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Plans
I know there are a lot of parts and pocket holes in this piece but I promise it will be well worth it! The upper and lower drawers are on slides while the middle row of “drawers” are actually just the fronts that are hinged and fold down for media (cable box, receiver, blu-ray or dvd player, etc.) storage. While assembly of this piece may require you to be a contortionist of sorts, the satisfaction of a job well-done is the best end result!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Drill
- Saw – Table Saw and Miter Saw, Jig Saw or Circular Saw
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 3- 1×2 at 8’
- 3- 1×3 at 8’
- 3- 1×4 at 8’
- 2 – 1×8 at 8’
- 7- 2×2 at 8’**
- 1 sht. ¾” plywood
- ½ sht. ¼” plywood
- ** If the quality of the 2×2 lumber in your area is not up to standard, you can rip a 2×4 on a table saw to a 2×2. This is not cutting the 2×4 in half… The dimensions of a 2×4 cut in half would be 1-1/2 x 1-3/4. A 2x2s dimensions are 1-1/2 x 1-1/2, so if you set your rip fence for 1-1/2” away from the blade, you will rip the board in half, then run the second piece through the saw again to cut it to size.
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 55” – Top of Front/Back Frames
- 8 – 2×2 at 26-1/2” – Frame Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 16” – Horizontal Frame Pieces
- 8 – 2×2 at 16-1/2” – Horizontal Frame Pieces
- 10 – 1×2 at 15” – Top Supports & Side Supports
- 10 – 2×2 at 15” – Supports
- 1 – 15’”x 52” of ¾” plywood – Top
- 2 – 15” x 22” of ¾” plywood – Sides
- 1 – 16” x 22” of ¾” plywood – Center Back
- 2 – 16-1/2” x 22” of ¾” plywood – Side Back
- 1 – 15” x 16” of ¾” plywood – Center Shelf
- 2 – 15” x 16-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Side Shelves
- 4 – 1×3 at 15-1/2” – Small Drawer Boxes Front /Back
- 2 – 1×3 at 15” – Small Center Drawer Box Front/Back
- 6 – 1×3 at 12-1/2” – Small Drawer Box Sides
- 4 – 1×8 at 15-1/2” – Large Drawer Boxes Front/Back
- 2 – 1×8 at 15” – Large Center Drawer Box Front/Back
- 6 – 1×8 at 12-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
- 6 – 14” x 15-1/2” of ¼” plywood – Drawer Bottoms
- 3 – 14” x 15” of ¼” plywood – Center Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – 1×3 at 16-1/4” – Small Drawer Fronts
- 1 – 1×3 at 15-3/4” – Center Small Drawer Front
- 4 – 1×2 at 16-1/4” – Drawer Front Spacers
- 2 – 1×2 at 15-3/4” – Drawer Front Spacers
- 4 – 1×4** (ripped to 3-1/8”) at 16-1/4” – Large Drawer Front (Upper Piece)
- 2 – 1×4** (ripped to 3-1/8”) at 15-3/4” – Center Large Drawer Front (Upper Piece)
- 4 – 1×4** (ripped to 3-1/4”) at 16-1/4” – Large Drawer Front (Lower Piece)
- 2 – 1×4** (ripped to 3-1/4”) at 15-3/4” – Center Large Drawer Front (Lower Piece)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut and assemble all pieces for the front frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material. Use 2-1/2” screws and glue for strong joints! Make sure the frame is square!
Step 2
Cut and assemble the frame pieces for the back. After checking the square of the frame, cut the plywood pieces for the back. If you are using this cabinet for media storage, you may want to use a hole saw and cut a hole at least 1-1/2” in diameter in the back piece (at the shelves) for a power cord to pass through. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and attach to the frame (with 1-1/4” screws) making sure the outside face of the back (opposite the pocket holes) is flush with the outside edge of the frame.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in each end of the 2×2 supports, then set the jig for ¾” material and drill holes in the plywood. Attach the 2x2s to the top and bottom edges of the plywood with the 1-1/4” screws. Make sure the outside face of the plywood (opposite the pocket holes) is flush with the outside edge of the 2x2s.
