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Design / Home / Studio
Good design is more often than not, about balance and proportion, rather than the actual items you choose for your home. It’s no secret that I love an eclectix mix of pieces in my home, but let’s be honest, for the average person Mastering the Mix isn’t always second nature. For me, one hard and steadfast rule I stick to when creating a masterfully mixed collection of pieces, is to simply choose pieces in colors and patterns and styles that I love. They may not always appear to work together initially, but once you begin to place your faves throughout your home, you typically find your ‘eclectic’ mix has more in common than you originally thought!
I’m excited to share the most recent sale from One Kings Lane with you. Master the Mix is a series of flawlessly curated pieces to help you get that perfect ‘mixed and not so matched’ look throughout your home! It’s free to join and you can take advantage of the incredible saving for this spectacular sales event. Click here to get started now, the sale won’t last long…
Let’s chat a bit more about how you might achieve that mixed eclectic look in many areas of your home:
Click on the image above or the header below to view the sale
Master The Mix: Bedroom
Your bedroom and bathroom are your havens, the most private oases in your homes. Follow these simple tips and make yours stylish sanctuaries with plenty of (your) personality.
Play with Pattern & Palette: Combine solid modern neutrals like charcoal or navy with different patterns to achieve a sophisticated mix.
Juxtapose Styles: Mix finishes, colors, and styles for a curated effect that transcends trends—like an Asian garden stool with a classic linen headboard.
Harmonize with Color: When they share a similar hue, you can layer different textures and patterns—like summery prints and a nubby wool pillows—and still keep a unified tone.
Click on the image above or the header below to view the sale
Variations On A Theme: Dec Acc
The surfaces in your home are blank canvases for you to decorate with as little or as much as you please. Here’s how to master the mix:
Play with Scale: Pair larger objects with smaller ones to bring new depth and dimension to a flat surface like a coffee table or bookshelf.
Embrace Color: Pick a color scheme and go with it. Some combinations we love are pastels and metallics, high-contrast brights and neutrals, and classics like blue and white.
Get a Feel for Things: Variations in texture bring visual interest to a room. Outfit your space with ceramics, glassware, or antique books for plenty of tactile charm.
Click on the image above or the header below to view the sale
Master The Mix: Kids Room
A child’s rooms is all about breaking the rules and getting creative. Here’s how to make it (and keep it) fun, fresh and full of wonder.
Be Imaginative: Go with zigzags, polka dots, floral patterns or stripes. Take a cue from your kids and let creativity run wild from floor to ceiling.
Embrace the Mess: Kids means, but colorful baskets and storage benches and ottomans contain the clutter in flash—and in style.
Grownups Welcome: Sophisticated pieces have a place in a kid’s space. A plush modern chair makes a very cozy storytime venue.
Click on the image above or the header below to view the sale
Master The Mix: Rugs And Pillows
A mix of rugs, pillows, and throws brings warmth, color, and texture to a space. Follow these simple tips for blending pieces you love:
Go Graphic: Choose an accent with a strong, bold design. Defined shapes look great on neutrals or alongside smaller prints.
Don’t Fear Color: Against a neutral background, hits of one vivid color are not overpowering—they convey a tailored, rich look.
Build Up: A rug is a room’s foundation. Neutrals are always a safe option, but an unexpected color can functions as a vivid work of art for your floor.
Click on the header below to view the sale
Master The Mix: Furniture And Lighting
Sofas, beds, tables, chandeliers: These are the pieces that make a statement in a room. Varying the color, texture, and scale creates a layered, interesting look that’s all your own.
Mix, Don’t Match: Juxtapose a modern table with rustic chairs, a tailored sofa with a rococo lamp. Try straight lines with curves, hard textures with soft.
Simplify Your Palette: When mixing a number of diverse styles or patterns, stick to a tight color scheme. This gives a room a more unified look.
Make It Pop: One or two hits of unexpected color—say, a turquoise nightstand in a neutral bedroom—can give a room a jolt of energy.
Click on the image above or the header below to view the sale
Master The Mix: Table And Kitchen
From dinner parties to family meals, the kitchen should be a welcoming space with equal parts style and function.
Vary the View: Open shelving with white dinnerware and brightly colored glasses, or accents of different shapes and sizes, creates an interesting vignette.
