[carousel-horizontal-posts-content-slider]
Plans
That's right… you guessed it! This project marks the beginning of a new collection, and a fabulous one at that! Modern clean lines, mod sensibilities, and of course the greatest thing about this collection is it's relative building ease. Yep, it's pretty straightforward and definitely simple. Yahoo.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- ½ sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 4-4×4 at 4” each
- 1/4” plywood measuring 20-1/4” x 61”**
- ** Scraps of ¼” plywood can be used… Make sure seams are hidden behind the shelves so they cannot be seen! **
Materials
- 1 ½” pocket hole screws
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- 2” screws
- 1 ¼” screws
- Small nails or 1¼” brads
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Edge banding, optional
- 1 sets drawer slides
- One pair of hinges
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 14-3/4” x 57” of ¾” plywood – Sides
- 6 – 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Shelves
- 2 – 1×4 at 13-1/4” – Base
- 2 – 1×4 at 8-1/8” – Base
- 4 – 4×4 at 4” – Base Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 17-3/4” – Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×3 at 11-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – 3-3/4” x 18-1/2”of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
- 1 – 17-3/4” x 18-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Door
- 1 – 20-1/4” x 57” of ¼” plywood – Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
** If using edge banding, apply it to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly**
Cut the pieces for the sides and all of the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 14-1/2” ends of the shelves. Starting with the top, attach the shelves to the tower box with the spacing as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Attach the back with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. If using multiple scraps for the back, make sure the seams are hidden behind the shelves!
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and construct the drawer as shown. The bottom will be attached with glue and brad nails. The drawer slides will need to be located ¾” back from the front edge to allow for the drawer front. Install the drawer slides and make any adjustments necessary.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Cut the notch in the center of each drawer front with a jigsaw. Shim the drawer front in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and fasten to the drawer box with 1-1/4” screws from the inside.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the door. Cut the notch with a jigsaw and attach the hinges to the door. Shim the door in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door) and attach the hinges to the tower
Cut the pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the base pieces. Attach the base pieces to the legs. Attach the base to the bottom of the cabinet using countersunk 1-1/4” screws and with a 1” “border” around all sides of the base.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Entertaining
A fun and simple way to seduce your sweetheart through his or her tastebuds… The flirtini will surely set the mood for a romantic and flirty Valentine’s Night Celebration…
The Recipe:
- Equal Parts Champagne or Sparkling Wine and Pink Lemonade
- A Splash of Chambord (to taste)
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Plans
This table is perfect for using weathered or reclaimed pieces of wood, even scraps you may already have! You might even cut the table top pieces to fit the shorter width. Or for a fun pattern play, with two panels that run lengthwise and the other two could run width-wise or cut your inset pieces from different species of wood even! How fabulous would that be?
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 2 – 4×4 at 6’
- 7 – 2×4 at 8’
- Assorted 1x2s, 1x3s, and 1x4s each at least 31” long or
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 4 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 4 – 4×4 at 28-1/2”- Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 30” – Aprons
- 2 – 2×4 at 58” – Aprons
- 3 – 2×4 at 34” – Frame Supports
- 2 – 2×4 at 65” – Top Frame
- 2 – 2×4 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
- 2 – 2×4 at 30-3/4” – Top Frame
- 1 – 2×4 at 33-1/2” – Top Frame
- 12 – 1×3 at 15” – Frame Supports
- 8 – 1×2 at 30-1/2” – Panel
- 8 – 1×3 at 30-1/2” – Panel
- 8 – 1×4 at 30-1/2” – Panel
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the legs with the taper as indicated.
Cut the aprons as indicated. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces. Attach to the legs with 2-1/2” screws and with the taper facing the long side. Make sure the apron is flush with the outside facing edges of the legs.
Cut the frame supports as indicated. Drill pocket holes in each end of the support and also along one long end of each board to attach the table. Secure to the inside of the frame as shown with 2 1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top frame and assemble with 2-1/2” pocket hole screws as shown.
Cut the pieces for the top supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end. Attach to the top frame with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the bottom of the supports is flush with the bottom of the frame.
Cut the pieces for the panels. The pieces can be arranged in a random order but each panel needs to have 2 – 1x2s, 2 – 1x3s, and 2 – 1x4s in order to fit into the 15” opening. It would be a good idea to finish the panels before attaching them to the top in case there are gaps in between the boards.
