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One part dresser, plus one part cubby, equals a whole lotta awesome! This project pairs perfectly with the bed we covered yesterday and with a few other pieces still to come!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¼” lauan, plywood, or hardboard
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 4 – drawer knobs or handles
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 31” – Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 15” – Side Panels
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 24” – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×2 at 53” – Bottom Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 54-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – 2×2 at 4-3/4” – Support Leg
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 25-1/2” – Dividers
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 15” – Shelves
- 2 – 1×2 at 12” – Front Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 27-1/2” – Drawer Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 18” – Drawer Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 57-1/2” – Top
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 27-3/4” x 56” – Back
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 14-1/2” – Small Drawer Box Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 12-3/8” – Small Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 12-3/8” x 14-1/2” – Small Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 26-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 14-1/2” x 26-1/2” – Large Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 13-1/8” – Small Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 27-1/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the bevel in the legs as shown with a jigsaw or circular saw.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the side panels frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The face of the frame pieces should be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the leg frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The panels should be flush with the outside face of the frame.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the bottom. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches in the corners of the bottom piece. Drill pocket holes as shown.
Cut the pieces for the bottom sides. Attach to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom piece should be flush with the top of the side pieces. Attach to the side panels with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only. Attach to the center of the bottom with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one end to attach to the bottom.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each of the 18” ends. Attach to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” screws.
Attach the dividers to the bottom and the shelves to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the drawer shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the dividers at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the drawer divider. Drill pocket holes in one end and attach to the upper drawer shelf as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the sides and front by ¾”. Attach to the dresser using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the legs, side frames, front supports, and drawer divider.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottoms with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 9
For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
I’m excited to bring you a new bedroom collection, it’s been a while since we tackled a whole bedroom collection, and I think you will love it as much as I do! At least I hope you do… I might also be partial because of the name… After all it’s my Monster Mash’s name, so it must be good, right?
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 2 – 2×6 at 8’
- 5 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 5 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- One half sheet of 3/4″ plywood
- 2 – 2×6 at 42-1/2” – Headboard Leg
- 2 – 2×6 at 30” – Footboard Leg
- 2 – 2×2 at 39-3/4” – Headboard/Footboard Frame
- 2 – 1×6 at 39-3/4” – Headboard/Footboard Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-13/16” x 39-3/4” – Headboard Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-9/16” x 39-3/4” – Footboard Frame
- 2 – 1×6 at 76” – Side Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 76” – Slat Support
- 11 – 1×3 at 39-3/4” – Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the headboard legs as shown.
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×6 frame piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 piece. Attach to the frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws with the pocket holes facing down.
Cut the piece for the headboard panel. Cut an 8 deg. bevel on the bottom of the panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the frame with the face of the panel flush with the face of the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the footboard legs as shown.
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×6 frame piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 piece. Attach to the frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws with the pocket holes facing down.
Cut the piece for the footboard panel. Cut a 15 deg. bevel on the bottom of the panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the frame with the face of the panel flush with the face of the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side rails. The rails will be located ¾” in from the outside edge of each face. Drill pocket holes at each end and assemble as shown using 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Do not use glue – you may want to disassemble it someday!
Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Attach to the side rails locating them 1” above the bottom of the rails using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not glue these pieces in either!
Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the supports spaced approximately 4-1/2” apart using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Shopping / Studio
As I mentioned in this post, with baby on the way, not many ‘actual’ projects have been getting done around here… But, I have been doing my fair share of shopping in the meantime. Gal’s gotta keep busy, right? One of the many problem areas of my home is the extreme heat we face in the backyard each summer. With temperatures in my regions climate starting to climb, this has been a looming concern for the last couple of months.
Since we are currently renting our casa, building a permanent structure, like this, is out of the question. With the occasionally very windy day, a ready-made version of a gazebo, like this, becomes problematic as well, not to mention our patio is just a tad too large for one to suffice, and so there’s that… We would need 2 and really have no way to secure them adequately.
The cantilevered umbrella seems to be a very viable option except that the price point puts most of them well beyond reach and I still need 2 to provide enough shade to make the backyard sufferable.