Layer, Layer, Layer: Create versatile settings with unusual pairings. Delicate traditional china and modern glasses sets a chic high/low scene.
Raid the Pantry: Fruit or brightly colored packaging can double as decor. A bowl of fresh citrus or a jar filled with bright candies is as alluring as a still-life painting.
Disclosure: This post is sponsored by the fine folks at One Kings Lane!
About One Kings Lane:
One Kings Lane is an online marketplace for the home that brings members exceptional value on a spectacular collection of top-brand, vintage and designer items. One Kings Lane was the first in the home industry to introduce Flash Sales (in 2009), Tastemaker Tag Sales (in 2010) and Movie Set Sales and Estate Sales (in 2011) – all of which bring unique, exceptional items that are hand-selected and deliver tremendous value for their customers.
One Kings Lane was founded by long-time apparel industry executive, Susan Feldman and seasoned digital media executive Alison Pincus, and launched in March 2009. The idea of One Kings Lane came about because of a void that Susan and Alison recognized that needed to be filled: there was no single exciting, curated destination online where consumers could shop, find their favorite home and lifestyle brands, discover new ones and get inspired.
How One Kings Lane Works:
- Sales on One Kings Lane launch at 8am PT/11 am ET and typically last 72 hours. Quantities are limited – shop early so you won’t miss out! Each day, you will find a mix of:
- Daily Sales – Top-brand and beautifully merchandised assortments from top home decor and lifestyle brands. Shop categories that range from furniture and lighting to rugs, art, accessories, tabletop, bed and bath, travel, kids, pets, stationery, gifts, and much more.
- Tastemaker Tag Sales – These popular events bring members one-of-a-kind furniture, accessories, antiques and more, personally hand-picked by today’s leading design visionaries from their own collections—at well below estimated value.
- Vintage and Market Finds – The industry’s first curated marketplace brings One Kings Lane members an even broader selection of unique collectables and timeless pieces from the country’s top designers and antiques dealers. Vintage & Market Finds also allows members to shop by nine categories including: Art, Books, Decorative Accessories, Floor Coverings, Furniture, Lighting, Tabletop, Textiles and Wall Decor. New products are added daily and are sold on Vintage & Market Finds for five days, or until sold out.
All Images via One Kings Lane
Showcase
Plans
Free DIY Furniture plans to build a potterybarn inspired Lucy Console table. Free and easy and fabulously stylish!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- Full sheet of ¼” lauan, plywood, or hardboard
- 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/2” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- 2 sets – Partial wrap-around hinges (Click here)
- 2 – door handles or knobs
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 47-3/4” – Side Units
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 13” – Side Unit Shelves
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 43-1/2” – Shelves
- 7 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 15” – Lower Bin Dividers
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 15-1/2” – Upper Bin Dividers
- 4 – 1×3 at 12” – Bin Fronts
- 2 – 1×3 at 16-1/2” – Bin Fronts
- 2 – 1×3 at 20-5/8” – Bin Fronts
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2-1/4”) at 11-1/2” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 45-1/4” – Door Frames
- 1 – 1×3 at 72-1/2” – Upper Apron
- 1 – ¼” lauan, plywood, or hardboard at 47-3/4” x 72-1/2”
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 73-1/2” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 42-3/4” – Doors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Apply edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the side units. Two units will be constructed. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges of the shelves. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shelves and attach to the side units as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces as shown for the lower bin dividers. Drill pocket holes as shown – two pieces will have the pocket holes drilled on the opposite side. Attach to the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown. Attach the bin dividers at the side units using glue and countersunk 1-1/2” screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces as shown for the upper bin dividers. Drill pocket holes as shown – one piece will have the pocket holes drilled on the opposite side. Attach to the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown. Attach the bin dividers at the side units using glue and countersunk 1-1/2” screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the bin fronts. Drill pocket holes in each end. There will be three different sizes. Attach to the openings as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the door frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the lower piece and attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the side unit openings using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the frame into the sides and bottom shelf.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the upper apron. Attach to the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the side units and upper dividers.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 9
Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the front and sides by ½”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and dividers into the top.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Attach the hinges to the door, shim in place in the opening, then attach the hinges to the frame. Drill holes for the knobs and attach to the doors.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
A fabulous and stylish nightstand or end table option for you home! This easy to build Free DIY furniture plan for a Ballard Designs Inspired Louis XVI end table will save you hundreds…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 2’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1-1/4” screws
- Edge banding for plywood
- 3 drawer knobs or handles
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 25-3/4” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 10” – Side Panels
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 13-3/4” – Side Panels
