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Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired 1900s Boulangerie Sideboard (60”)
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 2 – 4×4 at 6’
- 4 – 2×6 at 6’
- 2 – 2×4 at 6’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2 sets of 14” drawer slides
- 2 drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 4×4 at 30-1/2”- Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 11” – Aprons
- 1 – 2×4 at 51” – Aprons
- 2 – 1×2 at 51” – Front Apron
- 3 – 1×4 at 16-1/2”” – Frame Supports
- 4 – 1×2 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 1×2 at 23-3/8” – Drawer Boxes
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 14” x 23-3/8” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) at 24-1/8” – Drawer Fronts
- 2 – 2×4 at 20” – Table Top Ends
- 4 – 2×6 (ripped to 5” wide) at 53” – Table Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the legs with the taper as indicated.
Step 2
Cut the side and back aprons as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end as well as in one long end of each piece to attach the top. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The leg tapers should face to the inside following the longer aprons.
Cut the pieces for the front aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the frame supports as shown. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes at each end as well as in one long end of each piece to attach the top. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the top. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the longer boards. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Attach to the top with each shorter end overlapping by 1” and the longer ends overlapping by 1”. Secure with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the aprons and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the supports into the underside of the top.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the bottom. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here. Install the drawer pulls or knobs.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
For details and modifications on this build, hop on over here to read all about it!
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Wall Mounted Bookcase
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×12 at 6’
- 1 – 1×12 at 3’
Materials
- 10 – 8” corner brackets
- Spray paint to match finish (for brackets, optional)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 59” – Legs
- 4 – 1×12 at 32” – Shelves
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches using a jig saw.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach the shelves at the spacing shown using corner brackets. Two brackets per shelf will be used.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Dumont Buffet. The perfect piece to use as an entertainment credenza or for storage in the bedroom or dining room!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×6 at 6’
- One sheet of ¼” plywood
- Two sheets of ¾” plywood
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 13” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/2” – Base
- 2 – 1×2 at 27-5/16” – Base
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 53” – Bottom
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20” – Sides & Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 16-1/2” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 53” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 17” – Drawer Shelves
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 20” x 53” – Back
- 6 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 12-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 6 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 16” – Drawer Boxes
- 3 – ¼” plywood at 14” x 16” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 21-1/2” – Doors
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the curve in one piece using a jigsaw. Clamp the finished leg to an uncut leg piece and cut out using the router with a patterning bit. Repeat for the remaining two legs.
Cut the pieces for the base. Cut the bevel as shown in each end of the longer pieces to match the angle in the legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Drill pocket holes in the top edge of the longer pieces as well as one long edge of the shorter pieces to attach the base to the bottom. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach the base to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edge of the sides and dividers will be flush with the front edge of the bottom. The bottom will extend by ¼” to accommodate the back.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the sides and dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edge of the top will be flush with the front edge of the sides and dividers. The top will extend by ¼” to accommodate the back.
Cut the pieces for the drawer shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The spacing of the drawer shelves is not equal so that the fronts, when attached, are equal.
Cut the piece for the back. Attach as shown (between the overhang of the top and bottom) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Adjust as necessary.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach to the drawer boxes . For an easy tutorial, click here. The top of the upper drawer front will be flush with the top of the cabinet. The bottom of the lower drawer will be flush with the bottom of the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap between the upper and middle drawer fronts, as well as the middle and lower drawer fronts.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the concealed hinges so the top of each door is flush with the top of the cabinet. The sides of the doors will be flush with the sides of the cabinets. There will be a 1/8” gap between the doors and the drawer fronts.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Entertaining
All that glitters is ghoulish… and the countdown has officially begun! Only 27 more days until All Hallows Eve, can you feel the excitement in the air? Is it just me? Probably… Squeal… Oh how I just can’t wait! I will be showcasing inspiring DIY projects all month long, for this most frightful of occasions!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Portland Desk
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- One full sheet of ¾” plywood
- One half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- Scrap of 1×4 at 6”
- One half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- One full sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- One set of hinges
- Magnetic catch for the door
- One drawer knob
- Seven drawer pulls
- Stick-on or nail on furniture glides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 39-1/4” – Sides, Inner Side
