Are you a plus one? I certainly aspire to be… It would seem these chic little plus signs are popping up everywhere, most notably with those uber stylish Scandinavians out there… But we can all get in on the action by taking note from these fabulous inspiration images!
I will be back in just a bit with some fabulous features from our Holiday DIY in Green Party so stay tuned for that, and get your own green projects rounded up to enter in the meantime!
As promised… we are back with Part 2 of our Gourmet Kitchen! Part 1 Plans can be found here.
This is the perfect compact kitchen for your little gourmet chefs… I will be posting Cottage Style Kitchen modifications next so stay tuned for a more girlish version!
$25-$50
Safety Gear
Tape Measure
Drill
Saw
Jig Saw
Kreg Jig – optional but recommended
Nail Gun – optional but recommended
1 – 1×8 at 6'
1 – 1×2 at 8' (6' will do but 8' is usually cheaper)
1/4 sheet – 1/2″ ply at 2' x 4'
1/2 sheet – 1/4″ ply
Door Handle or Drawer Pull for Microwave
1″ pocket hole screws – optional only needed if using KJ
1 1/4″ pocket hole screws – optional only needed if using KJ
1 1/4″ wood screws
2″ wood screws – not needed if using KJ
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
5 – 1/2″ ply at 7 1/4″ x 5 3/4″ Plate Rack and Micro Wall
1 – 1/2″ ply at 7 3/8″ x 5 1/2″ Micro Door
1 – 1/2″ ply at 2″ x 5 3/4″ Keypad
2 – 1/2″ ply at 7 1/4″ x 6 1/4″ Side Unit Verticals
2 – 1/2″ ply at 10 1/8″ x 7 1/4″ Side Unit Bottoms
1 – 1/4″ ply at 32″ x 15 1/2″ Back
1 – 1×8 at 32 3/4″ Top
2 – 1×8 at 14″ Sides
2 – 1×2 at 7 1/4″ Base Boards
2 – 1×2 at 7 1/2″ Window Trim
2 – 1×2 at 8″ Window Trim
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Construct the Hutch Unit: Fasten the Sides to the top if you are using a Kreg Jig, set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a KJ, use 2″ wood screws and glue to secure the top to the sides, just be sure to countersink.
Fasten the Base Boards to the Side Panels either with your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue, with your pocket holes placed in the side panels themselves. OR you can use 2″ wood screws and glue to secure from underneath into the Side Panels, be sure to center the base boards and countersink if you aren't using a KJ.
Fasten the Side Units in Place: Use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten in place or your 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.
Fasten the Microwave Keypad in Place, Then the Interior Wall:
If you are going to give this a fancy finish to resemble buttons and such, I recommend doing this prior to fastening in place. Then fasten in place using either your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue OR your 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.
Once the Keypad is in place you can tack on the Wall. Use either your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue or your 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.
Hang the Microwave Door: Carve the opening out of the door and hang using a hinge for an inset door (just something simple for this). Leave 1/8″ all the way around the little door.
Fasten the Plate Racks in Place: you can use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock and 1″ pocket hole screws and glue or you can use 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue, be sure to countersink. Given the proximity of these, it may be easier to simply use wood screws.
The plate racks should be spaced 1 5/8″ apart.
Fasten the Back in Place: Carve out the Window Opening as shown below, and then tack on the back using 1 1/4″ wood screws. The back will overhang the hutch bottom by 3/4″, allowing you to secure it to the Base Unit of the kitchen as well.
Tack on the Window Trim: I would probably just glue these in place, they aren't structural and so should be just fine.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
This project was sooooo much fun and so simple that I even dared to let Monster Mash help out! After all, the holidays aren’t quite as much fun without a little holiday magic and kid friendly woodworking! Am I right? You can decorate with ornaments, or perhaps drill out some shallow holes on the ends of each branch for candles… The possibilities are endless!
