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Plans
The perfect starter piece for this fabulous collection we will be covering! These Free and easy DIY Furniture Plans for the Land of Nod Inspired Little Sloan Leaning Desk are sure to give your little people something fun to work and play on.
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- Quarter sheet of plywood
- 2 – 2×2 at 54-15/16” – Legs
- 3 – 1×2 at 27” – Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 27” – Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 27” – Shelf & Desk Top Border
- 2 – 1×2 at 9-1/4” – Shelf Border
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 27” – Desk Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 6-1/2” – Desk Top Border
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in the bottom of the legs as shown. The back of the legs, when set on the angle will rest approximately 7” from the wall when the bookcase is completed.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. The top stretcher piece will be perpendicular to the top of the legs. The remaining stretchers will follow the angle with the back of the stretchers 3/16” higher than the front. When set on the angle, the bottom of the stretcher will be flush with the legs. The top will stick out a little which is fine because they will not be visible under the shelf and desk top.
Attach the stretchers to the legs at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the shelf and border. Drill pocket holes in one end only of each of the side pieces and attach to the back border piece. Attach the entire assembly to the shelf using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom of the shelf into the border.
The shelf will be located approximately 6-15/16” from the front of the shelf to the top front of the corresponding stretcher. Secure the shelf to the stretcher and legs using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the pieces for the desk top and border. Drill pocket holes in one end only of each of the side pieces and attach to the back border piece. Attach the entire assembly to the desk top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom of the desk top into the border.
The desk top will be located approximately 13-1/8” from the front of the desk top to the top front of the corresponding stretcher. Secure the desk top to the stretcher and legs using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Attach the desk securely to the wall as well as the floor with the angle brackets.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Plans
Many of you have been asking and now I am finally answering your pleas for this loft bunk that would accommodate a full sized mattress. Easy to build, and extremely budget friendly, this Free Woodworking plan to build a full sized low loft bunk is just the project for those of you who need a bit more vertical storage space. I always say, ‘when in doubt…build up’!
Below are the plans for this bed in other sizes! Something for everyone!
- 2 – 4×4 at 10′ Fence Posts – untreated
- 1 – 2×6 at 10′
- 2 – 2×6 at 8′
- 3 – 2×4 at 10′
- 5 – 2×4 at 8′
- 1 – 2×4 at 6′
- 1 – 2×4 at 6′
- 5 – 1×4 at 10′
- 1 – 1×4 at 8′
- 1 – 1×4 at 6′
- 4 – 4×4 at 54″ (Legs)
- 2 – 2×6 at 76″ (Front and Back Rails)
- 2 – 2×6 at 58″ (Side Rails)
- 3 – 2×4 at 76″ (Upper Back Rails and Center Joist)
- 4 – 2×4 at 58″ (Upper Side Rails)
- 1 – 2×4 at 23 1/2″ (Front Guard Rail)
- 2 – 2×4 at 57″ (Front Upper Rails)
- 2 – 2×4 at 60″ (Ladder Rails)
- 4 – 2×4 at 14″ (Ladder Rungs)
- 2 – 1×4 at 76″ (Cleats)
- 11 – 1×4 at 55″ (Slats)
**I recommend finishing your boards and posts prior to assembling and simply touching up later. This will make for easier painting and will keep you from having to paint this wherever this piece will actually live (bedroom) since you will have to assemble it in the area it will be placed (at 45 or more inches wide this will not fit through a doorway after it’s assembled).
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the Legs to size and attach the Cleat to the Front and Back Rails using 2″ Screws.
To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the 4 pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2″ on either side of the Rails to allow for the Side Rails later, and clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 5/16″ Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side, creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts.
Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.
Attach the Side Rails to the Front and Back Rails then fasten the Upper Back Rails to the Back Legs. Once those are in place, fasten the Center Joist in roughly the center (duh). Use 3″ Screws
Attach the Front Vertical Guard Rail, use 2″ Screws. Then fasten the Front Upper Rails to it and the Front left or right Leg. Use 3″ Screws to attach to the Leg.
