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Plans
This piece is inspired by a build using real ammo boxes. Its such a great rustic look and super easy! The boxes could also be used individually for storage!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
For ONE box:
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood (Half sheet total if cutting the top, too)
- 1 – 1×2 at 3’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Bungee Cords
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×6 at 12-1/2” – Sides
- 2 – 1×6 at 31” – Front/Back
- 4 – 1×2 at 7” – Trim
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 31” – Bottom (cut 2 for top)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides, front and back. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter boards. Attach the sides to the front and back pieces setting them ¾” from the edge to allow for the trim) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the trim and attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The trim pieces will extend past the top of the box by ¾”.
Step 4
For the magazine holder – build three boxes and stack them end to end. Secure to each other with a few screws from each side. Drill holes in the center of the sides and hook a bungee cord on each box. If the cord is too long, pull the end of the cord out from the hook, knot it, and cut away the excess. The box can be mounted to the wall but make sure the screws are located at the wall studs!
For the optional top, cut a piece of ¾” plywood the same size as the bottom and attach a handle to the top!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
I am excited to announce that I have partnered with Apartment Guide to serve as an Official Apartment Guide Decor Blogger! As an official blogger, I will be sharing articles and ideas for exploring your space, city and style.
Today’s Topic is all about how to choose the right neighborhood or city to live in, how I chose my own neighborhood, and some of the important factors in making the best decision for my family (or yours).
My family moved to my current home a little over 2 years ago, and I’m still glad about our choice of residence. I have a tendency to become restless in my surroundings when something is amiss, but I’m happy to say that so far, it hasn’t happened.
The following are just a few of the key ingredients that went into finding my perfect space, and things you need to consider when finding yours:
- Cost
- Size
- Amenities
- Education
- Proximity
Cost: Determining your monthly budget is absolutely crucial in choosing a neighborhood. Right off the bat, this factor alone will determine your possibilities. My family’s budget was pretty limited this last go around, and so my options were essentially limited to either newly developmed neighborhoods in previously undeveloped areas, smaller or ‘not so ideal’ existing space in a few favorable areas, or more suitable existing spaces in less favorable areas.
It didn’t take much to get me out there looking for places in neighborhoods I had never even visited, and wasn’t much of a decision at all when I was able to physically compare the new, well equipped communities that had popped up around town for a lot less cost, to the more trendy infill areas with virtually no space to show for your budget, and no amenities to speak of.
For more tips on choosing the right neighborhood: How to “test drive” a city
Space: How much space does your family require? At that point in my adult life 2 years ago, when we were looking for a new place we were a daily family of 3 and a small dog, with an occasional family of 5 or 6. This expandable family dynamic of ours made for a bit of a tricky arrangement for rooms we might require, at any given moment, and certainly helped seal the deal on which neighborhoods we were able to peruse. Since the older more established areas in and around my city tend to have smaller more historic spaces and don’t tend to have even a remote possibility for 5 rooms or places to slumber, on the best of days, this essentially rules them out for our current living condition needs.
Amenities: What do you need to be comfortable in your space? For me this is a tall order… I need in unit laundry facilities, a decent amount of storage space, a kitchen area that isn’t closed off from the remaining living space (I need to have a visual on the kiddo at any given moment), a living and dining area separate from a family room (in other words a great room would not work for me as the only family living space or I would need to budget an off site storage unit), a yard or relatively functional patio area, easy access to parks and walking trails, and as any female might suggest a bath in the Master Suite is a big bonus… no, scratch that…a requirement!
For more tips on choosing the right place to live: How to feel at home in a new city.
Education: Do you have school aged kids you need to consider? With my little man fast approaching pre-school age, the nearest elementary school was something that needed to be considered. Is it in a decent school district and well funded? Does it have a decent success rate and focus on education? Are there extracurricular activities available and what are they? What is the typical level of parental involvement for the kids?
I was lucky to find that several of the ‘newer’ developments were in good school districts with newly built school facilities and were comprised of young families that were focused on education and very involved in their kid’s daily activities. This definitely helped me feel comfortable that many of the areas we were looking at, would be good in the long run as well as comfortable in the short term with my list of growing amenity requirements.
