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Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Bouclier Side Table
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 4’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×4 at 6’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1-1/4” screws
- Edge banding for plywood
- 2 pair of 16” drawer slides
- 2 drawer knobs or handles
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 23-3/4” – Legs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 17-1/2” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 19” – Back
- 3 – 1×2 at 19” – Front Aprons
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/4” x 23-1/2” – Top
- 4 – 1×4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 1×4 at 18” – Drawer Boxes
- 2 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 16” x 18” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, apply to the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle as shown in each leg. The angles will face to the inside of the cabinet.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and cut the pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the side panels using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the back will be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap the legs by ¾”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side and back panels.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and pre-drill the holes for the handles or knobs. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Hendrix Large Desk
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – sheets ¾” plywood
- 2 – 2×6 at 6’
- 3 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 6’
- 3 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of lauan, plywood, or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1 – drawer pull
- 1 set of 20” drawer slides
- Wide edge banding for the top
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 26” x 85” – Top
- 4 – 2×6 at 31-1/2 – Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 23” – Side Aprons
- 1 – 2×4 at 64-1/8” – Upper Back Apron
- 1 – 2×4 at 72-5/16” – Lower Back Apron
- 4 – 1×4 at 23” – Top Supports
- 2 – 1×4 at 19” – Back Supports
- 2 – 2×4 at 34-1/2” – Diagonal Supports
- 1 – 1×4 at 45-1/8” – Front
- 1 – 1×4 at 18-3/4” – Drawer Front
- 2 – 1×3 at 18” – Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×3 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – ¼” lauan, plywood, or hardboard at 18” x 20” – Drawer Bottom
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the plywood for the top. Spread a layer of glue on the face of one piece with a brush and position the second piece on top. Wiggle the top piece around to create suction and clamp to dry. A few brad nails can be placed through one of the pieces into the other to secure the pieces together. Once the glue dries, apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood and trim away the excess.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at one edge of each leg. Do not forget there will be a right side set and a left side set so the pocket holes will need to face to the inside. Secure the legs to the top as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Drill pocket holes at each end and secure to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The face of the aprons will be parallel to the edge of the legs and will be located 2” in from the outside edge.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the back aprons. Cut the angles as shown and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the top supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the legs and top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back supports. Drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the supports will be flush with the inside face of the back aprons.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the diagonal supports. Attach to the side aprons using glue and 2” countersunk screws.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the front. Cut the angle as shown and drill pocket holes in this edge only. (If facing the front of the desk, this edge will be on the left and the pocket holes will be on the inside) Attach to the left leg using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the other end to the middle top support using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front into the support.
Step 9
Cut the piece for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware. For an easy tutorial on how to attach drawer slides, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 10
Cut the piece for the drawer front. Cut the angle as shown and drill the holes for the drawer pull. There will be a 1/8” gap on the sides and top of the drawer. Attach to the drawer box, then attach the drawer pull.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
From painted white wood floors to white laminate or tile, there is something light and airy about the mood a white floor creates in a room…. but can you handle the responsibility that most likely comes with the territory? I can say for certain that while I adore the look, I simply can’t hang with the upkeep. But trust me when I say I occasionally count the days till I will be kid free, just so that I might have white floors and white slip-covered sofas!
I’m excited to announce my partnership with BestLaminate as an official blogger, and today’s topic is all about the white flooring droolfest I am about to share with you! Sit back and buckle up folks, this article is about to get crazy!
All images are part of this fabulous pinterest board here. To browse more white floors or find original sources in all their glory, click here.
1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Hendrix Bookcase! I can’t tell you all how much I am loving this collection. I hope one of you builds this quickly, I can’t wait to see it.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 4 – 2×3 at 6’
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 2” Edge banding for plywood
- 4 – 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” angle brackets
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×3 at 70-1/2” – Legs
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 30” x 66-1/2” – Back
- 8 – 2×2 at 12” – Shelf Supports
- 4 – 2×2 at 30” – Shelf Supports
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 30” – Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 35” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the back. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top of the legs (to attach the top).
