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Several weeks ago we gave the garden a good cleaning out and sprucing up, you can read about that here, and in the process we accidentally set the stage for an invasion… Now some of you might remember our tomato surprise from last year, a fabulous and delicious surprise, but a surprise nonetheless. Well it seems that between the cleaning, sprucing, and accidental planting from last season, we now have a full fledged tomato field on our hands… eek. I’m talking quite literally hundreds of little tiny plants, that have sprouted up all over our teeny tiny little box for vegetable growing.
Now I need to begin the painstaking task of thinning out the plants, so that only 1 or 2 healthy plants remain. This single surprise plant became a veritable beast, last season, reaching well over 6 feet tall and several feet in width! I can only think it’s predecessors will do the same, and frankly I just can’t eat that many tomatoes, no matter how good they are! I started removing the smaller plants here and there and will continue to thin away the remainder of the field, and hopefully give some to local peeps who might want a delicious variety of cherry tomatoes! Hopefully…
In the meantime, I am working on the area that will soon be freed from tomatoes and I just happened to notice one of my sweet friends on FB shared a picture of a Celery bunch with a caption noting that you can simply cut off the bottom of your bunch and plant it in the ground for new growth to sprout from! Well this was a fabulous piece of info for me since I happened to have just such a bunch from my salad making endeavor earlier this week! Guess what went right into the first available space I cleared in my veg bed? Yep… celery! We shall see if I might actually be successful with this. No guarantees with my vegetable gardening history!
DIY
How to Build an In-Wall Cabinet:
When you’re short on space, an in-wall cabinet is a great idea! The possibilities are endless – a cabinet with shelves in the living room for displaying pictures, a bookshelf in the kids’ rooms, or a towel rack in the bathroom like I did!
The towel rack came out of the wall for the final time. I decided I was not going to put it back (again) and thought that in-wall cabinets with the towel racks mounted at the top was the perfect solution!
Wall studs are usually 16” apart on center (meaning 16” from the center of one stud to the center of the next stud) but occasionally walls like mine will have 24” centers. A word of warning, though – do not remove a stud to make a bigger cabinet without consulting a professional!
Locate the studs. Determine the height and placement of the cabinet. Draw a line where the drywall is to be cut away. Use a box cutter or hacksaw to cut away the drywall and use caution, especially if water or electrical lines are on that wall. Once the drywall has been removed, measure the depth of the wall and begin building the cabinet.
Walls are generally 4” thick. Exterior wall or walls with plumbing fixtures are usually 6” thick. Mine are the typical 4” so I used 1×4 lumber (which measures 3-1/2” wide) and ¼” lauan to build my cabinets.
When cutting the pieces for the frames, allow at least an 1/8” between each side of the cabinet and the stud. It can always be shimmed into place but it’s really hard to remove material if the cabinet is too wide! I drilled pocket holes in each end of the shorter boards and placed them on the outside of the box so they wouldn’t be visible. I attached the ¼” lauan back with glue and brad nails. I drilled three countersunk holes in each of the long sides. I then sanded the cabinet and painted the inside only. I set the cabinet in the opening and attached it to the stud with one 2” screw, then I checked to make sure the cabinet was level. I attached the cabinet with the remaining screws. Do not drive the screws too tight.
Since I made two cabinets side-by-side, I used only four corner blocks for trim. The top and bottom trim are continuous from the end of one cabinet to the end of the other which equaled 48”. For the center, I ripped a 3/8”x1x4 piece of craft lumber to 3” and installed it using brad nails. I filled all of the nail holes and painted the trim. I hung the towel racks with the set screw facing out (for obvious reasons). Don’t they look great??
Home / Shopping
With a bun in the oven, I've got baby gear on the brain, and this line of products from Babyhome, now available in the US, is making me want to ditch it all and go the lightweight, convertible, portable route! The Dream Cot in particular, has me drooling on high with it's easy one click conversion between a still bassinet and one with rocking motion option or an easy to move version with wheels. It pretty much had me at 'does lot's of things'… I'm such a sucker for multiple capabilities… Now let's see if I can convince the hubby it's as totally and utterly necessary as my pregnancy crazed mind believes it to be.