For more tips on family friendly living: Best cities for families
Proximity: How far from civilization is the neighborhood in question and how far are you willing to travel? If a daily commute is something you deal with, knowing your drive time limit is crucial. While many families choose to stretch this in order to find a decent place, my personal belief is that this factor can considerably lower the standard of living for both parents and kids. If you choose a neighborhood more than an hour from your home, and there are traffic conditions to contend with, you will have substantially longer days, more restless nights, and a lot less time to spend with each other. For me, this is far from ideal and isn’t worth the sacrifice. Finding a neighborhood that suits my needs and is close enough to a freeway system or roads that will get me from one place to another easily, is important.
Equally important is the having the ability to run to the store for something last minute, without having to trek 20 minutes into town to get the job done. With kids in tow, a night time run is sure to occur, and dragging them out at all hours isn’t preferable. If your partner is stuck in traffic during rush hour and you are the only remaining hope for that very necessary dose of fever reducer, and you have to pile everyone in the car for 2 hours to get things taken care of, you can be sure there will be some irritated and uncomfortable parties involved in the end. Proximity may seem trivial in the beginning, but it becomes quite the heavy weight contender as time goes on.
Separating out your needs by ‘must haves’ and ‘really wants’ will help you weed through the options and find your ideal neighborhood and ultimately your ideal place. Be smart and think ahead and you will likely not have to move again in 6 months time, for problems you didn’t foresee.
For more Tips & Tricks visit Apartment Guide:
Disclosure: Apartment Guide and owner Consumer Source, Inc. have partnered with bloggers like me as Official Apartment Guide Bloggers. As part of this program, I have received compensation. They have not told me what to purchase or what to say about the products used, and believe that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. Consumer Source’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.
Plans
Another from the project request page, and a fabulous piece. With it’s industrial qualities this piece is sure to add interest as well as knocking out most, if not all, of your storage needs!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 3 – 2×8 at 8’
- 4 – 1×8 at 8’
- Two full sheets of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×8 at 87” – Sides
- 2 – 2×8 at 42” – Top & Bottom
- 8 – 1×8 at 39” – Shelves
- 6 – ¼” material at 7-1/4” x 87” – Dividers
- 1 – ¼” material at 42” x 90” – Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the top, bottom, & sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the side pieces. Assemble with glue and 2-1/2” screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut ¼” x 1” notches in the front of each shelf as shown for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the case at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Using a jigsaw, cut ¾” x 6-1/2” notches in each divider at the spacing indicated. Insert into the case at the notches on the shelves.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Sorry it isn’t staged very well… I have to have help bringing it inside!
Plans
We covered the towers (here and here) and now the vanity! Isn’t it fabulous? I know all you gals will appreciate this one.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer
- Brad nailer
- Chisel
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 6’
- Scrap piece of ¼” lauan or hardboard at 13-1/4” x 22”
- Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- Mirror cut to fit after frame is constructed.
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1 set of 12” drawer slides
- 1 – Drawer Handle or knob
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Router with Rabbeting Bit
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 5-1/4” wide) at 12” – Side Aprons
- 1 – 1×6 (ripped to 5-1/4” wide) at 28-1/2” – Back Apron
- 1 – 1×2 at 28-1/2” – Front Apron
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 3-3/4” wide) at 3” – Drawer Fillers
- 2 – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Drawer Slide Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 31-1/2” – Top
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 3-5/8” wide) at 22-1/4” – Drawer Front
- 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 11-3/4” – Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 22” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22” – Drawer Bottom
- 2 – 1×3 at 40” – Mirror Frame Sides
- 1 – 1×3 at 26-1/2” – Mirror Frame Bottom
- 1 – 1×6 (ripped to 5” wide) x 26-1/2” – Mirror Frame Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle with a jigsaw as shown.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to legs with the face of the sides flush with the face of the legs (angle of leg facing inside) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back apron. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to legs in the same manner as the side aprons.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the front apron. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to legs with the top flush with the tops of the legs, as well as the front face flush with the front face of the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the drawer fillers. Drill pocket holes in one 3” end (to attach to the top) and one 3-3/4” edge (to attach to the leg). Make sure the pocket holes on the 3-3/4” edge of the second piece are on the opposite side. There will be one left piece and one right piece. Attach to the legs and top apron using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the inside of the drawer fillers, as well as the inside of the back apron using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top. Draw the arc on the piece at the measurements shown and cut with a jigsaw. Apply edge banding if desired and attach to the vanity using glue and a brad nailer through the top into the legs and aprons.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and a brad nailer. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The slides will need to be installed ¾” from the front edge to allow for the drawer face. Do not attach the face! Make all necessary adjustments to the slides.