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back as shown. Attach the back to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back will be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and attach to the supports and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the top. Spread glue on one piece and lay the other piece on top. Wiggle it a little to create suction and clamp until dry. Apply edge banding and trim as necessary. Attach the top using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the top of the legs into the top piece. Attach the angle brackets to the edges as decoration.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Entertaining / Shopping / Studio
Each year as the summer winds to a close, I begin my journey into what will soon be fall and I start to daydream of far off places I would love to experience. Wheat fields and seafoam sprayed beaches with wine and cheese as far as they eye can see… *Sigh* … but since that isn’t going to happen any time soon, perhaps a Provence themed outdoor (or indoor) living space and entertaining venue will do the trick! One Kings Lane is hosting a fabulous sale in partnership with Martha Stewart (and me of course) featuring all things Entertaining and Provence at the forefront! Yahoo!
Please click over and peruse this amazing event’s wares, and as usual, this sale and all links in this article are sponsored links by One Kings Lane, and benefit me financially when you click over to browse. To join is free (and easy) and well worth the discounts you will receive (I’m biased of course, but love this site regardless), and if you would like an invitation, just holler (affiliate link, duh).
I hope you enjoy this little outdoor party as much as I do, perhaps one day I will actually get to see this place in person, for now, I can accessorize as if I’m there!
Images from One Kings Lane: From Top – Cuisine Hanging Light, Carolina Beach 1, 2, 3, Ivory and White Striped Tapers, Chalkboard Cheese Slab, Amber Glass Vase Lamp, Clemintina Console, Georgia Chase, Set of 4 Gray Highball, Amber Jug Vase, French Appetizer Tray, Hudson Extension Dining Table, Curtain Rug, Damask Rug
Plans
Free and Easy DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Kids Inspired Juliette Side Table. A gorgeous little side table, painted a sweet pink color would be pretty!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- Scrap of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 12” x 13-1/2”
- 1 – ¾” pine panel at 16-3/4” x 19”
- Baseboard trim
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- One set of 12” drawer slides
- 1 – Drawer pull
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 26-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 13” – Upper Side Frame
- 2 – 1×3 at 13” – Lower Side Frame
- 2 – Baseboard Trim at 13”
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 19” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/4” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 14-1/2” – Bottom
- 3 – 1×2 at 14-1/2” – Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” pine panel at 16-3/4” x 19” – Top
- 2 – 1×4 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×4 at 13-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 12” x 13-1/2”
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/4” x 14-1/4” – Drawer Front
- 2 – 1×3 at 2-1/2” – Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the frame pieces and on the side panels as shown. Assemble using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back of the panels should be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the baseboard trim. Attach to the lower part of the side panels with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the side panels using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach at the spacing indicated using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the side panels using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the cubby trim. Cut a decorative curve with a jigsaw and glue in place.
Cut the piece for the top. If desired, use a router and a router bit to cut a roundover on the front and side edge. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the back, legs, sides, and aprons.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the drawer front and pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Plans
Free and Easy DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Small Hendrix Desk
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – sheets ¾” plywood
- 2 – 2×6 at 6’
- 2 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 6’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of lauan, plywood, or hardboard
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1 – drawer pull
- 1 set of 20” drawer slides
- Wide edge banding for the top
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 26” x 60” – Top
- 4 – 2×6 at 31-1/2 – Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 23” – Side Aprons
- 1 – 2×4 at 39-1/8” – Upper Back Apron
- 1 – 2×4 at 47-5/16” – Lower Back Apron
- 3 – 1×4 at 23” – Top Supports
- 2 – 1×4 at 19” – Back Supports
- 2 – 2×4 at 34-1/2” – Diagonal Supports
- 1 – 1×4 at 20-1/8” – Front
- 1 – 1×4 at 18-3/4” – Drawer Front
- 2 – 1×3 at 18” – Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×3 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – ¼” lauan, plywood, or hardboard at 18” x 20” – Drawer Bottom
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the plywood for the top. Spread a layer of glue on the face of one piece with a brush and position the second piece on top. Wiggle the top piece around to create suction and clamp to dry. A few brad nails can be placed through one of the pieces into the other to secure the pieces together. Once the glue dries, apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood and trim away the excess.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at one edge of each leg. Do not forget there will be a right side set and a left side set so the pocket holes will need to face to the inside. Secure the legs to the top as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Drill pocket holes at each end and secure to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The face of the aprons will be parallel to the edge of the legs and will be located 2” in from the outside edge.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the back aprons. Cut the angles as shown and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the top supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the legs and top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back supports. Drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the supports will be flush with the inside face of the back aprons.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the diagonal supports. Attach to the side aprons using glue and 2” countersunk screws.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the front. Cut the angle as shown and drill pocket holes in this edge only. (If facing the front of the desk, this edge will be on the left and the pocket holes will be on the inside) Attach to the left leg using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the other end to the middle top support using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front into the support.
