Every one of these office space examples is entirely different, but they all have one very pleasing common thread. They all have high contrast design elements – lot's of light and dark to be seen here. There is something so pleasing to me about these spaces that I am currently rethinking many of my own design choices for my Home Office Craft Space, not to mention for every other room in my home. It's always been my belief that the most well designed spaces all have a touch of black and white and a mix of materials that range from modern to rustic or vintage. Now I think I can show you why that is…
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod Oak Park Elementary Inspired Twin Bed
02.06.12This is a such a fabulous new collection we’ve added here at TDC. The clean lines and simplicity make these pieces easy and quick to build! To see the other pieces that match, head to the Plan Index and use the menu sorting box to choose Oak Park Collection!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$25-$50
- Safety Gear
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Table Saw
- Drill
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 4×4 posts at 6’ (if your store doesn’t sell these in 4′ sizes, you will need 3 of these)
- 1 – 4×4 post at 4’ (if your store sells in this size)
- 2- 1×2 at 6’
- 5 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Iron On Edge Banding, if desired
- 2 – 2” or 3” angle backets
- Spray paint to match stain or paint
- 1 set of bed hardware – I recommend Rockler Surface Mounted Keyhole Brackets, part no. 32077
- Wood filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 4×4 at 37” – Headboard Sides
- 1 – 4×4 at 45-3/4” – Headboard Top
- 2 – 4×4 at 16” – Footboard Sides
- 1 – 23-1/4” x 37-3/4” of ¾” plywood for Headboard Panel
- 1 – 7-1/2” x 37-3/4” of plywood for Footboard Panel
- 2 – 1×2 at 69-1/4” – Slat Support
- 2 – 7-1/2” x 72-1/4” of ¾” plywood for Side Rails
- 10 – 1×3 at 39-3/4” ** – Slats **Measure spacing between rails before cutting!
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
**You will want to apply the edge banding to any exposed ply wood edges before assembly
** Cut the pieces as listed for the headboard and footboard.
The headboard top will be fastened to the sides with angle brackets. It is a good idea to spray paint the angles to match your finish prior to assembly. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges of the plywood panel for the headboard. Also drill pocket holes in the shorter edges of the plywood panel for the footboard. The panels will be attached at the center of each post.
Cut the pieces for the side rails and attach the 1×2 slat support as indicated with the bottoms being flush. The ends of the slat support should be located 1-1/2” away from the ends of the side rail.
Attach the bed hardware per the package instructions. If there are no instructions, go here: and click the More Info tab for a diagram.
Cut ten 1×3 pieces for the slats. Measure the spacing between the rails first before cutting. Attach the slats, evenly spaced, with 1-1/4” screws through the slat into the support.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability. If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Sams Club Big Game Sweepstakes
02.03.12Whether you are fans of the pigskin or not, chances are you will be in front of the TV on Super Bowl Sunday, chowing down amongst friends when the Giants and the Patriots go head to head. So, while the players are revving up their engines for the Big Game, party planners and cooks nationwide are revving up their menus. To simplify the process, Sam’s Club is here to help you fulfill all your entertaining needs!
Additionally, Sam’s Club is offering you a chance to win big for the Big Game. Enter the Big Game Sweepstakes for a chance to win a prize package comprised of a big-screen TV and gear for the perfect tailgating party.
Could you D.I.E.? Huge right?
- Since a well-stocked cupboard makes meal planning a breeze, Sam’s Club has all the essentials the average kitchen whiz needs to whip up a delectable spread: fresh produce and meats, condiments and sauces, canned goods, baking items and more. For Gameday favorites, check out a list of recipes here.
- Cooking impaired? Sam’s Club has quick and easy solutions sure to please your guests’ palates, with a vast selection of appetizers and snacks, both sweet and savory.
- Yelling at the TV can surely work up a strong thirst. Keep the mega fans hydrated with Sam’s Club’s wide variety of soda, juice, bottled water and spirits.
- Because you’d hate for your fine china to take “the fall” when the game takes a turn for the worse, stock up on paper plates, napkins and plastic cutlery from Sam’s Club.
- Bring the field to your living room for a truly memorable experience this year; this is the perfect excuse to indulge in that high definition television you’ve been admiring for months. And with Sam’s Club prices, you simply can’t say no.
- For all the messes created during especially exciting plays, Sam’s Club has you covered with a plentiful supply of paper towels, garbage bags and, of course, rug cleaner.
- Additionally, Sam’s Club is offering you a chance to win big for the Big Game. Enter the Big Game Sweepstakes for a chance to win a prize package comprised of a big-screen TV and gear for the perfect tailgating party.