Drill countersunk holes in the frame supports of the top from the underside. Secure the panel pieces to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” screws.
Secure the top to the table frame with 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the frame supports of the table into the frame supports of the top. The ends of the table will overlap by 3-1/2”, and the sides will overlap by 1”.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Plans
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Safety Gear
- Tape Measure
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – optional and not neccessary if you want your hardware to show
- Saw
Lumber
- 3 – 1×6 at 8' (have them cut this in half for you before you leave, it will transport more easily)
- 5 – 1×4 at 8'
Materials
- 2″ wood screws
- **1 1/4″ pocket hole screws – only if you are using a Kreg Jig for the slats
- 3/4″ self tapping screws
- 2 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ 90 degree metal edging at 6'
- 2 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ 90 degree metal edging at 4'
- 4 – 4″ locking swivel casters
Cut List
- 2 – 1×6 at 41 1/2″ Head and Foot
- 2 – 1×6 at 76″ Sides
- 10 – 1×4 at 40″ Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your box. I chose to use wood screws and countersink because I felt like it added to the industrial feel this bed is going for. The next step has an example of what a countersink bit will do for you!
Step 2
Add the Bed Slats: you can attach using 2″ wood screws and glue by countersinking them (you can see an example of this below), or you can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. They should be spaced around 5″ apart or so. Be sure to place the top most and bottom most slat right up against the Head and Foot Board of this bed so you can easily attach the casters later.
Step 3
Attach the Metal Edging (I have no idea what this stuff is actually called, but you can find it at your local home improvement store and it's L shaped and 90 degrees) using your 3/4″ self tapping screws. You won't be able to countersink and predrill if you are screwing in tight and close to the edge of one of the holes. Your goal is to alternated which side of the hole you screw into and you are trying to overlap the screw head to it holds the edging in place. You can see a picture of this below. I have used 4 screws on the longer pieces and 3 on the shorter and alternated which side of the hole the screw is placed on so your edging can't slide in one direction or the other.Center each metal piece on it's respective side.
Step 4
Attach the Casters: use the same 3/4″ self tapping scrws and overlap your screw heads to the caster plate in an alternating pattern just as you did in the previous step. They should sit in each corner. Mine required fastening in a horizontal manner to fit the caster plate properly, but since the casters swivel this isn't important.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Another piece for the Oak Park Elementary Collection… This would be a great addition to a family room or craft room, also! The mod lines of this piece will blend perfectly with any modern decor or vintage decor!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- 4 – 4×4 scraps at 4” long
Materials
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- 1 ¼” screws
- 2 ½” screws
- Small nails or 1” brads
- Countersink bit for Drill
- 4 – back to back wrap-around hinges
- 2 – handles
- Edge banding, if desired
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 13-1/4” x 48” of ¾” plywood – Sides
- 1 – 13” x 35-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Bottom
- 1 – 13” x 34” of ¾” plywood – Lower Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 12-1/4” – Lower Shelf Supports
- 1 – 10-3/8” x 34” of ¾” plywood – Middle Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 10-3/8” – Middle Shelf Supports
- 1 – 7-3/4” x 34” of ¾” plywood – Top Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 7-3/4” – Top Shelf Supports
- 1 – 35-1/2” x 48-3/4” of ¼” plywood – Back
- 2 – 16-1/4” x 16-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Doors
- 2 – 2×4 at 29-1/2” – Base
- 2 – 2×4 at 7” – Base
- 4 – 4×4 at 4” – Legs
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.
If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.
Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
** If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly. **
Cut the pieces for the sides as indicated. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom of each side.
Cut the piece for the bottom and attach to the sides with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the lower shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated in the drawing with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. They will need to be located ¾”
Cut the piece for the lower shelf. Attach to the shelf supports with glue and countersunk screws through the top of the shelf.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the middle shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated in the drawing and in the same manner as the lower shelf supports.
Cut the piece for the middle shelf. Attach to the shelf supports in the same manner as the lower shelf.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the top shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated in the drawing and in the same manner as the lower and middle shelf supports.
Cut the piece for the top shelf. Attach to the shelf supports in the same manner as the middle and lower shelves.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the back from the ¼” plywood. Check the cabinet for square and adjust as necessary. Attach to the back of the cabinet with glue and brad nails.