Step 9
Cut the piece for the drawer face. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening. There will be a 1/8” gap around the top and sides, the bottom will be flush with the bottom of the drawer fillers. Drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob.
Step 10
Cut the frame pieces for the mirror. Cut the arc in the top frame piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Place the screws so the router and rabbeting bit will avoid them.
Set the router bit depth to cut a ¼” rabbet. Cut the rabbet on the inner back of the frame to allow for the mirror. Use a chisel and hammer to square the corners. Adhere the mirror using mirror adhesive or a tab framing gun. The mirror frame can be attached tot he vanity with pocket screws through the side frame as well as metal mending plates.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
DIY
Replacing a window is one of the easiest projects you can do yourself. In fact, the hardest and most time-consuming part is removing the old window!
Let’s start with a few window-buying basics. Choosing a replacement window is not only about how it looks or how well it fits your budget but also about how much money it will save in the long run! Knowing what the values and factors on the sticker mean can save you big bucks on your energy bill later!
Here is a picture of the sticker that was on one of my windows…
See where it says U-Factor, Solar Heat Gain Coefficient, and Visible Transmittance? The U-Factor is “the number of BTUs (British Thermal Units) per hour that pass through that assembly per degree Farenheit under a steady rate of heat flow” (taken from the Green Advantage Study Guide). In other words, this is how much heat you’ll feel coming through the window on one of those 110 deg. days we’re sure to have this summer. The lower the U-Factor, the better the insulation. The Solar Heat Gain Coefficient “measures how well a window blocks heat by sunlight” (taken from the Green Advantage Study Guide). The lower the SHGC, the better the window is at blocking unwanted heat. The Visible Transmittance is “a measure of the amount of light that comes through a window” (taken from the Green Advantage Study Guide). The higher the number, the more light that passes through. This is great for using natural light without the excess heat the summer sun can cause.
Start by measuring the window opening. Remove any window trim, jambs, and the sill to get a good measurement of the rough opening. The rule is to take three measurements of the width (top, center, and bottom) and height (left, center, and right), and use the smallest measurements for your rough opening. When ordering the windows, the rough opening is used in determining the replacement window size unless it is otherwise specified. Generally, the window will be 1/2″ smaller than the rough opening. When I ordered my windows, I went a full inch smaller than the rough opening because it is easier to shim it in place than to take away from a window that is too large!
My old windows had aluminum frames with the flanges screwed under the siding. We cut the window away from the flange with a reciprocating saw fitted with a metal-cutting blade. This truly is the hardest part… Not that it’s really “hard” but that the rest of it is so easy!!
Next, I cut a piece of 1×6 for the window sill. The windows sit side-by-side and I made the sill one continuous piece. Once I cut it to length and notched it as it needed to be, I laid it in the window opening and checked for level. Luckily, it was perfectly level! I used a brad nailer and nailed it into place. If the sill were not level, I would have used a few shims underneath to make it level, then nailed it into place.
Then, we placed one window into position. I wanted to make sure the outside of the window was level with the high point of the siding to make it easier to attach the trim. Once it was settled into place, I drilled countersunk holes approximately 2” down from the top (on the side) and 2” from the bottom. The window was shimmed into place, maintaining a level position, and the screws were driven in.
I like to install the trim on the inside first before using the expanding foam. It keeps the mess outside! Measure the distance from the window to the inside wall. Mine measured 2-1/4” so I ripped 1×3 lumber to 2-1/4” then framed out the top and sides of the window. I used a brad nailer and 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the pieces in place. Add any molding or trim around the window. Caulk around the window and where the framing pieces meet the trim.
The next step was to fill in around the window with expanding foam for doors and windows. Use it sparingly, it will expand a lot! I am the queen of over-filling the voids with the foam and then I end up with a lot to trim away. (But it works!)
I like to use PVC trim on the outside. Do not use nails or screws to secure the outside trim to the siding. Nails or screws on the siding can cause rust, air pockets, and also a way for critters or water to get under the siding. Attach the trim with weather-resistant silicone. It will act as a glue and hold the pieces in place but will remain flexible for movement caused by temperature changes.
Plans
We have plans for the chair, and now for the barstool! Yahoo.
