Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Shelf Unit

11.19.11
Project Image

Not to be mistaken for the Parsons Low Bookshelf, this shelf unit is the first in a series for the West Elm Inspired Parsons Media Collection! Fun right? Yahoo.

Estimated Cost 

$25-$50

Dimensions 
Dimensions for This Project

Tools 

Safety Gear Tape Measure Drill Kreg Jig Saw – you will need either a Table Saw, Circular Saw, or Jig Saw to cut the plywood shelves.

Lumber 

1 sheet of 3/4″ ply 4 – 2×2 at 8'

Materials 

2 1/2″ pocket hole screws Wood Glue Wood Filler Sanding Supplies Finishing Supplies

Cut List 
  • 4 – 2×2 at 24″ legs
  • 6 – 2×2 at 17″ side rails
  • 6 – 2×2 at 39″ front and back rails
  • 3 – 3/4″ ply at 17″ x 39″ shelves
Instructions 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Step 1 

Create the Side Panels: Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 2

Step 2 

Construct the Shelves: You will cut your shelf panels to size and create your pocket holes all around the edges of each panel to attach them to the rails. You will use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock. Once you have created all of your pocket holes for the shelves, you will create the pocket holes in the rails using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock. Once all of your pocket holes have been created you will attach and your front and back rails to each shelf panel using your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. Then you will attach each shelf panel as shown below to your legs and rails. You will use your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to attach the rails to the legs and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to attach the shelves to the side rails.

Finishing Instructions 

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Build

10 Safety Precautions for DIYers

11.17.11
Project Image

As a fellow DIYer one of the great things we can all agree on is seeing and taking pride in our accomplishments no matter how small or big they may be.

At the same time whoever has been burned by a glue gun or bumped by a 2×4 (as many DIYers have) know very well that one of the most critical factors in a project’s success is good prep, which includes proper safety precautions.

Simply put, if we’re not careful with always following some level of safety protocol we could get ourselves hurt.

That said here are a few considerations for when working independently. They will hopefully make protecting ourselves more meaningful and keep us out of harm’s way when completely absorbed in the wonderful ‘do-it-yourself’ world.

Goggles: Getting a splinter or bad cut is one thing but when sawing, cutting, smashing, and scraping is there any piece of safety gear more important than goggles? Many of us probably don’t wear them enough but the truth is without this safeguard our sight can easily be compromised, as the tiniest spec of material flying towards our face could temporarily blind us.

Gloves: Sometimes dangerous or intricate work like using a saw or carefully staining the wood frame on an antique chair requires bare hands for delicate movements. However, when it comes to simpler jobs with repetitive motions like digging up the ground gloves act as a good buffer saving hands from the possibility of painful blisters and calluses. Find a pair you really like with good grips and personalize them with your name or special stitching so they’re not just any other pair of gloves. That way you’ll be more attached to them and more likely to put them on.

A work partner: Every DIYer’s dream is to work alone but sometimes it’s a good idea to have a helping hand available for tasks such as lifting very heavy materials, accessing hard to reach places, or dangerous jobs like roof repair . Don’t be afraid of having someone else around because you can also bounce ideas off of them and gain some new perspective.

Music: Despite the fact music helps pass time it can also be a major distraction where complete focus is needed, especially when using machinery or sharp objects. Wearing ear buds is even more dangerous because if we are startled while using a blunt tool it could cause injury.

Clean up: It’s probably happened here and there that we’ve woken up in the morning, walked into the shop, and tripped over a power cord left out the night before. Prevent accidents by making it a point to turn off, store, put away, and where necessary unplug equipment when we’re finished.

Breaks: Sometimes when we work for hours on end solving problems gets harder and harder. Stepping away for a few moments refreshes our creativity and resolve to continue. At the same time it’s important to note that if we are actually tired it’s better to take a break and come back when we’re more awake. That way our judgment will be fresh and we’ll end up making less mistakes on our project.

