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Design / Studio
Pantone has revealed the color of the year for 2012: Tangerine Tango! PANTONE Color Number 17-1463. I'm curious…what do you think of this color? Love it? Hate it? Could Care Less? Fashion often dictates what we shall see in Home Decor, so here is what we can expect this season!
I adore that this season's color choices include neutrals like Driftwood and Starfish combined with a healthy dose of bright and neon. You know this here gal LOVES me some neon… and of course my blood runs in a nuetral palette, so I'm pretty much ecstatic about a few of these color choices!
Plans
I know you all love the smaller version of this piece and so we bring you the 'shelf' sized version! This collection is so great for organization! It can sit on the floor so little ones can reach it, and can be stacked to double the height and storage capability! It might even mount to a desk or dresser!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Safety Gear
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Table Saw
- Drill
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1/4 sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard measuring at least 18” x 34”
Materials
- 1- 1/4” pocket hole screws
- Iron On Edge Banding, if desired
- Wood filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Wood Glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 15” x 17-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Sides
- 1 – 15” x 35-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Bottom
- 1 – 12” x 35-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Shelf
- 1 – 10” x 37” of ¾” plywood – Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 15-1/4” – Lower Side Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 38-1/2” – Lower Trim
- 1 – 18” x 34” of ¼” lauan or hardboard for back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.
If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.
Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
**You will want to apply the edge banding to any exposed plywood edges before assembly ** Cut the pieces as indicated for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in the top of the sides for the top. You will have a left and a right.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides with pocket screws and glue, and with the bottoms being flush.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach with the spacing indicated.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap the sides by 1”. Attach the top to the sides through the pocket holes on the sides.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach the side trim first with glue and a brad nailer, then attach the front trim in the same manner. The bottom of the trim will be flush with the bottom of the shelf.
Cut the piece for the back from the ¼” material. Attach to the back with glue and brad nails
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site too! Handmade Holiday for all of your Holiday Parties, Decor, Recipes, and Gifts!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
This article may also be published at #bobvila and tidal.
DIY / Entertaining
Are you planning on having a fabulous little shindig for the coming New Year? These gorgeous Invitations should help you ring in the new year in style!
DOWNLOAD HERE
Plans
A very simple build, with big impact style and design! This piece is awesome for entryway home organization! Everything would have its own place, and of course the numbers on the doors could be replaced with letters or names, even pets names… So fun!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape measure
- Drill
- Safety Gear
- Kreg Jig
- Table saw and Miter, Jig, or Circular saw
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1- 1×2 at 8’
- 1-1/2 x 2 at 4’
- 2- scraps of 1×2 each at least 14-1/4” long
- 2- sheets** ¾” plywood
- 1- sheet** ¼” lauan or hardboard
- ** The doors can be made from beadboard paneling, too, but you will have to buy a sheet of ½” plywood for backing as the beadboard is generally ¼”.
- ** Scraps of lauan or hardboard can be used as long as the seams are hidden behind shelves or dividers!
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Countersink bit
- 4 – hinges
- 2 – handles
- Shelf pins
- Coat Hooks, if desired
- Numbers of your choice – Wood, stencils, etc.
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 15” x 70-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Sides
- 1 – 15” x 30-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Bottom
- 1 – 15” x 68” of ¾” plywood – Divider
- 1 – 15-1/2” x 32” of ¾” plywood – Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 14-1/4” long – Fixed Shelf Supports
- 2 – 14-1/4” x 15-5/8” – Fixed Shelves
- 1 – 32” x 70” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 30-1/4” – Lower Filler
- 1 – ½ x 2 at 32” – Lower Trim
- 2 – 1 x2 at 14-3/4” – Upper Trim
- 2 – 14-3/8” x 66-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Doors
- X – 14-1/4” x 15” – Adjustable Shelves – “X” is the quantity you choose!