I kind of adore this Onfour Bouncer as well, with it's simple seeming physique, it disguises it's own set of fabulous capabilities. To be honest, I never used the bouncer I got for my Monster Mash, I could never figure out where to set it. On the floor or maybe a table? No clue. He had a swing and a excer-saucer that he (and I) enjoyed much more, so this dandy piece of cool kiddo gear is a little less easy to persuade myself into, but I love it just the same. Isn't it fabulous?
I'm curious if any of you have any baby gear you simply can't live without. I definitely had my share of things that made my life with a newborn so much better. I think we should compare notes…
Design / Home / Studio
I am excited to announce that I have partnered with Apartment Guide to serve as an Official Apartment Guide Decor Blogger! As an official blogger, I will be sharing articles and ideas for exploring your space, city and style.
Today’s topic is all about making the best use of your space. Whether you have an overabundance of it, or you are limited and making the best of tight quarters, a well thought out use of your square footage sets the tone for a well functioning and comfortable home.
Organize and Streamline:
Regardless of the amount of space you are working with, organization is key. Don’t let an overabundance of space become that oversized purse that you simply filled to the brim because you could. Keep yourself from becoming overwhelmed in a small space by donating excess items to a good cause – you’re sanity (and a local donation site of your choice, of course).
Consider how you live now, and how you would like to live ideally, and keep only those items that are absolutely necessary. I can tell you from personal experience it’s very liberating to get rid of things you don’t need. You don’t need redundant items for ‘what if’ scenarios that might occur in the future…I promise, and you certainly won’t miss having to store those extras in the meantime!
Everything in it’s place and a place for everything! If you have trouble finding a home for something, it might be time to consider whether it should actually have one. Can you live without it? Will your life be more difficult in the absence of this item? If not, rid yourself of the burden and send it on to a better place – a place outside your own place!
For more tips on organizing, visit Apartment Guide:
Dual Function or Reinvented Furniture:
For a small space, a clever use of your furniture may be precisely what your home needs. Rather than purchasing new pieces, reinvent those you already have by placing them in non-traditional locations and give them non-traditional uses.
An oversized coffee table, might be the perfect Media Center for your tv and dvd player. Perhaps an end table might work well as a more compact coffee table. An open console table, behind your sofa with room for a chair, might function fabulously as a desk, extra workspace or even a dining area and will free up the space that would otherwise need to be dedicated to your computer or a kitchen table. If not for use as an extra work surface, a console table is perfect for those table lamps you might typically place on an end table, and might provide extra storage space for books or blankets.
Get creative and think outside the box, a ‘table-like’ surface can be used in literally dozens of ways.
When in Doubt, Go Vertical:
If square footage is not on your side, think ‘upward and onward’ as you make your furniture choices. Where children and teens are concerned, consider giving them a sleeping space above a potential work or play space and maximize your overall living space in their bedrooms (and potentially in your main living areas as well). Floor to ceiling bookshelves with a smaller overall footprint, make sense if floor space is lacking in your particular space. Consider a fold down shelf inside a tall armoire that might be used as a retractable work surface, or a ‘sometimes’ home office. If freeing up floor space is your goal, using that extra wall space for hanging or floating shelves is a fabulous way to have that storage you need without impacting the visual or actual flow of your home.
For more Tips & Tricks visit Apartment Guide:
Disclosure Language:
Apartment Guide and owner Consumer Source, Inc. have partnered with bloggers like me as Official Apartment Guide Bloggers. As part of this program, I have received compensation. They have not told me what to purchase or what to say about the products used, and believe that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. Consumer Source’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.