- 4 – 2×2 at 14” – Back Panel, Front Apron, Lower Shelf Apron
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 14” – Back
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 14” – Shelves
- 2 – 1×2 at 14” – Shelf Aprons
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18-1/2” – Top
- 6 – 1×4 at 8-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 6 – 1×4 at 13-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 3 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 10” x 13-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, apply to the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs then cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side frame as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the side panels as shown. Attach the panels to the frame pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back of the panels will be flush with the back of the frame pieces. Attach the panel assemblies to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the panel as shown. Attach the back panel to the back frame pieces using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the apron. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the apron as shown. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelves and aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the lower apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the middle and upper aprons, as well as in the shelves. It will be easier to start with the upper shelf and work ypur way down when attaching the shelves.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the sides and front by ¾”. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side frames, back frame, and apron.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and pre-drill the holes for the handles or knobs. The drawer fronts will overlap the opening by ¼” on all sides. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Estimated Cost
Choosing to build it from cedar and redwood definitely spiked the overall cost. Probably close to $600-800 for everything. I'm guessing had I stuck to the original plans of using just fir 2×4's the overall cost would have been significantly less.
Length of Time
2 REALLY long weekends. 8 hours a day. Probably slower than most but I was really careful to measure multiple times and cut once.
Lumber Used
Initially went to Home Depot but their selection of cedar was pretty poor. So I went to our locally-owned Ace Hardware and their selection of cedar was excellent. 2x6x10' Redwood for table top, 4×4 Cedar for base, 2×4 Cedar for rest of frame
Finishing Technique
Teak oil for UV protection and weatherproofing. Ryobi 12″ Miter Saw (honestly I wouldn't want to build this again without this, a literal life saver and the finished product looks so much better). Irwin quick-grip slide clamps. These were essential. Kreg jig system. I'd say it's not imperative, but I sprang for the kit and the finished product looks great and is very strong. Elmer's Wood Glue. The obvious stuff like hammer, tape measure, pencil, sandpaper, drill
Plans
We covered plans for the table last week, and now for the matching bookshelves! Yahoo for Free DIY Furniture Plans for a Land of Nod Inspired Compartment Dept. Inspired Bookcase!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- Two full sheets of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 3 – ¾” square dowels
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×4 at 47-3/4” – Legs
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 48” – Shelves
- 8 – ¾” square dowels at 11-3/4” – Side Stops
- 6 – 1×2 at 11-3/4” – Side Stops
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12” – Upper Side Panels
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-5/8” x 11-3/4” – Middle Side Panels
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 21-3/8” – Lower Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 41” – Shelf
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12” – Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-5/8” x 11-3/4” – Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 41” x 45-3/4” – Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 41” – Aprons
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding should be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material. Drill pocket holes in the shelves where they will attach to the legs. Secure the legs to the shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the 1×2 side stops. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces and locate them on top of each shelf as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the remaining side stops from the square dowels. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the legs into the dowels.
Both sets of stops should be located with the outside face flush with the outside edge of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back side of the panels should be flush with the inside edge of the legs.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the shorter shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end at attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Attach to the top and bottom shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
The two areas of a home I most frequently hear complaints about are kitchens and bathrooms, hands down. Everyone wants a gourmet or spa like feel in their retreats, and it seems these are the areas people feel the most apprehensive about making dramatic changes to, outside of paint and accessories.
The idea of remodeling can be scary and intimidating, but can it be done? And on a budget? Well of course it can!
Planning and Budget
With a bit of planning and research, anyone can makeover their bathroom without breaking the bank as long as they are willing to put in a bit of DIY hard work! If you feel that your bathroom is in need of a boost, here are few ideas and tips for you to consider. It is important to figure out your needs and map out a tentative design plan of attach before you bring in a contractor (if this is needed). This will help you save a lot of hassle during the later stages of the remodeling process….trust me on this!
The existing design of the bathroom is something that should be considered before you remodel the current bathroom. You should make sure that the new design suits the needs of everyone in your family. Consider that the remodeling costs of a bathroom can be extremely high even if your bathroom is very small, so you should without a doubt set a budget for yourself before you begin.
