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Plans
This gorgeous piece is one we have already covered plans for, but this is an updated version of those plans using the latest greatest tools and techniques. Hopefully this makes it easier to build, more cost effective and a major enticement to all of you builders out there. I hope one of you tackles this piece quickly… I for one, just can't wait to see it!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Safety Gear
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Table Saw
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
- 9 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3- 1×3 at 8’
- 5 – 2×2 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/2” brad nails
- 9 – sets of 24” drawer slides
- 15 – drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 28 – 1×2 at 25” – Side Frames , Side Supports, Top Supports, and Top Frame Assemblies
- 8 – 1×2 at 23-1/2” – Lower Frame Spacers
- 10 – 1×3 at 22-1/2” – Upper & Center Drawer Boxes
- 2 – 1×3 at 26” – Center Drawer Box
- 8 – 2×2 at 25-1/2” – Legs
- 8 – 2×2 at 3-1/4” – Top Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 25” – Top Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 80” – Top Frame
- 1 – 28” x 80” – ¾” plywood – Divider
- 1 – 25” x 77” – ¾” plywood – Top
- 24 – 6” x 22-1/2” – ¾” plywood – Lower Drawer Boxes
- 2 – 3” x 23-1/4” – ¾” plywood – Upper Drawer Fronts
- 1 – 3” x 26-3/4” – ¾” plywood – Center Upper Drawer Front
- 12 – 3” x 23-1/4” – ¾” plywood – Lower Drawer Fronts
- 6 – ¾” x 23-1/4” – ¾” plywood – Lower Drawer Spacers
- 8 – 22-1/2” x 24” – ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – 24” x 26” – ¼” lauan or hardwood – Center Drawer Bottom
- 4 – 21-3/4” x 25” – ¾” plywood – Lower Sides
- 2 – 3-1/4” x 25” – ¾” plywood – Upper Sides
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the 2×2 legs as indicated. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end of each these pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes at each end in the 1x2s. Construct the side frames as indicated. The pocket holes in the horizontal pieces will face down.
Step 2
Add the support pieces to the inside of the side frames. These pieces will be flush with the inside faces of the 2×2 legs.
Step 3
Cut the 1x2s for the lower frame spacers and drill pocket holes at each end. Once again, the pocket holes will face down. Attach the spacers to the sides as indicated with three in the front and one at the lower back.
Step 4
Cut the 2x2s as indicated for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Assemble with the pocket holes facing to the inside.
Step 5
Cut the 1×2 supports for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the top frame with the spacing as indicated. The bottom of the supports should be flush with the bottom of the frame to allow the top to sit flush.
Cut the 1×2 and 2×2 pieces for the top frame assemblies. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the 1x2s. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in one end of the 2×2 pieces. Assemble as shown in the drawing with the holes in the 2x2s facing down as if you will be drilling into something.
Step 7
Attach the frame assemblies to the bottom of the top frame as indicated. See drawing…
Step 8
Cut the piece for the divider and attach to the top frame as shown using glue and brad nails. Also cut the upper side pieces. Attach with glue and brad nails from the outside of the frame.
Step 9
Flip the top frame over and attach to the lower frames as indicated, lining up the legs with the 2×2 supports.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the lower sides and attach them to the outside and inside of the side frames with glue and brad nails.
Step 11
Cut the piece for the top and attach it to the top frame in the same manner as the sides.
Step 12
Construct the drawer boxes as indicated. There will be two side drawers, one center drawer, and six large drawers. Install the drawer slide hardware. The slides will be located 3/4″ away from the front of the opening to accommodate the drawer front. Do not attach the faces until the drawers have been installed and any adjustments have been made.
Step 13
Construct the lower drawer fronts as shown. Because the center spacer is so narrow, the pocket holes will need to be staggered so the screws don’t hit each other. For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles. I did not include directions for a back panel. For a back panel, cut pieces of ¼” lauan or hardboard and secure to the back with brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
I have been coveting a neon lighting installation ever since I stumbled upon it months ago… but alas the price tag has placed it well out of my reach.
Never fear, I’m a resourceful kinda gal… at times… and this just happens to be one of those times!
This project requires nothing more than a rope light and a few nails, with a total cost of around $15.
