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DIY / Home
Those of you who have been with us here at TDC for a little while, will probably remember that credenza that used to live in the kitchen nook area. You can see a glimpse of it in the image above from the article I posted when I added the dining room chalkboard walls. And if you have continued to hang out with us here, you will also likely remember when I switched things up in the Nook to accomodate the Shelving you also see above, and to match the curtains I made here.
This credenza was in a bad bad way… Between the sun and constant hard use, she was starting to be more than just a little shabby around the edges. But she has good bones – no, she has great bones, and so was definitely overdo for a little tlc. Let me show you the little trip to rehab we made in between those other big projects…
I will surprise you later this week with the deets on exactly where this bad boy ended up, and what my overall plans for that room are, but for now let’s focus on the task at hand shall we? I thought that a nice driftwood stain or glaze would be a good way to add a bit of those gray tones I adore so much, to this piece. Turns out my local Home Improvement store only carries one variety of stain that can be tined to a driftwood color and doesn’t actually carry a stand alone driftwood stain. Shucks… I chose a Semi-Transparent (and probably shouldn’t have) and it was way to thick. You can see how opaque it appears from one light coat above. This stuff is thick and not very transparent at all. Eek. Back to the drawing board.
It just so happened that I purchased this tube of stain a while back with the intention of ‘testing it out’, since it claims to be a user friendly manner of staining. I thought that perhaps I would give this a shot to ‘fix’ the very gray and very thick stain application I had already applied. I guess I was hoping it would level out the gray and help me find a middle ground. Alas it did not. As you can see above it’s very much the color it claims to be and so I ended up with a very beautiful walnut with a touch of red mahoganny credenza. Beautiful indeed, but not where I was trying to go with this…
And so… in a moment of frustration and after 2 complete applications of stain on this beauty, I decided to try a mix of the two stain products to get that walnut with a slightly drifted look I wanted. I mixed the colors in a small dish with a 3:1 ratio of driftwood to walnut and then added a splash of water to lighten things up a bit and make it a tad more like a glaze.
I simply applied it with a ‘texture-less’rag (an old t-shirt piece to be exact) very sparingly so that I wouldn’t need to wipe away excess. That was another issue the thicker stain was causing… when you attempted to wipe away the excess it just globbed up and smeared since it was very fast drying in all it’s thick and sticky glory. One single application over the whole credenza using my shirt cloth and she was perfection! Can you see the walnut with slightly drifted hue in the image above? Well worth the extra 2 applications it took to get her just right. Though I definitely wish it has worked right out of the gate. I guess you win some and you lose some and the rest turns works itself out with a bit of extra elbow grease.
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Design / Shopping / Studio
His work speaks to me in colorful hues I enjoy so very much. There is a dreamy quality to his pieces that captures my attention and takes me to a far away place. If art should do anything it should be able to transport you to another time or perhaps another place, to take you by the hand and pull you from your wakeful state and into those parts of your mind you rarely get to explore. His work is affordable and would be an amazing addition to any homes decor, the greatest gift of all. I am fairly certain I adore every one of the pieces in Jeremy Miranda’s collection offered through Little Paper Planes.
Plans
This is a great desk your kiddo can use from preschool to college. The modern design is the perfect addition to any décor. Need more storage? No problem! Plans are coming soon for the Hutch that will attach to the top of the desk!
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- ½ sheet of ¾” plywood
- 4 – 3×3 posts, at least 29-1/4” long
- 1 – 2×3 at 8’ 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×12 at 8’ ½ sheet of ¼” ply, lauan, or hardboard
- 4 – 3×3 at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 21” x 21-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Sides
- 1 – 21-1/4” x 42-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Back
- 1 – 26 x 47-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Top
- 4 – 2×3 at 21” – Supports
- 1 – 25” x 42-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Shelf
- 1 – 3-3/4” x 25” of ¾” plywood – Divider
- 1 – 16” x 25” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Shelf
- 1 – 16-3/4” x 25” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Side
- 2 – 1×12 at 15” – Large Drawer Front & Back
- 2 – 1×12 at 20-1/2” – Large Drawer Sides
- 2 – 1×3 at 25” – Wide Drawer Front & Back
- 2 – 1×3 at 15” – Small Drawer Front & Back
- 4 – 1×3 at 20-1/2” – Wide & Small Drawer Sides
- 1 – 22” x 25” of ¼” ply, lauan, or hardboard for Wide Drawer Bottom
- 2 – 15” x 22” of ¼” ply, lauan, or hardboard for Small & Large Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – 3-1/2” x 25-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Wide Drawer Front
- 1 – 3-1/2” x 15-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Small Drawer Front
- 1 – 15-3/4” x 15-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Front
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.
