My Lust List is compile of things that are more expensive than I can afford OR are too difficult to DIY in any reasonable amount of time or energy!
Richard’s Trunk collection from Restoration Hardware is no exception to either of the above options, being both too expensive and also not all that easy to DIY with that hardware and those curves…. and so, here they will sit on my beloved imaginary shopping list… my Lust List.
This is an amazing project from one of my Blogger Buddies joining us all the way from Dublin! She has been featured here quite a few times since my blog began 2 years ago, and this time she is back with the most stunning Paper + Craft project I have EVER seen. Mind blowing… to be sure! You should absolutely ead over and take a peak around her site and also get the instructions to make one of these yourself. I know what I will be doing on my week without any more parties…
And I also plan to let mine sit for a while…maybe even year round! yahoo!
The Most Beautiful Christmas Stars I have ever seen…
This armoire is great with its clean lines and simplicity… The large pieces should make for a quick and easy build, too! It can be used as a pantry, an organized entertainment center, or for clothing storage. Extra shelves or a clothes hanging rod can be added, also!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter (A table saw would be best!)
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer
3 sheets ¾” plywood
1 sheet ¼” lauan or hardboard
1 – 2×2 at 8’
1 – 2×2 at 6’
1¼” pocket hole screws
2” screws
Small nails or 1” brads
Countersink bit for Drill
Hinges
Knobs or Pulls for Doors
Shelf Pins (Optional, if adding extra shelving)
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies
2 – 21” x 67” ¾” plywood – Sides
3 – 21” x 42½” ¾” plywood – Fixed Shelf**, Top, Bottom
1 – 21” x 25½” ¾” plywood – Lower Divider
2 – 21” x 21¼” ¾” plywood – Small Shelves
1 – 22” x 67” ¾” plywood – Door
1 – 21 7/8” x 67” ¾” plywood – Door
10 – 11” x 18” ¾” plywood – Door Panels
2 – 2x2x 41” – Leg Frame
3 – 2x2x19” – Leg Frame, Support
4 – 2x2x8” – Legs
** If you are going to add extra shelves, you will need to buy one ½ sheet of ¾” plywood. The shelves will be adjustable so they will be approximately ¼” shorter than the fixed shelves to allow for the shelf pins.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the sides, fixed shelf, top, and bottom. With the Keg jig set for ¾” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shelf, top, and bottom. Assemble with spacing as indicated and make sure the cabinet is square.
If you are going to add adjustable shelves, the shelf pin holes would need to be drilled during this step. The holes will need to be drilled approximately 3″ in from the front and the back on each side, and evenly spaced. The spacing will be determined by the amount of adjustment you want in these shelves. In other words, the holes could be spaced at 4″ if you want the shelves to be spaced at 4″ increments. It is a good idea to invest in a shelf pin jig (or make your own) that has all of the holes evenly spaced. You just line it up, drill, and go!
The lower picture shows how these shelves will look.
Remember that the adjustable shelves will be at least 1/4″ shorter than the fixed shelf.
Cut the pieces for the leg frame. Set your Kreg jig for 1½” material before drilling the holes. Center the support piece and screw into place. Set your cabinet on top and allow ¾” from the front of the frame to the front of the cabinet (for the doors) and ¼” from the back of the frame to the back of the cabinet (for the back). It may be easier to attach the cabinet to the frame from the inside. Drill countersunk holes into the cabinet bottom over the frame and attach with 2” screws.
Cut the pieces for the vertical divider and the small shelves. Set your Kreg jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in ends for assembly. It would be easier to attach the small shelves to the divider before attaching to the cabinet. Make sure the pocket holes in the divider face into the larger opening and not toward the small shelves to make it easier to drive the screws in.
Cut the piece for the back from the ¼” lauan or hardboard. If you are using this armoire as an entertainment center, you may want to drill large holes for power cords before attaching to the back. Attach with small nails or a brad nailer.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Note that one door will be 1/8” narrower than the other door to allow for a gap in the center. This makes it easier to close the doors. If the pieces were cut exactly the same size, they may rub in the center and it creates a lot of extra work to try to sand the edges evenly to make it fit!
Cut the pieces for the panels. The easiest way to assemble this would be to completely sand all pieces and draw a grid on each door. The panel pieces will be spaced 2” from the top, bottom, sides, and in between the other panels EXCEPT for the narrower door… The panels will be spaced 2” from the top, bottom, and in between the other panels but will be 1 7/8” from the center. Glue the panel pieces in place and secure with brad nails.
Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. The type of hinges to use is a matter of personal preference. Concealed hinges can be used but I find them hard to line up.
Add your knobs or handles.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
This fabulous candy buffet in green was super easy to throw together and with the rock candy recipe I shared a few days ago, has that little bit of something special to make the whole thing extremely budget friendly yet totally glamorous for your unsuspecting guests this holiday season!
