[carousel-horizontal-posts-content-slider]
Design / DIY / Home
Our backyard is about the size of a dollar bill… but somehow that doesn’t make it exempt from a winter thrashing. It doesn’t snow here, but the trees… those trees… they lose a lot of leaves.
I’m all about a fabulous garden bed, but I never seem to have the extra funds to purchase the ingredients necessary to make it fabulous in the way my mind imagines. I see organic top soil, raised perimeters, automatic drip lines to every single plant, mulch, mulch, and more mulch dancing in my head.
But nope, around these parts we are lucky to get a soaker hose that is long enough to do half the yard at a time and the smallest amount of composted soil you can imagine.
This year our uber tiny ‘composting pot’ has finally begun to pay off (a little bit). Of course that is probably because it was ever only an accidental compost pot and really only came into being because the plant I had in there croaked (what’s new).
When your backyard can hardly hold any plants, much less a large compost bin or compost area, you need to get creative and that is precisely what this pot represents. My extreme creativity (kidding…kind of)! I drilled some holes in the sides to allow for airflow and I add soil or manure in a thin layer on top every so often. It’s worked beautifully except, for the fact that I can’t seem to convince Mr. TDC that you can’t just throw in an entire head of cabbage and have it work quickly. Ugh. I also can’t seem to convince the dogs not to climb in (and get stuck, which is pretty funny sometimes) and strew egg shells around. But whatyagonnado but make do?
The first task in this winter dig out was to spread the leaves around evenly. Weird you might think? Well perhaps but when you can’t purchase a few yards of mulch and you don’t have a traditional composting site, composting in place and ammending your soil in a non traditional manner become your only hope!
While I was busy spreading the wealth on the opposite side of the yard, the Mr. and the Boy got to work clearing our ‘not so successful’ food growing planter. Some of you might remember the year I planted millions of seeds (ok slight exaggeration) and only 2 things grew which I couldn’t even identify…. *sigh* so goes the life of a brown thumbed gardener! Then there was the ginormous tomato plant that grew last year that I actually never planted. So this year required some clearing of rocks and, run away tomatoes that managed to get away from us once the cold set in (for a day).
**I would just like to note that it’s a rare day when the Mr actually joins in with the DIY movement I have single handedly decided we were joining and promoting in this household. He is not the DIY type (just not his thing) and so this was a very special treat… that probably won’t have a repeat affair.
Once the rocks were out and the tomatoes picked over, we actually set our makeshift perimeter into place a bit better. We just used untreated 2×4 scraps I had in my ‘lumber yard’ and didn’t even bother to connect or attach them to each other. We are renters in this house, so anything we do must be of the non permanent type. Since the perimeter is really only to raise the bed a tad and keep toddler toes from trampling, this works fabulously.
To continue along that path of non permanent changes, we switched out the head on the single drip line for this section, to a sprinkling variety. This is not the best solution for watering but is the only solution when you need to water a larger area than a single plant and you aren’t able to do actual ‘yard construction’. To change out the head you simply remove and replace, it’s so simple. Once the watering was set we added a left over bag of seeding soil (typically meant for grass starter, but it’s what we had on hand) to the mix and a partial bag of manure (super nutritious and definitely cheap!) and we were ready to roll for planting any seeds or vegetables (which probably won’t grow anyhow) and in the meantime the bed looks clean and neat!
Meanwhile on the other side of the yard (all 30 feet away), I brought out my scrap paper from a project I worked on earlier in the week and put it to good use laying it over the top of the leaves. This will degrade in a couple of weeks and add some much needed organic matter to my very clay filled soil, and in the meantime it will provide a bit of weed prevention! Win win… You can also use newspaper or cardboard for this purpose and it’s a fabulous way to prep your beds for future function. Mine has killed 8 plants in the period of a year due to complete and utter suffocation so amending this clay is an absolute must! Not to mention it’s the pits trying to weed dry clay hard soil. It would be easier bulldoze the whole area and begin again. Of course that isn’t an option so paper layering it shall have to be!
Once the paper was generally spread and moderately even throughout, I covered it with a layer of manure and a bit of top soil. This top layer will help hold the paper in place and also act to help it compost well by breaking it down more quickly.
While we were testing the drip line to be sure the spray was set properly in the vegetable bed, we noticed a bit of a leak in another bed. Eek!