If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.
Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the legs and sides as indicated. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the long edges of the sides. The sides will be attached to the legs at 1-1/2” from the inside edge. See Drawing.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes along the shorter edges and attach to the legs 1-1/2” from the inside. The back will sit ¼” away from the face of the legs on the outside.
Cut the pieces for the top. The top will be attached with glue and brad nails through the top face into the legs, sides and back..
Attach the supports to the inside of the legs with the spacing indicated. The Kreg jig will be set for 1-1/2” material. The face of the supports will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the shelf and the divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one long edge of the divider and in the short edges of the shelf. The divider will be attached to the shelf at the spacing indicated before the shelf is attached to the desk. The bottom of the shelf will be flush with the bottom of the dividers. Use a few brad nails to secure the divider through the top.
Cut the pieces for the large drawer shelf and side. Drill pocket holes in each long edge of the shelf and in one long edge of the side (to attach to the top). Attach the shelf to the side with pocket screws and glue before attaching to the desk. The bottom of the shelf will be flush with the bottom of the support.
Cut the pieces for the drawers and assemble as indicated. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the inside of the desk. The slides will need to be located 3/4″ away from the front edge to accomodate the drawer front. Do not attach the faces!
Pre-drill the holes in the drawer faces for the pulls. Insert each drawer front into the opening and shim in place. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides for ease in opening and closing the drawer. Screw the drawer fronts to the boxes from the front through the holes for the pulls. Open each drawer and fasten the fronts with screws from the inside of the drawer box, then remove the screws on the outside. Finish drilling out these holes for the pulls.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Studio / TDC
THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED! WINNER ANNOUNCED HERE!
I’m so excited to announce the first giveaway of 2012 and my partnership with Home Depot and Kwikset SmartKey Locks as part of the Kwikset SmartKey Lock Blogger Program! Here is why I’m excited about this program:
- Have you ever loaned out a key that was never returned, or would you like to be able to grant temporary access to neighbors or a contractor? The Home Depot can help. SmartKey rey-key technology is the solution. The Kwikset SmartKey lock gives homeowners the ability to quickly and easily re-key their own locks without removing them from the door.
- Increase your home’s safety and pick up a Kwikset SmartKey lock from The Home Depot today. SmartKey offers increased security and peace of mind because lost, loaned or unreturned keys become useless. It also offers one-key convenience for your home – you can re-key your front, back and side doors to the same Kwikset key.
- Kwikset SmartKey’s re-key technology features a patented side-locking bar, central to the locks’ ability to be rapidly and easily re-keyed. The bar replaces the traditional pin and tumbler design that is particularly vulnerable to increasingly popular lock-bumping attacks.
- Delivering outstanding strength and protection, SmartKey deadbolts have passed the most stringent lock picking standards and offer ANSI/BHMA certified Grade 1 security. Grade 1 security is the highest level of tested residential security available in the industry.
- Based on performance and features, Kwikset SmartKey deadbolts earned the prestigious Best Buy rating from Consumers Digest Magazine in the residential deadbolt lock category in February 2010.
- Kwikset SmartKey deadbolts can be purchased online at www.homedepot.com and at your local The Home Depot store.
Let’s Talk about the Giveaway shall we? Yahoo!
THE GIVEAWAY:
PRIZE: $50 Home Depot Gift Card
TO ENTER:
- You must be a follower of The Design Confidential in some way shape or form… this can mean you are a Subscriber, FB Fan, G+ Friend, or My Tweep. This is important because I will announce the winner and I will need you to know this so you can claim your prize!
Leave me a Comment on this post with the words ‘Keep Me Safe’ and mention how you follow along with this site (so I know how to find you)!
BONUS ENTRIES:
Share this Giveaway on: Your Blog, FB, G+, or Twitter and leave me a separate comment letting me know!
Follow The Home Depot on Facebook – Comment to let me know
Follow The Home Depot on Twitter – Comment to let me know
GIVEAWAY CLOSES: Sunday, January 8, Midnight PST
THE DEETS: Must be 18 years of age to enter and have a valid email address. Winner will be drawn at random using random.org from the comments on this post.
What are you waiting for…get commenting!