Disclosure: Sam's Club has partnered with bloggers such as me to help spread the word about this amazing prize package. I may have been compensated in some way shape or form to sponsor this post, however all opinions (where necessary) are expressly my own!
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a CB2 Inspired Expandable Pocket Dining Table
02.03.12An easy to build, expandable, and stylish piece, this table is sure to be a new favorite of mine! Don’t you love the convenience of an expandable table? Me too. Especially in a home where my furniture is already filling the place to the brim.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink bit for drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2 – 2×2 at 4’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- 1½” pocket hole screws
- 1” screws
- 2 sets of 12” drawer slides (I recommend Blum Low Profile Slides part no. 3732 @ Rockler.com)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 33” – Aprons
- 2 – 2×2 at 48” – Side Aprons
- 2 – 23-3/16” x 32-3/4” pieces of ¾” plywood – Top
- 2 – 1×3 at 32-3/4”, ripped to 2” wide – Top Aprons
- 2 – 1×2 at 18” – Slide Supports
- 1 – 24” x 32-3/4” – Leaf
- 2 – 1×2 at 4” – Leaf Connectors
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Using the 2×2 pieces, cut the legs as indicated. Set the Kreg jig for 1½”material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each piece.
Cut the pieces for the sides. They will overlap the top of the legs by 1-1/2”. Use glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer slides to the insides of each assembly. They should be located ¾” back from the side edge. See drawing.
Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the aprons ¾” down from the top of the leg with the face flush with the face of the legs. Use glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top and the top aprons. Attach an apron to one 32-3/4” edge of each top piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Attach to the underside of the table top locating one end flush with the front apron and 3/8” back from the side. See drawing.
Attach the drawer slide to the outside face of the slide support on the top. The end of the drawer slide should be flush with the inside of the table top apron. There will be a 1/8” gap around the sides and in the center of the tops.
Cut two 1×2 pieces to use as connectors to keep the top from sliding apart. These pieces will serve dual-duty as they will be used to secure the leaf in place once inserted. Drill two countersunk holes in each piece and fasten in place with 1” screws. Do not use glue! Even though it isn’t shown in the picture, it would be a good idea to use four connectors – two at each end, staggered so they don’t hit each other.
Cut the piece for the leaf. To insert leaf, remove one screw from each connector making sure they are opposite of each other. In other words, do not remove a screw on the same side, one connector will need to stay attached to each top piece. Insert the leaf and reinsert the screws in the connectors to hold in place. See Drawing.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post please PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
28 Sweet Valentines Day Treats
02.02.12If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Builders Showcase: Vintage Workshop Storage Bench
02.01.12I just finished this last night. It's a modified version of the Vintage Workshop Storage Bench. I added some length to make it 48″ wide. Also added a top rail under the seat just because I thought it looked nice. I'll be making some wooden crates to fit into the 3 cubby holes underneath!
I'm liking how it turned out. Thanks for the inspiration. 🙂
I used only wood that I had on hand (3 old 2X6's, 1-2X2 and 2 1X2's), so it was essentially free to build.
I finished it with Mission Oak Polyshade.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Seaton Console
02.01.12A fabulous way to flank your sofa on the backside, or line your entryway, this console table provides that little something extra in style and function!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$25-$50
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2– 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 – piece of ¼” lauan or hardboard measuring 13-3/4” x 66-1/2”
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- 1½” pocket hole screws
- 2½” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Hole saw or spade bit for power cord holes (optional)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 16” – Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 21” – Side Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 63-1/2” – Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 22” – Top Supports
- 2 – 1×3 at 23” – Lower Supports
- 1 – 1×3 at 68” – Lower Support
- 4 – 2×2 at 3-1/4” – Feet
- 1 – 24” x 66-1/2” piece of ¾” plywood – Top
- 3 – 10” x 12” pieces of ¾” plywood – Cubby Supports
- 1 – 10” x 66-1/2” piece of ¾” plywood – Cubby Top
- 1 – 13-3/4” x 66-1/2” piece of ¼” lauan or plywood – Cubby Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 24” – Lower Trim Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 68” – Lower & Upper Trim Fronts
- 2 – 1×2 at 10-1/4” – Upper Trim Sides
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each of the apron pieces. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws making sure the face of the aprons are set back ¼” from the face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the aprons at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the leg supports. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the shorter supports to form a U shape. The shorter pieces will extend past the front of the legs by ¾” and past the sides of the legs by ¾”. The back should fit the same way with a ¾” “border” on the side and back. Attach to the legs with glue and a couple of brad nails in each leg.