Phones: If the phone rings and you must get it stop what you are doing and turn off power tools and machinery before walking away. That way if the conversation becomes involved you won’t come back to a burnt out motor or worse.

Ventilation: Because it’s usually the case that fumes or filthy air go hand-in-hand with interior home improvement jobs proper ventilation is a must. When painting the bedroom, adding a new varnish to the floor, or cutting through concrete make sure to use a fan or exhaust system to keep the air moving and eventually help refresh it.

Alcohol: It may sound obvious but some things need to be heard again. Alcohol on the job is a no-no and although you make think one drink is sometimes harmless it has no place in the DIY domain. Instead, save it for when you need to wind down later in the evening.

Don’t rush: Even the most skilled artisan will tell you never rush since that’s when most mistakes and accidents occur. Take your time and enjoy every minute of your project so once it’s complete you’ll be able to look back and be mesmerized by the craftsmanship.

Jakob Barry writes for Networx.com . He covers various home improvement and DIY topics.

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Firehouse Bookcase

11.14.11
Project Image

I love these fabulous yet functional play shelves that act as both shelving as well as a bit of fun for your firefighter boys at heart!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Safety Gear

Tape Measure

Drill

Kreg Jig – optional

Saw

Jig Saw

Nail Gun – optional

Lumber

1 – 1×6 at 6′

1 – 1×3 at 6′

1 – 1×2 at 6′

1 – 3/4″ square dowel at 3′

1/2 sheet of 1/4″ ply

1 sheets of 3/4″ ply

Materials

1 1/4″ pocket hole screws – if using KJ

2″ wood screws – if not using KG

1 1/4″ Finish Nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

1 – 1×6 at 28″ Top Trim

2 – 1×6 at 13 3/4″ Top Trim Sides

1 – 1×3 at 28″ Bottom Trim

2 – 1×3 at 13 3/4″ Bottom Trim Sides

2 – 1×2 at 25″ Shelf Trim

6 – 3/4″ Square Dowel at 6″ Window Trim

1 – 1/4″ ply at 25″ x 43 1/4″ Back

2 – 3/4″ ply at 13″ x 25″ Shelves

1 – 3/4″ ply at 13 1/2″ x 25″ Bottom Shelf

1 – 3/4″ ply at 13 3/4″ x 26 1/2″ Top

2 – 3/4″ ply at 13 3/4″ x 43 1/4″ Sides

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Cut your Sides to size and carve out the windows: Using a jig saw carve out the window openings as shown in the image. Use your drill to create a few pilot holes in the window area to allow you to easily get your jig saw blade into place. You will need 2 of these.

Step 2
Step 2

Fasten the Top and Bottom in place: Using your 2″ Finish Nails and glue tack on the top. Using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue, fasten your bottom shelf in place. It will need to be set back 1/4″ on the back side.

Step 3
Step 3

Fasten the Shelves in Place: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 4
Step 4

Tack on the Back: Use 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue to fasten in place.

Step 5
Step 5

Attach the Trim: Using 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue, tack on the various trim pieces as shown below.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

DIY

Fabulous Fall Projects

11.13.11

Thanksgiving is sneaking up on me, to be sure. What a better way to spend the weekend than with a few festive crafts and home decor projects accompanied by a some rather sweet treats.

1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6

Design / DIY / Uncat

DIY + Projects: Lighting

11.11.11
Project Image

There is nothing I love more than a good DIY Project, especially one that’s chic without the price tag that typically comes with it. That’s precisely what these possibilities offer…

Globe pendants are simply stunning, and a lighting fixture made from a candy dish? You can totally make this… Searching for the fantastic items to use on these projects might be half the fun!

1 / 2 via Lesapea / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6

DIY

12 Art Projects You Can Absolutely Try Yourself

11.10.11
Project Image

That’s right… while many of these amazing works of art are not DIY tutorials, they can absolutely provide you with enough inspiration to get the ball rolling on your own. You can do this… I know you can, because I can, and if I can, you can, since I don’t have any special artistic super powers… and I know I can! So you totally can..

