I built the Rustic Chair out of 1×6 and 2×4 lumber, each ripped in half! The total cost to build it was less than $25! I need help though… I can't decide what color to paint it! Any ideas?
That's right folks… we are going to be covering plans for the Chesapeake Sectional Sofa! Can I get a yahoo? Now go…build…make momma proud, and be sure to share pictures with us along the way! We LOVE a good Builders Showcase post!
$50-$75
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the piece for the back leg. Rip the 4×4 on a table saw to 2-1/2” x 2-1/2. The easiest way to cut the angle in the piece would be to draw the lines on the lumber. Brace it and clamp it down so it can rest on the corner edge and carefully cut the line with a jigsaw. Then, with 60 grit sandpaper, sand the angle until it is smooth.
Cut the pieces for the side legs. Rip them on a table saw to 2-1/2” x 2-1/2. Draw the angle on each board and cut with a jigsaw. Sand the angle.
Cut the pieces for the aprons and the front leg. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end on the aprons. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. Attach to the aprons at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the shorter pieces to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. (Countersunk screws can also be used.)
Cut the pieces for the back slats. Drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the legs flush with the angle using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. There will be a 1” space between each board.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Attach the 1×2 slats using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the slats into the center supports. Use a few brad nails through the front of the aprons into the side of the slats.
Set the first wider slat ½” from the 1×2 slat. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the slat into all supports. The next slat (and all remaining slats) will be spaced ¾” apart.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
As you can see in the pre-stain photo, I used 2-2x4s instead of a 4×4 for each leg and then made a gap in the outer leg to allow the side rail to rest on top of the 2×4. I had to alter the dimensions somewhat but I felt this would greatly improve the strength of the side rail connection.
A stunning piece to add to our Chesapeake Collection, this outdoor bar is sure to be the talk of your next backyard party!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
$75-$100
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×3 frame boards as well as the slats. Assemble as shown with the 2” slat for the panel in the center using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the panels to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as the slats. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Drill pocket holes at each end. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top supports. Drill pocket holes in each end and assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches at each corner to allow for the legs. Drill pocket holes as shown and assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the door panels. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the door frame. The measurement of the longest piece will depend on the height of the casters, although the casters should not be any taller than 2” – the overall length should be 41-1/4″. Drill pocket holes in each of the 16” pieces and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the door panels to the frames with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the door panel into the frame. There will be a right door and a left door.
Attach the shelf pieces to the inside of the doors at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the pieces.
Attach the doors to the cabinet with hinges.
Cut the pieces for the top. The longer piece will be attached to the top supports with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports. The smaller pieces will be attached to the longer piece with hinges and will fold over, then rest on the taller door frame pieces when the doors are open.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Since I used “clear select” cabinet grade material the cost was pretty high, considering. I have about $200.00 in lumber, stain, and paint. Excludes, pocket screws, nails, glue, hinges, pulls, and misc. supplies.
I did this over a Sat. & Sun. Probably have 12 to 14 hours in it including stain & paint.
The stain is Minwax Red Chestnut with a light pastel pink for trim. Used a 9″ stainless steel dog dish for sink from a dollar store and a real 4″ center set, cheap lavatory faucet from a big box supply ($11.99). I also installed a battery operated fluorescent 6″ light for under counter lighting above sink ($9.00). I know I have way to much money in it but it's for my grand-daughter, I'm here to spoil her. Lol.
The perfect outdoor bistro barstool! Works beautifully with the bistro table we posted yesterday!
$25-$50
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the back legs according to the drawing.
Cut the pieces for the front legs and the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Attach to the legs as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Cut the bevel in one end as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom of the stretcher. Secure to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws with the pocket holes facing down.
Cut the pieces for the back slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with the front faces flush with the front face of the legs.
Cut the piece for the center support. Attach to the center of the front and back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The support will be positioned ¾” down from the top of the seat to allow for the seat slats.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports. Attach to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Locate the supports ¾” down from the top of the seat to allow for the slats.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. In one piece only, cut ¾” x ¾” notches in one long edge only to allow for the legs. Attach the slats to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the slats into the supports. There will be ½” spacing between each slat.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
I’m excited to try and finish out the Chesapeake Collection of outdoor furniture! It’s been hands down one of our most popular, and with good reason… it’s fabulous! A little for projects that might make Father’s Day weekend and tad more enjoyable… just sayin’!
$50-$75
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs.
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Also drill one pocket hole in the center of each apron to attach the top. Attach to the legs with the outside face flush with the outside faces of the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the lower braces. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the legs as shown (12” from the bottom of the leg) using glue and 2” pocket hole screws with the pocket holes facing down.
Cut the piece for the table top. Draw a 38” diameter circle on the plywood and cut out with a jigsaw. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood.
Mark the center and draw an 18-3/8” x 18-3/8” square in the center of the table. Cut out with a jigsaw.
Cut the slats for the top. The first and last slats will be positioned approximately 1/16” from the edge of the square opening. The rest of the slats will be spaced 1/8” apart.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
I am excited to announce that I have partnered with Apartment Guide to serve as an Official Apartment Guide Decor Blogger! As an official blogger, I will be sharing articles and ideas for exploring your space, city and style.