Then I found these gorgeous specimens at IKEA… Sold! $200 for a pair, plus the cost of pavers to provide proper weight for the bases, about $16, and I am still coming in at a fraction of the cost of just one cantilevered umbrella from another retailer! Score!
Ask me how long it took me to send the hubs down to the nearest IKEA to get these beauties? About 5 seconds… yep! done and done! I chose the white variety since the fabric is washable and I think white tenting and umbrellas look quite resort-chic… LOVE them.
DIY / Home
This project has been ‘in progress’ for literally months. It’s ridiculous really, given how simple these DIY curtains actually are, but you see, shortly after starting this project I found out I was expecting baby #2, and promptly began having morning sickness… awesome. Now that things are beginning to settle a bit I have been attempting to finish all of the fabulous things I started way back when! We are only 3/4 way through the year now, no big deal… and better late than never I suppose! So, let’s get started with the ‘how to’ on this bad boy before I lose steam again, shall we?
I have included photos for the step by step instructions, but for those of you who aren’t at work, there is an adorable (and relatively short) video near the bottom of my Monster Mash boy showing you how to create these beauties on your own! Thank you to 3MDIY.com for sponsoring this post and project! I hope you enjoy… Be sure to pay special attention to the safety and prep items listed below. Even simple acrylic paint in a well ventilated area can be more toxic than you think and your eyes and throat will suffer for it.
Materials:
I began by cutting my fabric into 8 foot lengths, and then folded it in half (at the 4 foot mark) to delineate where my lines should meet (in the middle, duh). I taped off the pattern I wanted to create using Scotch Blue Painters Tape. I was sure to make the points precise on the inside of the pattern (in between the tape lines) using scissors so that it looked proper.
The small bottle of DecoArt Fabric Medium calls for a 2:1 ratio, so that means I needed 4 oz of black paint for the 2 oz bottle of Fabric Medium I was using. I mixed them well in a sealable Tupperware container so that I could cover and reuse between curtain panels. I used a 1″ artist’s brush to pounce the fabric medium paint mixture into my taped off pattern, careful not to let it seep under the edges of the tape.
I let the paint dry for half a day or so before pulling the tape off. In this particular instance I was careful when removing my tape template so that I could simply turn it and reapply to my fabric for the bottom half of the panel
I aligned the bottom point so that my painted pattern would meet well in the center, and began the process again. Rinse and repeat if you will…
Once it air dries completely, you will want to follow the instructions on the Fabric Medium bottle and iron and then wash to complete. Once I did all of that I simply cut down the center (vertically) to create to opposing panels and hung them up! Whether this baby is a boy or a girl they will have some fabulous graphic curtain panels to enjoy for months to come! Now that we are at the end of this how-to, enjoy this cute video with a bit more detail and fun where it comes to safety and prep!
3M TEKK Protection
This post is brought to you in partnership with 3M DIY. Learn how to work smart and be prepared at 3MDIY.com.
Content and/or other value provided by our partner, 3M DIY.
Plans
If you loved the Toscana Table but need something fabulous for outdoor use, this easy to build DIY table is just for you! Complete with cooling tray down the center, it’s the perfect party addition to your summer bbq plans!
- 9 – 2×4 at 8’
- 7 – 2×6 at 6’
- 8 – 2×4 at 20-1/8” – Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 43-13/16” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 36-1/2” – Frame
- 4 – 2×4 at 64” – Frame & Supports
- 4 – 2×4 at 12-1/2” – Supports
- 1 – 2×4 at 58” – Stretcher
- 2 – 2×4 at 38-1/2” – Top Ends
- 6 – 2×6 at 63” – Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the straight edges of the shorter pieces. Assemble in an “X” as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. There will be four assemblies. Using glue and 2-1/2” countersunk screws, secure two Xs together back to back (pocket holes on the inside) to form two table legs.
Cut the pieces for the aprons and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer apron pieces as well as the stretcher. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each of the longer apron pieces, as well as the center of each shorter piece, to attach the table top. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach the legs to the frame using glue and 3” countersunk screws from the outside. The top of the legs should be flush with the top of the frame.