Step 9
Cut the piece for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Attach the drawer slide hardware. For an easy tutorial on how to attach drawer slides, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 10
Cut the piece for the drawer front. Cut the angle as shown and drill the holes for the drawer pull. There will be a 1/8” gap on the sides and top of the drawer. Attach to the drawer box, then attach the drawer pull.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Home
When you consider self-build, chances are you will focus mostly on the expense of materials,
labor and project management, but there are several costs you’ll need to fork out for before you even get to the construction stage.
The cost of every self-build project will be different, as it depends on multiple factors, but below is a rough guide to the things you should be prepared to spend your money on.
Buying land
Your project won’t get off the ground if you don’t have a plot of land you can build on. Finding the
right location for an affordable price will be key to the success of your scheme.
Land prices vary depending on where they are in the country, so it’s essential to research the local market. Always remember the value of a plot is based on how much a home here is likely to be worth on completion, so take a look at the rest of the neighborhood to help you judge the price.
Architect’s fees
Although you’ll have some input into the design of your home, you’ll need to pay a professional architect to draw up the proper plans for it. Once you reach this stage, you’ll be able to start working out the cost of the build phase, as you’ll consult your architect about the most appropriate materials to use and the design itself. Any structure that is out of the ordinary or difficult to build will result in higher costs when it comes to construction.
Planning permission
Before you get stuck into digging the foundations, you need to have planning permission from your local authority. It is often worth paying a bit more for your land if it comes with outline planning permission. This simply means the council has agreed in principle to a house being built on the plot. Even if you have this to begin with, you’ll still need to submit a detailed planning application for approval. To make this process run as quickly and smoothly as possible, you may want to hire a dedicated planning lawyer to work on your application.
Materials and methods
The raw materials you build your property with will depend on the way your house will be built. Using a brick and block or timber frame construction method will usually cost in the region of $1400 to $1700 per sq m, according to the National Self Build and Renovation Centre. At the top end of the scale are pre-cast concrete panels – coming in at between $1900 and $2300 per sq m – while insulated concrete formwork and structural insulated panel systems are more mid-range at $1500 to $1900 per sq m. The other option is to utilise a steel frame, which costs around $1500 to $1700 per sq m.
Equipment and workers
Even if you’re confident with your DIY skill set, building a house is on a whole different scale to rewiring a plug, for instance. With that in mind, you’ll not only require manpower, but also specialist equipment, such as diggers to excavate the foundations or a crane to lift parts of the structure into place. You will also need to factor in the cost of scaffolding, which is essential when you are doing any work at height.
Top tip: Remember to claim back the VAT charged on your self-build project. You need to
make the application within three months of completing the work and send off all the relevant supporting documents and receipts. This could save you quite a big chunk of money in the long run, though.