Attach the Upper Side Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3″ Screws.
Lay your Slats approximately 4″ apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4″ Screws.
Attach the remaining 2 upper Side Rails to the Back Rails and then either use a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) to create pocket holes and fasten to the front leg. If you don’t own a Kreg Jig you can also countersink and predrill at an angle from the outside edge into the leg. Use 3″ Screws
Create the Ladder. I give approximate dimensions for the height below, but the important aspect to focus on is the angle you will cut the top and bottom. The top of the ladder rails will be at a 75°angle and the bottom of the rails will be a 15°angle where the boards will rest on the ground.
Attach the rungs at approximately 8″ apart (this will depend on the age of your kiddo, the smaller and younger, the closer together these should be, you need to consider how easy it will be for them to climb down) and parallel to the ground. Use 3″ Screws to fasten the rungs to the rails and to fasten the rails to the Leg and Front Guard Rail. I suggest cutting away the point you will create at the very top, when you cut the 75°angle, for added safety. This will also give your ladder a bit of a hand grip up top.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
The perfect little companion to our Desk plans yesterday, these free and easy DIY furniture plans for the little sloan leaning bookcase are sure to add a bit of fabulous storage to any bite sized room!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- Half sheet of plywood
Materials
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- Angle brackets to secure to wall
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 54-15/16” – Legs
- 5 – 1×2 at 14-1/2” – Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 14-1/2” – Shelf
- 1 – 1×2 at 14-1/2” – Shelf Border
- 2 – 1×2 at 9-1/4” – Shelf Border
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7” x 10” – Upper Bin Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7” x 14-1/2” – Upper Bin Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 13” – Upper Bin Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 12-1/2” – Lower Bin Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 14-1/2” – Lower Bin Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 13” Lower Bin Bottom
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in the bottom of the legs as shown. The back of the legs, when set on the angle will rest approximately 7” from the wall when the bookcase is completed.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. The top stretcher piece will be perpendicular to the top of the legs. The remaining stretchers will follow the angle with the back of the stretchers 3/16” higher than the front. When set on the angle, the bottom of the stretcher will be flush with the legs. The top will stick out a little which is fine because they will not be visible under the shelf and bins.
Attach the stretchers to the legs at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelf and border. Drill pocket holes in one end only of each of the side pieces and attach to the back border piece. Attach the entire assembly to the shelf using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom of the shelf into the border.
The shelf will be located approximately 6-15/16” from the front of the shelf to the top front of the corresponding stretcher. Secure the shelf to the stretcher and legs using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the bins. Cut the notches for the front of the bins as shown using a jigsaw.
Step 5
Both bins are assembled in the same manner with the lower bin being taller and deeper.
Assemble the upper bin as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The upper bin will be located approximately 5-15/16” from the front of the bin to the top front of the corresponding stretcher. Secure the bin to the stretcher and legs using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Assemble the lower bin as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The upper bin will be located approximately 5-7/8” from the front of the bin to the top front of the corresponding stretcher. Secure the bin to the stretcher and legs using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 7
Attach the desk securely to the wall as well as the floor with the angle brackets.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Studio
Many of you who have been with us here at TDC for a while, know I reside in the fabulous town of Sacramento in northern California. But perhaps you don’t know much about what life is actually like here in good old Sactown… So I think we should do something about that, eh?
To give you a taste of the good life, I am teaming up with Trekaroo and Four in the City to give one lucky person a fun filled weekend courtesy of Sacramento’s finest family friendly businesses! This prize package is valued at over $700 and will give you and your family a fabulous getaway weekend to explore this amazing River City in fabulous family friendly style! Can I get a yahoo?
Details: One very lucky winner will win:
HOW TO ENTER:
This Family Friendly Weekend in Sacramento provides you many opportunities to enter to win! Click the login below (the Raffle Copter Giveaway) to start earning your entries!
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Rules and guidelines:
- All prizes expire August 10, 2013
- Blackout dates for the hotel are August 9, 10, 11, 2012 and December 31, 2012.