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 19” – Right Drawer Dividers
- 3 – 1×2 at 6” – Shorter Aprons
- 1 – 1×4 at 6” – Kick Plate
- 3 – 1×2 at 30” – Longer Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/4” x 19” – Left Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 19” – Inner Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 25” – Drawer Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 19” – Upper Divider
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 37-1/4” x 38-1/4” – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 38-3/4” – Top Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 20-1/4” – Top Trim
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 40-1/4” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 5-1/2” – Drawer Box 1
- 2 – ½” plywood at 5-1/2” x 18” – Drawer Box 1 Sides
- 1 – ½” plywood at 3” x 5-1/2” – Drawer Box 1 Back
- 1 – ½” plywood at 3” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Box 1 Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 5” – Drawer Box 2
- 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 18” – Drawer Box 2 Sides
- 1 – ½” plywood at 3” x 5” – Drawer Box 2 Back
- 1 – ½” plywood at 3” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Box 2 Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 17” – Drawer Box 3
- 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 18” – Drawer Box 3 Sides
- 1 – ½” plywood at 5” x 16” – Drawer Box 3 Back
- 1 – ½” plywood at 16” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Box 3 Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 6-3/4” – Drawer Box 4
- 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 18” – Drawer Box 4 Sides
- 1 – ½” plywood at 5” x 5-3/4” – Drawer Box 4 Back
- 1 – ½” plywood at 5-3/4” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Box 4 Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 5-3/4” – Drawer Box 5
- 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 18” – Drawer Box 5 Sides
- 1 – ½” plywood at 5” x 4-3/4” – Drawer Box 5 Back
- 1 – ½” plywood at 4-3/4” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Box 5 Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 5-3/4” – Drawer Box 6 & 7
- 4 – ½” plywood at 5-1/2” x 18” – Drawer Box 6 & 7 Sides
- 2 – ½” plywood at 5-1/2” x 4-3/4” – Drawer Box 6 & 7 Back
- 2 – ½” plywood at 4-3/4” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Box 6 & 7 Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 14-1/4” – Door
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the inner side. Cut a decorative notch as shown in the drawing or create your own.
Cut the pieces for the right drawer dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each divider. Attach to the right side as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the shorter stretchers. Drill pocket holes in one end only and attach to the right side as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the kick plate. Cut a decorative notch in the bottom and drill pocket holes in one shorter end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the inner side piece as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the side into the dividers, stretchers, and kick plate.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the longer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown to the inner side as well as the left side using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the left dividers and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece. Attach to the left side using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the inner divider. Cut the notches with a jig saw and drill a pocket hole in each notch as shown. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws into the long stretchers and 1-1/4” brad nails into the dividers.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the upper divider. Cut the notches with a jigsaw and drill a pocket hole in each notch. Drill pocket holes in the lower edge also. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the top trim. Drill pocket holes in each end of the back piece and a curve at the front edge of the side pieces. Attach the longer piece to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top and attach the trim using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the underside of the top into the trim.
Attach the top to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, dividers, and stretchers.
Step 9
The drawer boxes are different sizes except #6 & #7 – they are the same size. They are all constructed in the same manner with glue, pocket hole screws, and brad nails.
Assembly for the drawer boxes is as follows: Cut the piece for the front from ¾” plywood and the sides, back, and bottom from ½” plywood. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in one shorter end of each side piece. Attach the back to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the bottom to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the entire box assembly to the drawer front using glue and 1” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the sides into the front.
Attach stick-on or nail-on furniture glides to the bottom of each drawer to help them slide smoothly. Attach the drawer pulls.
Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door. Shim in place and attach the hinges. Drill a hole for the knob and attach. Position and attach the magnetic catch.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home / Shopping
After making the announcement way back in March, I admit to having gone fairly quiet in the way of baby bird #2 and his imminent arrival! I shared some of the items I purchased for the bird’s new nursery, my plans for the nursery as a whole (once we found out he was a boy), and even a tutorial for the curtains I made, complete with a cute video of soon to be big brother (scroll to the bottom), but that is about it my friends… serious blogger fail, eh? No pictures of the baby bump, no updates on the nursery, we are talking serious fail…
I promise before the bird flies the coop (or at least within some proximity to it, since we are now only 3 weeks out from the E.T.A.) to catch you up since many of you have sent me sweet emails asking for the deets!
To start, I thought I would share a few of the glorious baby gear finds I have purchased for the bird that will make my life easier and less spendy in the long run! Be forewarned, this baby is a wordy one…
First on the list is the Baby Jogger City Select Stroller which converts from a single to a double and back again if need be. This item is NOT budget friendly per se, but given how many strollers I have gone through in the relatively short lifespan of my Monster Mash boy (he’s not yet 5), I can only wish they had this available when he was born and I might have saved myself soooooo much money!