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. Measure from the top and mark the holes for the shelf pins (for the adjustable shelves). Do not drill the holes completely through the board! Also, drill holes in the top of the side pieces for attaching the top.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom piece. Attach the bottom to the sides 1-1/2” up from each end with 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Step 2
Cut the top and attach to the sides with the back being flush and the front overlapping by ½”. Check for square.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Also, measuring from the top and using the same spacing as the sides, mark the holes for the shelf pins. These holes can be drilled all the way through the board so that the spacing is the same on both sides. Center it in the cabinet as indicated and secure with pocket screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Using a drill with a countersink bit, drill holes directly through the face of the supports and attach to the sides at 11” from the bottom with 1-1/4” screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the fixed shelves as indicated. Using a drill with a countersink bit, drill holes through the top of the shelves into the supports as indicated. Secure with 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the ¼” lauan or hardboard for the back. If you are using scrap pieces, make sure the seams will fall behind the shelves or divider. Secure with glue and brad nails.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the lower filler, the lower trim and the upper trim. Attach the lower filler with glue and brad nails to the front underside of the bottom, between the sides. Attach the trim piece to the front of this piece overlapping the sides with glue and brad nails. Attach the upper trim between the sides and the divider.
Step 8
Cut the pieces as indicated for the doors. The doors will have a 1/8” gap around all sides. Attach the hinges to the door and shim in place in the opening. Secure the hinges to the locker. Attach the handles to the doors.
Cut any additional shelves, as desired. Add coat hooks, also.
The numbers can be stenciled on and distressed for a vintage look. Painted wood or MDF cutouts would work well also. If building more than one locker cabinet, the lockers can be attached together with screws.
Finishing Instructions
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I wanted to write a quick intro for Eric’s Ann Marie Daybed Build and just thank him for this particular build! I am so honored when any one of you build from my plans, but this piece, and the entire Ann Marie Collection hold a very special place in my heart. This collection is my own design, and not a specialty retailer inspired collection and is named in honor of my Aunt Ann Marie who passed away very unexpectedly. Seeing Eric’s showcase photos of this beautiful bed, built for his daughter (with similar name… Ryan!) as a holiday surprise, has really hit home for me, and I just needed to say a very very public (love you guys) thank you!
Thank you for helping me fulfill a dream of mine, by allowing me to see my own furnture designs in homes across the country and around the world. I can’t begin to tell you how special that is to me. And thank you for (albeit accidentally) allowing that little special legacy in my Aunt’s honor live on… I hope your little girl adores this bed, and thank you for sharing with all of us… and now I will stop talking…. ha!
Eric’s Showcase:
“I finally have decided on color and what to do with the back so here they are! I can’t begin to tell you how much I appreciate your website and what it has allowed me to do!
Lumber Used
I made a few minor tweaks (due to my carpentry skills or lack there of) by putting drawer faces, pulls and a 7/16 sheet of plywood wrapped in material and padding for extra comfort.
I can’t wait to see my daughter’s face in the morning when she gets to go into her room. I hope I was able to put together what you had envisioned when designing this bed!”
Oh Trust me… you did!
Entertaining
I am loving this holiday decor in pale yellow, it’s so chic and so sweet. I’m prety sure I may head in this color direction next season! It’s simply divine…
Design / DIY / Home
I love these quick projects that help add a wintry touch to your home for the holidays…
Head on over to The DIY Club for the full tutorial and all the fabulous details! See you soon!
DIY / Entertaining
From Fabric to Fur and pretty much everything in between, here is a round up of some fabulous gift wrap ideas for this Holiday Season!
Design
I am loving the modern touch of the disco ball in these rooms. What could be more exciting than bringing a bit of le disco into your home?
