With this year’s wave of non traditional holiday decor seeming more like a tidal wave, I am beginning to think that perhaps non traditional is actually the new tradition. I adore virtually all neo trad trends that roll across my desk, and I for one, shall embrace this to the fullest extent!
This console table doubles as a bookshelf and storage unit. Build two units and wrap a corner of your sofa, or build several and line the whole back side of that baby! I am currently using two expedit shelving units on the backside of my floating sofa, so for those of you who don’t have a wall to place your sofa along, this is a fabulous solution. With a modern shape and a low profile, it serves double duty by giving you a storage solution and providing you with a bit of a room divider at the same time. Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$25-$50
All pieces are cut from ¾” plywood and the grain should run parallel to the longest side except as noted–
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut all pieces as indicated. It would be a good idea to sand each piece after cutting and drilling the pocket holes because sanding after assembly may be difficult! Also, if you choose to use edge banding on the plywood edges, this would be a good time to apply that to all edges that will be exposed. If you prefer to leave them exposed, sand really well. Using the Kreg jig set for ¾” material and the Lower Divider, drill pocket holes along the 9-1/4” edges. Attach with 1-1/4” screws to one of the Shelves (this will be the lower shelf), 8-1/4” in from the edge. Make sure the front of the divider is even with the front of the lower shelf. This will allow for attaching the back.
Drill pocket holes in the Lower Back piece on each of the 29-3/4” edges. Attach to the lower shelf and to the divider with the pocket holes facing out. See drawing.
Lay the middle shelf on this assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the pocket holes on the back and divider pieces.
Drill pocket holes in the 9-1/4” edges of the Upper Divider and attach the divider 8-1/4” in from the edge of the middle shelf. Make sure the upper divider is placed opposite of the lower divider. See drawings
Drill pocket holes in the Upper Back along the 29-3/4” edges. Fasten to upper divider and middle shelf with 1-1/4” screws.
Lay the last 10” x 38” piece on top of the assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the remaining pocket holes in the upper back. Finish as desired.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of The Design Confidential. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affiliate links
Another PB Inspired piece in the fabulous Carolina Collection! Now the kiddos can have their friends over for a monster truck rally or even a spa day on a large table created just for them!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Between $40 – $65.00
Safety Gear
Tape Measure
Drill
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Sander
Kreg Jig
1 – 3×3 Post* at 8’**
2 – 1×3 at 8’
1 – 1×3 at 6’
Half sheet of 3/4” plywood
**If 3×3 posts are not available in your area or are too expensive, 1×3 lumber can be face-glued to 2×3 lumber to create the posts. Keep in mind that the depth will differ by 1/4” so the aprons need to be adjusted by 1/2″ (shorter) accordingly.
**Purchase 1 additional 1×3 at 8’ and 1 additional 2×3 at 8′ for this step.
1 1/4” pocket hole screws
Wood filler
Sanding Supplies
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies
4 – 3×3 at 21 1/4” (Legs)
2 – 1×3 at 38” (Long Aprons)*
2 – 1×3 at 23” (Short Aprons)
2 – 1×3 at 26 1/2” (Table Top Supports)
1 – 3/4″ plywood at 30”x45” (Top)
** If making your own posts from 1×3 and 2×3 lumber, add 1/2” the length of the aprons. supports, and table top.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Using the saw of your choice, cut the posts to the length indicated.
Cut the apron pieces as listed above and add pocket holes to each end. Two at each end will be sufficient. Also add pocket holes to one long end of each of the 23” aprons to secure the table top. (These should face to the inside.) Attach the aprons flush with the front of the legs using the 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. Don’t forget to use glue for an extra strong joint!
Cut the top supports and add pocket holes (set for 3/4″ stock) to each end. Also add pocket holes to one long end of each board to secure the table top. Space the supports on the long aprons as indicated and secure with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.
Cut the table top to the measurements indicated. The top will hang over the table by 1” on each side. Secure to table frame using 1 1/4” screws through pocket holes drilled on long sides of 23” aprons and supports.
Add nail-on furniture glides to bottom of legs, if desired. I’ve also used adjustable glides on my tables.
To finish the edges of the tabletop, use iron-on edge banding or sand the edges and leave them exposed.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability..
