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Plans
I think it’s high time we had a corner unit bookshelf, no? These easy to build furniture plans are just the thing…
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 3’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 3’
- One sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 5 – 2×2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 11” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 11” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 21-1/4” – Side Panels
- 4 – 1×2 at 26” – Back Supports
- 2 – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Front Supports
- 2 – 1×2 at 14-1/4” – Front Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 27-1/2” x 27-1/2” – Shelves
- 2 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 25” x 27-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 29-3/4” x 29-3/4” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back side of the side pieces should be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the leg frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back aprons and the back leg. Drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons and attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the aprons should be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the front aprons. Note that one side of the aprons is shorter than the other. This allows the shorter side to attach to the longer side and create the “L” shape. Drill pocket holes in both ends of the shorter pieces and one end only of the longer pieces. Attach as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws where the aprons attach to the legs. 1-1/4” pocket hole screws will be used where the aprons attach to each other.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the side panels with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower shelf can be secured to the lower aprons with 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the shelf into the aprons.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the back. Secure to the back of the bookshelf and upper shelf with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. Attach the top to the shelf with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the legs and aprons. The top will overlap by ½” on the sides and front.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Nothing says outdoor fun like an adorable children's sized table and benches! The fact that they coordinate with the other pieces in our Chesapeake Collection is just icing on the cake! The Materials are for one table and two benches and this easy DIY furniture project is sure to make your next outdoor event that much more fabulous!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- 14 – 1×3 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 21-1/4” – Table Legs
- 6 – 1×3 at 23-1/2” – Table Side Aprons & Supports
- 2 – 1×3 at 40” – Table Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 27-1/2” – Table Top Frame
- 2 – 1×3 at 39” – Table Top Frame
- 3 – 1×3 at 22-1/2” – Table Top Dividers
- 32 – 1×3 at 7-7/8” – Table Top Slats
- 8 – 2×2 at 13-1/4” – Bench Legs
- 4 – 1×3 at 8” – Bench Sides
- 6 – 1×3 at 34” – Bench Aprons & Supports
- 4 – 1×3 at 12” – Seat Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 33” – Seat Frames
- 22 – 1×3 at 7” – Seat Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Starting with the table, cut the pieces for the legs and the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Attach to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the aprons should be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the longer aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the table top. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble the frame pieces first using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the slats last at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the top to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the aprons, legs, and supports.
Step 5
To build the benches:
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Attach to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the aprons should be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the longer aprons and the support, and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the aprons to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach the support to the side aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the seat top. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble the frame pieces first using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the slats last at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the seat into the aprons, legs, and support.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
This bench turned out beautifully.
The Kreg Jig does tear a little at the wood, so it is a good idea to cut, drill and then sand and stain. The legs are kind of hard to “create” with a jigsaw, so once you make one, write down the measurements! (I did not, so now I have to go through that all over again when I make my next piece!) I had to draw and redraw them out on the wood first to make sure they where the same “general” shape. Also, sanding them together at the same time is a good idea, so the shapes can be as close to the same as possible. Also, I had to glue the seat slats in place on one day and come back a day later to drill from beneath for permanent attachment.
Plans
For the little ones in your lives that want to garden and soak in the great outdoors! This easy to build kids potting bench is sure to supply hours on end of fun and perhaps even productivity in the garden!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 6’
- 1 – 1×8 at 3’
- Half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 21-1/2” – Legs
- 6 – 1×2 at 15” – Shelf Aprons, Shelf & Bench Frames
- 2 – 1×4 at 15” – Bench Aprons
- 7 – 1×2 at 25” – Shelf Aprons & Frame, Bench & Shelf Supports
- 2 – 1×4 at 25” – Bench Aprons
- 2 – 1×2 at 28” – Bench Frame
- 18-1×3 at 15” – Shelf & Bench Slats
- 2 – 1×6 at 18-1/4” – Hutch Sides
- 1 – 1×6 at 25-1/2” – Hutch Shelf
- 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 28” – Hutch Top
- 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 19” x 27” – Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces. Attach the shorter aprons to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the aprons should be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Attach the longer aprons as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the shelf support. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the shelf aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelf frame and slats. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the shelf to the shelf aprons using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the frame and slats into the aprons and support.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the bench supports. Cut the piece for the shelf support. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the shelf aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the supports should be flush with the top of the aprons.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the bench frame and slats. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the top to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the frame and slats into the aprons and supports.