At this point, you may want to sand all of the parts that have been constructed so far, as well as any pieces that are going to be cut from now on. Once the piece is fully assembled, sanding may be a tad bit difficult!
Step 4
Attach the sides to the front and back frames with 2-1/2” screws and glue, again making sure the cabinet is square.
Attach the 1×2 supports to the inside of the sides and to the top at the measurements indicated. (See the notes on the drawings.)
The rest of the cabinet will be assembled in a “top-down” fashion.
Step 5
Cut the plywood for the top. The top will be glued to the top supports, then fastened with a brad nailer and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the upper and middle supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in each end. Attach to frame as indicated with 2-1/2” screws. The upper supports will sit higher than the face frame to allow for the fastening of the drawer slides. The middle supports will be even with the face frame.
Cut the plywood pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in the shelves. Attach the shelves to the middle supports and frame as indicated making sure the top face of the plywood is even with the front frame and supports.. The narrower plywood piece goes in the center.
Step 7
Cut the lower supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in each end. Attach to frame as indicated with 2-1/2” screws. The lower supports will sit higher than the face frame to allow for the fastening of the drawer slides just like the upper supports.
Step 8
Cut and assemble the 1×3, 1×8 and ¼” plywood pieces for the drawer boxes. Use the Kreg jig set for ¾” material. The bottoms can be attached with a brad nailer. You will have four drawers measuring 15-1/2” wide (two at 2-1/2” tall and two at 7-1/2” tall), and two drawers measuring 15” wide (one at 2-1/2” tall and one at 7-1/2” tall).
Attach the drawer slides to the upper and lower support pieces locating them ¾” back from the face of the front frame (this allows for the drawer fronts to sit flush across the frame). Install the drawer boxes and make any necessary adjustments.
Step 9
Cut all of the pieces for the drawer fronts. Set aside the 2-1/2” x 16-1/4” and the 2-1/2” x 15-3/4” pieces. These are the faces for the small drawers. Drill pocket holes in the long end of the 3-1/4” pieces and the 3-1/8” pieces and assemble with the 1-1/2” pieces in the center. Pre-drill the holes in the faces for the pulls. There will be two pulls on each of the larger drawer fronts to look like two drawers on each – see drawing.
Insert each drawer front into the opening and shim in place. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides for ease in opening and closing the drawer. Screw the drawer fronts to the boxes from the front through the holes for the pulls. Open each drawer and fasten the fronts with screws from the inside of the drawer box, then remove the screws on the outside. Finish drilling out these holes for the pulls.
Attach the middle drawer fronts to the openings with the hinges. Attach the drawer stops to the sides of each opening to keep the door from opening past 90 degrees.
Step 10
That’s it… Now wasn’t all of that cutting, drilling, twisting and turning worth it??