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the legs and aprons, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
We are back with a few more pieces in the ‘Up on the Rooftop’ Collection of Printables! Earlier we surprised you with these beauties, and now a few more to round out the collection! I hope you like them!
Gift Tags that are sure you to make your gifts that much more delightful…
They say it’s better to give than to receive… and having adorable thank you cards sure helps…
Last time we shared a gift list, and this time we give you the perfect notepad for whatever you need to keep track of. Customize it to suit your needs… Maybe a To-Do List, grocery shopping list, party invites…. you name it, make it yours, and write it down!
This is a simple and quick table for the little ones, where they can create, pretend, or have their own “kids’ table” to eat at!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Between $40 – $65.00
Safety Gear
Tape Measure
Drill
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Sander
Kreg Jig
1-3×3 Post* at 8’
2-1×3 at 8’
Half sheet of ¾” plywood
*If 3×3 posts are not available in your area or are too expensive, 1×3 lumber can be face-glued to a 2×3 to create the posts. Keep in mind that the depth will differ by 1/4” so the aprons will need to be adjusted accordingly (add a 1/2″).
* You will need to purchase one additional 1×3 at 8′ as well as one 2×3 at 8′ if you are face gluing for the legs.
1 1/4” pocket hole screws
Wood Filler
Wood Glue
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
4 – 3×3 at 21 1/4” Legs
2 – 1×3 at 26” Long Aprons*
2 – 1×3 at 17” Short Aprons
2 – 1×3 at 20 1/2” Table Top Supports
1 – 3/4″ ply at 24” x 33” Top
** If making your own posts from 1×3 and 2×3 lumber, add ½” the length of the aprons.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Using the saw of your choice, cut the posts to the length indicated.
Cut the apron pieces as listed above (add 1/2″ if face gluing boards to create legs) and add pocket holes to each end (set for 3/4″ stock). Two at each end will be sufficient. Also add pocket holes to one long end of each of the 17” aprons to secure the table top. (These will face to the inside.) Attach the aprons flush with the front of the legs using the 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. Don’t forget to use glue for an extra strong joint!
Cut the top supports and add pocket holes to each end. Also add pocket holes to one long end of each board to secure the table top. Space the supports on the long aprons as indicated and secure with glue/screws.
Cut the table top to the measurements indicated. The top will hang over the table by 1” on each side. Secure to table frame using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws through pocket holes drilled on long sides of 17” aprons and supports.
Add nail-on furniture glides to bottom of legs, if desired. I’ve also used adjustable glides on my tables.
To finish the edges of the tabletop, use iron-on edge banding or sand the edges and leave them exposed.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability..
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the legs and aprons, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Steven used our plans for the Cross Frame Dining table and modified the dimensions to build a square version! Isn't it fabulous? Yahoo!
I was going to make the chairs too, but our in-laws wanted to buy them as a house-warming present. Got them from Ikea for $40 each.
I’m so excited to introduce a new collection and first on the list is the Kenwood Collection Inspired by the Restoration Hardware collection of a similar name, and this absolutely fabulous bunk bed project!
$100-$150
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Frame out the Head and Foot Boards: You will need 2 of each pictured here. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to secure.
Secure the Slats for one side of Each Head/Foot Board: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. This first round of slats will sit flush with the Legs and Rails on one side of the Head/Foot Boards, leaving space on the other side for the remaining slats. You will ultimately end up with 2 rows of slats here that stagger.
Tack on the Top Boards: Use 2″ Wood Screws and Glue to secure the top boards to each Head/Foot Board for both the upper and lower units. Be sure to countersink these screws.
Fasten the Remaining Slats in Place: These will stagger in comparison to the slats you have already fastened in place and to secure you will use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.
Create the Bed Rails and Then Secure: The Bed Rails will be 2×6’s with 2×2 cleats fastened along the bottom edges. Secure in place using 2″ wood screws and glue, and be sure both pieces sit flush on the bottom edge. To fasten the Bed Rails to the Head/Foot Boards use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to secure. The bottom edge of the Rails will sit 8″ up from the bottom of the legs and will sit flush with the bottom boards on the Head/Foot boards.
Tack down your Slats: Use 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue to fasten the supporting slats to the cleats. This will act as a box spring of sorts for your mattresses, so you won’t be needing box springs for this project.