I place this item in a relatively new class of ‘convertible strollers’, of which there are now a few that exist on the market (Uppa Baby Vista and Bugaboo Donkey). My comparison of the City Select to the other two options is this:
It falls between the other two in price, it expands front to back (tandem) rather than side to side making it easier to maneuver in public spaces (the Bugaboo expands to the side), and the second seat is exactly the same as the first seat, making both riders equally comfortable and not forcing one to be shoved underneath the other in a less sturdy/comfortable jump seat. I also adore the fact that there are 16 different configurations ranging from facing each other to facing the same direction to facing different directions. Basically either seat can face me or away from me depending on their respective moods (or mine). Of the 3 options listed, this is the only one that can do all of these things making it far and above the winner in my book. Keep in mind this is one gal’s opinion and not a hard indisputable fact, and I’m sure there are other features that are more important to other people. These are simply mine.
I have to figure that at almost 5 years old, I have maybe 1 more year (maybe) where I can force Monster Mash into a stroller at all. Truthfully I need this year to keep him from getting killed off while I man the baby bird. If he runs off (and he will) I have no way to grab him in time without ditching the bird to move more quickly. Ugh. I need him to learn some discipline quick like, at least before he is more than too old to ride along with his brother.
This next find is one that has a few upgrades from another product I used with the first baby bird… It’s the Charlie Banana hybrid cloth diaper and is fairly genius in my book because it allows folks like me who tend to choose easy over excess work, to have something economical and better for baby than if this hybrid didn’t exist and the only options were between cloth and disposable diapers.
There are a few of these on the market as well (G Diapers and Bum Genius to name a couple) and all proclaim to help you save on the order of $1200 per year in diaper costs (I think that is how it worked out mathmatically, but don’t shoot me if I am misquoting, I have pregnancy brain after all). Of all the various options available, here is why I chose this particular brand over some of the others:
It’s a true hybrid in that it offers both cloth and disposable inserts, has an adjustable one size fits all option, and has snap enclosures rather than velcro.
You see…I used G Diapers with my first born beginning around 18 months (never occurred to me before this point) when we were out in the heat of Arizona and his diaper rash and occasional heat rash became absolutely off the hook. Nothing I tried worked to help his poor little skin until I switched to this form of diapering and quite literally within a couple of days neither issue was an issue again (this is not the case for everyone, but was for us)… but of course a new issue arose. G Diapers (and all of the hybrid diapers as far as I can tell) are relatively costly (coming in at around $20 a pop) and so I could only afford about 4 of them which meant almost constant washing. That was no problem for me except that the velcro enclosures completely wore out and were not salvageable. Also you need to purchase each new respective size as your kiddo grows making it an investment you need to keep making over and over for one reason or another. This made it tough for me to justify at all, except that it solved a rather uncomfortable problem for Monster Mash. That obviously takes precedence over every other thing.
Now Bum Genius is not truly a hybrid to the extent that G and Charlie Banana are, in that it doesn’t offer a disposable insert that can be used more conveniently when you are out and about. This is important to me because it means that I don’t have to carry around a nasty cloth insert the entire time I’m out of the house should baby bird decide to do the deed. Personally I like the idea that I can simply toss, refill, and go.
This makes the Charlie Banana brand the ideal solution for me and since it’s a ‘convertible’ one size fits all option that simply snaps in a different configuration each time the bird outgrows things I only have to make one investment in enough diapers to make it through the week with ease and will only have to supplement as diapers wear or are ruined by things not of my own control (it happens with boys, I will leave it at that).
Now for the last fabulous find, this one is far less complicated and in fact can be summed up in a few brief thoughts slash a short rant…
The playard. A truly convenient all in one sort of item that serves the purpose of a bassinet while the baby is co-sleeping in our room for the first few months, a changer for diaper duty, a play area for fun time, and an easily movable and travel worthy containment vessel in the future as baby bird grows.
I had this type of item for Monster Mash and used it in every way possible until one fine day I put my 4 pound dog in it, to keep him contained while we had people coming into and out of the house, and he chewed a bloody hole through the netting. Womp womp… there isn’t even a way to fix that sort of thing and so it rendered my fabulous and fairly expensive playard utterly useless. Ugh.
Enter stage left with this particular brand, Chicco Lullaby LX Playard, and it has solved the ONE issue I had with mine and ALL of the former options out there…. it’s mattress is washable! That’s right, baby gear that is only able to be ‘spot cleaned’ and is meant for regular usage by said baby, is entirely useless in the world of babies. Baby Gear manufacturers take note! Kids get sick and throw up, they have accidents, things spill, stuff happens, so if you ever create a product for us mom’s and our bambinos that is not completely washable I will kind of hate you…forever.., just sayin! Try having the swine flu hit your household while baby is using the playard to sleep in, and having to wash and then blow dry the cardboard insert filled mattress by hand, thirty times a day, until health returns… ya…it happened to me.
