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Plans
An amazing storage piece with a fold down top that allows for the perfect hide away work surface!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 3 full sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 full sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 3 sets of 15” drawer slides
- 8 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- 2 – Drop Front Supports (go here )
- 1 Continuous Hinge for Work Surface
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 51-3/4” – Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 30-1/2” – Shelves
- 2 – 1×2 at 30-1/2” – Back Support & Lower Trim
- 1 – 1×4 at 30-1/2” – Front Support
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 32” x 51-3/4” – Back
- 3 – 1×4 at 7-1/2” – Inner Drawer Cubby Sides & Center
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2 x 30-1/2” – Inner Drawer Cubby Top & Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 33-1/2” – Top
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 6” – Cubby Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 11” – Cubby Drawer Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 13-3/4” – Cubby Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 12-1/2” – Cubby Drawer Front & Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 15-1/4” – Cubby Drawer Front & Back
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 13-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 13-1/2” – Larger Drawer Box Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 29-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 29-1/2” – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
- 3 – ¼” plywood at 15” x 29-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – 1×3 at 33-1/2” – Lower Trim Front
- 2 – 1×3 at 16-1/2” – Lower Trim Sides
- 1 – Casing at 32-3/4” – Upper Front Trim
- 2 – Casing at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Trim
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Work Surface Front
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Work Surface Trim Stiles
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Work Surface Trim Rails
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 30-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
- 4 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 4-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Trim Stiles
- 4 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Trim Rails
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 30-1/4” – Larger Drawer Front
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 8-1/2” – Larger Drawer Front Trim Stiles
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Larger Drawer Front Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides and shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of the shelves. Secure to sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The 1×4 piece will go in the front while the 1×2 piece will be in the back.
Cut the piece for the lower trim support and attach to the cabinet under the lowest shelf in the same manner as the other supports.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the inner cubby. Attach the sides to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws flush with the back at the spacing indicated.
Attach the bottom cubby piece first using glue and brad nails through the bottom into the side pieces. Attach the center support at the spacing indicated with brad nails through the bottom into the support. Fasten the top piece in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and center support.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the cubby drawers. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown in the drawing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the bottom. Attach the front and back pieces in the same manner with brad nails through the pieces into the sides and bottom.
Cut the pieces for the work surface and the trim. Fasten the trim to the work surface front with glue and clamp until dry. Attach the continuous hinge to the work surface, then to the shelf. There will be an approximate 1/8” gap around all sides of the work surface in the opening. Attach the drop front supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top. Fasten to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, front support, and back support. The top will hang over the sides and front by ¾”.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Attach the side trim first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the front piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front into the lower support.
Cut the casing pieces for the top side trim with a 45 deg. miter on the front edge. Attach to the sides of the cabinet under the top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Measure for the front trim and cut this piece with a 45 deg. miter on each end. Fasten to the cabinet in the same manner.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the other drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the side pieces and assemble as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the bottoms and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Attach the drawer slides to the drawers and cabinet following the manufacturer’s instructions. The slides will need to be positioned 1” from the front edge of the cabinet. Do not attach the drawer fronts!
Step 10
Cut the pieces and trim for the drawer fronts. These will be assembled in the same manner as the work surface. After assembly, drill holes for the knobs or handles. Shim the drawer fronts in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill screws through the holes for the knobs into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers, and secure the fronts to the boxes using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the knob holes and finish drilling out the holes.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Plans
Think of all the fun it will be to play with the finish… this DIY trunk is a fabulous dual function piece working as both storage and surface!
Lumber
- 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
- 3 – Baseboard trim at 8’
Cut List
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 35-1/2” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 20” – Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 37” – Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 38” – Top
- 4 – Baseboard trim at 38” – Trim
- 4 – Baseboard trim at 21-1/2” – Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
** If using edge banding, apply to each piece before assembly **
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front and back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach the side trim first using glue and 1” brad nails, then attach the front and back trim pieces.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. Cover the edges with the aluminum strap tape and fasten in place with decorative tacks or upholstery nails. Add the hinges and attach to the box.