Replace or Repair?
If it can be fixed rather than replaced it will save you quite a bit. In the DIY blogging world, we are masters of our domain and repairing and upcycling are something we excel at. Why not carry this mentality into your design project every chance you get? If you can update rather than purchase new hardware, while you refinish your existing cabinetry you may save yourself a considerable amount of money. Go vintage… give your space a bit of a lived in flair. Save yourself in cost while adding some truly unique features to your bath.
Nothing can be compared to the serene spa like experience a bathtub can provide, so if you can skimp in other areas in order to splurge here, you may truly feel the value of every dime to your dollar. A variety of bathtubs such as soft bathtubs, whirlpool bathtubs and hot bathtubs are available in the market. You might actually pass out from some of the amazing technologies found today.
In terms of practicality, single person bathtubs are always going to be easier to clean and maintain (not to mention use) than double person bathtubs. If your bathtub is a fiber glass tub, and it has a few cracks, it’s actually possible to repair it yourself. If the problem is beyond repair, then you can install a liner, but perhaps this is an area where you might choose to let a professional help you out.
Flooring and Lighting
You should use appropriate flooring for your bathroom, bottom line. This is an area I think requires a bit of thought and consideration. Don’t be fooled here, thought and consideration don’t necessarily translate to cost, it simply means that you should choose a flooring material that will handle the water and moisture well. It would be devastating to redo your bath only to have to repair again in the future where water has damaged something. Practicality is king here. Hardwood flooring in the bathroom is not likely to be your best choice simply because the materials do not stay wear well in a moist environment, however a vinyl wood-like flooring might be a fabulous compromise. Yes I said vinyl… it’s come a long way folks, and you might consider checking out your options.
Lighting in the bathroom can make or break the space. If you have a way to allow natural light into the space, so much the better, but if not, your lighting choices should attempt to mimic a light bight naturally lit environment as best as possible. A brighter bath can change your mood. If you can remodel in such a way that you can allow plenty of sunlight to come in, perhaps by adding a window, your investment will be well spent. Choose your lighting fixtures according to the size of the bathroom—there is such a thing as too bright! More typically though, lighting fixtures tend to be a bit undersized. Consider that sunlight and daylight are best suited for your bathing and dressing needs while subdued lighting can make you feel more relaxed, so pick a fixture appropriate to your needs and wants as a homeowner and person who will actually use this bathroom for it’s intended purpose.
Storage, Storage, Storage
When it comes to bathroom storage and organization, you should consider your needs once again and go for vertical storage or shelving where space is limited. Vertical storage spaces can actually be better than their alternatives, because they allow you more room to maneuver in a potentially small space, and they utilize what space you do have in a more clever manner. When in doubt, think up… this is always my motto.
Consider unconventional options. Why spend time, money and energy on replacing or adding traditional bathroom cabinetry, if this isn’t even your style. Go with something more furniture like that still accomplishes the same thing. If it’s not a standard structural piece, you run a better chance of being able to create it yourself, and this will add both style and savings to your bottom line.
Remodeling a bathroom is no easy task. Considering your goals, planning, and attempting to salvage as much of the space and it’s parts as possible is going to save you time and money in the long run. There are aspects of this job that should probably be left to the professionals (like the plumbing and electrical) but many of the remaining tasks can be done on your own and will save, save, save you quite a bit on cost!