Under $25
Safety Gear Tape Measure Drill Spade Bit or Hole Saw Bit Saw
3 – 2×2 at 8′ 1 – 3/4″ Dowel at 36″
2 1/2″ pocket hole screws – optional Wood Glue Sanding Supplies Finishing Supplies – optional
2 – 2×2 at 27″ 4 – 2×2 at 24″ 4 – 2×2 at 21″ 3 – 2×2 at 18″ 2 – 2×2 at 15″ 2 – 2×2 at 12″ 4 – 2×2 at 9″ 2 – 2×2 at 6″ 1 – 2×2 at 3″ 1 – 3/4″ Dowel at 32″
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your Base: You can use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue. Using your Spade Bit, drill down almost all the way through your base, but not quite all the way. This would be about 1 1/4″ down into the board. Tape your Bit as shown here so that you know where you need to stop.
Add you dowel: If you want this to be collapsible, don’t glue. Or you can glue this piece and allow the branches to be movable so you can flatten to store…either way.
Add the Branches: Using your Spade Bit drill a hole in the center all the way through each branch. Then simply layer in the order outlined below: Each dimension listed will be for 2 pieces in the listed size unless otherwise noted. Row 1 and 2: 21″ Row 3 and 4: 24″ Row 5 and 6: 27″ Row 7 and 8: 24″ Row 9 and 10: 21″ Row 10 and 11: 18″ Row 12 and 13: 15″ Row 14 and 15: 12″ Row 15 and 16: 9″ Row 17 and 18: 6″ Row 19: 3″ This is the Top and only one of these will be used.
Add the top: This piece will also drilled only partially,to about 3/4″ will work to secure the top piece on your dowel and cap your tree so to speak.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
This is inspired by perhaps one of the cutest play kitchens I have seen and I am thankful that this was submitted as a project request! You guys have better eyes and ears than I at times and I'm glad when you share something fabulous with me!
We will be covering 2 styles for this play kitchen: the gourmet and the cottage kitchen. Each will have 2 sections, a base and a hutch with storage and a microwave, perhaps even a few accessories if I'm feeling particularly feisty!
Each style will be generally the same in construction and will only differ in how they are trimmed out.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$25-$50
Safety Gear
Tape Measure
Drill
Saw
Jig Saw
Kreg Jig – optional but recommended
Nail Gun – optional but recommended
2 – 1×12 at 8'
3 – 1×2 at 8'
1 – 1×3 at 6'
1 – 1×4 at 6'
1 1/4 sheet of 1/4″ ply
3 – Drawer Pulls in various sizes for the oven door, and top and bottom cabinets.
Small Sink and Faucet
2 – Stove burners or grates
2 – oven knobs
6 Hinges
2″ wood screws – not necessary if using Kreg Jig
1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
1 1/4″ finish nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
1 – 1×12 at 33 1/2″ Top
2 – 1×12 at 24″ Sides
2 – 1×12 at 19″ Center Dividers
1 – 1×12 at 32″ Bottom
2 – 1×12 at 10 1/4″ Outside Shelves
1 – 1×12 at 10″ Center Shelf
1 – 1×2 at 33 1/2″ Top Trim
1 – 1×2 at 35″ Bottom Trim
2 – 1×2 at 12″ Bottom Trim
6 – 1×2 at 8 3/4″ Doors
2 – 1×2 at 13 1/2″ Oven Door
2 – 1×2 at 6 1/8″ Top Cab Door
2 – 1×2 at 10 3/4″ Lower Cab Door
1 – 1×3 at 33 1/2″ Upper Facing
1 – 1×4 at 11 3/4″ Oven Knob Facing
1 – 1×4 at 32″ Footer Trim
1 – 1/4″ ply at 11 1/4″ x 9 1/4″ Oven Facing
1 – 1/4″ ply at 4 1/8″ x 9 3/4″ Top Cab Door
1 – 1/4″ ply at 8 3/4″ x 9 3/4″ Lower Cab Door
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build the Base Unit: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to build the box as shown below. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig you can use 2″ wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.
Mark out your sink hole and carve out using your jig saw so that you can set your sink into the hole.