I have indicated where your nail placement should go in the image above. Keep in mind this particular lighting installation runs about 4′ in width and is approximately 20″ in height at it’s longest point, which would be for the leg of the ‘p’.
While you may not plan on using the same word I have, this should give you a bit of an idea about how you need to support certain types of letters with your nails and will hopefully give you the insight necessary to hit the ground running and create your own!
Plans
With several options for the top how can you go wrong? Laminate is available in all sorts of colors and patterns, plus it’s a snap to cut and use! Aside from the beauty the bonus here is that there are drawers that open on both sides! Totally convenient… yahoo…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 4×4 at 6’
- 4 – 2×4 at 8’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 3 – 1×6 at 8’
- 4 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1/4 sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 4 sets of 12” drawer slides
- 4 – Locking Casters
- 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
- Contact Cement (if using laminate)
- Laminate Cutter
- Router with flush Trim Bit
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 4×4 at 32” – Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 23” – Side Frames
- 2 – 23” x 28-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Side Panels
- 4 – 2×2 at 34” – X Braces
- 6 – 2×4 at 45” – Lower Stretchers , Middle Aprons & Upper Aprons
- 2 – 2×2 at 17” – Lower Divider Front
- 2 – 17” x 27” of ¾” plywood – Lower Dividers
- 14 – 1×3 at 30” – Slats
- 4 – 1×2 at 28-1/2” – Shelf Supports
- 2 – 21-3/4” x 28-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Shelves
- 4 – 1×2 at 21-3/4” – Shelf Trim
- 2 – 2×2 at 6-1/2” – Drawer Divider
- 1 – 2×2 at 27” – Drawer Divider
- 2 – 1×2 at 53-1/2” – Upper Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 30” – Upper Trim
- 8 – 1×6 at 20-3/4” – Drawer Boxes
- 8 – 1×6 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 12” x 20-3/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – 6-1/4” x 21-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – 31-1/2” x 53-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 2×4 ends. Secure the 2×4 pieces to the legs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the X-braces. An easy way to do this would be to cut the four 2×2 pieces at 34” long. Cut two of the pieces in half and drill pocket holes (for 1-1/2” material) in one end. Secure at the centers of the 34” pieces with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Clamp the pieces in place on the side frames and from the inside, draw lines to make the angled cuts at the corners of the braces. Drill pocket holes at the ends and secure to the side frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Make sure the fronts of the braces are flush with the faces of the side frames.
Cut the plywood pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes on three sides as indicated. Secure to the inside of the frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Make sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the side frames.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the side assemblies with glue and 2-1/2” screws locating them 2” up from the bottom of the legs.
Step 4
Cut the 2×2 pieces for the lower dividers. Drill pocket holes at one end and secure in the center of the lower stretchers with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the plywood pieces for the lower divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 17” ends on one piece only. Secure to the 2×2 divider pieces with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes should face to the inside and the face of the divider is flush with the side of the 2×2 divider.
Secure the second piece of plywood to the first piece, in between the 2x2s with glue and brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the 1×3 pieces for the slats. Secure to the lower stretchers, evenly spaced, with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the shelf supports. Secure to the sides and the divider at the spacing indicated with countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Each support should be located ¾” back from the face of each leg to allow for the shelf trim.
Cut the pieces for the shelves and attach to the supports with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the shelf trim and secure to the shelves with glue and brad nails.
Step 7
Cut the 2×4 pieces for the middle aprons and the upper aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each piece. Attach the middle apron to the sides as indicated in the drawings with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws, and also use a couple of countersunk 2-1/2” screws in the center. Attach the upper apron pieces as indicated in the drawings with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer divider. Drill pocket holes in each end of the three pieces. In the shorter pieces, the top of the pocket holes themselves may overlap each other but it will not affect the screws and they will be completely hidden. Secure as indicated in the drawings with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 9
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the upper trim. Attach the sides first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back pieces.
Step 10
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, apply to the edges and secure to the cabinet with glue and brad nails through the top into the aprons.
If using laminate, use a laminate cutter and cut strips for the edges of the top. The strips can be a little wider than the edges because the excess will be trimmed away with the router. Apply contact cement to the edges following the manufacturer’s instructions and apply the laminate. Use care because once it makes contact, it is stuck forever!! Using a router with a flush trim bit trim away the excess laminate. Secure the top to the cabinet with glue and brad nails through the top into the aprons.