Cut the pieces of 2×2 for the feet. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of the feet. Attach to the supports using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws so they go through the supports and into the legs. They will be lined up with the legs, in other words, the front feet will have a ¾” “border” on the front and sides, and the back legs will have a ¾” “border” on the sides and back.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach the top to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the legs, aprons, and supports. The top will overlap the aprons by ¼” but will be flush with the faces of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the cubby supports and top. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each 10” end of the supports. The cubby will be located ¼” in from the back edge to allow for the back piece. Attach the top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws, then attach to table in the same manner.
Cut the ¼” lauan or hardboard piece for the back. Attach to the back of the cubby with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The back will extend ¼” past the top of the cubby. Use a hole saw or spade bit to drill holes in the back for power cords, if desired.
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower side trim. The top of each side piece will be located ¼” above the cubby top and the table top. Attach to the sides of the cubby and the table top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the front trim. Make sure the tops of the pieces are flush with the side trim pieces. Attach to the front of the cubby and table in the same manner.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post please PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
New Year New Art: How to Make Your Own Home Decor Artwork
01.31.12When purchasing art isn’t an option or you aren’t able to find just the right thing, creating your own is entirely possible even if you have never touched a paint brush… I promise!
Here is what you will need to create something similar to the example painting above…
Materials:
- 16 x 20 canvas
- Brushes – I used 2 sizes, one larger for the background color and one smaller for trees
- DecoArt Acrylic Paint Colors in:
- Titaniam White,
- Lemonade
- Sage Green
- Avocado Dip
- Sea Breeze
- Kelly Green
- Slate Gray
- Black
To create the background color we are going to visually divide the canvas into 3 sections horizontally and 2 sections vertically. Each of the 3 horizontal sections (top, middle, bottom) will have one color designation and that color will be more concentrated on one side than the other (either left or right). Be sure you wrap the color for a particular section around the edges of the canvas as well (sides, top, and bottom). You don’t want to have white edges, it will look weird.
The top section of the canvas will be lemonade and will be more concentrated on the right than the left. I began in the upper right hand corner with only the lemonade color (no white) and simply used a back and forth sweeping stroke, left and right and left and right, until the paint has covered the canvas on the portion I am focusing on in the image above. You can consider yourself finished with a step when the canvas isn’t showing through and the texture is that of the paint rather than the canvas. I pulled the color over to the upper left hand corner in this step, but as you can see I allowed the color to concentrate on the right side and mixed the lemonade with white for the left side.
The middle section is going to be sage and once the top section was sufficiently covered with lemonade and white, I begain to add a few drops of sage and white for the section just below it, and concentrated the color more on the right side than the left. When you move to a new section, be sure to bring the color up and into the section above it to blend them so that there aren’t distinct sections here. This should be subtle folks, and not crazy color blocking.
I put the paint directly on the canvas because this is easier for me, and it seems to get the job done well. You can see in the center image that the sage/white section is very light and very well blended (more white than sage for the middle section). In fact it’s so light that I altered the photograph for you (far right) so you can actually see the brush strokes and sectioning here, but know that light with a touch of sage is our goal and that we will want more sage on the right side of the section than the left.
The bottom section is going to be Sea Breeze and this time we will concentrate the color on the left hand side! Continue with the same back and forth horizontal brush strokes and continue until a
For this step I got a little crazy and decided to add Avocado and White to the bottom section on the right hand side and blended it up into the middle right section a tad as well.
Once you are satisfied that your background is well blended and doesn’t look color block-ish, you can move on to the trees! Yahoo.
To begin with the trees you will want to add a couple of drops of Slate Gray to a small dish and then add a few drops of water so that it’s more watery and a bit easier to layer.
Once you have your paint to a moderately watery consistency, paint a few tree trunks and be sure they extend down the bottom edge as well.
Begin adding foliage by using a small circular brush stroke. Add this to the tops of the trunks and then in a few places down toward the bottoms. Add another trunk or so if you need to.
Now we will do the same thing only we will add a drop of black to darken our color slightly and we will only place this darker colored foliage here and there. Think of creating texture and depth here with layers of different colors. Still continue with small circular brush strokes and sweep in a circular pattern to apply and blend.
Add a drop of Kelly Green and again add just a bit with this new color in a few different places.
Now add 2 drops of avocado and again add in a few places (image on the left). Once you have all 4 colors layered you will want to use just a bit of water and maybe just the slightest bit of white to go over the whole tree section and blend and lighten any areas that are much too noticeably dark and should blend a bit better (image on the right).
That’s it folks… you totally did it! Don’t forget, painting is sort of a no brainer because if you mess up you can simply paint over with white and begin again. Don’t be afraid to experiment… It’s so much fun.
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Color Connection: Peachy Keen
01.30.12These peach fuzzy babies make the most fabulous color story… This gray, driftwood and coral color scheme would be amazing for a nursery, craft room, or bedroom and very likely would be loved by girls and boys, both little and big! I don't foresee many issues from the masculine side of our families since these coral hues are more orangish than pink, and are such a fabulous way to compromise on a softer pairing with those neutrals.