The Mr had the genius idea of digging it out and inserting a drip line into the leaking section of the main line (so smart…) and of course switching the head to…. wait for it…. a sprinkling head so I don’t have to water by hand! Yahoo… and while he was at it, he swapped out the adjacent head as well so now the entire bed is well covered and automatic! I couldn’t tell you how happy I am to have a self watering section of the yard that is in full crazy hot sun. I kill plants on a regular basis here because I forget to water them… oops! I’m a terrible plant mom.
Now I just need to amend the soil in this bed and the perimeter beds and tidy them up a bit (aka replace the stuff I’ve killed) and we are in pretty good shape for a few months (I hope).
Showcase
I wanted this activity table to double as a coffee table, so I added 3″ to all the vertical pieces. With being a husband, a father of 2 little ones, and a full time service tech in the HVAC industry, this project wore me out. I have to say it was all worth it, the kids love it and we have a piece of furniture that will stay in the family for a long time.
-Jerry these mods are amazing and I think this is the absolute perfect coffee table, especially since they all double as a play table when there are kiddos around anyhow! genius! ~ Rayan
Estimated Cost
As far as cost goes, with lumber, and all other materials, including finishing, I'd say around $150. I would chalk some of the cost up to this being my first project.
Length of Time
With that said, it probably took me longer than it should've.
Finishing Technique
I did not use any wood glue, it was all pocket hole screws. I tried to match the stain that is on the entertainment center in the background. Unfortunately I found it by using one stain on top of another (Colonial Maple on top of Early American). Inexperience, twice the staining, and staining everything prior to construction, all helped prolong the effort. I topped it off with 2 coats of a clear satin poly, just on the top.
Plans
This piece has fabulous style with it’s easy to build demeanor, using dimensional lumber, sheet goods, and a bit of trim!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 5 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- One sheet of ¼” plywood
- One sheet of ½” plywood
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
- One half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – ½” x 2 craft boards at 3’
- 3 – ½” x 2 craft boards at 4’
- 3 – ½” x 5 craft boards at 3’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1” brad nails
- 6 – Knobs or handles
- 3 – Sets of 18” Drawer Slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 35-1/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 16-1/4” x 31-1/4” – Side panels
- 6 – 1×2 at 18-1/4” – Shelf Supports
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 39-3/4” – Shelves
- 3 – 1×2 at 39-3/4” – Upper Supports & Lower Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 17-3/4” – Upper Support
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 41-1/4” x 35-1/4” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 42-1/4” – Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2” – Lower Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 42-3/4” – Lower Trim
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 16-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 38-3/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 3 – ¼” plywood at 18”x 38-3/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 3 – ½” plywood at 9-3/4” x 39-1/2” – Drawer Faces
- 6 – ½” x 2 at 9-3/4” – Drawer Face Trim (craft boards or plywood)
- 6 – ½” x 2 at 36-1/2” – Drawer Face Trim (craft boards or plywood)
- 3 – ½ plywood at 4-3/4” x 34-1/2” – Center Drawer Face (craft boards or plywood)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side frames and panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter boards. The 1×3 pieces will be at the bottom of the frame. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the panels. Attach to the frames with glue and 1” pocket hole screws, making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back face of the frame.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Attach them to the sides at the spacing indicated in the drawing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or counter sunk 1-1/4” screws. Be careful not to allow the brads or screws go all the way through the panel!
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Attach to the supports with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the upper supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each board. Attach to the cabinet as shown in the drawing with the short piece located in the center using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the back and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top. It will overlap at the front and sides by ½”. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the upper supports, center support, and sides.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the lower trim support. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the shelf above it, as well as through the sides, into the support piece.
Next, cut the pieces for the lower trim. Attach the side trim first, with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Then attach the front trim piece in the same manner.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and assemble as shown in the drawing. Cut and attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s directions setting them 1” back from the face of the cabinet. Install the drawer boxes and make any necessary adjustments.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach the narrower strips to the faces with glue and 1” brad nails. The center piece will have a 1” gap between it and the narrower pieces. Attach in the same manner as the narrow pieces and drill the holes for the knobs or handles. Do not attach to the drawer boxes yet!
There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles or knobs and install them.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
When I saw the plans for the Vintage Crates posted, I wanted to make them and I had an awesome idea… I could use my plywood scraps left over from my kitchen remodel! I got to work the next day ripping and sanding all of my pieces.
Estimated Cost
I already had the supplies… I just bought the stain!
Lumber Used
I cut two crates out of oak, and two out of birch. All of the material was 3/4″, and I assembled them with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. I was too lazy to cut the handholds so I purchased inexpensive handles to attach to the sides.