Attach the stretcher to the center of the cross-sections of the Xs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as well as in one long end of the longer pieces to attach the top. Secure to the frame as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the table top. Drill pocket holes in the 2×6 pieces as shown. Assemble the 2×6 pieces together first using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the 2×4 ends using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
The top will overlap the frame by 1” on each side, and 1-1/2” at each shorter end. Use 2” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the frame into the table top.
Cut the gutter to fit in the center space allowing for the end caps. Using sheet metal screws, drill through the gutter into the top pieces. Drill a few holes in the bottom of the gutter to allow for drainage.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Easy to build and would look fabulous with the Toscana table as well as a variation of that table meant for outdoor use, that we will be posting tomorrow! yahoo… Allows for a cushion sized at 21x21x4.
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4′
- 4 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – scrap of 1×4 at 16”
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2” – Upper Back Legs
- 2 -2×2 at 17-1/4” – Lower Back Legs
- 2 -2×2 at 13-1/4” – Front Legs
- 7 – 1×3 at 18” – Back Slats & Front/Back Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 19-1/2” – Side Aprons
- 1 – 1×3 at 20-1/2” – Center Support
- 6 – 1×3 at 16” – Seat Slats
- 1 – 1×4 (ripped to 3”) – Back Seat Slat
- 2 – 1×3 at 22-1/2” – Seat Sides
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the angled pieces to attach to the lower legs. Secure with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. The slats will be flush with the face of the upper back leg. Secure at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.
Cut the piece for the back apron. Secure the piece to the back legs at the measurement shown set back ¼” from the back face using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front legs and apron. Drill pocket holes in each end of the piece for the apron and secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The apron will be set back ¼” from the front face of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. They will be set back ¼” from the outside edge.
Cut the piece for the center support. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure in the center of the front/back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the seat. Cut 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notches in the back of the longer pieces to allow for the legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the seat slats and secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The 3” slat will be located in the back. Attach the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
A comletely unique piece, this build is sure to add not only visual interest to your home, but a bit of seating and storage as well!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 6’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 1 pair 16” drawer slides
- 1 – drawer handle or knob
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 1 – 2×2 at 33-1/4” – Back Leg
- 3 – 2×2 at 17-1/4” – Front & Back Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 35” – Front & Back Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 17” – Sides
- 2 – 1×3 at 18” – Seat Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 38” – Seat
- 2 – 1×2 at 15-1/4” – Back Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 17-1/2” – Upper Back Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 21” – Upper Back Frame
- 2 – 1×4 at 17-1/2” – Slats
- 2 – 1×4 at 21” – Slats
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/4” x 18-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – 1×2 at 12-1/4” – Front Apron
- 1 – ¼” lauan or hardboard at 8-1/4” x 13-3/4” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 19-1/4” – Top
- 2 – 1×6 at 11-1/4” – Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – ¼” lauan or hardboard at 11-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7” x 13-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and the front and back aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces. Attach the aprons to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The aprons should be set ¼” back from the front face of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides and seat supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Attach using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The side pieces should be set ¼” back from the side face of the legs. The supports will be located at the dimensions shown.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the seat. Cut a 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notch out of the upper left corner for the longer back leg. Attach the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the seat into the frame.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Drill pocket holes in one end of each of these pieces. Attach to the seat with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The front frame piece should be located ¼” back from the front of the seat – see the drawing.