Plans
This is the perfect project to use the stain I’m always gushing about – Rust-Oleum’s Ultimate Wood Stain in Sunbleached! Such a simple build but rich on style…
Tools
- Tape Measure Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 4 – 2×2 at 8’
- 6 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1x material ripped to ¾” wide for the trim pieces or 3/4″ square dowels
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- Two sets of hinges
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 39-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 23-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 50-3/4” – Back
- 2 – 2×2 at 50-3/4” – Front pieces
- 1 – 2×2 at 20-1/4” – Front piece
- 9 – 1×2 at 16” – Shelf & Top Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” 50-3/4” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” x ¾” at 55-1/4” – Front trim
- 2 – ¾” x ¾” at 19” – Side trim
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 55-1/4” – Top
- 13 – 1×2 at 16” – Slats/Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 50-3/4” – Slat shelf
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 21” x 25-5/8” – Doors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding on the plywood, apply it to each piece before assembly. Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the long edges of the side panels. Secure to the legs, with the front face flush with the face of the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Secure to the legs with the back face flush with the inside of the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the boards. Center the shorter piece as shown, and attach the frame to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports and top supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the cabinet as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. When attaching the center supports, they will be located horizontally with the lower support flush with the lower front piece. Attach the other piece at the spacing shown.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes all around (only on three sides of the upper shelf) and secure to the supports with the top of the shelves flush with the top of the supports and also to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. (The shelves will sit on the center supports.)
Drill pocket holes in each end of the top supports. (They should have been cut in Step 4). Attach to the cabinet as shown with the center support flush with the top of the front piece and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the trim. Secure the side trim first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the slat shelf. Drill pocket holes in the end of each board. Assemble the frame and slats as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the cabinet legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the doors. The doors will overlap the opening by ½” on the top and sides, and by ¼” at the bottom. Attach the hinges to the doors first, then to the cabinet. Attach any door hardware as desired.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
This was a build for a birthday girl, posted on our FB Fanpage! I had to share the splendor with you all. Margaret did the most amazing job on this build for her niece and I am super proud!
Design
I find myself craving clean lines, less fuss, and a clean, simple, well organized home. I happen to adore color in all of it’s mood creating splendor, but in the absence of being able to snap my fingers and be done with clutter, I find the neutrals of Nordic Design awfully Nice! Perhaps in my mind I’m simply trading a lack of clutter for lack of color, but who cares… This fabulous abode is soothing, without a lack of interest. I love the clever use of natural and unique materials for accessories and the quirky use of color (or lack thereof). Yes, this is where my mind is at, and I think it’s not a bad way to play it!
Plans
The upholstered panels are created separately then inserted after the bed has been finished. And this is one more project from our Project Request list checked off! If you have a project request, simply register for a member account and post your request in the community pages under Project Requests… easy peasy!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 7 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 2×4 at 8’
- 8 – 1×3 at 6’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 4 – Furniture legs at least 8” tall
- Nailhead upholstery trim and nails (go here)
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 51-1/2” – Headboard Sides
- 4 – 2×2 at 62” – Headboard & Footboard
- 1 – 2×2 at 65” – Headboard
- 2 – 2×4 at 80-1/2” – Side Rail Bottoms
- 2 – 2×2 at 6” – Side Rail Ends
- 2 – 2×2 at 82” – Side Rail Tops
- 8 – 1×3 at 62” – Slats
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 31-7/8” x 61-1/8” – Headboard Panel
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/8” x 80-3/8” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/8” x 61-7/8” – Foot Panel
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the headboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end of each of the pieces for the sides, and in both ends of the lower piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the lower rails. Drill two pocket holes in each end of these boards. Attach to the headboard as shown using the outer pocket hole only but DO NOT use glue! You may want to disassemble it someday!
Step 3
Cut the piece for the lower headboard rail. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown with glue (it’s ok on this piece!) and 2” pocket hole screws, also with a screw through the lower rail into this piece.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the side rail ends. Assemble as shown in the drawing with the pocket holes facing to the inside. Use glue and ONE pocket hole screw.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the top of the side rail. Drill pocket holes in one end of each piece. Assemble as shown with the pocket holes facing down and the screws secured into the headboard. DO NOT use glue at this joint but you can use glue to attach this piece at the end.