- US Residents only
Deadline to enter: Sunday, August 5, 2012 at 11:59PM PST
If you aren’t acquainted with Trekaroo or Four in the City, let me make the introductions…. Trekaroo is the most fabulous way to get the inside scoop on everyday travel with kids. With thousands of kid-friendly activities, hotels, and restaurants, Trekaroo unearths delightful discoveries near and far. Adel at Four in the City is mother to a clever and hilariously funny 5 year old boy and a smiley, happy baby girl. She’s an internet junkie and her blog covers everything she holds close to her heart. Adel is a talented photographer and has been shooting and editing her son’s life since he was born. Perhaps she might teach us a few of her photography tricks…
It’s truly an honor to be teaming with these folks and I’m glad to offer you all this opportunity! Now go… and enter…
Images via: Mariott International, here, and here
Design
There is something utterly whimsical about the idea of an indoor swing… It seems the perfect addition to any modern home whether the style be rustic or refined, this is a look I’m absolutely willing to embrace!
Plans
Need a place to store your odds and ends and crafty related stuff for the kiddos? Well this is the table for you (and them) with all sorts of storage capabilities and an extra long table top!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 2’
- 3- 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 2’
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×4 at 23-1/4” – Legs
- 3 – 1×2 at 22-1/4” – Side Aprons, Book Support
- 5 – 1×4 at 22-1/4” – Side Shelves
- 2 – 1×6 at 22-1/4” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 22-1/4” – Book Panel
- 2 – 1×2 at 52” – Long Aprons
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/2” x 52” – Shelf
- 1 – 1×4 (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) at 21-1/2” – Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 23-3/4” x 59” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Apply edge banding to exposed edges of plywood as they are cut.
Cut the pieces for the legs, the side shelves, side aprons, and the side book support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shelves, side aprons, and side book support.
For the cup storage shelf, bore four 2-1/2” holes, evenly spaced in the shelf before attaching to the legs.
Attach to the legs a shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the side panels and book panel. Drill pocket holes as shown, and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the long aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom face should be flush with the bottom edge of the long aprons.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the legs, divider, side panels, and side aprons using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
From accent furniture to washi tape frames, neon is everywhere! I know many of you already know of my slight obsession with neon from this post of yore, combining neon and neutral in a kiddo mood board. For those of you who aren’t in the know… I adore me a bit of neon! ADORE!
What do you think? Love it or leave it with the neon?
Plans
Free and Easy DIY Plans for the most fabulous and dainty desk!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- Half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 3 sets of 18” drawers slides
- 3 drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×6 at 19”(ripped to 5-1/4” wide) – Side Panels
- 1 – 1×6 at 41-1/2”(ripped to 5-1/4” wide) – Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 41-1/2” – Stretchers
- 2 – 1×2 at 3-3/4” – Dividers
- 3 – 1×2 at 19” – Slide Supports & Top Support
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-3/4” x 46” – Top
- 1 – ½” plywood at 9” x 44-1/2” – Hutch Back
- 2 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 10-1/2” – Hutch Sides
- 2 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 9-1/2” – Hutch Center
- 2 – ½” plywood at 9-1/2” x 11-1/2” – Hutch Top
- 6 – 1×3 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 4 – 1×3 at 9” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – 1×3 at 19” – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 9” x 18” – Smaller Drawer Bottom
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 19” – Larger Drawer Bottom
- 2 – 1×6 at 10-1/2” (ripped to 4-1/4” wide) – Smaller Drawer Fronts
- 1 – 1×6 at 20-1/2” (ripped to 4-1/4” wide) – Larger Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the side panel should be flush with the inside of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel should be flush with the inside of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the legs at the spacing indicated using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Attach to the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretcher into the divider.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the dividers and to the back with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top support. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the upper stretcher and the back with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by ¾”. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the stretchers, sides, and back.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the back of the hutch. Draw a decorative curve on the back and cut out with a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes along the bottom edge only. Secure to the top with glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the hutch cubby side. The overall piece will be cut at 6-1/4” x 10-1/2”. Cut a decorative curve in the piece with a jigsaw maintaining 4-3/4” at the front edge of the piece. Drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge. Secure to the back piece and the desk top with glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the hutch cubby center. Drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge. Secure to the back piece and the desk top with glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the hutch cubby top. The overall piece will be cut at 9-1/2” x 11-1/2”. Cut a curve in the piece maintaining 9-1/2” at the front part of the top as shown. Attach to the center with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the center piece. Secure to the sides and back with 1-1/4” brad nails through each piece into the top.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the bottoms. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The fronts will overlap the openings by ¼” on each side. Pre-drill the holes for the handles. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
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Lumber Used
I created my own using scraps of oak plywood leftover from my kitchen remodel. I assembled it with glue and brad nails.