Cut the 2×4 and 4×4 pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4s. Attach the 2x4s to the 4×4 legs with 2-1/2” screws.
Attach the base to the bottom of the bookcase by drilling countersunk screws through the bottom of the bookcase into the base frame.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. It may be easier in this case to attach the hinges to the cabinet, then attach the doors to the hinges. Mark the placement for the handles and attach them to the doors.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / DIY
When I go to that happy place inside my head, I often imagine myself in the garden planting or enjoying the fruits of my labor…quite literally…fruits and vegetables to be exact. Unfortunately that fabulous day dream comes ot a screaching halt the second I drift back into reality and realize that having one of the smallest actual backyards known to man…has it’s inconsistencies with my gardening whims.
It would appear I am in luck though since a few of this years gardening trends seem to make my dream possible and use a smaller footprint.
Hail to the G… G as in Garden that is.
The image above is just one of those examples in that it allows for a large fruit producing tree to be trained against a flat wall and planted no more than a foot from exterior walls! Can you see the lightbulb clicking on in this old head of mine? Espalier, a term that suggests just such a training method for large trees is not a new idea, but I imagine it’s typically used for more decorative purposes…. until now! Yahoo.
It seems as though it may take a while to ge to this point, but the mere fact that large trees in small yards is an option is pretty much akin to sliced bread for this gal!
The skinny apple! Otherwise known as Urban Columnar Apples and they have no larger than a 24″ footprint! Can you imagine that with 10 square feet you can actually have 5 apple trees? That’s practically an orchard in these parts!
While a large chicken coop is not in the cards for me, the notion that most CC&R’s actually allow for chickens gives me the goose bumps. It’s true in fact, and with a bit of research and question asking of the powers that be, what you will likely find is that Chickens are considered a domestic animal and so as long as you aren’t harboring a Rooster with noise pollution tendencies, you are very likely able to have your very own miniature working farm! Can I get a yahoo? Yahoo!
There are even miniature coop options for those of us with more urban size yards, that will house 1 to 2 chickens and take up hardly any space at all!
Eco Friendly gardening is something to consider regardless of the size yard you have. First and foremost because it will very likely save you money and require a bit less maintenance.
Even with the ‘smallest yard known to man’ I still very much dislike the weekly chores that come with the gardening territory like weeding, watering, and… well I’m sure there others but frankly I avoid them so frequently I couldn’t really tell you what they are! ha!
Finding low maintence, low water plantings that tend on the larger side is a very good option for folks like me who are likely to forget that the yard even exists for a few weeks at a time at any given time of the year. eek! Something I will be looking into this coming season is the idea of replacing my 8’x16′ patch of grass with the non-living, non bug attracting, and not so muddy variety. Let’s just say the drainage plan for this here yard leaves a lot to be desired and the bees are not such a welcome visitor with kiddos and dogs. It seems the bees around here enjoy the grass more than the plants… who knew?
What about you? Do you have any gardening goals for the coming year?
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Plans
This trunk is a great piece to use as a coffee table or at the foot of your bed. It's a stylish storage option that packs a lot of punch. Based on the Pottery Barn trunk with the same name.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Circular Saw
- Miter Saw
- Drill
- Countersink Bit
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 10 – 1 x 4 x 8
- 2 – 1 x 3 x 8
- 3 – 2 x 2 x 8
- 2 – 1 x 2 x 8
- 1/2 sheet of 3/4″ ply
Materials
- 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
- 2″ screws
- 1 1/4″ finish nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Finishing Supplies
- 1 set of decorative hinges
- 1 hasp
- 1 set of handles of your choice
- about 24″ of chain (optional)
Cut List
- 12 – 1 x 4 @ 46 1/2″ (front and back planks)
- 12 – 1 x 4 @ 18″ (side planks)
- 3 – 1 x 4 @ 45″ (top planks)
- 3 – 1 x 3 @ 45″ (top planks)
- 4 – 2 x 2 @ 14 1/4″ (interior supports)
- 2 – 2 x 2 @ 45″ (lengthwise supports)
- 4 – 2 x 2 @ 18 (lid supports)
- 2 – 1 x 2 @ 48″ (front and back trim)
- 2 – 1 x 2 @ 19 1/2″ (side trim)
- 3/4″ ply @ 18″ x 45″
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.
If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.
Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Using pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, create two planks using five of your long plank boards, each.