Images via: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6
Plans
Free and Easy DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Sorrento Console, perfect as a media center, a console table, sideboard or storage piece!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Router with 3/8” rabbeting bit
- Hammer
- Chisel
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 6 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – Baseboard trim at 8’
- 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 – sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 4 – knobs for doors
- 4 sets of hinges
- Mirrors for doors
- Edge banding for plywood
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 72” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 34-1/4” – Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 16” – Bottom Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 72” – Trim Support
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 30” – Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 21” – Middle Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 24-3/4” – Outer Shelves
- 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 30-3/4” x 73-1/2” – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 21” – Front Stretcher
- 4 – 1×2 at 21-3/4” – Door Frames
- 2 – 1×2 at 27” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 30” – Door Frames
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 75” – Top
- 8 – 1×2 at 7-5/8” – Doors
- 8 – 1×2 at 27-1/2” – Doors
- 2 – Baseboard trim at 16-3/4”
- 1 – Baseboard trim at 74-1/2”
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding should be applied to exposed plywood edges before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom. Also drill pocket holes in the top of the side pieces. Attach to the sides as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Drill pocket holes in one long end and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the trim support. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom and sides into the support. Add a few brad nails through the support into the bottom supports.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the outer shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end. The shelves will be located ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the middle shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end. These shelves are flush with the outside edge of the dividers. Attach to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the front stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top. The top overlaps the front and sides by ¾”. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the top of the sides and dividers into the top piece.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides and dividers into the frames. Add a few nails through the frames into the shelves.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. They will have to be located so they do not interfere with the router when cutting the rabbets. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Using the router and a rabbeting bit, cut a 3/8” rabbet around the inside of the frame for the mirrors. Use a hammer and chisel to square the corners of the rabbet. Attach the mirrors using adhesive or a framing tab gun.
Step 10
Cut the pieces of baseboard. Secure the side pieces first using 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front.
Attach the doors with the hinges, and attach the knobs to the doors.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Studio
I’m super excited to announce that the finalist from our entries has been chosen! This was such a difficult contest for me to judge and I consider that a good thing. You guys blew my mind with an amazing 800+ entries! I personally read and scored each and every one of them and wanted so badly to choose them all! Some of you made me laugh, made me cry, convinced me that without this your home might wash away the next time it rains…. This was truly a difficult decision and I am honored that so many of you took the time to enter. I wish I could have chosen each and every one of you! As it stands I couldn’t even narrow down the entries into my top 4 without amazing difficulty. From the top contestants, one entry was chosen to move on to the next round and without further ado I present to you our finalist, ready for your votes…
Rory and Doug from Aurora, Illinois!
While everyone wasn’t able to win, we can sure help Rory and Doug make it all the way and keep that $20,000 in the family so to speak. Please head over to houselogic.com/boostyourroost and cast your vote for them! Voting will remain open until Aug 13, at which time the winner of the Boost Your Roost contest will be announced! Let’s show a little love to our friends and help them take the cake.
Below you can view their entry:
Ick! . . . behold . . . mold
On the shower door, on the carpeted floor
Nevermind the plastic wood door
The lighting is dated, and
The paint color is hated
The mirror over the toilet
Yep, totally spoils it
A bath reno is required
Because I am so tired
Of scrubbing the ugly away;
Keeping friends and family astray;
And starting each day in dismay.
A sparkling new bath
Would make me and my guy laugh.
In desperate need of a boost for this roost!
Come on, a carpeted stair
Is right next to that ‘chair’!
I’m not asking for much
Just a bath that’s clean to the touch.
DIY
Today's topic is all about giving you some inspiration on how you might use reclaimed wood in your homes and for your accessories. So before you throw out that old piece of furniture or fallen tree trunk in your yard, why not get creative and use a bit of the materials to make something fabulous!
Plans
These stackable storage benches are sublime, not to mention easy to build! Build 1, build 2, or interchange them with other pieces in the District Storage Collection like the storage bin bench!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 2’
- 1 – 1×4 at 2’
- Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for edges of plywood
- 2 – Angle brackets (to secure 2 units together if stacked)
- 4 – Hinges
- 2 – Drawer pulls or knobs
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 10-1/2” – Bottom Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 38-1/4” – Bottom Frame
- 4 – 1×3 at 4” – Feet
- 4 – 1×4 at 4” – Feet
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Top & Bottom
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/2” – Dividers
- 4 – 1×2 at 12” – Stretchers
- 2 – 1×2 at 12-3/4” – Stretchers
- 1 – 1/4” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 11-3/4” – Doors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Apply edge banding to exposed plywood edges before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
If building the units to stack, do not build the feet for each unit. The only piece that will need feet is the base unit.
Cut the pieces for the feet. Cut the angle as shown. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. There will be two left feet and two right feet. Attach to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach to the frame and feet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the frame.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends of the dividers. Attach to the bottom at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers and stretchers.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Pre-drill the holes for the handles or knobs. Shim the doors in place and attach the hinges.
Step 9
If stacking two units, attach the angle brackets to the frame of the bench that will go on the top, then secure to the top of the lower bench.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