Plans
Here is our version of the Carolina Craft Table but this time with the addition of interchangeable legs! The design is exactly the same as the original Carolina Craft Table but it is assembled in a different way to allow for the legs to be removed and replaced that way this table can grow with your little one!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Safety Gear
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- **1 – 3×3 Posts at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 1 – 1×4 at8’
- 1 – 1” Round Dowel Rod at 2'
- 1/4 sheet of 1/4” plywood
- Full sheet of 3/4” plywood
- **If 3×3 posts are not available in your area or are too expensive, 1×3 lumber can be face-glued to 2×3 lumber to create posts. Keep in mind that the depth will differ by 1/4” so the aprons need to be adjusted accordingly (longer by 1/2″ total).
- **Purchase 1 additional 1×3 at 8’ and 1 additional 2×3 at 8' for this step.
Materials
- 1 1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1 1/2” screws
- 1 1/4” spade bit or hole saw
- 1 1/2” brad nail
- Drawer knobs or handles
- Wood filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 3×3 at 22 1/4” (Legs)
- 1 – 1×4 at 40” (Long Apron)*
- 2 – 1×4 at 20” (Short Aprons)
- 4 – 1×4 at 23½” (Table Top Supports)
- 3 – 1×4 at 4” (Apron Pieces on Drawer End)
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 27”x49” (Top)
- 2 – 1×4 at 14” (Drawer Faces)
- 4 – 1×3 at 11½” (Drawer Sides)
- 4 – 1×3 at 13” (Drawer Box Fronts and Backs)
- 2 – 1/4″ plywood 13”x13” (Drawer Bottoms)
- ** If making your own posts from 1×3 lumber, add ½” the length of these pieces.
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.
If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless.
Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Using the saw of your choice, cut the top from ¾” plywood.
Step 2
Cut the apron pieces as listed above and add pocket holes to each end (sized for 3/4″ stock) and one of the long edges. (These will face to the inside.) Attach the aprons to the table top as indicated using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. The long aprons will have angle brackets attached to the ends which will attach to the legs. Because of the table supports and drawers, pocket holes will not work here. You will not be able to get the drill in the small space to add or remove screws when replacing the legs.
Don’t forget to use glue for an extra strong joint!
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the paper roll. Use a compass to draw a 1 1/4” radius on one end and cut out with a jig saw. Bore a 1 1/4” hole through each piece. Secure to one end of the table, at the short apron, by screwing it to the apron from the inside. You can also secure it with a brad nailer that shoots 1½” brads.
Step 4
Cut the top supports and add pocket holes to each end (sized for 3/4″ stock). Also add pocket holes to one long end of each board to secure the table top (sized for 3/4″ stock). Cut the 4” apron pieces that will be placed next to the drawers. Drill pocket holes in only two of these boards, on one end only so that the pieces can be mounted to the legs. You will build one “U” shaped box and two “L” shaped boxes. Space the supports on the long aprons as indicated and secure with glue/screws. The drawer slide hardware will be mounted on the lower end of these supports in each drawer opening.
Step 5
Cut and assemble the pieces for the drawer boxes. Attach 1/4” plywood to the bottom and secure with glue and brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the boxes but DO NOT attach the drawer faces until you have the drawers installed.
A quick and accurate way to line the faces up is to pre-drill the holes for the knobs or handles, line up the drawer face so it fits in the opening and put a screw through the holes into the drawer box. Pull the drawer out and fasten the face to the box from the inside. Finish drilling out the knob/handle holes.
A view of how the drawer will look when the front is added. DO NOT add the drawer faces until the drawer is installed! See the previous step.
Step 7
Cut the legs to the height that you choose – 14-1/4” for a finished table height of 15”, 22-1/4” for a finished table height of 23”, or 29-1/4” for a finished table height of 30”. Attach to apron with screws through the pocket holes and angle brackets.