Distress as desired.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I used 3 1x3s on the legs instead of a 2×3 and a 1×3. The tabletop width is 23″ (original design called for 24″, but the cut of Padauk I had was only 23″ wide). I hand sanded the legs, and screwed everything together by hand: the later because I didn't want to risk splitting any wood out… Especially on the pocket holes on the lower Padauk shelf. All cuts were done with a circular saw by hand.
Estimated Cost
~$250 in materials, (a good portion of this was the 8ft x 23″ x1″ Padauk)
Length of Time
This took me about 100 hours or so due to doing some things by hand, and it being my first project.
Lumber Used
Red oak, Padauk, (I considered using cheaper 2×2 Hemlock supports, but ended up cutting them a couple of 16ths short, so I replaced them with oak.)
Plans
Whether you live in a place where having guns is a requirement or you have guns for sport, you very likely need a good place to store them and lock them up away from little hands. Another project from our request page, this seems like a fabulous piece of DIY furniture for anything you might want to lock away and keep kiddos out of!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 2×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
Cut List
- 4 – 2×3 at 25-1/4” – Side Frames
- 4 – 2×3 at 23” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 23” – Side Frame Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/4”x 49” – Back
- 2 – 1×3 at 49” – Front Supports
- 2 – 1×2 at 49” – Front Supports
- 2 – 1×2 at 25-1/2” – Top supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 28-3/4” x 53-1/2” – Top
- 1 – 1×2 at 53-1/2” – Lower Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 28” – Lower Trim
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 24-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 48” – Smaller Drawer Box
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 24-1/2” – Larger Drawer Boxes
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 48” – Larger Drawer Boxes
- 3 – ¼” lauan or hardboard at 26” x 48” – Drawer Box Bottoms
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/4” x 50” Smaller Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 50”- Larger Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
** If using edge banding to cover the exposed edges of the plywood, apply it to each piece before assembly
**Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each edge. Attach to the frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panels are flush with the back of the frames.
Rout a rabbet in the right hand frame side for the gang lock according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. This will need to be done before any further assembly.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each side edge. Attach to the side frames with the back face flush with the edge of the side panels.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front supports and drill pocket holes in each end. The upper board will need a ¾” hole bored for the gang lock placement. (See the manufacturer’s installation instructions) Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with the front face flush with the front facing edge of the side panels.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the cabinet as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Also install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side frames and top supports. The top will overlap the front and sides by ¾” and will be flush with the back face of the side frames.
Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Attach the side pieces first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front piece.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the remaining drawer hardware and make any adjustments necessary.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. They will overlap the openings by ½” on all sides. Drill the holes for the handles and drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place on the drawer box. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes through the drawer boxes for the handles.
The gun holder brackets will have to be installed in the drawer boxes according to personal preference!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Shopping
From linen bath towels to felt trivets, Alder & Co is hitting a home run with their handmade wares and uber cool style. A tad beyond my price point perhaps, but utterly drool worthy, this site has something for all ages and needs! I think I might sell an organ (or two) to get my hands on one of those fab red rope baskets or dip dyed felt bins, not to mention the stuffed whale and starfish… to die for!
Showcase
Estimated Cost
The cost for just the lumber on the table was $87
Lumber Used
We used Douglas fur 2×4 for the apron and the frame and used select pine for the strips in the middle of the table top. Cut the 2×4 on top of table at a 45 degree angle glued them and pocket screwed them together from the back side, then Hand planed chamfer edges around the table top.