Various apothecary jars are perfect for the occasion, but if that isn’t an option vases and bowls from IKEA or your local Dollar Store (or both) are the perfect solution!
All you need beyond that, is a healthy dose of green candy in various shades of green and various styles:
Candy used in this particular buffet…
Sweet Mint Rock Candy
Green Gumdrops
Green Mint Kisses
Green Mint M&M’s
Green Andes Mints
Additional candy options:
Green/White Candy Canes
Green Lollipops
Green Dinner Mints
Green Gummy Bears
Green Gummy Worms
As seen on Sacramento & Company’s morning show!
Wow was all I could say when I first saw this chair! I love the arc detail! The arcs can be cut from a template (details below) in case you decide to build more than one! I’m going to build mine using plywood scraps and leave the edges exposed! Can’t wait to see how that turns out!
Showcase: Built From These Plans
Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
1-1×8 at least 22” long
2-2×2 at 8’
2-2×8 at least 32” long
2’x2’ piece of ½” plywood
Scrap ¼” plywood for arc template at least 7” wide x 32” long
2½” screws
2½” pocket hole screws
Countersink bit for Drill
Router with Flush Trim Bit
Foam and Fabric for Seat
Stapler
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies
2-2×2 at 15” – Legs
1-2×2 at 21½” – Front
2-2×2 at 21 1/8” – Seat Frame Sides
2-2×2 at 18 ½” – Seat Frame Support and Back
2-2×8 at 32”-Arcs
1-1×8 at 21 ½” – Back
1-21 ½ x 22 5/8 piece of ½” plywood – Seat
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces as listed for the front and legs. Assemble with pocket holes and glue. Don’t forget to set your Kreg jig for 1½” stock!
Cut pieces for seat frame and assemble with pocket holes and glue. Space the center support piece as indicated. Attach to front frame.
Cut the arcs using a template.
To make a template:
Draw your piece on a scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard. Cut it out with a jigsaw and smooth any rough edges with a sander. Check the fit of the template against any pieces already built. For example, if it is a back chair leg template, the chair should already be constructed to this point. Any adjustments that need to be made can be made to the template before cutting the actual lumber. Drill a hole in the template for hanging and label it for later use.
To cut out your piece with a template:
Trace the template onto your piece of lumber and roughly cut out the shape making sure to stay outside of the lines. Attach the template to the piece with strong double-sided tape. Using a router and a flush trim bit, make sure you set the height of the bit so the guide will run along the edge of the template. Cut around the template. Depending on the length of your bit, you may have to make more than one pass around the template. In other words, if the piece you are cutting is 1½” deep and your bit is 1” deep, you will cut the piece around the template. Adjust the depth of the bit, then make another pass with the router. The guide bearing will not follow the template the second time but will follow the piece that has already been cut. Clear as mud? Here is a great demo on how to do this: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-use-router-templates-and-bearing…
Using a template will make your pieces more consistent and uniform, and you’ll have it in case you decide to build more than one!
Attach the arcs to the chair frame making sure the front of the arc is level with the front leg. Drill holes into the frame using a countersink bit and screw from the inside. You can also drive a screw through the front of the leg into the end of the arc, if desired.
Cut pieces as indicated for rear legs. Cut angles as indicated and drill a pocket hole in the top end of each leg. Don’t forget – you will have a right and a left! Line up the leg with the arc making sure the leg spacing at the floor is approximately 25 7/8” and the height from the floor to the top of the seat frame is 15”. It is more important to have the seat height correct than the leg spacing. Drill holes inside the seat frame with a countersink bit and attach the legs from the inside.
Cut the piece for the back from the 1×8 material. Drill pocket holes in each end. Two at each end should be sufficient but if you are more comfortable with three, do it! Attach the back making it as flush as possible with the front of the arcs.
Cut the plywood for the seat and cover with foam and fabric. The thickness of the foam is your choice… I would use 2” foam and cover it with Dacron (upholstery batting) before I cover it with fabric. After the chair finishing is complete, attach the seat to the frame by drilling countersunk holes into the bottom of the chair support and secure with screws. You could also drill holes into the bottom of the front and back of the frame and fasten it in the same manner.
You can also attach the seat directly to the chair and make a separate cushion if you want to swap it out without taking the seat apart.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
These LOVE bunting cards are so adorable and as far as I'm concerned can absolutely be used year round! Don't you agree? Yahoo!
It’s been a very busy week here at the house of TDC and there is something I have learned in the process…. that it’s not only ok to be yourself, but that you really can’t excel at anything unless you are honest about who you are and where you have been. That you can’t know where you are going until you stop to pay attention to what you want. Because what you want, should dictate your every move.
