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Plans
The most fabulous storage piece and a special request submitted to the Project Request page!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 – sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 4 – 2×2 at 6’
- 8 – 1×2 at 8’
- 7 – 1×6 at 8’
- 4 – 2×2 at 54-1/2” – Side Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 18-1/2” – Side Frames
- 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2” – Side Stretcher
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 48-3/4” – Side Panels
- 14 – 1×2 at 34” – Support Frames
- 8 – 1×2 at 18-1/2” – Support Frames
- 2 – 1×2 at 7” – Vertical Supports
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 37” x 50-1/4” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18x 33-3/4” – Shelf
- 8 – 1×6 at 15-5/8” – Upper Drawer Boxes
- 6 – 1×6 at 33” – Lower Drawer Boxes
- 14 – 1×6 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 38-1/2” – Top
- 4 – ¼” plywood at 15-5/8” x 20” – Upper Drawer Bottoms
- 3 – ¼” plywood at 20” x 33” – Lower Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 16-3/8” – Upper Drawer Fronts
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 33-3/4” – Lower Drawer Fronts
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side frames, panels, and stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 frame pieces as well as the side panels. The 1×2 pieces will be located so that the 1-1/2” face is on the top/bottom. Assemble the frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach the panels in the same manner. The back of the panel should be flush with the back of the frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Attach to sides at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/2” screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” screws. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated in the drawings. It may be easier to start at the bottom and work your way up.
Cut the pieces for the vertical supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the center of the upper drawer compartments at the spacing indicated.
Cut the piece for the back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top and secure to the supports and side frames with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. The front and sides of the top will hang over by ¾”.
Cut the piece for the shelf. To make it slide easier, draw a pencil mark on the underside of the shelf where the supports are located. Push thumbtacks (the brass tacks work best) into the underside of the shelf along the pencil marks so that the tacks will slide along the supports when the shelf is pulled out.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles and attach the hardware.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
A very simple, yet big impact type of project from our project request page… Yahoo right?
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 1 – 1×6 at 6’
- 2 – 1/4 x 2 craft boards at 3’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×6 at 16” – Sides
- 1 – 1×6 at 25” – Shelf
- 2 – 1×3 at 23-1/2” – Back pieces
- 2 – 1/4 x 2 at 25” – Front slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides. Draw a fancy curve and cut it out with a jigsaw leaving at least 8” in the center free.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the shelf. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shelf board. Attach to the sides at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the back and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the back at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the front slats. Attach to the front at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach to the wall with countersunk screws drilled directly through the back pieces into a wall stud for stability.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I promised myself I would build this lounger for my 52nd birthday and on March 11th (my birthday) I completed it. So you can see, this project has meant more to me than I can ever express.
I want to say that I never buit anything in my life that did not come with Ikea-like instructions. This was a labor of love and very satisfying. I want to thank you so much for these amazing plans. This lounger is going to provide many relaxing moments in the sun reading and relaxing. BTW, its much bigger than I thought. I look forward to start building the double lounger next weekend. I'm sure I'll be able to cut down my build time in half. Thank you for an amazing experience! I found my new hobby!
Estimated Cost
Overall these plans are very easy to understand and very thorough. The cost was accurate almost to the dollar. Word of warning though, double check the cuts. I had my lumber cuts done at Homedepot and they screwed up the 30 slats and use two-inch hinges for best fit. I recommend that you buy: 1-Kreg right angle clamp and 2- kreg small clamps,and two boxes of 100 each 1.25 inch pocket hole screws to make your life easy and get a great fit in your build.
Length of Time
Altogether it took me 22 hours over 4 days at an easy pace.
Lumber Used
I would like to make a couple of comments on the plans and maybe a tip or two for anyone considering this project. First, I noticed the plan did not include a rear interior frame so I added one to add extra rigidity. Also, the added rear interior frame allows the back rest stand to slide under the back rest without touching the ground.
I tried to show as many angles on the rear interior frame so you can see the placement. Basically, it sits just under where the back part of the original interior frame is placed. The dimensions are 26” wide and 21.75” long (or built so it fits flush with the bottom end of the front interior frame and the bottom of the last adjustment block support.
Secondly, the instructions and drawings on adding the legs did not make any mention of how the legs will be attached to the frame until Step 8. The picture in Step 8 has vertical pocket holes showing on the length part of the exterior frame (you need these to attach the legs), but when building the exterior frame in Step 1 there is no mention of adding those vertical pocket holes. This becomes a serious problem when you get to step 8 and there is no way to attach the legs to the frame using the Kreg jig. My fix to this was to attach 4 custom cut small blocks of wood with Kreg pocket holes (attached to the frame with 2 wood screws for each block) to the end areas of the inside of the external frame.