Finishing Instructions
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
All I have to say is *Swoon*… this piece is fab! The inspiration piece has a built in power strip. A hole can be bored into the back and a power strip can be mounted inside…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Half sheet of ½” plywood
- Half sheet of ¼” lauan or plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 5/8” brad nails
- 2 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 2 sets of hinges
- 18 cup pulls, handles, or drawer knobs
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 24-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 20” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 20” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 17-1/4” – Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-1/2” – Top
- 2 – ½” plywood at 4-5/8” x 9-3/8” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ½” plywood at 9-3/8” x 17” – Door
- 1 – ½” plywood at 10-1/4” x 17” – Door
- 4 – ½” plywood at 4” x 8-5/8” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – ½” plywood at 4” x 15” – Drawer Boxes
- 1 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 21-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 8-5/8” x 16” – Drawer Bottoms
- 14 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 2-1/4” x 9-3/8” – Drawer Pieces
- 4 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 2-1/2” x 9-3/8” – Drawer Pieces
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides. Mark the curve at the bottom using the measurements in the drawing and cut out with a jigsaw.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the height indicated – 1-1/4” up from the bottom.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end. The shelves will be located ¾” from the front edge and flush with the back. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in one long end only. The divider will overlap the shelf by ½” and be flush with the back. Attach to cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and divider.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer boards. Assemble as shown. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions locating them ¾” from the front edge of the cabinet.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and attach to the drawer boxes using glue and brad nails. The fronts will be located ¼” back from the front edge.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the doors. One door will be larger than the other to offset the drawer divider. The doors will be located ¼” from the front edge and there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door, including the center. They will also overlap the upper shelf by 5/8” to allow for an 1/8” gap between the drawer and the top of the door. (See drawing)
Step 9
Cut the smaller pieces for the “drawers”. Attach to the drawer fronts and doors with glue and 5/8” brad nails. There will be a 1/8” gap between pieces. The pieces for the drawers will be flush with the top and with the bottom allowing for a 1/8” gap in between. The pieces for the doors will be located in the same way, with two of the larger pieces (2-1/2”) at the bottom of each door.
Drill the holes for the handles and install.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Home / Shopping / Studio
I had the most amazing pleasure of visiting The Container Store last month, as part of my attempt to make over my Master Bedroom. A bit of storage was precisely what I needed, and if a trip down yonder for a little in-store browsing and organizational drooling was required, well that was just fine by me. It takes a very ‘special’ person to want to make an entire day out of a trip to a storage mecca such as this, but apparently for me, this kind of store is practically Disneyland. Bring on the Org…. Mama needs a new set of baskety bins…
Bins with an Ombre fade? Yes please…. and paired with charcoal gray jute? Double triple yahoo…
Has there been any organizational goodness happening on your end? do tell… and don’t leave out any of those fabulous juicy storage details.. Yes I probably need help. Maybe there’s a group for this?
Check out other articles from my Master Bedroom Makeover here
Plans
This rpoject makes two shelves, and is a fabulous and simple solution for all of those wine bottles you have stacked or stored on your counters…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×6 at 6’
- 1 – 1×10 at 4’
- Or scraps of plywood measuring 8-1/2” wide by 24” long
Materials
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Edge banding if using plywood, optional
- 1-1/4” hole saw or spade bit
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×6 at 24”, ripped down to 5” wide
- 1 – 1×6 at 24” ripped to 4-1/2” wide
- 2 – 1×10 at 24” ripped to 8-1/2” wide
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the piece for the front. Draw a line horizontally in the center of the board. Mark the spacing for the holes – 2” in from the end, six holes evenly spaced at 4” on center. Bore the holes part way through the board. Flip the board over to the back side, and finish boring the holes. This will keep the lumber from tearing out and splintering. Using the saw of your choice, cut the board in half down the horizontal line. You will have two boards with half-holes for your bottles!
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the bottoms. Secure the fronts to the bottom edges with glue and 1-1/4” brads.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the backs and secure to the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
To hang, locate and mark studs in the wall. Secure shelves to the wall by drilling countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the shelf into the studs.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
I made this Twine Easter Egg Tree using only items from my local dollar store! Love that place… so all totaled we are talking about no more than $5, assuming you already have white craft paint or primer and glue.
To make your own you will need these materials:
- Easter Tree
- Twine
- Floral Moss
- Paint
- Glue
- Decorative Eggs for Hanging
I began with this Easter Tree..
I painted the ceramic pot using white primer.
Once this was dry, I began to wrap the stem and branches with twine. This is a bit time consuming, and would still look just as good without the twine wrap, but I was looking for a slightly different look than what I had with the green stems.
To wrap the twine you will need to start about an inch from the base of the stem, leaving an inch of twine loose hanging down the base of the stem. You will then wrap the twine around itself and down toward the base of the stem to secure it.