Finishing Technique
We finished the table with Minwax oil based jacobean and the center panels in ebonyand 4 coats of poly on the top of table and 3 coats on the legs
Plans
A real stunner, this DIY Furniture Plan will save you hundreds if you simply build it yourself! The drawers open from either side, making it convenient for two, if you prefer!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 4 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- 5 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- One full sheet of ¾” plywood
- One quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 8 – 2×2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 23” – Side Frames
- 4 – 2×4 at 11” – Side Frames
- 4 – 2×2 at 23” – Side Frames
- 4 – 2×2 at 11” – Side Frames
- 4 – 2×4 at 33-1/2” – X Braces
- 8 – 2×4 at 15” – X Braces
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 23” – Lower Shelf
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-3/4” x 26” – Drawer Rails
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 26” – Drawer Shelves
- 4 – 1×3 at 9” – Drawer Boxes (ripped to 2-1/4”)
- 4 – 1×3 at 23” – Drawer Boxes (ripped to 2-1/4”)
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 9” x 24-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – 1×3 at 9-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
- 2 – 1×2 at 30” – Top Supports
- 1 – 1×2 at 23” – Top Support
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 28” x 60” – Top
- 4 – 1×3 at 15-1/2” – Trim
- 4 – 1×3 at 26” – Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×4 pieces. Attach to bottom of legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 pieces. Attach to the top of the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the lower shelves. Drill pocket holes along each edge. Secure to the 2x4s in the frame with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Make sure the top of the shelf is flush with the top of the 2x4s.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the X braces. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the shorter legs to the longer leg with glue and 2” pocket hole screws, then attach to the corners of the frames in the same manner.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the drawer rails. Attach to the sides at the spacing indicated using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the drawer shelves and attach to the rails with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the top or bottom of the shelves into the rails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts. Place the drawer fronts in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the fronts in place. Open the drawer and attach the fronts to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Step 8
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the top supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of all three pieces. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 9
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, apply it to the edges then trim. The top will overlap all edges by 1”. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side frames and supports.
Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach the sides first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back trim in the same manner.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
I wasn't sure how to describe this particular style, so I gave my best shot with 70''s Inspired Desert Mod. It has taken me a bit of time to jump on this particular bandwagon, given my ties to the southwestern US and my desire to be completely rid, once and for all, of the Navajo inspired rugs and pastel colors with southwestern figures dancing in circles. Now… this episode of Style Files, is clearly not that. Clearly… but there are some similarities with the desert inspired accessories and a nod to all things handmade with fiber and patterns. Hence, the time it took for me to jump on board. But now that I have, I needed to share with you folks, one gal in particular who I feel is redefining these items for me, and frankly knocking this seemingly self created style out of the park! And that my friends would be Morgan Satterfield of The Brick House!
I would just like to throw my two cents into the mix here, and say that I predict this style will take off quite a bit and will infiltrate the ranks before you know it… Perhaps not amongst my most shabby loving of friends (yes you know who you are), but amongst the more indie leaning designers out there. And I for one, am on board.
Showcase
I love the colorful paint choices for this fabulous low loft bunk! I have a feeling the litle girl who lives here, loves them too!
Plans
Perfect for smaller spaces with larger needs on occasion, and super stylish too! This DIY Furniture Plan inspired by Potterybarn’s Eastlake Drop-Leaf Coffee Table is sure to please even the pickiest of requirements!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×12 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×8 at 6’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Drop Leaf Support (go here)
- Hinges for leaves
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood Glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×3 at 34” – Frame
- 3 – 1×3 at 28” – Frame
- 4 – 1×3 at 19-3/4” – Legs
- 3 – 1×12 at 30” – Top
- 2 – 1×8 at 30” – Leaves
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each of the shorter pieces. Construct the frame as shown with with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the legs. Using a jigsaw, cut the taper in the legs as shown in the drawing. Secure the legs to the frame from the inside with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Make sure the tapers face toward the inside!
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the top. Attach to the frame with 1/8” spacing between each board. Secure to the board with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the frame.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the leaves. Attach the hardware and leaves according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Finish as desired!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
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Lumber Used
I used mahogany and splayed the front and back legs.