Add the Shelves: The outside shelves are the same size, but all 3 shelves are in different locations. Fasten them in place using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a KJ you can use your 2″ wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.
Add the Facing and Footer: Use your 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue to tack on the upper and oven knob facing directly to the base unit and from the outside of the sides to attach the footer underneath the bottom board of the base unit.
If you want to give this a truly gourmet look, you might consider painting the Oven Knob Facing in a metallic silver (typically comes in a spray paint can) prior to attaching it (since you will likely have to spray it.
Construct the Doors: You will build all 3 doors by constructing the face frames for each using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.
To construct a face frame you will place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) and fasten them to the stiles (vertical). For the Cabinet Doors, you will then glue on the backing from the back side of the face frames and they will sit with 1/2″ overhang all the way around the opening for the Upper and Lower Cabinet Doors.
To hang your doors, simply allow for gaps as indicated below and attach using simple hinges for overlay cabinet doors.
The oven door will need the hinges on the bottom (obviously) and the cabinet doors should have the hinges on the outside edge.
Cut and Carve the Oven Door Facing and Tack onto the Oven Door using glue. You can paint this piece in a silver metallic finish to get a truly gourmet look!
Add the trim pieces shown below: Use glue and your 1 1/4″ finish nails.
Now it's time to add your fun hardware! You can purchase replacement parts for ovens, stoves, and sinks at your local hardware store and these are perfect for little play parts. I recommend creating a painted section to sit underneath the stove burners and for the facing underneath where the knobs will sit. This will give your piece that fabulous gourmet kitchen look!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Out with the old and in with the new, as they say…
I was planning on hosting Turkey Dinner at my house this year (you can read more about that here), I needed to leave my fall decor out until after Thanksgiving, naturally…
Since Turkey Dinner was going to be set in my living room dining room combo, that left my family room open for making the transition from Halloween and Fall right into Christmas, early! I was definitely pushing the envelope on Holiday Decor by bringing it right into early November! Honestly decorating for Christmas is my favorite thing ever, so I truly couldn't help myself.
I will share more details of my holiday decor later in the week, stay tuned for that!
As part of the Holiday Home Organization Blogger Challenge from Apartment Guide, I made it my mission to not only organize but simplify the decorating and storing process!
Bringing out all of these over sized goodies like the 6 1/2 foot twig tree below, didn't leave much room for the Halloween Treats that were still lingering, and so I needed to figure out an easy way to store my decor that wouldn't leave me frustrated next Halloween season.
No more digging through mislabeled boxes that are falling apart after years of use!
Color coded plastic bins is what I decided to do. I feel like next year it will be visually simple to find the appropriate items I want to pull out, if they are stored by color according to the holiday! Fall and Halloween have mutual decor in my house, so one for Fall and one for Halloween in the same color is perfect for now until I build up my holiday decor for this time of year. Then I will most likely need to increase to a third, but for now… light blue is for fall. While I realize it's probably a better color for Easter or Spring, light blue is what they happened to have at my local big box home improvement store. Light blue it is…
I try and layer my bins by using the items themselves to help support and protect other items in the bin with them. Placing the foam jack o lanterns on opposite ends of the bin and laying down an old towel in between left a perfectly protected place to put my precious ceramic skeleton, given to me by my MIL! Of course fragile pieces need to be protected a bit further and so I wrapped him in bubble wrap making sure to separate his limbs since it's most likely that if he breaks it will be because his limbs were clinking together.
Once he was well wrapped he went right in between the foam pumpkins and then the remainder of my spooky decor was added to the mix! My resin skeleton, a lot less breakable was snuggled with towels and my foam tombstones and spider friend went gently on top.
Zip lock freezer bags are your best friend when you are storing small items that don't have their original box or bag. They will help you see what's what while keeping things together and providing a tad bit of protection as well. Of course placing padded items near the top of the bin just as we did on the bottom with the foam pumpkins is definitely smart. Here you can see the stuffed spider and feather boa help add that little extra buffer for the items that are breakable.