Cut the pieces for the footboard. Drill two pocket holes in each end of the piece that will be used for the top only. Secure to the side rail end pieces but DO NOT use glue. Secure the lower piece with a screw through the remaining pocket hole in the lower side rail and again, DO NOT use glue!
Attach the feet or legs.
Step 7
**The bed will need to be stained or painted before inserting the slats or upholstery panels.**
Cut the pieces for the slats and attach to the lower rail with countersunk 1-1/2” screws.
Step 8
Cut the panels for the headboard, footboard, and side rails. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back side to attach to the frames. They will be upholstered as follows:
Cover the front each panel with a thin piece of foam, then cover the front with upholstery batting. Lay the fabric over the top and secure at the edge of each panel with the upholstery nail strips. Trim the fabric leaving at least 1-1/2” of fabric around the edges of the panels (this will be hidden when the panels are inserted into the frames and secured.). Insert the panels into each of the openings and attach with 2” pocket hole screws.
When disassembling the bed, the panels will not have to be removed. For the footboard, only remove the screws attaching this piece to the side rails. For the side rails, only remove the screws attaching the panels and sides to the headboard. Nothing will have to be removed for the headboard.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Another project request checked off the list, and a fabulous addition to the Clark & Addison Collection! An easy and budget friendly build, this one can be tackled by the most beginner builder!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
- Kreg Jig – Optional
Lumber
- 2 – 1×6 at 10′
- 2- 1×6 at 8′
- 5 – 1×6 at 6′
- 2 – 2×3 at 6′
- 5 – 1×3 at 10′
- 2 – 1×3 at 6′
- 2 – 1×2 at 8′
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws – if using a Kreg Jig
- 1 1/4″ Wood Screws
- 2″ Wood Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 7 – 1×6 at 60 1/2″ (Headboard, Foot board Panel) – A
- 2 – 1×6 at 82 1/2″ (Side Rails) – B
- 2 – 1×6 at 59″ (Front and Back Bed Frame) – C
- 2 – 1×3 at 47 1/4” (Headboard Legs) – D
- 2 – 1×3 at 15 1/2″ (Footboard Legs) – E
- 10 – 1×3 at 59″ (Slats) – I
- 2 – 2×3 at 47 1/4″ (Headboard Legs) – F
- 2 – 2×3 at 15 1/2″ (Foot board Legs) – G
- 2 – 1×2 at 81″ (Side Rails Cleats) – H
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Headboard. Use your pocket hole system to join the Head board rails to the inner Legs and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, simply fasten your rails to the inner leg using a countersink bit and 2″ screws.
Step 2
Fasten the Outside Leg to the Inner Leg. Fasten from the inside of the leg, use glue and 2″ Screws. Build the foot board in the exact same manner, place the rail 1/4″ back, from the front of the Legs and will sit 1 1/2″ from the back of the front legs.
Step 3
Build the Bed Frame. Just as for the twin size, the Front and Back of the Frame will sit inside the side rails. Fasten the frame together using glue and 2″ screws, then fasten the cleat to the side rails using glue and 1 1/4″ screws. The bottom of the cleats and the supports will sit flush with the bottom of the side rails. Fasten the Frame to the Headboard and Foot Board. The top of the Frame should be fastened at 15″ from the ground or the bottom of the Headboard and Foot Board Legs. Fasten using 2″ screws to the legs, the Headboard, and the Foot Board rails that it will sit against.
Step 4
Cut your slats and fasten in place using 1 1/4″ screws. They should be spaced approximately 4-6″ apart.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Plans
In honor of the expansion of the TDC team, I thought crib plans were in order! Adjustable to three different heights… side rail removes to make a toddler bed.
**This is, as far as I know, the very first plan of this kind EVER posted on the interwebs… so with that said, consider this a major disclaimer: this should not be your first project ever and you should be very comfortable with the concept of building before you tackle this. While I feel there is safety in building our own furniture for our most important little people, I also feel a bit trepidatious about setting you loose with this. So, go forth with caution and understand that you are liable for your own building, and treat that with care… now, on to the show!