Then start back upwards using a sparse wrapping technique. You will worry about coverage on the way down, the wrap on the way up is simply to get you to the end of any branch so that you can work your way down more precisely.
From this image you can see my sparse wrap on the way up the branch and my more covering wrap on the way down. Continue like this for each branch until you reach the very top and the last branch (the center stalk). Work your way down filling in any space that the stem is showing.
To secure at the bottom, cut your twine leaving 3 inches loose, then wrap as to wrap around the stem only insert a finger (thereby creating a bit of a loop) continue around and back, then tuck your end down inside. Trim if necessary, but don’t be too concerned by this since you are about to cover it with floral moss.
Using some sort of craft glue (even Elmer’s will suffice) paint the top of the inside of the pot and cover with floral moss.
Arrange your branches and either hang your decorative eggs as is, or paint them Robin’s Egg Blue and speckle them.
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
Plans
The twin sized version of this bed has been such a hit! And I am so glad because I absolutely love the loft bunk I built for my boy… and while I shared plans for a twin sized low loft bed (it’s most common for a loft bed) I actually built mine in a toddler size (I wasn’t ready to move up in mattress size in Monster Mash’s tiny room). So now, you have asked and I shall comply… Plans for the Toddler Size that I ACTUALLY built!
Below are the plans for this bed in other sizes! Something for everyone!
- 2 – 4×4 at 10′ Can use Fence Posts – untreated
- 2 – 2×6 at 8′
- 6 – 2×4 at 8′
- 4 – 1×4 at 8′
- 1 – 1×4 at 6′
- 4 – 4×4 at 54″ (Legs)
- 2 – 2×6 at 54″ (Front and Back Rails)
- 2 – 2×6 at 31″ (Side Rails)
- 2 – 2×4 at 54″ (Upper Back Rails)
- 4 – 2×4 at 31″ (Upper Side Rails)
- 1 – 2×4 at 23 1/2″ (Front Guard Rail)
- 2 – 2×4 at 35″ (Front Upper Rails)
- 2 – 2×4 at 60″ (Ladder Rails)
- 4 – 2×4 at 14″ (Ladder Rungs)
- 7 – 1×4 at 28″ (Slats)
- 2 – 1×4 at 54″ (Cleats)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the Legs to size and attach the Cleat to the Front and Back Rails using 2″ Screws.
To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the 4 pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2″ on either side of the Rails to allow for the Side Rails later, and clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16″ Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side, creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts.
Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.
Attach the Side Rails to the Front and Back Rails then fasten the Upper Back Rails to the Back Legs. Use 3″ Screws
Attach the Front Vertical Guard Rail, use 2″ Screws. Then fasten the Front Upper Rails to it and the Front left or right Leg. Use 3″ Screws to attach to the Leg.
Attach the Upper Side Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3″ Screws.
Lay your Slats approximately 4″ apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4″ Screws. Attach the remaining 2 upper Side Rails to the Back Rails and then either use a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) to create pocket holes and fasten to the front leg. If you don’t own a Kreg Jig you can also countersink and predrill at an angle from the outside edge into the leg. Use 3″ Screws
Create the Ladder. I give approximate dimensions for the height below, but the important aspect to focus on is the angle you will cut the top and bottom. The top of the ladder rails will be at a 75°angle and the bottom of the rails will be a 15°angle where the boards will rest on the ground.