A large clear label on the bins will help you differentiate between seasons and remind you of your color coding genius the following year, just in case you happen to forget.
This play table is on my list to build for Monster Mash's new room! I splurged and purchased the chairs that match this piece since they would be very difficult to duplicate, but the table… the price is simply hard to swallow at almost $400 for a few boards, a couple casters, and thin sheet metal tacked onto the top. I mean seriously…
If you prefer to apply a thin sheet of metal over the top boards, you can purchase any type of metal (zinc, steel, copper) sheeting online and at many big box hardware stores.
Under $25
Safety Gear
Tape Measure
Drill
Saw
Kreg Jig
Nail Gun – optional
1 – 4×4 at 8'
2 – 2×8 at 8'
1 – 2×4 at 8'
1 – 2×4 at 6'
2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2″ Finish Nails
4 – Locking Casters at 2″
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
4 – 4×4 at 19 1/2″ Legs
2 – 2×4 at 20″ Side Aprons
2 – 2×4 at 35″ Front and Back Aprons
4 – 2×8 at 44″ Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the Legs to Size: Each leg should be 19 1/2″ in height.
Fasten the Aprons in place: Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the aprons to the legs. Set the aprons in 1/4″ from the outside edges of the legs.
Join the Table Top Boards together: Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue and join the boards as shown.
Tack on the Top: Use your 2 1/2″ finish nails and glue to attach your top panel. Be sure to secure the panel unit to the legs, and aprons all the way around and center the top on the base unit. You should have about 1″ overhang all the way around.
Attach Thin Sheet Metal and Casters: Purchase sheet metal large enough to cover the surface and the edges of the table top panel. This is going to be roughly 47″ x 32″ after you factor in the 1 1/2″ thickness of your table top boards.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
I hope you all had a wonderful holiday, for those of you in the US who celebrate Thanksgiving. For those of you who don’t… I hope you had a wonderful Thursday and Friday! We had quite an eventful evening filled with food, family, and a dog seizure. What a night! To say I hope we don’t have a repeat affair anytime soon is an understatement on a few counts, but as for the family and food, it was delectable. I have mentioned before that my home is not large, but that it suits me fine for what I need. When ‘what I need’ becomes a place to seat 15 for a formal dinner, things can get a bit hairy.
You can see from the images above that I have a living room dining room combo and that it’s essentially a long narrow room that hardly fits my majorly over sized furniture. Clearly I care more for my things than I do for creating a more suitable arrangement because I haven’t been able or ready to let go of anything since moving into this place. Perhaps one day… but not this day! And so I began to clear and streamline my very lazy fall decor. I hardly did much more than pile every pumpkin I have in the center of my table and pretend like it looked good! This is what happens when you become to busy to enjoy the things you love, like holiday decorating! I started to realize this room had basically become a holding cell where all of my accessories come to live when they get booted from the other rooms. Of course now I can’t wait to transform this room for a more permanent look, but for now the goal is to make it feastable. And so I cleared, and cleared some more… and then again more… until only a fraction of the ‘stuff’ that was in here remained.
My table seats 8 on a good day, and this day was one of those days. But there were 11 adults, and no matter how much sweet talking I did to my pretty little gal, she could still only seat 8. The sofa stepped in and helped out by allowing me to pull in another table and a couple of extra chairs and actually made for a fun seating arrangement that gave everyone plenty of room to stretch out during dinner not worrying about rubbing elbows with anyone else.