The Home Depot Disclosure Statement
The Home Depot partnered with bloggers such as me to help promote their KwikSet Lock product. As part of this promotion, I received compensation. They did not tell me what to purchase or what to say about the products. The Home Depot believes that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. The Home Depot’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.
TDC
I thought it was really interesting to take a look back through my statistics for 2011 and see which projects seemed the most popular as determined by all of you! Before I get started with the list, I want to say a big thank you to all of you fine folks who spend a bit of your day with me! I heart you guys and I appreciate you soooo much!
Here is a fabulous list of the top 10 Projects for 2011 in order of their popularity!
Entertaining / Home
It’s the very first day of 2012! I can hardly believe it… I hope you all had a fabulous New Year’s Eve! I for one plan to let this year begin on a fabulous footing and so I have decided upon a New Year’s Resolution that will hopefully help me keep sight of what’s important and where I want to be at any given moment in time for the coming year.
My 2012 New Year’s Resolution: To do more and plan less. Most people probably tend to include plan more but not me… I spend so much time writing this blog and planning projects that it’s difficult to actually find the time to do the projects.
This year is going to be about finding the balance between my projects and yours. I adore creating projects all of you request and will enjoy, but I am in desperate need of completing a few of my own projects, and the first on the list will be to streamline my home and everything in it.
I want to tackle each room in my house, and get rid of the old unnecessary things that are bogging me down and make them over with things I love and that make more sense for my space. This is very likely going to involve some tough decisions, perhaps even getting rid of things that mean a lot to me or that I have had for a very long time. But this is perfectly ok and I shall be fine because nothing is better than feeling fancy free and light of heart and for me this means less stuff, more organization and better every day solutions!
What about you? Did you make a resolution? Did you keep it simple this year or get crazy with some out of sight goals?
All images gathered from here and with their original sources!
Plans
And so, here we go again with bed number 2 for my Monster Mash boy! But you know what… that's perfectly alright because both are handmade and I can totally afford handmade! Beds are such an easy build too, it's almost as easy as a table only it sure packs a lot of bang for your buck, am I right? Beds seem to get those coveted oh's and ah's we all love to hear after spending countless minutes building something. Yep, I said minutes… that's about how long this bed took to build. Super Simple… best. kind. of. build. I will be posting plans for this bed in other sizes, so stay tuned if you are interested in those!
If you can't tell, that is my boy and his Jingle Dog giving me a round of applause… ha, he's such a funny little guy! He was also sure to tell me he was so proud of me for building so hard on his room and our house (which I definitely didn't build, but hey if the shoe fits… am I right?)
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Safety Gear
- Tape Measure
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – optional and not neccessary if you want your hardware to show
- Saw
Lumber
- 1 – 1×4 at 10' (have them cut this in half for you before you leave, it will transport more easily)
- 3 – 1×4 at 8'
Materials
- 2″ wood screws
- **1 1/4″ pocket hole screws – only if you are using a Kreg Jig for the slats
- 3/4″ self tapping screws
- 2 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ 90 degree metal edging at 4'
- 2 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ 90 degree metal edging at 2'
- 4 – 4″ locking swivel casters
Cut List
- 2 – 1×4 at 29 1/2″ Head and Foot
- 2 – 1×4 at 53″ Sides
- 7 – 1×4 at 28″ Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your box. I chose to use wood screws and countersink because I felt like it added to the industrial feel this bed is going for.
Step 2
Add the Bed Slats: you can attach using 2″ wood screws and glue by countersinking them (you can see an example of this below), or you can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. They should be spaced around 5″ apart or so. Be sure to place the top most and bottom most slat right up against the Head and Foot Board of this bed so you can easily attach the casters later.
Step 3
Attach the Metal Edging (I have no idea what this stuff is actually called, but you can find it at your local home improvement store and it's L shaped and 90 degrees) using your 3/4″ self tapping screws. You won't be able to countersink and predrill if you are screwing in tight and close to the edge of one of the holes. Your goal is to alternated which side of the hole you screw into and you are trying to overlap the screw head to it holds the edging in place. You can see a picture of this below. I have used 4 screws on the longer pieces and 3 on the shorter and alternated which side of the hole the screw is placed on so your edging can't slide in one direction or the other.
Center each metal piece on it's respective side.