Finishing Technique
Small projects like this allow me to try finishes I wouldn't normally use. I decided to try Minwax Water-Based Wood Sheen in Colonial Walnut. The color was beautiful but it dried way too fast for me to get a nice “wipe mark free” finish. The hinges were regular steel hinges that I primed with rusty metal primer and painted oil rubbed bronze to match the handles and the sash lock on the front. The only thing I can't decide on is what to stencil on the front… Any suggestions??
Plans
A fabulous and fun way to store stuff for your teen with full mirror included! Doesn’t get any better than that folks!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 5 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 8’ casing
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- Lazy Susan Hardware
- Cork to fit side frame w/adhesive
- Mirror to fit side frame w/adhesive
- Knobs or hooks for the back
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×3 at 18” – Lazy Susan Frame
- 2 – 1×3 at 19-1/2” – Lazy Susan Frame
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Top, Lazy Susan & Cabinet Bases
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 64-3/4” – Cabinet Sides
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/2″ x 64-3/4″ – Back
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 19-3/4” – Shelves
- 1 – 1×3 at 17-1/2” – Stretcher
- 4 – 1×3 at 15-1/2” – Side Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 64-3/4” – Side Frames
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Apply edge banding to each piece before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the lazy susan frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the lazy susan base and the cabinet base. Attach the lazy susan base to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The top will overlap the frame by ½” on all sides.
Attach the lazy susan hardware to the lazy susan base and the cabinet base according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in the shorter ends. Attach to the cabinet base locating the sides ¾” in from the sides of the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the sides and base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes on three sides only and attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the side frames. The frame pieces can be attached to each other using pocket hole screws, then glued and secured with brad nails to the side of the cabinet or attached to the base individually using glue and brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the top of the base into the top piece.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the casing one at a time with 45 deg. mitered edges. Attach to the cabinet and lazy susan frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 10
Attach knobs or hooks to the back. Add the cork and mirror to the side frames using the appropriate glue for each.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
These boxes are a fantastic way to use up scraps… Plywood, boards, etc. Easily customizable, they would be a fun addition to any décor whether painted or stained. Instead of solid pieces, the top and bottom could be pieced together with the Kreg jig for a “planked” look.
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig, optional
- Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
- Various scraps with the largest pieces measuring at least 12-1/2” x 20-1/2”
- Or
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws (if using the Kreg jig)
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 1 – latch for the front, optional
- 1 or 2 handles
- Hinges
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Lid Sides
- 2 – 2-1/2” x 22” – Lid Front & Back
- 2 – 5” x 12-1/2” – Box Sides
- 2 – 5” x 22” – Box Front & Back
- 2 – 12-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Top & Bottom
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut all of the pieces for the box. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails by securing the sides to the top or bottom, then secure the front and back pieces.
Step 2
Cut the trim pieces and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bottom trim pieces are offset so the boxes can be securely stacked.
Step 3
Attach the hardware to the box. The only hinges I could find were steel so I primed them with rusty metal primer (which helps the paint adhere better) then I spray painted them oil-rubbed bronze.
Stencil or freehand any name, words, etc. to the front.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
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Estimated Cost
Great post and plans for the chesapeake coffee table. I liked it so much, I just made one myself! Took me two hours and I only spent $26 on wood. I simply love this site!