Cut the piece of laminate for the top. Use masking tape on the edges where the strips were applied (to keep the contact cement off and to keep it from chipping when using the router) and adhere the laminate to the top. Use the router again to cut away the excess laminate.
Attach the casters according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 11
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
I decided to replace my cooktop about a month ago. The one I had was twelve years old and was a pain to clean. It had the old coil burners and was starting to give me a few problems. I wanted one of the new, sleek smooth cooktops but I ran into one problem… When I remodeled the kitchen, I based the cutout for the cooktop on the one I already had. In other words, I thought that all cooktops needed basically the same cutout dimensions and therefore, I did not allow for “future expansion”! Most of the smooth cooktops are bigger and require at least a half-inch more in depth. I didn’t have that half-inch to spare. This is where the research came in. Not only did I look at a ton of cooktops, I looked at the installation manuals at the cutout requirements until I found one in my price range that would fit in the opening without too much modification. In fact, I didn’t have to modify the opening at all! I am thrilled with the new cooktop and installation was a snap! It took less than 30 minutes from start to finish!
Replacing a kitchen appliance doesn’t have to be a daunting task. In fact, the installation is the easiest part! There are several pre-installation steps involved that will make the replacement a success.
First, do your research. If you find something you like, take all factors such as cost, the life of the appliance, efficiency, etc. into consideration. Read reviews that others have posted about that particular appliance and let that aid in the decision making process!
Next, as in the case of the cooktop, measure the cutout in the countertop and make sure the new one will fit. Some companies will not accept returns unless there is a manufacturing default in the appliance. Making sure the new one will fit is THE most important step!
Read the installation instructions that came with the cooktop. My dad has a saying, “If all else fails, read the instructions.” This is another very important step and really only takes a few minutes. I like to study my instruction manuals so that I know exactly what I’m getting into before I start a project.
Last, if in doubt about installation, ask for help. Its really not hard but if one is nervous about working with electrical connections, it would be best to consult a professional!
Go to the breaker box and shut off the power to your cooktop or range. It should be on its own breaker and be easy to locate.
Locate the junction box. Remove the cover and disconnect the wiring.
Remove the old cooktop and any brackets that may be installed with it.
Measure the cutout and adjust if necessary. My cooktop came with support brackets to keep the cooktop from moving around in case the opening was a little too big. My opening was not and the cooktop fit in perfectly (whew!!).
Reconnect the wiring. Match the wires color for color (read the manual if you are unsure) and cap them off. Take both black wires for instance (the one from the new cooktop and the one from the existing wiring), insert them into the wire nut and twist the nut until it won’t turn anymore (remember righty-tighty!). Tape the wire nuts to the wiring and make sure none of the wiring is exposed. Do this for each set of wires and make sure it is properly grounded (again, consult the manual). Carefully put the wires back into the junction box and replace the cover.
Turn the breaker back on and test your appliance. That wasn’t so bad, was it?
If in doubt, consult a professional!
Plans
We drafted plans for the full sized version last week, and now in honor of Valentine's Day today, we shall be sharing the Queen size! Of course the Queen will be followed by the King and all will be right in the world with all 3 sizes covered! yahoo…
Stay tuned for a big announcement following this set of plans and regarding this set of plans… I think you will like it! Yes I do…
**This bed is meant for use with both a box spring and mattress. If you plan to use only a mattress, you will need to modify the slats and supports just a tad, so please keep this in mind and be ready to add more slats and a Center Joist to support them if you go this route! Not a big deal, just something to keep in mind!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 8 – 1×3 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×10 at 8’
- 3 – 2×4 at 6’
- 12 – 1×4 at 6’
- 2 – 4×4 posts at 6’
- 8 – 4×4 post finials or furniture feet
Materials
- 1 ½” pocket hole screws
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- 1 ¼” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Bed rail hardware – I recommend Rockler part no. 32077
- 8 post finials or furniture feet to fit on a 4×4 post
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 12 – 1×4 at 56” – Headboard and Footboard Centers
- 1 – 2×10 at 56” – Headboard Top
- 3 – 2×4 at 56” – Headboard and Foot board pieces
- 1 – 1×3 at 56” – Footboard Cap
- 2 – 1×10 at 80” – Side Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 77-1/2” – Slat Supports
- 8 – 1×3 at 60” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the 1×4 pieces for the headboard and footboard centers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the drawings. Eight of these pieces will be for the headboard center and three will be for the footboard center. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Step 2
Cut the curved piece for the headboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Center the straight end on the headboard center and attach to the assembly with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. Cut the 2×4 piece for the bottom, drill pocket holes in each end, and attach in the same manner.