Cut the pieces for the upper back frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the pieces to the legs and frame pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws locating the pocket holes down toward the seat.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the slats at the spacing shown. Attach to the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer sides. Drill pocket holes in one long end as shown and attach to the seat at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The piece at the outer edge of the seat should be located ½” from the edge of the seat. Both pieces will be located 1-1/2” from the front edge of the seat and ¼” from the back.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer apron. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure to the drawer sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾” and the sides will overlap by ½”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and apron.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 10
Cut the piece for the drawer front. Drill the holes for the handle or knob location. Position the drawer front so that there is at least a 1/8” gap between the piece and the seat, then drill temporary screws through the holes for the handle. Open the drawer and secure the front to the drawer box from the inside. Remove the temporary screws from the holes in the front, and finish drilling for the handle or knob.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This table makes me want to throw out my existing table and start again from scratch! Absolutely gorgeous and easy to build!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 8 – 2×4 at 8’
- 7 – 2×6 at 6’
- Scrap of 2×3
- Scrap 1” dowel
- 4 – 2×4 at 43-13/16” – Legs
- 8 – 2×4 at 20-1/8” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 36-1/2” – Frame
- 2 – 2×4 at 64” – Frame
- 1 – 2×4 at 58” – Stretcher
- 2 – 2×4 at 33-1/2” – Supports
- 7 – 2×6 at 63” – Table Top
- 2 – 2×4 at 38-1/2” – Table Top
- 2 – 2×3 at 2” – Decorative Pin
- 2 – 1” dowel at 6” – Decorative Pin
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the straight edges of the shorter pieces. Assemble in an “X” as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. There will be four assemblies. Using glue and 2-1/2” countersunk screws, secure two Xs together back to back (pocket holes on the inside) to form two table legs.
Cut the pieces for the aprons and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer apron pieces as well as the stretcher. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each of the longer pieces, as well as the center of each shorter piece, to attach the table top. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach the legs to the frame using glue and 3” countersunk screws from the outside. The top of the legs should be flush with the top of the frame.
Attach the stretcher to the center of the cross-sections of the Xs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Secure to the frame as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the table top. Drill pocket holes in the 2×6 pieces as shown. Assemble the 2×6 pieces together first using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the 2×4 ends using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
The top will overlap the frame by 1” on each side, and 1-1/2” at each shorter end. Use 2” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the frame into the table top.
Cut the pieces for the decorative pin at the X. Drill pocket holes in the bottom of the 2×3 piece, then bore a 1” hole close to the same edge for the dowel pin. Attach to X with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Home
It’s been a while since I have given you an update on life from the baby train, so I thought I would share with you some of the recent purchases I have made for the nursery! At my last doctor’s appointment (4 months / 16 weeks) the doctor was willing to wager this karate kid was a boy. He gave it an 85% chance, but since prawn baby the sequel was extremely squirmy that day, and standing on his or her head, it was awfully difficult to see much of anything other than a ‘super hero like’, faster than a speeding bullet blur. So as usual we aren’t entirely sure yet whether it’s a guy or gal, which makes planning a tad difficult, to say the least.
Of course I gave it the old college try and still managed to do a bit of power shopping, and simply chose items I knew I wanted, regardless! Everything else will have to wait a tad I suppose.
I found a crib in a nice bright white, that was extremely budget friendly, from IKEA. I didn’t want to go crazy on this item since in the grand scheme of things I know I will very likely build the baby a toddler bed so purchasing a convertible lifetime crib like we did with my Monster Mash seemed pointless. Besides my attention span on home decor is about as short as can be, so whatever I think I love now, I will detest in less than 2 years… for sure.
I chose the expedit shelves for placing baby’s clothes and blankets. I will use it like an open shelved dresser of sorts. I wanted simple and clean and everything where I can see it. This certainly fits the bill.
The mobile… need I say more. I saw this fabulous little thing in the sneak peak of Joy Cho’s nursery on Design Sponge and absolutely knew it was just the thing for baby.
I will be back tomorrow with an actual sneak peak of how the nursery is coming along and a project or two I even managed to tackle in there!