Attach the rungs at approximately 8″ apart (this will depend on the age of your kiddo, the smaller and younger, the closer together these should be, you need to consider how easy it will be for them to climb down) and parallel to the ground. Use 3″ Screws to fasten the rungs to the rails and to fasten the rails to the Leg and Front Guard Rail. I suggest cutting away the point you will create at the very top, when you cut the 75°angle, for added safety. This will also give your ladder a bit of a hand grip up top.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Another project from the project request page (which will be moving to the community pages shortly for ease of tracking) and an amazingly versatile piece! Bath storage, book shelves, or display.. this piece will cover them all!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 3’
- 4 – 2×2 at 8’ (or 2 – 2×4 ripped to 1-1/2” wide, saving the excess for the X pieces)
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – ¼” strips at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 8 – 1×2 at 9” – Shelf Sides
- 8 – 1×2 at 17” – Shelf Front & Back
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 17” – Shelves
- 4 – 2×2 at 76” – Sides
- 4 – 1×6 at 9” – Upper & Lower Aprons
- 4 – 1×6 at 17” – Upper & Lower Aprons
- 2 – ¼” strips 1-1/2” x 78-1/2” – “X”
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 20” – Top
- 1 – 3’ piece of crown molding
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
** It may be easier to sand each piece before assembly **
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood pieces. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the shelf side pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the tower sides. Attach the shelves at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Drill pocket holes in the end of each board and attach to the top and bottom of the tower sides. The bottom apron will be located directly under the lowest shelf.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the “X”. Attach to the tower with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and apron pieces.
Cut the crown molding (or molding of your choice). Attach to the front and sides of the tower with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
We covered the Holman Shelf a long time ago, and now we shall add a bit of fun to it and step it up a notch!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’
- 1 – 1×10 at 2’
- Or scraps of plywood measuring 8-1/2” wide by 24” long
- 2 – ½” x 4” at 3’
- 2 – ¾” x ¾” dowels at 3’
- 1 – 1×6 at 24”, ripped down to 3-3/4” wide – Back
- 1 – 1×3 at 24”, ripped down to 1-3/4” wide – Front
- 2 – 1×10 at 24” ripped to 8-1/2” wide- Bottom
- 6 – ¾” x ¾” at 10” – Supports
- 2 – ½” x 4” at 10”, ripped to 2-1/2” wide – End Slides
- 4 – ½” x 4” at 10”, ripped to 3-3/4” wide – Middle Slides
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the bottom, front, and back. Attach the front and back to the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the dowel pieces for the supports. Attach to the bottom of the shelf at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the slides. The end slides will be located flush with the outer ends of the shelf and the middle slides will be centered on the supports. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Design / DIY / Home
Color trends tend to travel from the fashion world to home design and often trickle down to the landscape. We’ve been seeing orange in homes and on the runway for a while now, and its popularity was confirmed when Pantone named Tangerine Tango its color of the year.
We’ve seen a lot of great examples of orange in interiors, but it can be a bit more difficult to translate that to your garden. The first problem is that there just aren’t a lot of orange flowers (although I guarantee that will change as breeders work to develop more of them). The second issue is that for some reason orange can be intimidating to work into the garden (even though I bet you already have more orange that you think: terra cotta pots or a brick path come to mind). But it’s worth making an effort to incorporate tangerine into your garden: is there any happier color than orange?
Superbena ‘Royale Peachy Keen’ is the standout in a container including ‘Purple Ruffles’ Basil and Superbells ‘Blackberry Punch.’
There are a lot of factors that go into the look of a garden; structure, texture and color are some of the most important. And color in the garden is no different from color elsewhere. The color theory you learned in middle school holds true whether you’re talking about a 7th grade art project or a garden.
Don’t forget to think about foliage when looking to add orange to the garden. Some Heucheras offer great orange color.
One option is to go with a complementary (contrasting) colors scheme. We all remember that blue and orange are complementary colors, so that’s one easy way to make sure orange will work in an area of the garden. In her book “The Well-Designed Mixed Garden,” Tracey Disabato-Aust suggests that complementary-colored plants have another element, such as texture or form, in common to keep the effect from being too unsettling to the eye. The general rule of a complentary color scheme is to keep light colors light and dark colors dark. In other words a planting of a dark blue or purple plant will look better with a peachier orange partner. Bright orange and light blue just don’t work as well. But more intensely colored plants can work together if you reduce the amount of the lighter-toned flowers so that it is about one-third of the planting. So if you wanted to plant a bright orange daylily with Baptisia ‘Starlite Prairieblues’, you’d want about one-third daylilies to two-thirds Baptisia.