The Chicco Lullaby LX Playard is the only model I have come acrossso far that is actually both supportive for baby and washable for mommy. End rant, enuf said. Yahoo…
Psst – all opinions are my own and I wasn’t paid of perk’d to express any of the ideas above. Not a single one of these brands has any idea who I am.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Dresser. ** Different species of wood or colors of stain can be used for the drawer fronts **
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 – Half sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Five sets of 16” drawer slides
- Six knobs or pulls
- Two sets of hinges
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 5-1/2” – Legs
- 3 – 2×2 at 13” – Bottom Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 47” – Bottom Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 52” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 26” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 26” x 50-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 26” – Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 18” – Shelf
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 31-3/4” – Large Drawer Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Square Drawer Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 22-1/2” – Small Drawer Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 52” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 25-3/4” – Door
- 2 – 1×6 at 7-1/2” – Square Drawer Box
- 6 – 1×6 ay 14-1/2” – Square and Large Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 1×6 at 30-3/4” – Larger Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 1×3 at 14-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 1×3 at 21-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Boxes
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 7-1/2” x 16” – Square Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 16” x 21-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Boxes
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 16” x 30-3/4” – Larger Drawer Boxes
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/4” x 8-1/4” – Square Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-5/8” x 22-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Larger Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and the bottom frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach the frame to the bottom piece using 2-1/2” countersunk screws through the frame into the bottom. The bottom will overlap the frame by 1” on all sides.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in the sides and back of the piece. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The piece will be set back ¾” from the front edge of the sides.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the larger drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes in the sides and back of each piece. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the square drawer divider. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back of the piece. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 9
Cut the piece for the smaller drawer divider. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 10
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 11
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Step 12
Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments.
Step 13
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, clickhere.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I took the wonderful and simple design I found at https://www.thedesignconfidential.com/2012/01/free-diy-furniture-plans-bu… .
I took the jewelry armoire and converted it to a key locker. The frame and doore are made from poplar and the back from poplar plywood I had laying around the garage. The key is from Hobby Lobby at $2 and the face of the door is from some scrap gunstock hardwood flooring . The magnetic closer, pads, knob, hinges, and hooks I had in the garage gathering dust until yesterday.
Estimated Cost
Poplar wood $12
Key $2
Scrap wood, knob, closer, pads, hinges est $5
Length of Time
1 day (takes time for the stain to dry)
Lumber Used
Poplar, poplar plywood, scrap gunstock hardwood flooring.
Finishing Technique
Minwax gunstock stain. After a good sanding and cleaning put on the first coat, let it sit for a few minutes, wiped it off, hit it with the 00 steel wool, and then a second sitting of stain. Wiped it off and it looks great.
The added pic is of the inside of the key locker. I don't have a router so the face is just screwed in the back of the door frame.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Emmerson Buffet
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at 3’
- Two sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- Two sets of hinges
- Two door handles or pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×6 at 13-3/4” – Base
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 53-1/2” – Bottom
- 2 – 1×3 at 48” – Base Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 25-3/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-3/4” x 52” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 25-3/4” – Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 53-1/2”- Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 17” – Shorter Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 34-1/4” – Longer Shelves
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 16-15/16” x 25-1/2” – Doors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the base and the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each base piece. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom and base pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides, back, and divider into the top.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as the center. Install the hinges, then install the doors. Drill holes and attach any door hardware.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / DIY
For those of you who like a more spooky festivity or a bit more of the macabre, these projects and products are for you (and me!)! I adore the darker side of decor to ring in the occasion and these are perfect for that! A few of these even seem entirely budget friendly to make or reproduce a version of yourself, at home!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Emmerson 3 Drawer Dresser
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at 3’
- 2 – 1×8 at 8’
- One sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 3 – sets of 16” drawer slides
- 3- Drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×6 at 14” –Base
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 34-1/2” – Bottom
- 2 – 1×3 at 29” – Base Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 27-3/4” – Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Shelves
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 27-3/4” x 36” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 36” – Top
- 6 – 1×8 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 6 -1×8 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 3 – ¼” plywood at 16” x 33-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 34-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 34-1/4” – Middle Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the base and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each base piece. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom to attach the sides. Position the base pieces on the bottom as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom and existing base pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece to attach the top. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each edge. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shelves will be set ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, go here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap all around. For another easy tutorial, go here. Attach the drawer pulls.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