Finishing Instructions
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Entertaining
Need gift tags? No problem! These colorful beauties are sure to make your gifts shine! DOWNLOAD HERE
Plans
Another piece for the Kenwood Collection… This piece would grow with your child. Just remove the topper and it could be storage for clothes or toys! It would be a good idea to sand each piece before assembly. This will make the finishing so much easier!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 15 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×8 at 6’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1/2 sheet of ¼” lauan, plywood or hardboard
Materials
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- 1¼” screws
- Small nails or 1” brads
- 1” angle brackets (6) with screws
- 2 – Strap Hinges
- 4 – Drawer Pulls
- 2 – narrow mending plates (to attach changing box to top)
- 2 – sets of 14” drawer slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 40” – Front & Back Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 40” – Front & Back Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 34-1/2” – Front & Back Frames
- 32 – 1×3 at 27-1/2” – Back Planks
- 2 – 1×2 at 15” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 15”- Side Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 34-1/4” – Side Frames
- 12 – 1×3 at 27-1/2” – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×2 at 40” – Drawer Frame
- 1 – 1×2 at 8” – Drawer Frame
- 3 – 2×2 at 18” – Drawer Slide Support
- 2 – 18” x 43-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Bottom & Shelf
- 1 – 19-3/4” x 45-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 18” – Shelf Supports
- 4-1×8 at 18-1/4” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 1×8 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 2 – 16” x 18-1/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – 7-3/4” x 19” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Fronts
- 4 – 1×3 at 15” – Door Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 16-1/4” – Door Frames
- 2 – 1×3** at 16-1/4” (ripped to 2-3/8” wide) – Door Frames
- 12 – 1×3 at 11-1/4” – Door Panels
- 2 – 1×4 at 45” – Topper Frame
- 2 – 1×4 at 18” – Topper Frame
- 1 – 18” x 45” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Topper Bottom
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project.
If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and
Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces as indicated for the Front and Back Frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material. Drill holes and assemble with glue and 1-1/4” screws.
Step 2
Cut the Back Panel pieces as indicated for the back frames. Assemble with glue and screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces as indicated for the Side Frames. Assemble with glue and screws, then add the Side Panel Pieces.
Step 4
Attach the Front and Back Frames to the Sides through the front of the frames into the sides using glue and a brad nailer. Fill the nail holes.
Step 5
Cut the plywood pieces for the Bottom and the Shelf. After making sure the cabinet is square, attach the bottom with 1-1/4” screws. The top face of the bottom should be level with the top of the front, side and back frames.
Cut the pieces for the Shelf Support and attach them with the spacing indicated. Attach the Shelf to the supports with 1-1/4” screws through the top of the shelf into the support.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the Drawer Frame. Attach to front as indicated.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the sides and the front by ¼”. Install the angle brackets to the inside, then secure the top.
Step 9
Cut the 2×2 pieces for the Drawer Slide Supports and install as indicated.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the Drawer Boxes from the 1×8 material. Construct the boxes and attach the bottoms with glue and a brad nailer. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the drawer boxes and to the supports inside the cabinet setting it ¾” back from the edge of the drawer frame to allow for the drawer front. Do not attach the drawer fronts until the drawers have been installed and any necessary adjustments have been made.
Step 11
Cut the pieces for the Drawer Fronts. Drill the holes through the piece for the handle. Insert the face into the opening and shim in place. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Insert screws through the holes for the handle into the boxes to temporarily attach the face to the drawer. Open the drawer and attach the drawer front to the front of the box from the inside. Remove the temporary screws through the holes on the front and finish drilling the holes for the handle.
Step 12
Cut the pieces for the Door Frames and assemble with 1-1/4” screws and glue. Insert the center panels. Lay the doors out, face up, with the 2-3/8” frame pieces in the center. Attach the hinges to the outside of the door frames. Insert the door into the opening and shim in place. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides except the center. If a gap is desired between the doors, lessen the gap between the sides of the door and the sides of the front frame. See Drawing.
Step 13
Cut the pieces for the Topper. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” screws. Attach the bottom with glue and a brad nailer. If desired, self-stick felt pads can be placed on the bottom to prevent marring on the top. Attach the topper to the cabinet by using small mending plates attached to the back of the topper as well as the back of the cabinet.
Finishing Instructions
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