It all worked out in the end, right up until ‘littlest dog in the world’ decided to have a seizure and scare everyone to death. Not to worry, my amazing family was on the job and everyone jumped in on the action to try and save him, even though we didn’t know what was happening at the time and thought he might have been choking. I walked upstairs for 30 seconds until my sister ran up to tell me I needed to come down immediately because my dog was croaking! Eek. My father in law attempted to remove anything lodged in his throat, as did my husband, and my wondrous mom even gave him doggie mouth to mouth! By the time I was downstairs he was breathing and seemed fine. Another clue that he had a seizure. We probably scared him half to death trying to resuscitate him, but I’m glad to have the support of everyone who knows how much of a doggy lover I am. They weren’t about to let him croak without putting up a good fight! I managed to miss the whole event, short lived but scary as it was, and I will tell you that nothing can clear out a house like an animal emergency. Just in case you ever need to end a party quickly you will know what to do. Just whip out your dog and have it roll over and play dead. Great party trick… yikes! Did any of you have an eventful evening or afternoon? Any other dog seizures out there? For your sake I certainly hope not! eek.
I’m fairly certain most of us assume that a perfectly stored home is a well oiled machine. We believe that those people who live in those homes enjoy organized, less stressful, and more productive lives. Well I couldn’t say one way or the other if this is true, because I am not one of those people… yet. I sure would love to find out though, wouldn’t you? With the holidays coming and going, the year drawing to a close, and a new year about to begin, I plan to take the bull by the horns and kick things into high gear. I’m determined to find out if the dream matches the reality… The images here are not only amazing examples of perfect storage, but they are clever, occasionally color coded, very well contained, and they inspire me to… well…burn everything in my house and start from scratch! Ya well I said it… you know you were thinking it too… just sayin’.
A very simple build, and a wonderful new media collection for us to begin, this piece will look smashing aside the Shelf Unit (plans for that found here)!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$25-$50
Safety Gear
Tape Measure
Drill
Saw – for cutting plywood
Kreg Jig
1 Sheet of 3/4″ Ply
3 – 2×2 at 8'
1 – 1×2 at 8'
1 1/4″ Wood Screws
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
2 Overlay Hinges
1 Door Handle – optional and inspiration piece does not have one.
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
4 – 2×2 at 3 1/2″ Legs
8 – 2×2 at 19″ Front and Back Rails
2 – 2×2 at 17″ Lower Side Rails
6 – 2×2 at 14″ Upper Side Rails
2 – 1×2 at 20 1/2″ Front/Back Ledges
2 – 1×2 at 15 1/2″ Side Ledges
2 – 3/4″ ply at 19 1/4″ x 26″ Sides
1 – 3/4″ ply at 20 1/2″ x 26″ Back
2 – 3/4″ ply at 19 1/4″ x 22″ Top and Bottom Cabinet
1 – 3/4″ ply at 22″ x 27 1/2″ Door
3 – 3/4″ ply at 14″ x 19″ Shelves
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build the Bottom Leg Unit: Fasten the Rails to the Legs using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue.
Add the Ledges: Using 1 1/4″ Screws and glue attach the ledges as shown below. They will be set in 3/4″ from the outside edge and should overhang the inside edge by 3/4″.
Construct the Cabinet Box: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the back to the sides and bottom, and the sides to the bottom.
You will need to create your pocket holes along the top edges of the back and sides as well so you can attach to the Upper Unit in a later step.
Once you have constructed the 4 sided box, attach it to the ledge by securing with your 1 1/4″ screws and glue from underneath on the ledge overhang.
Construct the Top Unit with Side Panels: Using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue attach the Side Rails to the Upper Legs. Once you have the side Rails connected, attach the Cabinet Top to the Upper Legs leaving a 2 1/4″ overhang on the front side and allowing the Cabinet Top to sit flush with the Side Panels on the sides and back. To attach the Cabinet Top you can use either 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue or you can attach the Side Panels to the Top using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.
Do not attach this to the Cabinet Box yet. Wait until after you secure the shelves and front and back rails.
Add the Shelves: Fasten the Shelf to the Front and Back Rails using your Kreg Jig Set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. Then attach the Shelf Units to the Side Panels using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue.
Once you attach these, you can flip the Upper Unit over and attach it to the Cabinet Box using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock with pocket holes placed in the Cabinet Box Back and Sides, and your 1 1/4″ pocket holes screws and glue.
Hang your Door: you can use any hinge you like and feel comfortable with that is for an overlay door.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
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