The first abstract work of art is stunning and I know this can be done using colors of your choice because I made my own abstract paintings here and here. The second abstract might be the easier of the two since it requires a little less artistic prowess to create diagonal lines than to attempt a landscape of sorts.

A simple Computer printout and a little mod podge on wood or mdf, will get this first typographic work of art started on the right foot! Those shiny letters are fabulous and can easily be recreated using dimes and wooden or cardboard letters purchased from your local crafty store!

A Book Collage! Super cool… And very likely more easily done by removing the main book portion and leaving only the spines to attach onto cardboard or foam board in the appropriate shape and pattern. If you were wondering what to do with all those old dust collecting books, perhaps this is it!

Overlapping Circles = genius in a most pleasing and simple way. By keeping it to similar levels of saturation in a few different complimentary colors, this type of art can be done in many publishing programs and printed on nice paper.

Perhaps the 2 pieces of art that strike me with the most excitement…

The first uses stark white paint free handed onto the lighter portions of the wood grain! Adore this… So simple.

This second sparkly pieces is fabulous with a smattering of circles punched from metallic paper and glued onto a canvas or board. You can totally do this! It’s fabulous!

Now these are decidedly more complex than meets the eye, but a more toned down (ok, dumbed down) version can easily be made.

This blue abstract color splotch reminds us that something so graphic with 2 basic colors (background color and splotch color) is stunning and beautiful. Using a blank canvas simply splash a bit of color on and pretend to give it a shape and you are good to go! Fab!

This stamped-like square watercolor beauty is almost like a pixelated image (and might actually be, who knows) and if you stick to painted watercolor squares or square potato stamped shapes in a similar pattern as you see here (their particular arrangement of light and dark and saturation) you should end up with something similar. Just be sure to follow a pattern you know will work (like this one) and you should avoid having it look like ridiculous color blocking from a 3 year old (um yes I have personal experience here). Watercolor would be amazing, but if you can’t do that, try something on the order of 10-15 different shades of blue/gray (or other color) ranging from almost white to dark navy and follow along with the image above in a paint by number (square) sort of manner.

You are in luck with this first stunner… there is a tutorial on this technique! Yahoo!

The second over-sized beauty is simple wallpaper with a frame surround. It sets a cool backdrop don’t you think?

Images: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12

Design / DIY / Home

How To Install Engineered Hardwood Flooring: Underlayment and a Pattern

11.10.11

When my mom asked me if I would be willing to help her on a project, and give flooring installation a try, I was completely excited for the opportunity to take part in a Home Improvement Project. Since I rent my own home, I am not exactly able to do such things, and every now and then I get the urge to test out my Home Improvement Prowess…

I usually snap out of that craziness rather quickly, but this time there was no going back. I had agreed, the flooring had been ordered, and the project was officially on the books…

And then the researching began, and we got nothin’!

It turns out, there isn’t a heck of a lot of info on laying a floating wood floor to be found on the interwebs. I mean don’t get me wrong, there is a TON of info out there, but none of the details we needed were anywhere to be found.

For example:

  • 1. Which direction is up on the underlayment?
  • 2. Should the underlayment wrap up onto the base of the walls for added protection behind the base boards or is that space between the underlayment and the wall supposed to be there?
  • 3. If so, won’t that cause potential problems if the purpose of the underlayment is not only for comfort but for protection from moisture and water?
  • 4. What are some optional patterns for laying the floor boards?
  • 5. How much space is needed for the T Shaped thingy that sits between the new flooring and existing flooring?
  • 6. Do we need to use the extremely toxic flooring glue, or can we use any wood glue?
  • 7. Why are there a random assortment of sizes in each box of flooring without any labels as to which assortment the particular box contains and no information as to how many of that box we might need, to make a pattern work nicely for the size of the room?