What if you want a big family, great career success, good friends, to read fantastic literature day in and day out. Well… it makes no difference really as long as you acknowledge it and move forward with that motivating thought in your mind.
Keep your eye on the prize… as they say.
Now I don’t pretend that everyone wins, because in fact they don’t and life really isn’t fair….and all that jazz.
But fortune favors the brave and sometimes knowing what you want isn’t enough. Sometimes conquering your fear is the fastest way to cross the finish line. But that might be scary, in fact I guarantee it will be.
This week I conquered my fear, and while there weren’t bells and whistles with confetti falling from the sky, there was a new found inner confidence and the realization that sometimes something that seems scary is only scary the first time around… and after that, you got this… you can do this.. you are strong. You are at least stronger than you originally thought, and you are valuable, and uniquely you. And that my friends… is so completely special.
You are important, and I am honored that you care to spend time with me, because I love to spend time with you… all of you, unless you are rude and then I might prefer to scratch your eyes out a little bit. What can I say… it always goes there for me.
Hugs and love from my little pond out west.
Thank you, that’s all folks… except that I will be back in just a bit to share more, and interesting and wonderous things… yahoo!
Smart people say Smart Things: Emily McDowell
I love the look of this collection, with the planked panels and strap hinges! Depending on the finish you use, this could have either a rustic or modern appearance!
Showcase: Built From These Plans
Around $40
Tape Measure
Saw: Jig, Circular, or Miter
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer
1/2 sheet of 3/4″ plywood
1/4 sheet of 1/4 plywood
6 – 1×3 at 8'
1 – 1×2 at 6' or a scrap piece at least 18″ long
1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
1 1/4″ brad nails
Drawer pull or Door Handle
2 – strap hinges
Wood filler
Sanding Supplies
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies
1 – 1×2 at 17 3/4″ -Front Frame
6 – 1×3 at 12 1/2″ -Door Frame, Side Frames
5 – 1×3 at 14 1/4″ -Door
1 – 1×3 at 17 3/4″ -Front Frame
10 – 1×3 at 18 1/2″ -Side Panels
2 – 1×3 at 19 1/4″ -Door Frame
6 – 1×3 at 26 1/4″ -Side Frames, Front Frame
1 – 1/4″ ply at 21 3/4″ x 22 3/4″ -Back
2 – 3/4″ ply at 17 1/2″ x 21 1/4″ -Shelf & Bottom
1 – 3/4″ ply at 18 3/4″ x 23 1/4″ -Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut out the pieces as listed for the sides. You should have four 1×3 pieces at 12 1/2″ which will be the tops and bottoms for each side, four 1×3 pieces at 26 1/4″ for the sides of the frames, and ten 1×3 pieces at 18 1/2″ for the panels. I like to drill all of my pocket holes first, then assemble.
Cut and attach shelf and bottom. As a note, the top of the board used for the bottom should be flush with the top of the lower rail on the sides, see drawing.
Cut the back from the 1/4″ material. Attach with glue and nails (or a brad nailer) after making sure the cabinet is square.
Cut the door frame pieces. I like to assemble these frames as one piece (face frame) rather than attach them individually, so use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. Attach to front with glue and nails (or a brad nail).
Cut and attach top. The top will overhang the front and sides by 1/4″. It can be attached by using a brad nailer and fastening directly through the top into the sides and the front frame or by using 1″ angle brackets.
Cut the pieces for the door: you should have two 1×3 pieces at 12 1/2″ for the top and bottom of the frame, two 1×3 pieces at 19 1/4″ for the sides and five 1×3 pieces at 14 1/4″ for the panel. The door should have an 1/8″ gap on all sides between it and the frame.
Attach the hinges and the knob. I find it easier to attach the hinges to the door first, then line it up and use shims to help keep it in place while attaching the hinge to the frame but use whatever method you feel comfortable with is fine.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the cabinet and shelves, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
As seen on Sacramento & Company’s Holiday Decorating and Entertaining segment, as part of my Holiday Candy Buffet (article coming soon…)!
This was such a fun project for all of us to do, and my first foray into the world of candy making!
This would make a yummy treat for the family or a fun guest gift for your next holiday party. It’s really simple to make and very inexpensive to produce in bulk.
Pick a color to match your party decor and a flavor that suits you, and that right there is half the battle! I am providing the recipe for my sweet mint variety, please note you can use any flavoring you prefer.
Recipe:(Makes One Tray)
Ingredients:
2 cups water
1 cup white corn syrup
3 1/2 cups sugar
1/4 tsp cream of tartar
1/4 tsp of vanilla extract
1/4 tsp of peppermint extract
4-5 drops of green food coloring
Add all contents to a sauce pan and boil the mixture. Continue stirring while it heats, until until it reaches 300 Degrees F; use a candy thermometer to measure the temperature (if you don’t have a candy thermometer, it’s possible to use a meat thermometer with a long stem – this is actually what I used).