Globe thistle and an orange daylily offer the perfect example of planting complementary colors together. Note that the daylily is a lighter, more muted orange so the two plants can be used in more or less equal numbers and still look good. (Fine Gardening photo)
So I know you’re thinking that all sounds a little contrived, right? You’re picturing a field of wildflowers with blooms of every color and you think that looks pretty good. And you’re right. That’s called a polychromatic color scheme and it can work just fine if you’re looking for a more casual looking garden. Again it’s helpful to keep other aspects of a plant in mind such as texture and form. Keeping those similar can make the most of that riot of color.
A polychromatic color scheme creates a riot of color in which orange makes a big statement with just a few plants.
With all that said, I’ll add a bit of cop-out caveat: I think that if there is any place in which rules have no business, it’s the garden. If it looks good to you, that’s all that matters. But if you feel like a particular plant combination might be a little off, it could be that it’s not following some of the aspects of color theory mentioned above. And the great thing about gardening, is that almost everything can be moved until you get it right.
This is a good example of following the two-thirds rule: Use two-thirds of the darker color and one-third of the lighter color (in this case a yellowy-orange heuchera) for a balanced scheme that is pleasing to the eye.
I love using orange annuals. Containers near a door with a flash of orange (please note I’m on a one-woman campaign to ban the phrase “pop of color”) will draw attention like few others. And since annuals tend to bloom for most of, if not all, the season, you will have the benefit of blooms to help make your combinations, rather than guessing at what the actual bloom color will be.
This wild hanging basket has more orange than blue, proving that all rules were meant to be broken.
Here are some Tangerine Tango-inspired plants you may want to incorporate into your garden this year:
Annuals:
Verbena ‘Superbena Royale Peachy Keen’
Coleus ‘Colorblaze Keystone Kopper’
Diascia ‘Flirtation Orange’Osteospermum ‘Orange Spark Symphony’
Calibrachoa ‘Superbells Tangerine Punch’
Impatiens ‘Infinity Orange’
Fuchsia ‘Tassel Dark Salmon’
Nasturtium ‘Alaska Apricot’
Poppy ‘California Orange’ (will self-sow)
Zinnia ‘Profusion Orange’
Perennials:
Echinacea ‘Coral Reef’, ‘Hot Papaya’, ‘Flame Thrower’ ‘Tiki Torch’, ‘Tangerine Dream’
Heuchera ‘Georgia Peach’, ‘Ginger Peach’, ‘Amber Waves’, ‘Peach Flambe’, ‘Paprika’, ‘Southern
Comfort’Heucherella ‘Sweet Tea’
Agastache ‘Summer Sunset’
Coreopsis ‘Mango Punch’
Geum ‘Fire Storm’
Kniphofia ‘Mango Popsicle’
Hemerocallis (Daylily) ‘Bertie Ferris’, ‘Bull Durham’, ‘Mauna Loa’, ‘Tiger Kitten’, ‘Orange Vols‘
Chaemonmeles (Quince) ‘Double Take Orange Storm’
Potentilla ‘Mango Tango’
Rosa ‘Adobe Sunrise’, ‘Vavoom’, ‘All A Twitter’ (Miniature)Dahlia ‘Azteca’, ‘Bed Head’, ‘Cheyenne’, ‘Dare Devil’, ‘Ginger Willo’, ‘Gladiator’, ‘HotRod’, ‘Japanese Bishop’, ‘Koppertone’, ‘Neon Splendor’, ‘Swan’s Olympic Flame’
Cannas ‘Lohengrin’, ‘Bushfire’, ‘Star of India’, ‘Bengal Tiger’
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Plans
A simple stylish build for your family room with plenty of space underneath for magazines or baskets!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 4 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 17-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 38-1/4” – Long Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 25-1/2” – Short Aprons
- 2 – 1×2 at 38-1/4” – Long Shelf Support
- 2 – 1×2 at 25-1/2” – Short Shelf Support
- 1 – 1×2 at 26-1/2” – Center Support
- 1 – 26-1/2” x 39-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Shelf
- 1 – 28-1/2” x 41-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 42-3/4” – Upper Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 28-1/2” – Upper Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper as shown in the drawing.