Step 2
Create the short sides of the trunk by screwing 5 of the side boards to two 2 x 2 interior supports. Measure 1 1/2″ from the top of the top board, and use 2″ screws, screwing in through the 2 x 2.
Do this twice.
Step 3
Create the main box by screwing the long boards to the 2 x 2s from the inside with 2″ screws.
Step 4
Create the top of the lid by planking the 1 x 3s & 1 x 4s in your desired order, using pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Make sure to predrill holes around the outsides of the plank so that you can attach the sides of the lid.
Step 5
Attach the short sides of the lid first with the last two side planks using pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Attach the front and back planks to the lid using pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Turn the main box over and attach the bottom by screwing into the 2 x 2s in all four corners, and using pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step 8
Attach the lengthwise supports using 2″ screws and screwing from the inside of the 2×2 to the outsides of the box and into the corner supports.
Step 9
Attach the side trim first, using glue and 1 1/4″ finish nails.
Step 10
Attach the front and back trim using glue and 1 1/4" finish nails
Step 11
Before attaching the lid to the box, screw in your lid supports by screwing through the 2 x 2s with 2″ screws.
Step 12
Attach your desired hardware. If your hinges don't support the lid, attach chain so the lid doesn't fly backwards.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Home
I'm really excited to bring you the first in a series (of 12) calendar pages! Print them out to use, or paste them up as your desktop wallpaper. We even have a version for your IPad or IPhone… Get going on your New Year's organizational goals and download these wintry prints to keep you in line!
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Plans
I pretty much adore this buffet! Absolutely adore it! The reclaimed wood look can be achieved by “abusing” it with a hammer, nail holes, chain, etc., leaving it out in the rain, or perhaps even a faux reclaimed finish would be fabulous. This piece would be an amazing island in a kitchen or used for storage in a family room!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2-1×12 at 8’
- 3 – 2×3 at 8’
- 5 – 3×3 posts at 3’
Materials
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- 1 ½” pocket hole screws
- 2 ½” pocket hole screws
- 1 ¼” screws
- Small nails or 1 ¼” brads
- Countersink bit for Drill
- 4 – drawer handles
- 4 – 1” wide angle brackets, optional
- Center mount drawer slides – I recommend Accuride 1029, 17”- Rockler part no. 32557
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 70-1/2”- Front and Back Top Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 20” – Side Top Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 30-3/4” – Drawer Support
- 2 – 1×2 at 15” – Drawer Slide Support
- 4 – 1×3 at 30” – X Braces
- 2 – 1×3 at 64” – Back
- 4 – 1×12 at 30-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 4 – 1×12 at 15-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 4 – 2×3 at 15” – Sides
- 2 – 2×3 at 64” – Shelf Supports
- 2 – 2×3 at 30-3/4” – Shelf Supports
- 5 – 3×3 at 33-1/2” – Legs
- 1 – 12-1/2” x 64” of ¾” plywood – Back
- 2 – 20” x 69” of ¾” plywood – Tops
- 2 – 12-1/4” x 30-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – 15” x 64” of ¾” plywood – Shelf
- 2 – 15-1/2” x 29” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Bottoms
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the legs to length and cut the 2×3 pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3s. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the 1×3 pieces for the X braces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the drawing. Assemble with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the plywood and 1×3 pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in the long edges of the plywood and in each end of the 1x3s. Assemble with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown in the first drawing, then attach to sides with 1-1/2” pocket holes screws as shown in the second drawing.
Step 4
Cut the 1×3 pieces for the front. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the drawer and drawer slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of all supports. Attach to legs with 1-1/2” pocket hole screws and to the back as shown using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the 2×3 pieces for the shelf supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and attach the supports to the legs with 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the plywood piece for the shelf. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back of the shelf. Attach to the supports with 1-1/2” pocket screws making sure the top of the shelf is flush with the top of the supports.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and the sides. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom pieces and the two shorter edges of the sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes for the sides will need to face the inside of the drawer box so they don’t show through the X braces.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the drawer box front and back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the drawer slides to the slide supports following the manufacturer’s instructions. The slides will be attached ¾” back from the front edge of the drawer support to allow for the drawer front.