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw – Jig or Circular
- Kreg Jig
- Staple gun
Lumber
- 1/4 sheet – 1/2” plywood (2’ x 4’ and can be low grade ply )
- 2 – 2×2 at 8′
- 1 – 2×4 at 8′
Materials
- 1″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
- Staples
- Batting (chair padding) – about 1″ or so, in thickness
- Fabric – upholstery weight preferable **For 60” fabric width you will need 1 yard. **Any width less than 60” you will need 1 1/4 yards
Cut List
- 1 – 1/2″ Ply at 16 3/4” x 15 3/4” (chair back)
- 1 – 1/2″ Ply at 19″ x 19″ (chair seat)
- 2 – 2×4 at 46” (Back legs)
- 2 – 2×2 at 23 1/4” (front legs)
- 7 – 2×2 at 16” (chair aprons and rails)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your 2×4’s in the shape and dimensions indicated below. To begin, draw out the cut lines as you see them here, go slow, and be accurate. You will have the most success cutting this, with either a circular saw or jig saw. A jig saw can cut right along the lines you draw, whereas with a circular saw, you will need to stop at each change of direction and angle, and carve out the triangular piece you began with, before moving on in another direction. You want to be sure both legs match and that the bottom of the legs, and the 3” vertical center (where the seat will connect), line up as perfectly as possible. To ensure matching dimensions and angles, clamp the legs together after you cut them out, and sand the matching faces of both at the same time for all 4 sides. Once they are matching and sanded, connect them with the rail as indicated below. It will sit at the bottom of the 3” vertical space on the legs.. You can sand and finish this section or wait until you attach it to the chair front, but be sure to finish it prior to attaching the seat with it’s upholstery.
Step 2
Build the front: cut all pieces to size, then place your pocket holes in the areas indicated below. Use your 1 1/2” setting and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut your corner supports and place your pocket holes in an L-shape as indicated below, drill a hole in the center of each support. This hole will be used to attach your seat in a later step. Then attach the chair front to the chair back. Use the back aprons to attach, and secure from the inside as indicated in the bottom image.
Step 4
Cut out and then notch your seat bottom. **Do not attach yet, as we will be upholstering it next step. The dimensions are shown below with 1 1/2” squares notched out of the back corners
Step 5
Cut your batting and fabric to size, and using your staple gun secure to the backside of the seat bottom. Staple them both at the same time, together. Start by stapling in each corner including the corners of your carve outs. Then you will work in a clockwise manner, stapling once per side (in the center of a remaining space) as you go around, continuing on in this manner until the fabric is completely secured. This pattern of stapling ensures that your fabric is not skewed or pulled more tightly on one side and helps you avoid wrinkling and pleating that you didn’t intend for. You will likely have a tiny bit of overlapping fabric in corners, but if you work in this manner, by stapling the corner then folding over the remaining corner fabric and stapling it, you can control the folding and make it appear nice looking.
Cut your rails and panel insert to size, then create your pocket holes for them. **Do not attach yet, only create your pocket holes. The rails (both top and bottom) will have 1 pocket hole on either end of the back side (not shown).
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Home
Did you know that most counties include Chickens in their list of acceptable domestic animals? It’s quite true, assuming none of those chickens are actually roosters. That would violate most noise restrictions and bug your neighbors to death! So, does this news get your creative wheels turning? Does it bring out the urban farmer in you? It sure does for me. So while I work on a plan to increase the size of our backyard, I thought I would share 3 amazing examples of hand built chicken coops, one of which has plans available for purchase!
This gorgeous specimen from Heather Bullard is a farmhouse gal’s dream come true, and if that happens to be you, you are in luck because this is the coop you can purchase plans for!
For those of you who like a more modern style, this cool as a cucumber, more compact coop built by architect Mitchell Snyder is perhaps just the thing.
Built using the previous two coops as inspiration, this amazing display of building prowess by The Art of Doing Stuff, turned out spectacularly!