Plans
We covered plans for the buffet here, and now the hutch! Isn’t it fabulous? Just think of all that amazing wine storage!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ½” plywood
- Half sheet of ¼” plywood
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 24 – ¾” dowels at 3’
- 1 – Trim or Casing at 4’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 2” screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 2 pieces of glass or acrylic
- 2 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Router with rabbeting bit
- Silicone to adhere glass/acrylic to door frame
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 6 – 1×3 at 6” – Side & Divider Frames
- 6 – 1×3 at 43-1/4” – Side & Divider Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 6” x 38-1/4” – Side Panels
- 28 – 1×2 at 10-1/4” – Shelf Supports
- 2 – 1×4 at 21-7/8” – Lower Aprons
- 2 – 1×6 at 21-7/8” (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) – Upper Aprons
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 43-1/4” x 46” – Back
- 14 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 21-7/8” – Shelves
- 70 – ¾” dowels at 11” – Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 47” – Top
- 1 – Trim or Casing at 46” – Top Trim
- 4 – 1×3 at 17-1/2” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 38-1/2” – Door Frames
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side frames and divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.
Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the supports. Attach with the spacing indicated in the drawing using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower aprons. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the shelves and dividers. Attach each dowel piece to the shelves with the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The ends of the dividers can be rounded off by thoroughly sanding them.
Secure the shelves to the supports using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. It would be easier to start with the bottom shelf first, then work your way up.
Cut the piece for the top and secure to the sides and aprons with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. The top will overlap by ½” on the sides and front.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the trim. Attach to the front just under the top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the door frames and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using a router and a rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet approximately ¼” deep to hold the glass or acrylic. Run a bead of silicone in the rabbet to secure the glass or acrylic to the frame.
Wait to purchase the glass or acrylic until after the doors are completed. This way you can get an accurate measurement of the area because the rabbet width will depend on the router bit used.
Attach the hinges to the doors, then attach them to the cabinet.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Home
Big News Friends… We are expecting Baby #2 here at the House of TDC! We couldn’t be more excited…. and sick (literally). So while I wish I was presenting this news with my own fabulous photo montage or clever visual announcement, I fear you will have to make due with some amazing ideas from around the web from other folks! But seriously these are some amazing ideas and I hope to feel well enough soon to attempt a couple of them before it’s too late! If you have been wondering why I have been posting intermittently or issuing a bit of radio silence, well the cat is out of the bag! Yahoo…
Plans
A custom build designed by Matt himself! This cabinet is totally customizable – Matt used the actual measurements of his media components to determine the size of his cabinet.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- Edge banding for the plywood edges
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 1 – 18” x 93-1/2” – Top
- 1 – 18” x 91-1/2” – Bottom
- 6 – 18” x 22-3/4” – Dividers
- 4 – 17” x 18” – Shelves
- 2 – 18” x 18” – Shelves
- 4 – 10” x 37-1/4” – Hutch Sides
- 8 – 9” x 10” – Hutch Shelves
- 1 – 10” x 80” – Hutch Top
- 1 – 24-1/4” x 91-1/2” (1/4” plywood) – Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Apply edge banding, if desired, after each piece has been cut.
Cut the pieces for the top, bottom, and dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the 18” ends of the dividers. Attach one divider to each side of the bottom with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach top in the same manner keeping in mind that each end of the top will overlap the sides by 1”. Check for square, then insert the remaining dividers at the spacing indicated in the drawing
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the shelves and attach to the dividers with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the hutches. Attach the shelves to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Set the hutch assemblies on the top spaced 59” apart. Attach the hutch top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then secure the hutch assemblies to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
By special reader request, easy plans to build an A-Frame for swings or a bench. This would do well to be secured in some way.
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 5 – 4×4 posts at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2×6 at 4’
- 4 – 4×4 posts at 95-5/8”
- 2 – 2×4 at 40-1/8” – Lower Bracing
- 2 – 2×6 at 14-7/16” – Upper Bracing
- 1 – 4×4 at 82” – Stretcher
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles as shown – all angles are 18 degrees.
Cut the pieces for the bracing. The angles in the sides of each piece are 18 degrees. Pre-drill the holes in the ends of each piece before positioning on the legs. Use one carriage bolt for each end of the 2×4 pieces and two carriage bolts for each end of the 2×6 pieces. Once the holes in the bracing have been drilled, lay the bracing in position on the legs and drill the holes in the legs. Insert the carriage bolts through the holes in the legs, then through the bracing with a washer at the end and tighten the nut. (The nut on each bolt will face out)
Also, pre-drill the holes through the sides of the legs to secure the stretcher.