Finishing Technique
Projects like this also allow me to use finishes I wouldn't normally use. On the top crate in the picture (made out of Birch), I used Minwax Water-Based Stain in Blue Hawaii with Minwax Water-Based Wipe-On Poly. The stain is great but you have to work fast! It is better suited for small projects because it dries quickly. The Water-Based Wipe-On Poly dries way too fast. it is also great for small projects and I definitely would not use it on a large one. The lower crate (made out of Oak) in the picture was stained with one of my new favorites – Rustoleum Ultimate Wood Stain in Sunbleached and sealed with Minwax Polyurethane spray in Clear Satin. This stain is much easier to use (probably because of the oil base) and I think it looks fantastic! The sealer is definitely one of my favorites although I prefer this in the wipe-on version.
Thank you, Robohead, for a great plan! I was able to reduce my scrap pile!
DIY / Home
I’m excited to share this gorgeous illustrated children’s print with you today! Perfect for a nursery or kiddo room and of course complete with a fabulous message too. I adore this handcrafted work from our girl Melissa! such talent!
DOWNLOAD HERE
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Plans
I loved this bed in every other size and now I love it in the King Size…. I hope you like it too!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 8 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×10 at 8’
- 3 – 2×4 at 8’
- 12 – 1×4 at 8’
- 2 – 4×4 posts at 6’
- 8 – 4×4 post finials or furniture feet
Materials
- 1 ½” pocket hole screws
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- 1 ¼” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Bed rail hardware – I recommend Rockler part no. 32077
- 8 post finials or furniture feet to fit on a 4×4 post
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 12 – 1×4 at 72” – Headboard and Footboard Centers
- 1 – 2×10 at 72” – Headboard Top
- 3 – 2×4 at 72” – Headboard and Foot board pieces
- 1 – 1×3 at 72” – Footboard Cap
- 2 – 1×10 at 80” – Side Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 77-1/2” – Slat Supports
- 8 – 1×3 at 76” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the 1×4 pieces for the headboard and footboard centers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the drawings. Eight of these pieces will be for the headboard center and three will be for the footboard center. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Step 2
Cut the curved piece for the headboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Center the straight end on the headboard center and attach to the assembly with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. Cut the 2×4 piece for the bottom, drill pocket holes in each end, and attach in the same manner.
Step 3
Cut the 2×4 pieces for the footboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. Cut the 1×3 piece for the cap. Center the cap over the top of the footboard assembly and fasten in place with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
The length of the headboard and footboard posts will depend on the height of the post finials or feet you choose. Maintain the 52-1/2” height for the headboard and the 32” height for the footboard. Attach the finials to the posts according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Both the headboard and the footboard will be fastened to the posts with glue and 1-1/2” screws, maintaining a 9” distance from the floor to the bottom.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the side rails and the slat supports. Locate the slat support as shown in the drawing. Fasten to the side rails with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s directions maintaining a 54” distance between the side rails.
Cut the pieces for the slats. With the slats evenly spaced, secure to the slat support with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
Now this has been a serious week of building and projects! A HUGE yahoo to all of you productive folks… and big hugs from all of us here at TDC. We are so proud of your amazing talents and honored to know you and spend time with you in this small corner of the interwebs!
Let’s chat about all our great accomplishments, shall we?
CELEBRATE: We shared a fabulous array of Incredible Edible Treats for St. Patrick’s Day and a beautiful FREE Printable for the occasion as well!
DESIGN: We enjoyed a Peach Keen Nursery Design and we shall have a more boyish version shortly!
DIY: I made a simple paper craft and shared a bit of a sneak peak of my Master Bedroom Makeover (you can see some details that haven’t been shared yet!).
BUILDERS SHOWCASE: We had 2 amazing showcase posts this week: A Mason Activity Table and a Hudson Wide Bedside Table! Absolutely gorgeous they are!
PLAN INDEX: We added 2 new plans to the Plan Index this week also! We covered the Paulette Server and a 3 Drawer Apothecary Medicine Cabinet!
Now you see what I mean… a truly fabulous and productive week! Yahoo all around.
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Showcase
This was my first project and I really want to thank you for making it possible. This opened an entire new world to me and I look forward to many more projects to come in the near future.
-Jimmy I couldn't be more proud of your hard work and this beautiful specimen you have built! I look forward to seeing your projects in the future and thank you for taking the time to build from my plans, it's such an honor! ~ Rayan
Length of Time
This project took about a week to finish.