Add the Long Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Head/Foot Board. Use your 2″ wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Head/Foot Boards
Add the Short Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Foot Board. Use your 2″ wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Foot Board.
Stack the Units: To do this you will need to bore a hole in the Top of the Bottom Unit Legs and in the Bottom of the Top Unit Legs that is 1″ in diameter and 2 1/2″ deep. Set your dowels into the bottom unit hole, then lift (carefully) the Top unit on top of the bottom unit and set onto the dowels that are sticking out. This is how you keep them stacked, but note that you can, at any time, un-stack them and use them as 2 individual beds.
Build the Ladder: Note that the outer corners of the ladder are angled for safety. You can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the Ladder to the Bunk in the same manner by using your Kreg Jig to secure the ladder to both the Top and Bottom Unit Rails. You can also use your 2″ wood screws and glue to secure from the inside of the Rails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
When I first saw the plans for the Flat File and the other pieces in the collection, I knew I had to have it! Space is limited at my place but I actually gave away another piece of furniture (gasp!!)in order to move this baby in! I use it to store table linens and candles in my dining room. The color is Valspar Blue Arrow and it is stunning with the Martha Stewart Soft-Iron Bin Pulls on the drawers. I love it!
Pine boards, and a combo of Birch and Pine plywood.
The 2x2s that are available at the big-box stores where I live are awful. I ripped 2x4s in half (which are roughly 1-1/2″ x 1-3/4″) and adjusted dimensions for the sides of the file.
Primed with Kilz primer first, sand with 220 grit, then paint with Valspar Interior Semi-Gloss in Blue Arrow.
As promised… we are back with Part 2 of our Cottage Kitchen! Part 1 Plans can be found here. This is the perfect compact kitchen for your little cottage chefs… For a more modern version of this kitchen, check out our Gourmet Version!
$25-$50
Safety Gear Tape Measure Drill Saw Jig Saw Kreg Jig – optional but recommended Nail Gun – optional but recommended
1 – 1×8 at 6' 1 – 1×2 at 8' (6' will do but 8' is usually cheaper) 1 – 3/4″ square dowel at 2' 1/4 sheet – 1/2″ ply at 2' x 4' 1/2 sheet – 1/4″ ply
Door Handle or Drawer Pull for Microwave 1″ pocket hole screws – optional only needed if using KJ 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws – optional only needed if using KJ 1 1/4″ wood screws 2″ wood screws – not needed if using KJ Wood Glue Wood Filler Sanding Supplies Finishing Supplies
5 – 1/2″ ply at 7 1/4″ x 5 3/4″ Plate Rack and Micro Wall 1 – 1/2″ ply at 7 3/8″ x 5 1/2″ Micro Door 1 – 1/2″ ply at 2″ x 5 3/4″ Keypad 2 – 1/2″ ply at 7 1/4″ x 6 1/4″ Side Unit Verticals 2 – 1/2″ ply at 10 1/8″ x 7 1/4″ Side Unit Bottoms 1 – 1/4″ ply at 32″ x 15 1/2″ Back 1 – 1×8 at 32 3/4″ Top 2 – 1×8 at 14″ Sides 2 – 1×2 at 7 1/4″ Base Boards 2 – 1×2 at 7 1/2″ Window Trim 2 – 1×2 at 8″ Window Trim 2 – 3/4″ square dowel at 2 5/8″ window trim 1 – 3/4″ square dowel at 7 1/2″ window trim
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Construct the Hutch Unit: Fasten the Sides to the top if you are using a Kreg Jig, set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a KJ, use 2″ wood screws and glue to secure the top to the sides, just be sure to countersink. Fasten the Base Boards to the Side Panels either with your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue, with your pocket holes placed in the side panels themselves. OR you can use 2″ wood screws and glue to secure from underneath into the Side Panels, be sure to center the base boards and countersink if you aren't using a KJ.
Fasten the Side Units in Place: Use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten in place or your 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.
Fasten the Microwave Keypad in Place, Then the Interior Wall: If you are going to give this a fancy finish to resemble buttons and such, I recommend doing this prior to fastening in place. Then fasten in place using either your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue OR your 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink. Once the Keypad is in place you can tack on the Wall. Use either your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue or your 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.