Step 4
Attach the Casters: use the same 3/4″ self tapping scrws and overlap your screw heads to the caster plate in an alternating pattern just as you did in the previous step. They should sit in each corner. Mine required fastening in a horizontal manner to fit the caster plate properly, but since the casters swivel this isn't important.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Who doesn’t need a cube or trunk for storage? 2 of these at the end of a bed, or as unique storage coffee tables…This is such an easy project! It can be stained or painted, or even covered with your favorite fabric, wallpaper, or scrapbooking paper! Maybe even add hardware so it has the appearance of steamer trunks from a bygone era! Try using Asian reproduction hardware for something really fabulous! It can also be easily adjusted to a different size by increasing the length of the front, back, top, and bottom!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Table Saw
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood or MDF
Materials
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Iron on edge banding, if desired on exposed edges of plywood
- Hinges
- Handle or latch for front
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 20” x 20” pieces – Front & Back
- 2 – 18-1/2” x 20” pieces – Sides
- 2 – 18-1/2” x 18-1/2” – Top & Bottom
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.
If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.
Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
**If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to all exposed edges of the plywood before assembly ** Cut the pieces for the top and bottom.
Step 2
Attach the pieces for the sides to the top and bottom (making sure the edges are flush) with brad nails and glue. Do not use brad nails in the area where the top will be cut away! Check for square.
Step 3
Attach the front and back pieces with brad nails and glue, making sure all edges are flush. Again, do not use brad nails in the area where the top will be cut away!
Step 4
Please adhere to all safety guidelines when using a table saw. I find that a “spotter” (another person with me) is always helpful! Draw a line horizontally across the front 4” from the top. Draw Xs on this line – this way the front of the top can be easily matched to the front of the box when attaching the hinges. To create the top: set the rip fence on the table saw 4” away from the blade. The blade should be set high enough to cut through ¾” material. Run the box through the table saw with the top against the rip fence. Flip the box over with the cut facing you and run it through the table saw again. Now you will have two sides of the top cut away from the box. Repeat the cuts two more times. The fourth cut will separate the top from the box itself. Line up the Xs drawn before cutting and attach the hinges. Remove the hinges and finish the box as desired.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Entertaining
I don’t happen to be having a shindig, but I have plenty of belated Holiday Cards to send… and these are just perfect for the occasion!
DOWNLOAD HERE
Your place cards and food will sing out with glee from having these adorable tags along for the ride! DOWNLOAD HERE
Entertaining
A little glitz and glam for your New Year’s Eve! Everyone needs a bit of sparkle now and then, these 4 inspirational ideas are sure to help!
Plans
Another piece for the Kenwood Collection… This would be a great addition to a family room or playroom, also!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 12 – 1×4 at 6’
- 3 – 1×3 at 6’**
- 4 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
** A sheet of beadboard could be substituted if you didn’t want to assemble all of those 1x3s for the planked look! The beadboard is approx. ½” thick so adjust the depth of the top accordingly.
Materials
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- ¾ ” screws
- Small nails or 1” brads
- 1” angle brackets (6)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×2 at 11”- Side Frame
- 4 – 1×2 at 49¼”- Side Frame
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43¼”- Sides
- 12 – 1×4 at 46¼”- Back**
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 13 ”x 42”, Shelves & Bottom
- 1 – 1×2 at 38½” – Upper Front Frame
- 1 – 1×3 at 38½” – Lower Front Frame
- 1 – 1×3 at 49¼” – Front Frame Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15¼”x44” – Top
** If using beadboard for back, cut to 43½” x 46¼”
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the Side Frame and Sides. With the Kreg jig set for ¾” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the upper and lower frame pieces, as well as the side pieces, as indicated. Assemble with glue and screws.
Step 2
If you are going to assemble 1x4s for the back, cut all pieces to length, drill pocket holes, and assemble. The pocket holes do not have to be perfectly lined up. Attach to the inside of the side frames with screws. If you are using beadboard, cut the piece to the size indicated. Attach to the back of the side frames with glue and small nails or a brad nailer.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelves and bottom. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shelves and bottom. Attach the bottom and check cabinet for square before installing the shelves. Attach the shelves with the spacing indicated.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the Face Frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the upper frame piece and the lower frame piece. Attach to cabinet front using glue and small brads or a brad nailer.
Step 5
Install 1” angle brackets to inside of cabinet for the top – One on each side, and two on the front and back. Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the front frame and sides by ¼”. Screw through the hole in the brackets into the underside of the top.
Finishing Instructions
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability. If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly. Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / DIY / Entertaining
Dine in Style this year, with these drop dead gorgeous Celebration Menus!
DOWNLOAD HERE
Wow your guests and Decorate with this adorable bunting printable!
DOWNLOAD HERE