Today's topic is all about my collaboration with Apartment Guide on Pinterest and some amazing Decor Ideas for Under $100! I know how you all love Pinterest, a good DIY Round Up, and some budget friendly finds… And so, I shall indulge you!
I have included some fabulous ideas on this pinterest board, for those of you who might be working with small spaces, renting, or have the design attention span of a 2 year old (me, me, and me). Most of the ideas found here aren't permanent and can be accomplished on a small budget (love that).
Let's get started with some inspiration, shall we?
From fish scale pendant lamps to stenciled book covers, I think many of us forget to focus on the every day items like lighting and books. Rather than ignore them, dress them up to the nines and adore them!
Budget friendly wall decor comes in many shapes, sizes, and styles which is truly important if you want to give your space a custom feel without breaking the bank. Oversized personalized prints in black and white or color are easy to create with your very own camera, and most print shops will print poster sized prints for a few dollars! Go crazy and plaster a wall with images that inspire you. Perhaps you love chalkboard paint as much as I do? Coat a few artist canvases with a healthy dose of that glorious black and hang them as your own works of art like Picasso.
For more tips on Frugal Home Decor: Get Creative with Frugal Decor Ideas
I love a good IKEA hack as much as the next guy or gal, and these two examples truly knock that concept out of the park! For pennies on the dollar, get yourself a truly fabulous storage piece that looks expensive and uber-stylish!
Do you love a big gorgeous canopy bed, but perhaps you don't have the space or the funds to have yourself a traditional version? Why not make yourself one that takes up less space, costs far less, and yet still retains that glamorous look… Yes please!
For more decor info: 8 Home Decor Mistakes to Avoid
Add a little spice to your life and spruce up your accessories! Why let blah and hum drum into your space? Give those traditionally overlooked simple pieces a little something extra with paint!
For more fabulous accessorizing: Create a Window Box for Your Apartment
DIY window treatments? Definitely! This is an item that might typically cost a pretty penny. Instead, make your own and love the look even more than you might otherwise.
Follow Apartment Guide on Pinterest for more budget friendly and inspiring ideas, and keep your eye on the Decor Ideas under $100 board and I will continue to add to it over time. For now, there are still dozens of ideas that I haven't mentioned here, so go and browse till your heart's content! Yahoo…
For more Tips & Tricks visit Apartment Guide:
Disclosure Language: Apartment Guide and owner Consumer Source, Inc. have partnered with bloggers like me as Official Apartment Guide Bloggers. As part of this program, I have received compensation. They have not told me what to purchase or what to say about the products used, and believe that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. Consumer Source’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.
A fabulous project from our request list and one that might very well serve a number of purposes, whether you build it for storage or display, this guy will do it all!
$75-$100
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at one long edge on each board.
Cut the piece for the bottom shelf. Attach the legs to the shelf at the spacing indicated using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end to attach to the shelves. Attach the first four dividers at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the first shelf and attach to the dividers as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the next three dividers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the first divider at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the second shelf and attach as shown, using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the next four dividers and third shelf. Repeat the process as for the first shelf in Step 2.
Cut the pieces for the remaining three dividers and the top, and attach as in Step 3.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
We continue with our newest bedroom collection, the Blake Collection.. yahoo. Fabulously stylish and a relatively easy build, this piece is sure to solve many of your work related storage dilemmas!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$100-$150
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Starting with the desk, cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the bevel in the bottom of the leg as shown.
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the side frame pieces should be flush with the outer face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panel should be flush with the outer face of the frame.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer divider. Drill pocket holes as shown. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches in the bottom divider to allow for the legs. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Secure to the desk back and right side frame as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Attach to the side frames as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the desk with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top and into the side frames, back, and divider.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Note that the drawer on the left will be wider than the drawers on the right. Attach the draweer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
For the drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
For the hutch – cut the pieces for the back and the dividers. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the back as well as in one end of the shorter dividers. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the hutch shelves. Drill pocket holes in the sides as well as one long edge of each shelf. Attach to the back and dividers at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the hutch to the desk top with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the hutch with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
For the drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Well it’s confirmed… We are having a boy! Between the animals and the people who reside under this roof, I am now outnumbered 5 to 1 on the male scale. That’s right, I’m the only female here, on a daily basis… eek! I guess I never have to worry much about who gets to pick the decor, and you know, for a gal like me that is rather important. Small victories people, small victories…
In honor of this fabulous news, I thought I would share a boyish nursery mood board, including my current picks for my very own boyish nursery, and a few I hope to work into the space over the next 4 months!
A fabulous piece for your teen, or anyone for that matter! Upholstery tutorial can be found here.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$25-$50
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the back legs. In the upper back pieces, cut a 12 degree angle and one end only. This edge will attach to the lower back piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the angled ends of the upper back piece so the pocket holes face the inside of the frame – there will be a left and a right piece. Secure the pieces as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the piece and secure using glue and 1-1/2” pocket holes.
Cut the piece for the center back support. Cut a 12 degree angle in the bottom of the back support. Drill pocket holes in each end of this piece so they face toward the front of the chair. Secure with glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.
Cut the piece for the back apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece and secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the aprons should be flush with the top of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the sides and seat supports. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure to the leg assemblies as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the seat. Attach to the chair frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat into the sides, aprons, and supports.
Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the back of the chair frame with the top flush with the top of the upper back frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the legs, upper back, and center support.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