Once it reaches 300 Degrees, pour it into a cool tray or cookie sheet (with a lip) and allow it to cool and harden.
This will take about an hour or so.
Once it’s completely cooled and hardened you can smash it to pieces and break it apart. This is certainly the fun part!
I’m so excited to share this fabulous set of Color It Yourself printables with you from the uber talented Melissa of Zucchini & Co! Please visit her store to thank her for all of her hard work!
You will find the DOWNLOAD link under each image!
For the amazing and fabulous 5×8 Prints:
For the amazing and fabulous fold over Prints:
For the amazing and fabulous 8×10 art sized prints:
What a fabulous table this is, especially for budding artists and little crafters in our lives! The paper roll will keep them busy creating for hours on end!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
Safety Gear
Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer
**1 – 3×3 Posts at 8’
1 – 1×3 at 4’
1 – 1×3 at 8’
1 – 1×4 at 4’
1 – 1×4 at8’
1 – 1” Round Dowel Rod at 2′
1/4 sheet of 1/4” plywood
Full sheet of 3/4” plywood
**If 3×3 posts are not available in your area or are too expensive, 1×3 lumber can be face-glued to 2×3 lumber to create posts. Keep in mind that the depth will differ by 1/4” so the aprons need to be adjusted accordingly (longer by 1/2″ total).
**Purchase 1 additional 1×3 at 8’ and 1 additional 2×3 at 8′ for this step.
1 1/4” pocket hole screws
1 1/2” screws
1 1/4” spade bit or hole saw
1 1/2” brad nail
Drawer knobs or handles
Wood filler
Sanding Supplies
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies
4 – 3×3 at 22 1/4” (Legs)
1 – 1×4 at 40” (Long Apron)*
2 – 1×4 at 20” (Short Aprons)
4 – 1×4 at 23½” (Table Top Supports)
3 – 1×4 at 4” (Apron Pieces on Drawer End)
1 – 3/4″ plywood at 27”x49” (Top)
2 – 1×4 at 14” (Drawer Faces)
4 – 1×3 at 11½” (Drawer Sides)
4 – 1×3 at 13” (Drawer Box Fronts and Backs)
2 – 1/4″ plywood 13”x13” (Drawer Bottoms)
** If making your own posts from 1×3 lumber, add ½” the length of these pieces.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Using the saw of your choice, cut the posts to the length indicated.
Cut the apron pieces as listed above and add pocket holes to each end (sized for 3/4″ stock). Two at each end will be sufficient. Also add pocket holes to one long end of each of the shorter aprons to secure the table top. (These will face to the inside.) Attach the aprons flush with the front of the legs using the 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. Don’t forget to use glue for an extra strong joint!
Cut the pieces for the paper roll. Use a compass to draw a 1 1/4” radius on one end and cut out with a jig saw. Bore a 1 1/4” hole through each piece. Secure to one end of the table, at the short apron, by screwing it to the apron from the inside. You can also secure it with a brad nailer that shoots 1½” brads.
Cut the top supports and add pocket holes to each end (sized for 3/4″ stock). Also add pocket holes to one long end of each board to secure the table top (sized for 3/4″ stock). Cut the 4” apron pieces that will be placed next to the drawers. Drill pocket holes in only two of these boards, on one end only so that the pieces can be mounted to the legs. You will build one “U” shaped box and two “L” shaped boxes. Space the supports on the long aprons as indicated and secure with glue/screws. The drawer slide hardware will be mounted on the lower end of these supports in each drawer opening.
Cut and assemble the pieces for the drawer boxes. Attach 1/4” plywood to the bottom and secure with glue and brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the boxes but DO NOT attach the drawer faces until you have the drawers installed.
A quick and accurate way to line the faces up is to pre-drill the holes for the knobs or handles, line up the drawer face so it fits in the opening and put a screw through the holes into the drawer box. Pull the drawer out and fasten the face to the box from the inside. Finish drilling out the knob/handle holes.
A view of how the drawer will look when the front is added. DO NOT add the drawer faces until the drawer is installed! See the previous step.
Cut the table top to the measurements indicated. The top will hang over the table by 1” on each long side and 2” on each short side. Secure to table frame using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws through pocket holes drilled on long sides of 20” aprons and supports. Remove one drawer at a time while attaching the top to keep the openings square.
Add nail-on furniture glides to bottom of legs, if desired. I’ve also used adjustable glides on my tables.
To finish the edges of the tabletop, use iron-on edge banding or sand the edges and leave them exposed.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability..
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the legs and aprons, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
