This piece is a must if you plan on having an outdoor room with any of the fabulous other pieces in our Chesapeake Collection and will be constructed just like the rest of the collection so this should be a pretty snappy and very inexpensive build! Perfect between loungers or next to outdoor seating for keeping you cool while it’s toasty roasty hot outside, and offers the perfect spot to set your drinks and maybe a book or 2!
Under $25
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill and a hole saw or spade bit
Kreg Jigs® (pocket hole system)– optional and you can secure using wood screws and a countersink bit or Finish Nails
6 – 1×2 at 8’
4 – 1×3 at 8’
1 – 1×4 at 8’
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4” Wood Screws or 1 1/4” Nails – **Galvanized four outdoor use
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
4 – 1×2 at 19” Side Legs
28 – 1×2 at 11 1/2” Vertical Panel Boards
8 – 1×2 at 15” Top
4 – 1×3 at 19” Front/Back Legs
8 – 1×3 at 12 1/2” Rails
4 – 1×3 at 16” Umbrella Holders
4 – 1×3 at 2” Umbrella Holders
2 – 1×3 at 19 1/4” Top
2 – 1×3 at 15” Top
2 – 1×4 at 19” Base Trim
2 – 1×4 at 17” Base Trim
** You can make alterations to this piece to accommodate an existing umbrella stand base which I will explain further in the steps below (so be sure to read all the way through before you go cutting and buying) if your umbrella is unusually heavy or exceptionally wide and has fun tilting capabilities and you think you need a little extra staying action. If you live in an area like mine, you might be prone to the occasional umbrella fly away days with windy situations. An umbrella base encased in this stand/side table would give you a little more staying power for certain. In these parts it isn’t unusual to have to search for your umbrellas or to fish them out of your pools for instance. But in my current casa, it would more than likely land in my neighbors yard and that wouldn’t be good!
For outdoor use, choosing a wood specie that holds up well to moisture and is rot resistant is always advisable. Those option might include Cedar, Redwood, and Teak, perhaps also Eucalyptus but I am unsure how easy that might be to purchase or find at a typical lumber supply store. Also consider sealing your wood with something suitable for outdoor use such as a water seal type product.
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found on the main page of my site.
Build the Front and Back Panels: Each Vertical section will have 7 – 1×2’s as shown below unless you need to alter the size of this to accommodate an existing umbrella stand. To determine the exact number you will need, simply calculate the width of your stand, then subtract 5” for the outside legs measurements and then the remaining space needs to be wide enough to accommodate a whole number of 1×2’s with 1/4” spaces between. This may take a bit of finger counting…if you get stuck, please feel free to contact me.
To fasten the panels together, use your Kreg Jigs® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the vertical boards (yellow) to the rails (blue) and the rails to the legs. The yellow boards (vertical boards) will be space 1/4” apart to allow for water runoff and other interesting outdoor conditions. This spacing will include the space between the legs and the first boards, and continue between each vertical board thereafter.
Build the Side Panels: If you need to alter the size as in the step above, you may need to add an extra vertical board for this step to count for the lack of width here since we are using 1×2’s for the legs also. This is purely for aesthetic purposes so the corner where the legs live don’t look extra bulky. To construct, use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, and create additional pocket holes down the legs on the side panels if you would like to fasten to the front and back panels in this manner. Otherwise you will use a countersink bit and 2” wood screws when you get to that step.
Add the Umbrella Holders: Construct the Shape using 1×3’s and your 2” Wood Screws. Then fasten to the Side Panels using your Kreg Jig®set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, fasten the raisl on the Side Panels with your pocket holes on the outside of the yellow boards for ease of fastening. The opening will be 2” and having 2 of these should steady your umbrella. If you plan to use an existing base with the umbrella stand side table, you can skip the bottom umbrella holder and simply add the top umbrella holder in the manner shown below.
Fasten the Sides with the Holders to the Front and Back Panels: This might be a bit of a tight squeeze to get inside here depending on your drill, but if you created pocket holes in the step above, Use your Kreg Jigs®set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the unit together. If you prefer to use a countersink bit and 2” wood screws, predrill and fasten in that manner. You may want to consider this as a possible plan b anyhow if you have a large bulky drill like I do!
Add the Base Trim: Use your 1 1/4” Finish Nails or Galvanized Nails and glue to attach or your 1 1/4” galvanized wood screws, just be sure to countersink and predrill for the most professional appearance.
Construct the Top: Use your Kreg Jigs® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to construct the top. You will place your pocket holes in the blue boards attaching them to the longer outside boards, and you will place them in the shorter outside boards (15”) to fasten them to the longer outside boards (19 1/4”). To fasten the top in place, use galvanized nails or screws. Just be sure to countersink if you are using screws. Once you have the top in place, using a hole saw bit or a large spade bit if you can find one in this size (2” diameter) to create the umbrella hole. It will be easiest to do this while it’s attached. Make sure you center your hole on the top but also that your hole lines up with the umbrella holders below! You wouldn’t want to begin with this piece off kilter!
Fill any Screw Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired! I would absolutely recommend applying a sealer that is suitable for outdoor use! Though PB uses a standard poly over a stain…just so you know!
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