Cut the piece for the stretcher. Mark the position for the hanging loops or other hardware and pre-drill the holes. Mark the position of the holes for the legs and pre-drill the holes. It will be easier to lay the legs on one side, position the stretcher (1-1/2” will overlap each edge and rest on the upper bracing) then insert the carriage bolts, washer and nut. Use a hammer to flatten the end of each bolt so that the nut won’t fall off if it comes loose. Use a helper to move the stand upright.
If desired, drill holes at an angle in the bottom of each leg and hammer a piece of rebar through the holes into the ground for added security.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Plans
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 1 – 1×10 at 4’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×10 (ripped to 8” wide) at 11-1/4” – Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 16-1/2” – Stretchers
- 1 – 1×10 (ripped to 8” wide) at 8” x 18” – Seat
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the arc in the bottom with a jigsaw.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretchers will be flush with the outside edge of the sides.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the seat. Attach to the bench frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Edge Banding for plywood
- 4 – 2” casters
- 3 sets of 14” drawer slides
- 3 cabinet pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 24-1/2” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 17” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Back
- 3 – 1×2 at 15-1/2” – Front Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 17” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 13-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 13-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Backs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 15-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 13-1/4” – Larger Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Larger Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾”plywood at 6-3/4” x 15-1/4” – Larger Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If edge banding is being used, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach to the sides and the bottom of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back into the underside of the top.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the smaller drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8″ on each side. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the larger drawers and assemble in the same manner as the smaller drawers.
Attach the casters according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
A fabulous Buffet with clean lines and simple styling, this piece is sure to fit with most decor!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 5 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 3’
- Half sheet of ½” plywood
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Half sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 4×4 at 3’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 2” screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 2 sets of 18” drawer slides
- 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×3 at 15” – Side Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 29-1/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 15” x 24-1/4” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 44-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 28-1/2” – Divider
- 4 – 1×2 at 21-7/8” – Top Supports
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-7/8” – Shelves
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 29-1/4” x 46” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 47” – Top
- 2 – 1×3 at 46” – Base Frame
- 3 – 1×3 at 17” – Base Frame
- 4 – 4×4 at 3-1/4” – Feet
- 4 – 1×4 at 20-7/8” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 1×4 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 20-7/8” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 21-5/8” – Drawer Fronts
- 4 – 1×3 at 16-5/8” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 21-3/4” – Door Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 16-5/8” x 16-3/4” – Door Panels
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.
Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the two shorter ends. Attach the sides with the bottom of the frames flush with the bottom face using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in one short end only and secure in the center of the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the top support. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Secure to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of each shelf and secure with the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the side frames, shelves, bottom, and top supports.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with ½” overlap at the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports, divider, and side panels.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the three shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Attach the feet to the frame with countersunk 2” screws through the base frame into the feet.
Attach the base to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the frame into the bottom.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob.
Cut the pieces for the doors and assemble as shown, in the same manner as the sides. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then shim in place and attach the hinges to the cabinet.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / DIY
There is something I adore about a child's space. I think all design rules and regulations are thrown upside down in favor of whimsical, statment making decor. A well designed kiddo room celebrates everything amazing about being young. This is a round up of a few of my recent faves…
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Plans
These are a beautiful way to store your recycling until recycle day! They can also be used to store craft papers, toys and fabrics! Think of your own clever use!
You can get two bins out of a full sheet of ply.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Circular saw or Table saw
- Jig Saw
- Nail gun
Lumber
- Half of a 4×8 sheet of 1/2″ ply for 1,
- OR 1 and a half sheets of 1/2″ ply for 3
Materials
- Chalkboard tags or paint
- 1″ finish nails
- finishing supplies
Cut List
All cuts are made from 1/2″ ply
- 2 – 18 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ (sides)
- 1 – 9″ x 23″ (front)
- 1 – 23″ x 15 1/4″ (top)
- 1 – 23″ x 12 (back)
- 1 – 23″ x 15″ (bottom)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Mark your side boards as pictured above and cut along the lines. You can either use your jig saw to cut out the hole thing (just drill a hole inside where the handle will be so that you can get your blade in it) or use a 3/4″ paddle bit to drill two circles, and then use your jig saw to cut a line between them to create the handle). You’ll be making two of these.
Step 2
Attach the front to the sides with glue and 1/2″ finish nails.
Step 3
Attach the back, with glue and 1/2″ finish nails.
Step 4
Attach the top, using glue and 1/2″ finish nails.
Step 5
Turn the bin over, and attach the bottom, gluing and nailing.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