Install the drawer boxes and make any necessary adjustments but do not attach the drawer fronts.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the holes for the handle placement and drill the holes all the way through the front. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Shim the drawer front in place and drill screws through the holes for the handles into the drawer box. Open the drawer and secure the front to the box from the inside. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Step 11
Cut the two pieces of plywood for the top. Attach the lower top to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws into the top piece of the back, sides and front. Attach the second top to the first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
If angle brackets on the corners of the top are desired, the can be attached “as is” or primed and spray painted in the finish you choose.
Step 12
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the trim. Attach the sides first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Home
I decided to bring a bit of nature into my boy’s room. He adores animals, birds, fish, and anything living, so he loves being able to have these fine feathered friends around while he snoozes! Head on over to The DIY Club to see the installation process! See you soon…
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
DIY / Home
I quite literally ran to my nearest Home Depot to pick out my Kwikset SmartKey Lock. You see I saw this beauty online and knew it was perfect for us! We head outdoors as often as we can and for me going on a run or walk and having to bring the keys is such a pain! This particular beauty solves that problem by allowing me a programable code to unlock the door and a quick press button to lock her on up! Fabulous…
This locking system took me maybe 30 minutes total to install. It might have taken far less time if I wasn’t attempting to install it while wrangling a kiddo and 2 dogs in the hopes they wouldn’t escape! Eek. First things first, to install a new lock, we must remove the existing lock.
This was much easier than I expected. Simply unscrew and pop that guy out of there!
Once your existing hardware has been removed you need to measure from the center of your opening to the edge of your door to determine if you need to increase the length of your deadbolt. If not… then place your lock into the opening and screw in place.
You will need to remove the battery pack from the interior assembly to make sure you have your tiny settings set to the proper on and off options and then you will place the adapter in the door opening to help accomodate the exterior assembly.
You will run the connecter wire from the exterior assembly through the adapter and inside through the mounting plate. Use your key in the exterior assembly to line things up to insert the torque blade into the crank. You will then install and secure the exterior assembly by attaching with screws through the mounting plate.
Insert the battery pack while pressing and holding the LOCK button on the keypad. Do not release until you hear 2 beeps sound. Now you are free to program your unique code for unlocking the door. Yahoo! We set 8 digit codes for ours and I set up 2 codes, one for me and one for the hubs!
I am so excited about this locking system, not only for the convenience of locking and unlocking with a key in hand but also the rekey feature this system has to keep us safe when we need to hand out a key to another perosn for any reason. I couldn’t be happier with this and now I need to get started refinishing my front door. This project only managed to really draw attention to the lack of paint where the former lock used to live, eek! Stay tuned for that project coming in the very near future!
For more information on these products Browse and Follow Home Depot:
The Home Depot Disclosure Statement
The Home Depot partnered with bloggers such as me to help promote their KwikSet Lock product. As part of this promotion, I received compensation. They did not tell me what to purchase or what to say about the products. The Home Depot believes that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. The Home Depot’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.
Plans
We covered the plans for the desk and this matching hutch is another exciting addition to the Oak Park Elementary Inspired Collection! A great way to add some extra storage without taking up extra square footage… just go vertical!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Safety Gear
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Materials
- 1- 1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1- 1/2” pocket hole scrws
- 1- 1/2” brad nails
- Iron On Edge Banding
- Wood filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 13” x 30-1/2” – Sides
- 1 – 28-1/2” x 45-3/4” – Back
- 2 – 7-1/2” x 45-3/4” – Shelves
- 2 – 6” x 7-1/2” – Dividers
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.
If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.
Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
**You will want to apply the edge banding to any exposed ply wood edges before assembly ** Cut the pieces for the sides as indicated in the drawing. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge of each side. Don’t forget there will be a left and a right! The pocket holes to connect the hutch to the desk may be drilled on the inside or outside and filled later if you desire.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back and and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Attach to the straight edge of the sides with pocket screws and glue.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelves and the dividers. Drill pocket holes at each end of the shelves. Attach the upper shelf to the sides as indicated with screws and glue.
Step 4
Attach the dividers to the lower shelf using a brad nailer with the spacing indicated. Secure the assembly to the sides with pocket screws maintaining the 6” spacing from the upper shelf. Secure the dividers to the top shelf with a brad nailer.
Step 5
Attach the hutch to the desk using 1-1/2” screws with the back edge flush, and ¼” spacing on the sides. Instead of drilling pocket holes, angle brackets can also be used to secure the hutch.
Finishing Instructions
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability. If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