Plans
I’m really excited to post this project because I was excited to find it browsing through my latest PotteryBarn catalog! Absolutely a stunner, to be sure!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 4 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 sheet of ½” plywood
- 2 sheets of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- 5 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’
- 1 – 1×8 at 4’
- 2 – 8’ casing
- 2 – 8’ baseboard
Materials
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Sliding Door Hardware – Rockler part no. 38905
- Edge banding for plywood, if desired
- Countersink bit for drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×3 at 19” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×6 at 19” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×8 at 19” (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) – Side Frame
- 2 – 1×3 at 65-1/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 19” x 24-7/8” – Side Frame Panels
- 2 – ½” plywood at 19” x 26-3/8” – Side Frame Panels
- 2 – 1×2 at 22-1/2” – Bottom Shelf Support
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 91-1/2” – Bottom
- 2 – 1×4 at 91-1/2” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) – Bottom Supports
- 3 – 1×4 at 22-1/2” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) – Bottom Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 61-1/4” – Dividers
- 18 – 1×2 at 23-1/4” – Side & Center Shelf Supports
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 23-1/2” – Side Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/4” x 23-1/4” – Lower Dividers
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 43” – Center Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 23-1/4” – Upper Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/4” x 95” – Top
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 33” x 93” – Back
- 2 – Casing & Baseboard Trim at 95” – Upper & Lower Trim
- 2 – Casing Trim at 25-1/4” – Upper Trim
- 2 – Baseboard Trim at 25” –Lower Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the side panels as shown. Insert into the frames and secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom. Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately ¾” from the front edge. Secure the bottom to the side panels as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the shelf into the supports.
Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in one shorter end only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the side shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelves into the supports.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the center shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the piece for the lower divider. Drill pocket holes in one long edge only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the divider ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the piece for the lower shelf. Secure to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelf into the supports as well as into the divider.
Step 7
Attach the next divider and shelf in the same manner as Step 6. Also attach the upper shelf to the shelf supports.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the upper divider and attach in the same manner as the other dividers.
Step 9
Cut the piece for the top. Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately 1-1/4” from the front edge. The top willoverlap by 1-1/4″ in the front and 3/4″ on the sides. Attach with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top into the dividers and sides.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The measurements for the pieces can be adjusted so that the seam falls behind a shelf.
Step 11
Cut the pieces for the doors. Assemble in the same manner as the side frames. Attach the door sliding hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 12
Cut the pieces for the casing and baseboard trim. Attach the sides first, then the front. Place the upper trim as close to the front edge as possible to allow for the doors to slide.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
I know you guys are going to adore this plan!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 3 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- ¾” plywood at 20” x 22”
- ¼” plywood at 22” x 25-1/2”
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 29” – Back Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 18” – Back Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 14-1/2” – Front Legs
- 5 – 2×2 at 19” – Stretchers
- 2 – 2×2 at 17” – Stretchers
- 2 – 1×3 at 19” – Front & Back Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 17” – Side Aprons
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 22” – Seat
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 22” x 25-1/2” – Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the back legs. Cut an 8 deg. angle in the bottom of the longer piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the angled end. Attach to the shorter piece as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown, with the pocket holes facing down, using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and the bottom stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the seat. Cut 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notches in the corners of one 22” end to allow for the back legs. Attach to the chair with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat into the legs and aprons.
Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the upper back legs with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the back piece into the upper back legs.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
We have had the most phenomenal week of outdoor furniture plans to kick off this Memorial Day Weekend, and why not let it roll? We jump back to one of our most favorite collections here at TDC, the Chesapeake Collection with an amazing daybed! Squeal….
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 16 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 2×6 at 6’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Countersink bit for drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×6 at 31” – Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 38” – Side Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 77-1/2” – Side Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 77-1/2” (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) – Supports
- 2 – 1×3 at 80” (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) – Supports
- 8 – 1×3 at 38” – Side Slats
- 13 – 1×3 at 39-1/2” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs according to the diagram. A circular saw may be the easiest way to do it but a jigsaw will be needed to cut out the straight section on the back of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. The longer aprons will be flush with the face of the legs while the shorter aprons will be set 1-1/4” back from the inside edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer boards. Secure to the frame at the spacing indicated ¾” down from the top of the aprons (the bottom will be flush with the apron) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shorter pieces will be attached to the longer side aprons using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. They will also be located ¾” down from the top of the apron with the bottoms flush.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. The top slat will be located ½” down from the top of the leg and ¼” from the inside edge. Attach the side slats following the inside angle with 1” spacing in between using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. They will be attached to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. The end slats will be located 1-1/2” from the legs while the remaining slats will be spaced 3-1/2” apart.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