Have any of you embarked on the urban farming path? Did you build a coop or buy one? I would love to see…
Plans
We are back with part 2 of this project for the drawers and corkboard bin, after we covered part 1 yesterday (found here). This DIY Furniture plan is sure to solve quite a bit of your storage issues, so get building!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- Scraps of ¾” plywood from the Hampton Tower
- Scraps of ¼” plywood from the Hampton Tower
- Or…
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 3 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 3 – ¾ sq. x 3’ dowels
- 12” sq. cork tile, ¼” thick
- Half sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 6 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Router with Rabbeting Bit
- Countersink bit for drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
(Dimensions for cutting plywood scraps are in parentheses)
- 1 – 1×2 at 9-5/8” – Corkboard Frame (1-1/2” x 9-5/8”)
- 2 – 1×2 at 16” – Corkboard Frame (1-1/2” x 16”)
- 1 – 1×6 at 9-5/8” – Corkboard Frame (1-1/2” x 9-5/8”)
- 1 – Cork tile at 9” x 9-5/8” – Corkboard
- 2 – 1×2 at 2-1/2” – Corkboard Bin Sides (1-1/2” x 2-1/2”)
- 1 – 1×2 at 9-5/8” – Corkboard Bin Bottom (1-1/2” x 9-5/8”)
- 1 – 1×3 at 11-1/8” – Corkboard Bin Front (2-1/2” x 11-1/8”)
- 6 – 1×3 at 12-1/2” – Small Drawer Sides (2-1/2” x 12-1/2”)
- 3 – 1×3 at 16-1/4” – Small Drawer Back (2-1/2” x 16-1/4”)
- 3 – 1×4 at 16-1/4” ripped to 2-3/4” wide – Small Drawer Front (2-3/4” x 16-1/4”)
- 6 – 1×6 at 12-1/2” ripped to 5” wide – Large Drawer Sides (5” x 12-1/2”)
- 3 – 1×6 at 16-1/4” ripped to 5” wide – Large Drawer Back (5” x 16-1/4”)
- 3 – 1×6 at 16-1/4” ripped to 5-1/4” wide – Large Drawer Front (5-1/4” x 16-1/4”)
- 6 – ¾ square dowels at 14-3/4” – Drawer Bottom Support
- 6 – ¼” plywood at 13-1/4” x 16-1/4 – Drawer Bottom
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Corkboard Frame:
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1×2 and the 1×6 pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Using the router and the rabbeting bit, cut a ¼” deep rabbet on the back side of the frame at the opening for the cork. Cut the cork to fit and glue in the opening.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the bin sides and bottom. Attach the sides to the sides of the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach to the frame from the back side with 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the bin sides and bottom.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the front of the bin. Attach to the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the corkboard to the door with countersunk 1-1/4” screws making sure to avoid the mirror.
Step 4
For the Drawers:
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Assemble as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The drawer fronts will be ¼” longer than the sides and back to accommodate the bottom.
Step 5
Cut the dowel pieces for the bottom support. Attach to the inside of the drawer front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bottom of the dowel will be flush with the bottom of the sides.
Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the sides and bottom support using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill holes in the front for the knob or handle.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This plan has drawers and cork board bin , plus vanity portion is coming soon…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- Router
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- One full sheet of ¾” plywood
- One half sheet of ¾” plywood
- One full sheet of ¼” plywood (save excess for drawer bottoms)
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Hinges for door
- Mirror for door
- Button tabs to hold mirror in door
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Rabbeting bit for router
- Hammer
- Chisel
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×2 at 4-1/2” – Feet
- 4 – 1×3 at 4-1/2” – Feet
- 2 – 1×2 at 11” – Base Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 13” – Base Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 18” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 67-1/2” – Sides
- 8 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 16-1/2” – Shelves
- 1 – 1×3 at 16-1/2” – Upper Support
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 19” – Top
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 69” – Back
- 2 – 1×3 at 11-1/4” – Door
- 2 – 1×3 at 64-3/4” – Door
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the feet. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Remember to assemble two facing one way and two facing the other way (see drawing).
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the base sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach to the base with 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the bottom into the base.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the bottom/base assembly with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the 14-3/4” ends and attach to cabinet with glue and pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated. The shelves will be set 1-1/2″ back from the front edge of the cabinet.
Cut the piece for the upper support and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the cabinet with the outside face flush with the front edges of the cabinet.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces making sure to allow room for the rabbet. Using the router, cut a rabbet in the frame for the mirror. Chisel the corners square in the rabbet. Attach the hinges to the door, then attach the hinges to the cabinet. (There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door)
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Just got done building this for my wife…have another in the works. I modified the size/design a bit to accommodate some seat cushions we already had…also flush mounted the seat bottom for the same reason. I ended up using 1×2’s because I couldn’t get 2×2’s made out of cedar…Anyway thanks for the design…