For other Color Connection articles, click here.
Color Connection Layout by Pugly Pixel
Image via
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Carolina Chair for Kids
01.30.12Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Under $25
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 2 – 1×4 at 3’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 1 – 1×2 scrap at 1’
- 2 – 1×2 scraps at 13-1/4” each
- 2 – ¾” square dowels at 3’
- Scrap of ¾” plywood at 13” x 13-3/4”
- Scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard for back leg template (4” x 26”)
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1” brads
- Router with flush trim bit
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1×4 at 26” – Back Legs
- 4 – 1×3 at 11-1/2” – Aprons
- 1 – 1×2 at 11-1/2” – Upper Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 13-1/4” – Front Legs
- 5 – ¾” square dowels at 11-1/4” – Spindles
- 1 – 13” x 13-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Seat
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Draw out the back leg on the piece of lauan or hardboard to create a template.
- To make a template:
Draw your piece on a scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard. Cut it out with a jigsaw and smooth any rough edges with a sander. Check the fit of the template against any pieces already built. For example, if it is a back chair leg template, the chair should already be constructed to this point. Any adjustments that need to be made can be made to the template before cutting the actual lumber. Drill a hole in the template for hanging and label it for later use.
- To cut out your piece with a template:
Trace the template onto your piece of lumber and roughly cut out the shape making sure to stay outside of the lines. Attach the template to the piece with strong double-sided tape. Using a router and a flush trim bit, make sure you set the height of the bit so the guide will run along the edge of the template. Cut around the template. Depending on the length of your bit, you may have to make more than one pass around the template. In other words, if the piece you are cutting is 1½” deep and your bit is 1” deep, you will cut the piece around the template. Adjust the depth of the bit, then make another pass with the router. The guide bearing will not follow the template the second time but will follow the piece that has already been cut. Clear as mud? Here is a great demo on how to do this: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-use-router-templates-and-bearing-guides/index.html
Using a template will make your pieces more consistent and uniform, and you’ll have it in case you decide to build more than one!
To remove the adhesive, use a product like Un-du which will not harm the material you are using.
Place the template on the 1x4s for the back legs and cut out.
Cut out the 1×2 for the upper back and the 1×3 for the back apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back pieces. Attach to back legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated. The back side of these pieces should be flush with the back edge of the legs.
Cut out the pieces for the remaining aprons and the front legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown. Don’t forget to check for square!
Cut the pieces for the spindles from the ¾” dowels. Drill one pocket hole in each end of the back edge. Attach to the chair with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated.
Cut the piece for the seat. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches at each end of the back to allow for the back legs. Attach to the seat frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Weekly Wrap Party
01.28.12It’s been a pretty exciting week here at the house of TDC, with lot’s of crafting, building, and streamlining going on. Many of my projects have been ‘behind the scenes’ tasks, but I promise to share them with you in good time!
The most exciting and major project in the works at the moment has been the Master Bedroom Makeover! So much to share, I hope you will join me along the way!
Let’s chat about some of this weeks highlights, shall we?
DESIGN: I shared my Design Plan for the Master Bedroom Makeover and immediately set to work on the 87 projects that will go into the finished room including my most successful purchase of new bedding!
DIY: We made a fabulous wall art display from Paper and Foam, as part of the Master Makeover, and our new Calendar Page for February was published! Be sure to download yours before we move on to March!
CELEBRATE: We had a bit of Holiday Fun with a round up of 16 Handmade Valentine Decor Ideas!
BUILDERS SHOWCASE: We enjoyed a most fabulous tour of Jill’s newly built Cottage Play Kitchen!
PLAN INDEX: And last but not least of course we added 3 new plans to our Plan Index: the Ryland Entryway Storage Unit, the Pocket 2 Drawer Desk/Console, and the Tall Jewelry Armoire!
What a fabulously productive week! Can’t wait to share more from my master makeover and my most recent building projects!
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Builders Showcase: Cottage Kitchen
01.28.12Thank you SO much for making the plans. My girls are 7 and 2 and they haven't stopped playing with it. My husband decided he wanted to do the peak in the roof- I think it's way cute. I used beadboard wall paper, it worked out really well. For the oven door, I sandwiched a peice of glass from a 8×10 pic frame between boards. We made it 4 inches taller and 3 inches wider, and the hutch part is 6 inches taller, I think. I'm glad we did, it is perfect!
The best part- I spent $11 dollars on wood and maybe $30 or 40 on parts and peices. I guess it pays to have
way too many peices of lumber in the garage!