Step 3
Cut the 2×4 pieces for the footboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. Cut the 1×3 piece for the cap. Center the cap over the top of the footboard assembly and fasten in place with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
The length of the headboard and footboard posts will depend on the height of the post finials or feet you choose. Maintain the 52-1/2” height for the headboard and the 32” height for the footboard. Attach the finials to the posts according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Both the headboard and the footboard will be fastened to the posts with glue and 1-1/2” screws, maintaining a 9” distance from the floor to the bottom.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the side rails and the slat supports. Locate the slat support as shown in the drawing. Fasten to the side rails with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s directions maintaining a 54” distance between the side rails.
Cut the pieces for the slats. With the slats evenly spaced, secure to the slat support with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
** Keep in mind, that if you are only going to use a mattress without a box spring, you will need to add a few more slats and a Center Joist underneath them for added support!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Home
Melissa has created some fabulous Valentine's Day printables that you folks are going to L.O.V.E!
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
TDC
It’s been a good week here at the House of TDC and one of diversified content…which I love!
I am so excited to have such a fabulous team around me and I’m so very appreciative of their efforts! Let’s chat about what we accomplished shall we?
DESIGN: We drooled over a gorgeous round up of High Contrast Home Office Spaces.
CELEBRATE: Melissa made us some fabulous Valentines, Free for you to print out and enjoy!
DIY:She also pulled off this incredible Anthro knock off Love Necklace, with so many possible applications for the techniques in this tutorial!
PLAN INDEX: Cher-Ann shared with us the most fabulous and very convenient laptop table, the stunning mod styled Oak Park Elementary Bed, and the gorgeous Cortona Bed!
See what I mean? fabulous right? I will finally have some Master Bedroom updates for you this week as well. I know all has been quite on that front, but trust me a lot has gone on behind the scenes… stay tune for that!
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
TDC
Once a month our Weekly Wrap Party will include a Monthly Report. This report will include a round up of sponsors and giveaway sponsors and will give me a chance to say thank you to those folks who allow TDC to publish the 45-60 articles that go out in a given month, and that frankly make my world go round.
Our sponsors:
Simple Fit – the most fabulous and easy to install solution for your naked windows!
Sawgrass Mills Rugs – the most luxurious outdoor rugs ever!
Hatteras Hammocks – a ‘take your breath away’ experience!
If you would like to sponsor TDC, contact me for details and info!
If you would like to have me host a giveaway, contact me for details!
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I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Plans
I am constantly on my laptop – for work purposes, of course!! My most favorite place to work with it is by the fireplace. A table like this makes work so much easier, plus I could use it while lying on the couch under a cozy blanket!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Square
- Sander
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 1 –piece of ¾” plywood 12-1/2” x 23-1/2”
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 4 – Hinges
- USB hub, if desired
- 3M Command Strips to attach USB hub
- Mouse Pad
- Carpet Tape to attach mouse pad
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 25”– Frame Front & Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 12-1/2” – Frame Sides
- 1 – 12-1/2” x 23-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Back
- 4 – 1×2 at 8” – Legs
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the frame sides, front & back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the sides. Assemble the frame as shown with 1-1/4” pocket screws and glue. Check for square.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the top and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the top flush with the frame edge using 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach the a hinge to one end of each leg. Lay a leg at each corner with the wider face facing to the outside. Attach the hinge to the table top so that when the leg folds up, the hinge is sandwiched between the leg and the top, and the leg is flush with the side.
Step 4
Use carpet tape and adhere the mouse pad in the position desired. Use the Command strips to attach the USB hub in a position that works best for your laptop. If desired, use a hole saw to cut a hole to insert a car cup holder (with the hook removed) and secure the cup holder with silicone
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / DIY / Home
I'm in love with everything I see at Anthropologie, every single time I set foot in there! Everything, that is, except the prices. This little festive V-Day beauty is perfect for Valentine's Day or ANY day! I am by no means a jewelry-maker. This tutorial is for anyone, I promise. It's just a matter of having some appropriate tools. So here goes…
Luckily, I have a stash of random jewelry findings from various attempts at making things. All of this stuff came from a big-box store, and was inexpensive.