Step 2
Cut the aprons and the shelf supports as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. The tapers on the legs will face to the outer sides. Attach the aprons to the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Locate them ¼” back from the outside face of the legs. Attach the shelf supports in the same manner, locating them ¼” back from the outside face of the legs, and also 4” up from the bottom of the leg.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the center support. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the center of the long aprons.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut ½” x ½” notches in each corner for the legs. Drill pocket holes in all sides and attach to the supports with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Locate the top of the shelf flush with the top of the supports.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the table frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top, into the legs, aprons, and center support.
Cut the pieces for the trim. The trim will for a ¾” lip around the top. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
If desired, a router and a decorative bit can be used to put a nice edge on the trim!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Entertaining / Shopping
We have had rain for a week now, and while the temps have been mild and the sun is at least currently shining again… I have a case of spring fever like you wouldn't believe! I can't think of anything but backyard bbq's and afternoons in the hamock with family and friends!
This outdoor dinnerware from Target pretty much sums up my imagined sunny dispostion (since truthfully I have morning sickness like you wouldn't believe, and it's definitely more like a cloudy day here than a sunny backyard fun day).
Teal Stripe Solera Collection
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You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
DIY
This is a tutorial on how to create a cute little photo vignette in 6 circles– perfect for use in a blog, mood board, or any other digital files you can think of.
What this tutorial requires is some sort of Photoshop or Photoshop Elements software, though it can probably be done similarly with a lot of other photo-editing software. Here, I’m using Photoshop CS5.
First, create a new document:
The Design Confidential’s main content section is about 598 px wide. It varies, depending on your platform
So I created a 600 x 600 px document, for web, at 72 ppi.
Set up some guides: If you have 6 photos, you’ll need 6 boxes. For the 600 x 600 px document, I put a grid at 200 px, 400 px, and horizontally at 300 px
Then I placed all of my images. I used File>Place, and rasterized [Layer>Rasterize or Right-click>Rasterize] them all, each on their own layer. I named them 1-6 so I wouldn’t get lost. I trimmed each photo so they weren’t overlapping by selecting the overlapping bits and deleting them from each photo’s layer.
See what’s going on below? Sacre Coeur, Photo 5, is overlapping that Eiffel Tower at night picture (Photo 6). So I selected the overlapp-y part, made sure I was on Photo 5’s layer, and then deleted that part of the image.
I created a new layer, then I drew circles, one in each section of my grid. You can just place the “Circle Mask Template” .psd file at the end of this tutorial, or if you’re feeling fancy, create your own shapes. Draw stars, ovals, rounded rectangles, whatever
This is where the magic happens. I move the Circle Mask Template layer to the bottom. Then, I select each of the photo layers (Shift+click on the layers). Then, I right-click on the layers, and a menu pops up. Scroll down to “Create Clipping Mask” and click.
You can also point your cursor at the lines BETWEEN the layers, and opt.+click. This will give you a little overlapping circle icon. That will create a clipping mask as well.
ET VOILA! You’ll see in your Layers panel that each photo has a tiny L-arrow next to it, indicating that it’s part of the clipping mask.
Save that bad boy as a .jpg for Web and Devices [File> Save for Web and Devices], and you are set to publish to your site.
Click here for the full PSD file with photo layers
Click here for the Circle Mask Template file (.psd)
Disclaimer: I’m a self-taught Photoshop gal, and there may be other ways to do this that I just don’t know. Also, this might be very different in other Photoshop versions. But the basics will remain the same.
All of the images in this tutorial (including the photos from Paris) are property of Melissa Fasolino, Zucchini & Co.
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