Cut the pieces for the hutch sides. Cut the arcs as shown with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the ends of each piece and attach to the bench top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The hutch sides should be located ½” in from each side of the top as well as ¼” from the back edge.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the hutch shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the hutch top. The top will overlap the front and sides by ½”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides into the top.
Step 9
Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
The X-Tower I built my mom for Mother's Day… My dad painted it!
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Studio
This post and contest sponsored by HouseLogic and the National Association of Realtors, all opinions are 100% my own.
Hey there homeowners! Have you entered the HouseLogic Boost Your Roost contest? You know the one where you could turn your home improvement dreams into reality with a $20,000 renovation!
Whether it’s converting a bedroom into a home office, or giving your bathroom the facelift it deserves, we want to hear about your renovation idea and how it will allow you, your family and your friends to get that much more enjoyment out of your home.
SUBMISSION DETAILS
Homeowner submissions must be sent via email and should include:
- • Name, email, phone number, and home location
- • At least one (1) but no more than five (5) photos of the area to be renovated
- • A written description of the proposed renovation (300 words max)
- • Submission may also include a drawing or video of the proposed renovation
Send me an email to rayanturner [at] gmail [dot] com with a description of a room or area of your home that you would renovate within a $20,000 budget. Remember to include why is the home improvement is so important to you, and explain how it will raise the quality of the time you spend in your home with family and friends. The description should be 300 words or less and include at least one photo (5 photos max). And if you have drawings or videos, send those too! IDEA STARTERS
- Built-in storage
- Landry room re-do
- Vault your ceiling
- Add a shed or backyard office.
- Re-do a driveway
- Add bump-out bay window with seat storage
- Midrange bathroom remodel
- Minor kitchen remodel
- Deck addition
- Master suite remodel
- Entry way redo & mudroom
- Basement finish remodel
I’ll pick the best submission, which will then be one of six finalists (5 from the other 5 participating bloggers) to be voted on by the public to see who will win the $20,000 renovation. And remember, the last day to submit your idea is July 16th, so don’t wait. Enter today! Get more details at houselogic.com/boostyourroost
Plans
Free and Easy DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Blake Nightstand! We covered some of the other pieces in the Blake Collection earlier (to view those visit the Plan Index page and sort for the Blake Collection) and now the nightstand, which would also be fabulous as an end table!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- Scrap of ¼” lauan, plywood, or hardboard at 12” x 16-1/2”
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- One set of 12” drawer slides
- One handle or knob
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 22-1/2” – Legs
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 24” – Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 25-1/2” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 13-3/4” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 19” – Drawer Front
- 2 – 1×6 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×6 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in each of the legs as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/4” material and drill one pocket hole at the top of each leg on the inside face only.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notches in each corner for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material. Drill pocket holes as shown and secure the shelf to the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the top and the drawer. Drill pocket holes in the drawer pieces as shown and attach to each other, then to the top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the bottom of the drawer sides according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Attach the top and drawer assembly to the legs with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer slide hardware.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the drawer front and pre-drill the holes for the handles. Line up the front at the opening and temporarily secure to the drawer box with screws through the holes for the handles. Open the drawer and attach the front with countersunk screws from the inside.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free and Easy DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Belden End of Bed Dresser! The Perfect storage piece for all of those clothes or toys or….other stuff kiddos accumulate!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – ¼” x 2’ x 4’ beadboard panels
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Full sheet of ½” plywood
- Half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- 1 – ¼” x 1-1/4” trim at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1/2” brad nails
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 4 – drawer pulls
- 2 sets of 12” drawer slides
- Edge banding for the plywood
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 22-1/4” – Legs
- 6 – 1×2 at 12-1/2” – Side Stretchers & Slide Supports
- 2 – ¾” Beadboard Assemblies at 12-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×2 at 37-1/2” – Lower Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 37-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” Beadboard assembly at 2-1/2” x 37” – Lower Front
- 2 – ¾” Beadboard assemblies at 3” x 37” – Center & Upper Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 41-1/2” – Top
- 2 – ½” plywood at 6-1/2” x 38” – Drawer Fronts
- 4 – ¼” x 1-1/4” at 38” – Drawer Front Trim
- 4 – ¼” x 1-1/4” at 4” – Drawer Front Trim
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 36-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 2 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 12” x 36-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the ½” plywood into four 2’ x 4’ pieces. Create the beadboard assemblies by gluing the ¼” beadboard panel to a 2’ x 4’ piece of ½” plywood. Clamp until dry and add a few ½” brad nails if necessary. Be sparing with the nails as the assembly will have to be cut with a table saw or circular saw for the side panels and front panels.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the lower stretcher piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes should face down.