Plans
Office pieces are few and far between when it comes to something that still has style and functionality, but not with this collection! Free and Easy DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Potterybarn Inspired Hendrix Lateral File Cabinet!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 2 – 2×3 at 6’
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 – Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 1×8 at 6’
- 1 – 1×12 at 8’
- 1 – Half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- 4 – 2×3 at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 17” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 22-1/4” – Side Panels
- 3 – 1×2 at 31” – Supports
- 2 – 2×2 at 31” – Lower Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 31” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 33” – Shelves
- 5 – 1×2 at 17” – Top Support & Drawer Slide Support
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 18-1/2” – Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 36” – Top
- 4 – 1×8 at 14-1/8 – Sm. Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 1×8 at 14-1/2” – Sm. Drawer Boxes
- 2 – 1×12 at 14-1/2” – Lg. Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×12 at 30” – Lg. Drawer Box
- 2 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 14-1/8” x 16” – Sm. Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 16” x 30” – Lg. Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 14-7/8” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 30-3/4” – Drawer Front
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” and drill pocket holes in the side panel as shown.
Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The back of the panel will be flush with the back of the 2×2 pieces.
Attach the side panel assembly to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The front of the 2x2s will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Cut the 1×2 pieces and the 2×2 pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The holes in the lower 1×2 support will face down and the other two will have the holes facing up.
Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs and supports using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the supports.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the bottom of each shelf to attach to the side panels, supports, and back. Attach using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The top of the shelves will be flush with the top of the supports.
Cut the piece for the top support. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure to the center of the front and back supports using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The top of the support will be flush with the top of the front and back supports.
Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes as shown. The divider will be located in the center of the top support as well as the center of the shelf. Attach using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Attach to the side panels using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports and legs.
Cut the pieces for each of the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Cut the pieces for the bottom. Attach to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware. For a tutorial on how to install drawer slides, click here.Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handles. There will be a 1/8” gap on all sides of the front.
Attach the angle brackets to the edges of the top as decoration.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Design / Shopping / Studio
Mastering an eclectic look is what many feel the true testament of a good designer is.. This might be true, but for me choosing pieces I love in colors and textures I adore, and clustering them together works pretty darn well! I wanted to share a few of my faves with you all from the current Master the Mix sale at One Kings Lane. The links provided in this article are affiliate links of a sort and it benefits me to have you click over and take a peak…just thought I would make that clear before we go any further…*hugs*…
The collection of pieces above, from the Furniture, Lighting and Mirrors sale, are essentially things I might sell a kidney to own. Yep, pretty sure I would.
If you click on over, you will likely need to join with a valid email address and then you can view these items and more from the Master the Mix sales going on now. Not to worry, you can opt out of email notifications if you prefer! Hurry, these sales are limited and short lived, so basically if you snooze you lose!
The amazing mix of items above is from the Chic Kids Essentials sale and shows how easy to it might be to get a perfect balance of eclectic pieces, just by choosing what you love. That is genuinely what I did here and I think it’s pretty fabulous.
Plans
A fabulous free DIY Furniture Plan to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Sarah Jewelry Storage! This piece can be oriented either way – just take the drawers out and turn them over!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- Quarter sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 86” – Sides
- 12 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 25” – Shelves & Cubbies
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 33-1/4” – Dividers
- 2 – 1×2 at 25” – Trim
- 4 – 1×4 at 7-1/2” – Trim
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 1-3/4” x 9-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 1-3/4” x 24-3/4” – Drawer Front & Back
- 3 – ½” plywood at 9-1/2” x 23-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 26-1/2” x 77-1/2” – Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides and the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shelf pieces. Set three of the shelf pieces off to the side for the cubbies. Attach the shelves to the sides at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. It may be easier to attach the shelves with the pocket holes facing down working from the top of the sides, especially in the drawer area!
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the trim. Cut a fancy curve or design of your choice in the 1×4 pieces and attach to the 1×2 with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The face of the trim pieces will be flush with one of the edges of the 1×2.
Attach the trim assembly to the cabinet top and bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the notches in the shelves for the cubbies as shown with a jigsaw. Attach to the sides at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Attach to the cabinet with glue at the spacing indicated and add a few brad nails through the shelf into the dividers.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Cut the notch in the front piece as shown with a jigsaw. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the drawer box frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Add thumbtacks to the bottom of each drawer to make it easier to slide in and out.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