Do you see how this might have been an entirely frustrating process for someone who needs to function with a plan of attack in order to remain a sane person? Just sayin…

Needless to say, we dove right into this mess headfirst and thought we would simply fake it till it worked or we killed it. The man at the store said the sizes and types are random, there is not set pattern or option for one, because even if you had one you have no clue what’s in the boxes until you open them up. right….. ok…. this isn’t going to work very well for my personality type… grrr…. this needs to be fixed if the DIY’er becomes a direct consumer of this type of product… So here goes…

We chose a floating wood floor type that is engineered (engineered hardwood flooring) because we were laying over a concrete slab and it made the most sense for some of the moisture issues that may or may not arise in the future (pets and all their wonders…).

They make amazing products out there for this exact purpose and they have an advantage over laminate in that if an injury is to occur at any point, to your flooring, it can be touched up just as wood furniture can be. This is very important for our needs here, it may or may not be for you, this really depends on your lifestyle and the others in your home (pets, kids, heavy furniture).

This is the exact product we chose here. We didn’t purchase it from this particular store, but rather a local guy who sells this product. And also apparently one who doesn’t know squat about how to install it, or work with it in any way shape or form. So I won’t be touting his services any time soon. I’m sure you understand…

We purchased a thick moisture barrier type underlayment product that the previously mentioned man sold alongside the flooring product and after much research we were able to conclude that we ‘think’ the underlayment is supposed to be laid the way you see in the images above. As in with the plastic lining facing up…

Still not sure… but pretty sure?

It needs to be taped together at the seams and so we used Gorilla Tape, but in actuality the underlayment has sticky parts that appear to be for this purpose. We taped anyway just to be extra safe? And also because as per usual, we could find no info on how to proceed.

Once we had the underlayment laid, it was time to get busy counting the quantity of pieces in each of the boxes (they were acclimating up until this point, to adjust to your homes conditions) and see if there was indeed a pattern to be found (or made).

Turns out those random boxes contained an accidentally decent ratio for one pattern and one pattern only to work properly.

When I say one pattern I say it with trepidation because it’s rare there should be only one, and so there may be others, but we tried nearly 80 different patterns and rotations, and counter-rotations, before concluding that regardless of where we started and how we laid them out, everything we tried ended with matching seams for every single row, at about the 15 foot mark.

Now the ONE single bit of instruction you are given by the flooring gods, if you will, is not to let your seams match from one row to the next. This causes a bit of vulnerability in your flooring and can be problematic.

So without fail, time after time, we found ourselves with a flat edge at 15 feet out from the wall… grrr…

My brain hurt at this point.

According to the flooring salesman, installers lay flooring in a random pattern. But our flooring type had 4 sizes, one of which was rather short and randomly slapped down boards would have looked RIDICULOUS!

But we finally did it. We managed to find one pattern that worked. If you know another, please let me know so I can share it, because I couldn’t figure another one out.

So here it is… our pattern.

The 4 sizes are as follows (and yes these are our made up names for them, highly professional and all):

  • Short – about 15″
  • Mort – about 24 1/2″
  • Medium – about 35 1/2″
  • Long – about 48′

We had twice as many Longs and Morts as we did Shorts and Mediums.

Our pattern was an odd/even rotation so that the 1, 3, 5 rows are the same while the 2, 4, 6 rows are the same.

And it goes a little something like this:

  • 1: Mort, Medium, Long, Mort, Medium, Long
  • 2: Long, Short, Long, Mort, Long, Short, Long Mort

And then you begin again with pattern 1.

Since there is a LOT of info to give here, I will break this into a series…so stay tuned next time for glue application, and a bit of the installation itself!