Cut the beadboard panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Step 3
Attach the slide supports as shown between the legs using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the pieces for the longer lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig back to ¾” material and attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Secure to the lower stretcher with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face should be flush with the back face of the legs.
Step 5
Cut the beadboard pieces for the front. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face should be flush with the front face of the legs.
Cut the piece for the top. Apply edge banding to the plywood if desired and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, back, and front.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the bottom. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Apply edge banding if desired.
Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach to the front with glue and ½” brad nails. Drill the holes for the handles. Drive screws through the holes for the handles into the drawer boxes to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod District Storage Bench with Bin. These benches are stackable and work in conjunction with these storage benches here, so mix and match until your heart’s content!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 2’
- 1 – 1×4 at 2’
- Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for edges of plywood
- 2 – Angle brackets (to secure 2 units together if stacked)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 10-1/2” – Bottom Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 38-1/4” – Bottom Frame
- 4 – 1×3 at 4” – Feet
- 4 – 1×4 at 4” – Feet
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Top & Bottom
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/2” – Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 24” – Bin Front
- 2 – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Stretchers
- 2 – 1×2 at 24” – Stretchers
- 1 – 1/4” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Apply edge banding to exposed plywood edges before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
If building the units to stack, do not build the feet. The only piece that will need feet is the base unit.
Cut the pieces for the feet. Cut the angle as shown. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. There will be two left feet and two right feet. Attach to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach to the frame and feet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the frame.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends of the dividers. Attach to the bottom at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the bin front. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers and stretchers.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 9
If stacking two units, attach the angle brackets to the frame of the bench that will go on the top, then secure to the top of the lower bench.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
My wife and I needed a medicine cabinet for our guest bathroom so I decided to make one. Thank you for the plans
Showcase
Here is the reef couch that accompanies the reef chair.
Estimated Cost
This cost roughly $55 to make
Length of Time
Took approximately 5 hours to make
Showcase
Sari my better half saw one like this in a shop but it was not for sale. So I said I will try and make one, but it ended up bigger because she wanted to put more and more dishes in it… It is a wall mounted cupboard for your best plates or whatever you want to put in it. The plate rack I bought from my local DIY shop. The one in the shop had one made from bamboo (it looked much better)
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Hammer
- Router
- Circular Saw (if you are cutting all the wood yourself)
- Keyhole saw
- 16mm wood drill or hole saw
Lumber
- 1.5 pieaces of 18mm thick wood
- 2.4meters X 1.2meters (wood yard cut them for me)
- 6mm ply wood for back and draw sides
Materials
- only used small tacks to hold the back on and the rest is dovetal joints and glue.
Cut List
18mm thick:
- Top (1) @ 907mm x 314mm
- Sides (2) @ 652mm (Dt,T) x 300mm
- Bottom (1) @ 855mm (Dt, T/B) x 290mm
- Draw Tops (1) @ 855mm (Dt, T/B) x 290mm
- Centre Shelf (1) @ 477mm (Dt, B/S) x 290mm
- Shelf Suports (2) @ 477mm (Dt, T/B) x 290mm
- Side Shelfs (2) @ 183mm (Dt, B/S) x 290mm
- Drawers
- Dividers (4) @ 127mm (Dt, T/B) x 290mm
- Drawers Front/back ( 8) @ 133mm x 133mm
6mm thick ply
- drawer sides 8 @ 266mm x 133mm
- drawer base 4 @ 262mm x 107mm
(Dt,T) Dovetail TOP + 6mm
(Dt, T/B) Dovetail TOP AND BOTTOM +12mm
(Dt, B/S) Dovetail Both Sides +12mm
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut all the pieces of wood to the right side and mark them for size and make sure they are square. Sand them so they are ready for staining.