Anthro necklace: $48
My necklace: Under $5 + labor (an hour)
Materials:
- wire (I think this is 18 gauge, about 12″)
- chain (about 14″)
- 3 jump rings
- embroidery thread (about 24″, separated),
- wire cutters/pliers
- ruler
- sewing needle
- glue
- scissors
- pencil
- paper
My suggestion is to take a peek at the whole tutorial (including tips for my next time) before you begin!
Step 1: make a template for your word. Mine is about 1.5″ long.
Step 2: carefully “trace” the template with the wire.
Step 3: Separate your thread (18-24″). It should be about 6 strands thick. I split it in half.
Step 4: Begin wrapping. (note: this was the hardest part. I put a little glue on the end, which didn't help much. So I just tried to wrap the loose end under the wrapping, so it'd stay put)
Secure the end with a little more glue. Trim loose ends.
Step 5: the tassel. I had no idea how to go about this so I googled it. It's easy. Here's the site I used.
My tassel has a cowlick. Maybe I could use my hair straightener on it?
Step 6: Attach the tassel inside the loop of the “e”. Put another jump ring in there, then close that loop up nice and tight.
Step 7: Put a jump ring in the “L” loop and close that bad boy up too.
Step 8: Attach your chain to the jump ring by opening the last link on both sides and inserting the rings. Then close them up nice and tight.
Et Voila! You have your Thread-Wrapped Sentiment Necklace!
Unlike some of my other jewelry experiments, I will wear this one out in public!
If I were to do it again:
1. Be sure to wrap the thread tighter. See the gaps? They're not that noticable in real life.
2. Cowlick-free tassel.
3. Attach the jump rings to the chain first, then close it up in the wire loops? Maybe that would be easier? Or else I'm just uncoordinated.
4. Figure out a better way to secure the thread at the beginning and ending. Or be more patient and let the glue work.
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
DIY / Entertaining
For the little (or big) monsters in your life… these fabulous hand drawn printables are just the thing!
DOWNLOAD HERE
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Plans
This bed is an absolute stunner! Just gorgeous… a little bit feminine and bit masculine, with good strong bones and a very expensive demeanor! I can't wait to see a showcase for this fine specimen!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 8 – 1×3 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×10 at 8’
- 3 – 2×4 at 6’
- 12 – 1×4 at 6’
- 2 – 4×4 posts at 6’
- 8 – 4×4 post finials or furniture feet
Materials
- 1½” pocket hole screws
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- 1 ¼” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Bed rail hardware – I recommend Rockler part no. 32077
- 8 post finials or furniture feet to fit on a 4×4 post
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 12 – 1×4 at 50” – Headboard and Footboard Centers
- 1 – 2×10 at 50” – Headboard Top
- 3 – 2×4 at 50” – Headboard and Foot board pieces
- 1 – 1×3 at 50” – Footboard Cap
- 2 – 1×10 at 75” – Side Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 71-1/2” – Slat Supports
- 8 – 1×3 at 54” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the 1×4 pieces for the headboard and footboard centers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the drawings. Eight of these pieces will be for the headboard center and three will be for the footboard center. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Step 2
Cut the curved piece for the headboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Center the straight end on the headboard center and attach to the assembly with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. Cut the 2×4 piece for the bottom, drill pocket holes in each end, and attach in the same manner.
Step 3
Cut the 2×4 pieces for the footboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. Cut the 1×3 piece for the cap. Center the cap over the top of the footboard assembly and fasten in place with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
The length of the headboard and footboard posts will depend on the height of the post finials or feet you choose. Maintain the 52-1/2” height for the headboard and the 32” height for the footboard. Attach the finials to the posts according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Both the headboard and the footboard will be fastened to the posts with glue and 1-1/2” screws, maintaining a 9” distance from the floor to the bottom.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the side rails and the slat supports. Locate the slat support as shown in the drawing. Fasten to the side rails with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s directions maintaining a 54” distance between the side rails.
Cut the pieces for the slats. With the slats evenly spaced, secure to the slat support with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