Lumber Used
I used an assortment of what was available at the local large box store since I knew it would be painted. The legs are oak, top and shelf are birch plywood, body is pine, and the decorative moldings are poplar.
Finishing Technique
The table edges were routed with a roman ogee bit and the moldings on the sides, back, and drawer front were routed with a quarter round over bit. Finish is Valspar paint in Churchill Hotel Vanilla and antiquing glaze, followed by a Wipe-on poly.
Plans
Build a simple, yet stylish, medicine cabinet to add more storage to your bathroom! This medicine cabinet has 3 apothecary-styled drawers to help contain anything from q-tips to combs!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 – 1 x 6 x 8′
- 1 – 1 x 6 x 4′
- 1 – 1 x 4 x 2′ (you only need 16 1/2″)
- 1 – 1 x 3 x 4 (or furring strip, if cheaper)
- 1 – 2 x 4 sheet of 1/4″ ply
- 1 – 2 x 4 sheet of 1/2″ ply (or scraps! Use scraps for this, if you have any!)
- 2 – 1 x 6 @ 24″ (sides)
- 3 – 1 x 6 @ 16 1/2″ (top, bottom & shelf)
- 2 – 1 x 6 @ 5″ (dividers)
- 1 – 1 x 4 @ 16 1/2″ (inside shelf)
- 6 – 1/2″ ply @ 4 3/4″ x 4 1/2″ (drawer fronts and backs)
- 6 – 1/2″ ply @ 4 1/2 x 4 1/2″ (drawer sides)
- 3 – 1/4″ ply @ 5 1/2″ x 4 3/4″ (drawer bottoms)
- 1 – 1/4″ ply @ 18″ x 24″ (back)
- 2 – 1 x 3 @ 11 1/4″ (door rail)
- 2 – 1 x 3 @ 16 1/2″ (door stiles)
- 1 – 1 x 3 @ 16 1/2 (support cleat)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build a box using your side pieces and your top and bottom pieces. Make sure that the top and bottom boards are on the inside of the side boards.
Measure 5″ from the bottom inside of the box, and screw your shelf in with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Attach your support cleat to the back using 1 1/4″ pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock. It’s best to put your pocket holes at the back of the piece.
Add your drawer dividers. I found it easiest to just use glue and 1 1/4″ finish nails. Otherwise, predrill through the middle shelf and bottom of the cabinet, and use 1 1/4″ screws and glue. You cannot use pocket holes for these.
Figure out where you want your inside shelf. I preferred to have mine 5 1/2″ down so that I had an area for my smaller items, and one for my taller items. But this is entirely up to you, and what you plan to store! Attach shelf to the cabinet using 1 1/4″ pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock.
Build your drawers, make sure your 4 1/2″ boards are sandwiched between the 4 3/4″ boards. Use glue and 1 1/4″ finishing nails.
Attach your drawer bottoms using glue and 1 1/4″ finish nails
Build your door as shown. Use 1 1/4″ pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock.
Attach the back, using glue and 1 1/4″ finish nails.
Insert your mirror or glass into the door using mirror clips. If you plan on using wood, attach with only glue, and let dry.
Attach the door with the hinges, add some hardware, and put your drawers in place.
To hang, locate studs and screw through the support cleat into the studs using 2 – 3″ screws. If no studs are available, use the appropriate wall anchors.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Design / DIY
Who needs luck when you've got love? Download this fabulous free printable and turn the tide for this most luck filled holiday!
DOWNLOAD HERE
All you need is a valid email address to sign up and vote, it's seriously easy! Click here to sign up and here for the voting categories… thank you xx, rayan
Showcase
We are still beginners with building so this was a little tough. Next time I will stain the boards before I put them together, at least for something like the top. We had to sand the drawers really well to make sure they really slided easily. I wanted my 3 year old to have no problems getting into it. The stain matched my son's furniture, so I was really pleased with the finish. It's also a very heavy piece of furniture, which is great because my son used his old flimsy table to climb on top of things. This one is not budging!
Design
We covered a fabulous color connection a while back that had some peachy tones that really resonated with me for a little girls nursery. It’s fabulous to use the ever standard pinks and purples, but why not mix things up by making peach the mainstay of the room!
I have included the links to all of the image sources I used in this mood board. Keep in mind that many of which are not for actual products but for inspiration or for products I may have ‘altered’ to resemble a DIY project that might be done! Consider it a little artistic license if you will.
All you need is a valid email address to sign up and vote, it’s seriously easy! Click here to sign up and here for the voting categories… thank you xx, rayan