Step 2
This is where you make up your mind whether you want to do dovetail joints or a simple slot joint.
if you doing a dovetail. Set up your router for doing a 6mm deep dovetail joint.
if you are doing a slotted joint. Set up your router for doing a 6mm deep slotted joint.
Check your setting on a scrap piece of wood.
Step 3
Mark out one piece at the time so you dont get lost.
I started with the all the dovetails in the centre first, (I found it easier this way).
Starting with the bottom and work your way up
- Mark a centre line
- Mark two lines 164.5mm either side of centre line for shelf supports
- Mark two lines 297.5mm either side of centre line for the other shelf supports
- Mark a line 10mm from the front edge this is you stop point for your dovetail or slot.
- Put 4 slot (Dovetail or plane)
Step 4
mark the draw top the same as the bottom so
- Mark a centre line
- Mark two lines 164.5mm either side of centre line for shelf supports
- Mark two lines 297.5mm either side of centre line for the other shelf supports
- Mark a line 10mm from the front edge this is you stop point for your dovetail or slot.
- Put 4 slot (Dovetail or plane)
now turn draw top over
- Mark a centre line
- Mark two lines 232.5mm either side or centre for shelf supports
Step 5
mark the top the same as the draw top as so
- Mark a centre line
- Mark two lines 232.5mm either side or centre for shelf supports
Now for the sides, as I hope you can see there is a radius on the top front edge. This is there just for cosmetics. but if you want it?
- mark a line 26mm from the top
- mark another line 117mm from first line
- draw a 95mm radius joining the two lines and cut the curve
- mark another line 39mm from the bottom this is the centre line of the the bottom piece.
- mark a line 172mm from the bottom this is centre of the draw top.
- mark a line 346mm from the bottom this is for the side shelf
- mark line 10mm from the front edge this is the stop point for the router
- now mark the other side on opposite side (left and right)
Step 7
now for the shelf supports . One is opposite from the other (one left hand one right)
RIGHT HAND.
- mark the curve in the shelf support, if you are putting them in your cupboard
- then on one side mark a line 171mm from the bottom this is for the side shelf
- on the other side mark a line 315mm from the bottom this is for the centre shelf
- mark line 10mm from the front edge this is the stop point for the router
- mark the other support remember that it is opposite.
Step 8
IF YOU ARE USING DOVETAIL JOINTS?
- set the router to do the edges so they slide smoothly into the slots you have made
- do a test piece to make sure you have it right then
- then do the dovetail on both ends of the bottom, draw top, centre shelf and the side shelfs. cut the front 10mm off so it fits flush with you cpboard
- now do the top off the sides and cut the front 10mm off so it fits flush with the front of your cupboard
- then the top and bottom of the shelf supports and the draw deviders
Step 9
Now for the 4 draws the front and the back are all the same
- using the router on both sides cut the corner 6mm in from the side and 6mm deep.
- mark a line 7mm from the bottom on the same side
- now put a 6mm wide slot 4mm deep down the centre of this line
- now you just glue the one side on the slide the draw bottom in place then glue the other side on and clamp the side in place till dry
- repeat for the other 3 draws
Finishing Instructions
now carefully make sure all the pieces fit together then carefully take it apart again and sand it smooth, then apply the finish you want.
now put it all together with pva glue.
last of all slide the back in and pin it in place with some small tacks.
I hope you have managed to follow this and if you have any question I will do my best to answer them. I am sorry for the lake of picture but I made it just before I joined this site.
I have full plans that I made on google SketchUp but don't know how to get them on here.
God bless Roy
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