- 12 – 1×2 at 8’
- 10 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 2×4 at 3’
- 4 – 2×4 at 3-1/4” – Legs
- 6 – 1×3 at 30” – Base and End Frames
- 8 – 1×3 at 29” – End and Side Frames
- 36 – 1×2 at 29” – Frames
- 6 – 1×3 at 53-1/2” – Side Frames and Mattress Support Frame
- 2 – 1×3 at 26-3/4” – Mattress Support Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 52” – Mattress Slat Supports
- 8 – 1×3 at 26-3/4” – Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs as indicated in the drawing. Cut the pieces for the base and attach to the legs with glue and countersunk 2” screws. Make sure the outside edge of the legs is flush with the outside edge of the base.
Cut the pieces for the end frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each 29” board, and also in the long end of one of the bottom boards. Assemble the sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the sides to the base with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the outside face of the end is flush with the outside edge of the base.
Drill holes at the measurements indicated for the threaded inserts. Do not drill all the way through the boards.
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Drill pocket holes as shown (and in the long ends of the frame to attach it to the ends) and assemble in the same manner as the ends, except do not drill holes for the threaded inserts. **Spacing will be 2 3/8″ where noted and 2 5/16″ everywhere else.
Attach the side frames to the end frames using glue (on one frame only!) and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the mattress frame. Drill pocket holes in the ends of each of the shorter pieces and assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the mending straps to the shorter ends of the frame making sure to line them up with the holes drilled for the threaded inserts.
Cut the pieces for the mattress slat supports. Attach to the inside of the frame with glue and countersunk 2” screws.
Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the slat supports with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Attach the mattress frame at the desired height using the bolts through the holes on the mending straps inserted into the threaded inserts.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Another project from our Project Request list! If you have a request of your own, simply register (it’s free) and post your request in our community pages under Project Requests… we are getting these checked off the list left and right, so get to it, if you have something you are dying to build!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Hacksaw
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 – sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-3/4” screws
- 2” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 5 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 4 – 1”x 3’ Aluminum Tubes
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 11-1/2” x 27-3/4” – Sides
- 1 – 11-1/2” x 59-1/2” – Middle Divider
- 2 – 14-1/4” x 18” – Drawer Shelves
- 6 – 5” x 18” – Upper & Lower Dividers
- 1 – 18” x 59-1/2” – Shelf
- 1 – 28” x 63” – Top
- 2 – 1×3 at 24” – Stretchers
- 4 – 1” aluminum tubes at 29-3/4” – Legs
- 4 – 6” x 16” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – 6-1/2” x 30-1/2” – Center Drawer Front
- 8 – 4” X 15” – Drawer Boxes
- 10 – 4” x 16” – Drawer Boxes (Sides)
- 2 – 4” x 29-1/2” – Center Drawer Box
- 4 – 15” x 16” – Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – 16” x 29-1/2” – Center Drawer Bottom
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides and the middle divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the divider. Attach to the sides at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the drawer shelves. Drill pocket holes in one short end and one long end of each board as shown in the drawing. Attach to the sides and divider with the bottoms flush using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower dividers. Attach the lower dividers to the drawer shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
It may be easier to install the lower drawer slides before attaching the shelf. Install the slides with the end flush with the front edge of the sides and dividers (the drawer face will overlay the opening).
Step 4
Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes as shown. Install using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Install the upper dividers as indicated. Attach the upper dividers for the center drawer with the pocket holes facing toward the center. Install the remaining drawer slides.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the desk assembly with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The sides of the top will overlap by 1” on each side.
Step 7
Cut the aluminum tubes to 29-3/4” with a hacksaw. Pre-drill two holes toward the top of the legs to attach to the desk. Pre-drill holes in one side of the legs (the front and back – don’t forget, you will have left and right leg assemblies!) to attach each stretcher.. The stretchers should be located 4” from the floor. Attach the legs to the desk 1” in from the front and back with 1-3/4” screws. Do not over tighten the screws or it will smash the aluminum!
Cut the stretcher pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using 2” screws.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawers and assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottoms with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 9
For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. The shorter drawer fronts will overlap the sides by 1″ to cover the legs. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