Hang the Microwave Door: Carve the opening out of the door and hang using a hinge for an inset door (just something simple for this). Leave 1/8″ all the way around the little door. Fasten the Plate Racks in Place: you can use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock and 1″ pocket hole screws and glue or you can use 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue, be sure to countersink. Given the proximity of these, it may be easier to simply use wood screws. The plate racks should be spaced 1 5/8″ apart.
Fasten the Back in Place: Carve out the Window Opening as shown below, and then tack on the back using 1 1/4″ wood screws. The back will overhang the hutch bottom by 3/4″, allowing you to secure it to the Base Unit of the kitchen as well.
Tack on the Window Trim: I would probably just glue these in place, they aren't structural and so should be just fine.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
I am so very excited to introduce to you all, our very first new team member! I can say with absolute certainty, that following my announcement a couple of weeks ago about wanting to hire some additional talent, that the most supportive outpouring of kindness and generosity followed suit! And because of that, we have been able to begin compiling the most fabulously talented group of people to join us here at TDC. These folks will be sharing their amazing wealth of knowledge and creativity with all of us, and I couldn't be more excited to introduce you to the entire team and publish new and fresh content from them, that I wouldn't have been able to do on my own as a one man show! This is a momentous day here at TDC… and we are stepping into a whole new arena of DIY + Design! Without further ado, I give you Melissa from Zucchini & Co., our new Graphics Guru! Some of you might remember that she designed and created our buttons alongside Taylor from Maryjanes & Galoshes! You can see her work on those here and I recommend browsing her amazing store… she has some fabulous items in there available for sale! I hope you all take a moment to make her feel welcome, and show her the love you guys are so good giving!
Her first project here at TDC is to bring you these amazing Holiday Printables! Could you just D.I.E.? I could… they are absolutely stunning and I know you are going to LOVE them!
Super cute gift tags for all of your holiday packaging needs… DOWNLOAD HERE Simply print on 8 1/2 x 11 paper, cut out, punch a hole if you want to secure with ribbon, and give your gift!
A fabulous Gift List to help you keep track of your shopping needs and thank you card recipients! DOWNLOAD HERE Simply print on 8 1/2 x 11 paper, and you are ready to roll!
Adorable Dessert Tags for your Holiday Cupcakes and treats! DOWNLOAD HERE Simply print on 8 1/2 x 11 paper, cut out, fold in half, and glue onto a dessert stick!
This project is so adorable, I can't wait to see whose kiddos get this gift from Santa… As promised, these are the cottage mods for the Gourmet Kitchen (plans for that are here) and will follow the same building process with a few exceptions.
Plans for Part 2, the hutch can be found here.
Showcase: Built From These Plans
$25-$50
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build the Base Unit: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to build the box as shown below. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig you can use 2″ wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink. Mark out your sink hole and carve out using your jig saw so that you can set your sink into the hole.
Add the Shelves: The outside shelves are the same size, but all 3 shelves are in different locations. Fasten them in place using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a KJ you can use your 2″ wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.
Add the Facing and Footer: Use your 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue to tack on the upper and oven knob facing directly to the base unit and from the outside of the sides to attach the footer underneath the bottom board of the base unit. You will want to carve the footer with a curvy design that suits your taste. This is flexible and you can curve or angle as you please. I have provided the dimensions for my design below.
Construct the Doors: You will build all 3 doors by constructing the face frames for each using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. To construct a face frame you will place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) and fasten them to the stiles (vertical). For the Cabinet Doors, you will then glue on the backing from the back side of the face frames and they will sit with 1/2″ overhang all the way around the opening for the Upper and Lower Cabinet Doors. I recommend 1/4″ thick beadboard for the cabinets on the right. To hang your doors, simply allow for gaps as indicated below and attach using simple hinges for overlay cabinet doors. The oven door will need the hinges on the bottom (obviously) and the cabinet doors should have the hinges on the outside edge.
Cut and Carve the Oven Door Facing and Tack onto the Oven Door using glue. You can paint this piece in a silver metallic finish to get a truly gourmet look!
Add the trim pieces shown below: Use glue and your 1 1/4″ finish nails
Now it's time to add your fun hardware! You can purchase replacement parts for ovens, stoves, and sinks at your local hardware store and these are perfect for little play parts. I recommend creating a painted section to sit underneath the stove burners and for the facing underneath where the knobs will sit. This will give your piece that fabulous cottage kitchen look!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
