[carousel-horizontal-posts-content-slider]
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Benchwright Buffet.
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 3 – 2×3 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 3 – 1×6 at 8’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ½” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- 4 – 2×3 at 35-1/4” – Legs
- 4 – 2×3 at 13-1/2” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 26-3/4” – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×3 at 62” – Bottom Aprons
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 29-1/4” x 62” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 62” – Bottom
- 3 – 1×3 at 17” – Bottom Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Dividers
- 1 – 1×2 at 62” – Top Apron
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 20-1/2” – Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 66” – Top
- 4 – 1×3 at 15-1/4” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 27-1/2” – Door Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 15-1/4” x 22-1/2” – Door Panels
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/4” x 20” – Drawer Fronts
- 6 – 1×6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 6 – 1×6 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 3 – ¼” plywood at 16” x 18-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed areas of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as the top end of the legs.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the plywood panel as shown. Attach the panel to the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the side panel assembly as shown to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws. Use 2” pocket hole screws through the frame pieces into the legs and use 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side panels into the legs.
Cut the pieces for the Bottom aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket hole screws as shown. Attach to the legs and the back apron using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the bottom aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The face of the shelf should be flush with the top of the aprons.
Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Attach to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The supports should fit up against the back side of the bottom.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. When drilling pocket holes, note that there will be a left and a right so that the pocket holes are hidden in the section where the drawers are located.
Cut the piece for the top apron. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes at the sides and back, then attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes at the sides and back also and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and pocket hole screws through the legs and back into the top piece. Use 1-1/2” pocket hole screws through the legs and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back.
Cut the pieces for the door frames. Drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as well as the piece for the panel. Attach the panels to the shorter pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the assembly to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The fronts will overlap the opening by ¼” on each side.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Home
A little something exciting happened this past Saturday… Those of you who hang out with us on Facebook are already 'in the know', since I tend to share exciting news there first or at least to give a sneak peak or two on occasion…but for the rest of you, I will give you a clue (if the picture hasn't already)…
Ok, surprises are not my thing so I will just tell you instead, that the baby bird flew the coop, and he arrived a couple of days early at that! Yahoo! This was quite unexpected for a number of reasons, but suffice it to say that we were scheduled to hatch this bird on Monday morning, but late Friday night he decided he had different plans…
By early Saturday morning, the bird had landed and was the spitting image of his big brother, my Monster Mash boy. The notable difference between the two being in personality, as this little bug is quite the snuggle bunny. After having such a completely independent spirit for my first bambino, I have to say, it's kind of nice to experience the cuddliness of my second!
He handled the car ride home like a champ! So basically, he slept the whole way, which is fine by me since all of you who are parents know this particular portion of the homecoming has the possibility of going terribly awry.
It was love at first when the little noticed the big, and the jury is still out about how the big feels regarding the little. I know he thinks he's cute, but I sense he is a tad nervous about the idea of a tiny baby in the house and what that will mean for him. He seems terrified of the prospect of diaper duty, as though a 4 year old would even be considered for the job.
I feel like this bundle of joy has brought a much adored ray of sunshine to our lives and I am soaking in every second of it. It is so different with my second than with my first, in that the fear isn't there and it leaves the door wide open for experiencing the joy. Having a new baby is scary for a first time parent and exhausting in ways you can only understand once you have done it. In all honestly it took me till my first born was almost 4, for the life changes that come with being a parent to have firmly taken hold, and the exhaustion to have become a familiar and permanent fixture in my everyday life anyhow, to even consider that adding a baby to the mix wouldn't completely put me over the top. This timing and spread seem to be ideal for me because this time around even the sleepless nights and virtually constant feedings are so totally fabulous. I'm for surely smitten with our new addition and love that I could share this gift with my monster mash boy. He is forever a big brother from this day forward…
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired 1900s Boulangerie Bar Table (84”)
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 2 – 4×4 at 6’
- 2 – 2×4 at 8’
- 2 – 2×4 at 6’
- 5 – 2×6 at 8’
- 1 – 2×6 at 6’
Materials
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 4×4 at 34-1/2”- Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 18-3/4” – Aprons
- 2 – 2×4 at 70” – Aprons
- 3 – 2×4 at 23” – Frame Supports
- 2 – 2×6 (ripped to 5” wide) at 27-1/2” – Table Top Ends
- 5 – 2×6 at 74” – Table Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the legs with the taper as indicated.
Step 2
Cut the aprons as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end as well as in one long end of each piece to attach the top. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The leg tapers should face to the inside following the longer aprons.
Step 3
Cut the frame supports as indicated. Drill pocket holes at each end as well as in one long end of each piece to attach the top. Attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes as shown in the longer boards. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Attach to the top with each shorter end overlapping by 3-1/2” and the longer ends overlapping by ¾”. Secure with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the aprons and supports into the underside of the top.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
Isn’t he gorgeous? I just adore his quirky retro vibe and his colors… I feel like he needs a name, but haven’t decided what that should be!
