracted version of rain drops…just a few! I hope some of you who don’t consider yourselves painters (like me) give painting a try. Even if the finished product looks like smut…you did it, and probably enjoyed it!

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Showcase

Vertical Cube Shelves

10.02.11

Elijah is no stranger to building… we have seen his Chesapeake builds, here and here, and now this fabulous vertical cube shelving unit! I also have another one of his projects to share with you later in the week as well…squeal! I just love seeing what you are all building! So proud.

These boys are available for custom work, if any of you need a bit of assistance building, or simply aren't able to build on your own! Yay!

Built From These Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build Vertical Cube Shelving Built Ins

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