Plans

Free DIY Plans to Build a Jumbo Framed Chalkboard

11.09.11
Project Image

This project will be pretty easy and have such a fun and big impact result! I know how you all love a good chalkboard plan…

Estimated Cost 

$25-$50

Dimensions 
Dimensions for This Project

Tools 

Tape Measure

Safety Gear

Drill

Saw

Miter Saw or Box

Nail Gun

Lumber 

1 sheet – 3/4″ ply or Mdf

3 – 1×3 at 6'

3 – 1 1/2″ Crown Molding at 6'

Materials 

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

1 1/4″ Wood Screws

1 1/4″ Finish Nails

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Chalkboard Paint

Cut List 

1 – 3/4″ ply or mdf at 28 1/2″ x 64 1/2″

2 – 1 1/2″ Molding at 28 1/2″

2 – 1 1/2″ Molding at 64 1/2″

2 – 1×3 at 28 1/2″

2 – 1×3 at 66″

Instructions 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Step 1 

Cut the Chalkboard to Size and Fasten the Top Trim in Place: Paint the Chalkboard itself first so you don't have to worry about painting around the Molding later. Then begin by attach the Top Trim to it using either 1 1/4″ Wood Screws or Nails and glue. The Trim will sit flush with the back side of the chalkboard and protrude toward the front.

Step 2

Step 2 

Attach the Side Trim: Use 1 1/4″ Screws or Nails and Glue to fasten the Side Trim to the Top and Bottom Trim and the Chalkboard.

Step 3

Step 3 

Miter or Cope your Molding and Fasten in Place: Use your 1 1/4″ Finish Nails and glue to secure to each other and to the Trim Pieces and Chalkboard.

This can be mounted and hung using hardware or leaned against a wall! Enjoy…

Finishing Instructions 

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired Vintage Workshop Storage Bench

11.07.11
Project Image

I think this is on the list of ‘to be built’ items for my Monster Mash’s bedroom makeover (coming soon). I have a vision of how I hope things might work in there, but we shall see if that becomes a reality in the way I imagine it. Things have a way of going askew in the world of design, so fingers crossed this doesn’t!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Tools

Tape Measure

Safety Gear

Drill

Kreg Jig

Saw

Lumber

2 – 1×2 at 8′

1 – 1×8 at 6′

1 – 2×2 at 8′

1 – 2×8 at 8′

Cut List

4 – 2×2 at 16 1/2″ Legs

2 – 2×2 at 11 1/2″ Supports

2 – 1×2 at 11 1/2″ Lower Rails

6 – 1×2 at 14 1/2″ Dividers

6 – 1×2 at 8 1/4″ Dividers

2 – 1×8 at 28 1/4″ Bottom Shelf

2 – 2×8 at 38″ Top

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Construct the Panels: Fasten the Supports to the Legs using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the Lower Rails to the Legs using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. Be sure to create pocket holes for 1 1/2″ stock in the upper inner side of the legs so that you can easily attach the top later.

Step 2
Step 2

Attach the Bottom Shelf Boards: Use two adjacent boards and attach them to the leg units using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. Be sure to have 1 of the pocket holes for each end of your boards fasten into the legs and the other into the lower rail.

Step 3
Step 3

Construct 3 Dividers: You will make these like you would make a face frame with the horizontal rails attaching to the veritcal styles using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. Be sure to place additional pocket holes in the vertical styles to attach to the bottom shelf as well as the top in a later step.

Using glue and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws attach the dividers every 6 1/2″ to the bottom shelf. They should create equally spaced sections.

Step 4
Step 4

Attach the Tops: Using your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue, attach to the legs and using your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue, attach to the dividers. You can also simply nail your top boards to the unit and glue in place.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Design / Shopping

Lust List Restoration Hardware Industrial Bakers Storage Rack

11.07.11
Project Image

This pair of Industrial Baker's Storage Racks from Restoration Hardware would be absolutely amazing in any room of the house, but can you imagine it in a kid's room? Absolutely Stunning and oh so sophisticated… I would adore these in my Monster Mash's Room!

The Lust List here on TDC contains those items which are swoon worthy, to be sure, and yet just a tad out of my price range.

To view other Lust List Items, click the Design Tab near the top of my site and browse down to the Lust List box, or visit the Lust List Page!