I found him during my recent adventure at Denio’s and fell instantly in love. In fact he was one of the first things I brought to the new house! Yep, did I mention we moved? Ya, that happened. I can’t wait to show you around the new place, but for now I shall tease you a bit and show you my new boyfriend above and a very limited sneak peak at of the place we now call home!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Emmerson Buffet with Drawers
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at 3’
- 7 – 1×8 at 8’
- Two sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- Six sets of 16” drawer slides
- Six sets of drawer handles or pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×6 at 13-3/4” – Base
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 53-1/2” – Bottom
- 2 – 1×3 at 48” – Base Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 25-3/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-3/4” x 52” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 25-3/4” – Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 53-1/2”- Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 17” – Shorter Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 34-1/4” – Longer Shelves
- 12 – 1×8 at 14-1/2” – Small & Large Drawer Sides
- 6 – 1×8 at 16” – Small Drawer Front & Back
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Small Drawer Bottoms
- 6 – 1×8 at 33-1/4” – Large Drawer Front & Back
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 31-3/4” – Large Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 16-3/4” – Small Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 16-3/4” – Lower Small Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 34” – Large Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 34” – Lower Large Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the base and the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each base piece. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom and base pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides, back, and divider into the top.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes on all four edges of the bottom pieces as well as the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Note that the two bottom drawers are ¼” taller. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts. For another easy tutorial, click here.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Studio
A little while back a finalist was chosen as the grand prize winner of the “Boost Your Roost” contest! Watch the video series featuring the homeowners renovation project on HouseLogic.com. Bonus: You could win $1,000 from Lowes just for guessing the value that was added to their home!
Each week a new portion of the remodel will be revealed and you will have the chance to enter to win $1,000. To enter, watch videos for tips and then answer a quiz. By answering more quizzes, you receive more entries to win. After all of the videos have been revealed, a winner will be announced. (More details and rules will be posted on the site.)
Did you vote in the “Boost Your Roost” contest on HouseLogic? Check out the winner’s $20,000 renovation and play to win $1,000 from Lowes.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a World Market Inspired Campaign Desk
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 3 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 2” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1 – set of 20” drawer slides
- 2 – drawer pulls with attached screws (for the pullouts)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 17-3/4” – Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 36-9/16” – Legs
- 1 – 1×4 at 56-1/2” – Leg Stretcher
- 4 – 1×4 at 22” – Desk Frame
- 1 – 1×4 at 58” – Desk Frame
- 2 – 1×4 at 20” – Desk Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/2” x 60” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/2” – Pullout Support
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2-1/8” wide) at 13-1/2” – Pullout Support
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-3/8” – Pullouts
- 2 – 1×3 at 17” – Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×3 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 17” x 20” – Drawer Bottom
- 1 – 1×4 at 17-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as indicated in the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the leg stretcher. Attach to the legs as shown using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the desk frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 22” pieces. Also drill pocket holes in one long edge of the 58” piece as well as the 20” pieces to attach the top. Using a jigsaw, cut the opening as shown in two of the 22” pieces (for the pullouts) before assembly. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Attach the frame to the legs as shown using glue and countersunk 2” screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang by 1” on all sides. Attach to the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the pullouts and the pullout supports. Drill pocket holes in each longer edge of the larger support, as well as one long edge of the narrower support. Attach the pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Attach the pullout support assembly to the underside of the table as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Attach the knobs to the center of the 13-3/8” edge of the pullouts.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Attach to the drawer box using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Cut the piece for the drawer front. There will be a 1/8”gap at the sides. Fasten in place with 1-1/4” brad nails through the front. Open the drawer, and insert countersunk 1-1/4” through the drawer box into the drawer front.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I modified the chairs to be taller and not as wide. The darker chair was done earlier in the summer and was stained with the last bit of stain in the can. I used the same wood, and stain on the 2nd chair and it came out lighter. They were finished in mid September. Probably the product of not stirring well enough. Overall, we're very happy with our patio set.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Emmerson King Bed. The Headboard, Footboard, and Sides can be stained in a striped pattern to mimic slats…
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink bit for drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- Two sheets of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 4×4 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 17 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 1×4 at 6’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- One set of Bed Rail Brackets
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 4×4 at 46” – Headboard Legs
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 38” x 71” – Headboard Panel
- 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 71” – Headboard/Footboard Top
- 2 – 4×4 at 15-1/2” – Footboard Legs
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 71” – Footboard Panel
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 82” – Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 78” – Slat Supports
- 17 – 1×3 at 76-1/2” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the headboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the footboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat support. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Demilune Bath Shelf
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
Lumber
- 3 – 2×2 at 6’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- 4 – 8” angle brackets
- 8 – 4″ or 5″ angle brackets
- Spray paint to match finish (for brackets, optional)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 3 – 2×2 at 47-1/2” – Legs
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16” – Shelves
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches and the curve using a jig saw. Apply edge banding, if desired.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach the shelves at the spacing shown using corner brackets. Three brackets per shelf will be used.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
The shorter, wider bench was built straight from the plans on the site. I modified the 2nd bench to be taller and not as wide. The darker bench was done earlier in the summer and were stained with the last bit of stain in the can. I used the same wood, and stain on the 2nd bench and they came out lighter. They were finished in mid September. Probably the product of not stirring well enough. Overall, we're very happy with our patio set.
Showcase
I built the tall jewelry armoire as a special gift to a little 5 year old girl named Brooke. I got the design at this link on The Design Confindential https://www.thedesignconfidential.com/2012/01/free-diy-furniture-plans-build-….
Since November 2010 Brooke has been fighting a cancer called neuroblastoma. Her family has traveled the country for two years searching for the procedures, trials, medicines that will give Brooke a wonderful future. Brooke has a special gift for all young cancer patients called Brooke's Blossoms and I thought she need a place to hold her favorites. So the armoire. I hope to present it to Brooke upon her return to South Texas after treatments in micigan. If you want to know more try this link: www.BrookeFightsBack.org
I followed the plan to a tee but I did add a small shelf. I have not stained or painted the case as I want Brooke to make that decision. I also did not add hooks because the parents need to be concerned with Brooke cutting herself so they will come up with the appropriate hangers.
The wood is a good grade of pine. The knob is from Hobby Lobby ($2) and the mirror tile from Lowes (about $1.25 but I had to buy six to get one. I don't have a router so the mirror and the other door display are held on the door with mirror clips. Total cost about $20.
