I used your plans (modified slightly) for the “My First Table and Chair” that I found on TheDesignConfidential.com. Thanks for the great plans.
The legs were slimmed down from the 3″ in the plans to 2 1/8″ and lengethend from 16 3/4″ to 19″. The seat heigt was rasied 1.25″ as well.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Bouclier Hutch
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the front trim. Attach the front trim at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The outside face of the trim will be flush with the outside face of the sides. There will be a right and a left.
Cut the pieces for the header and the header trim. Attach the header trim to the front trim with glue and a couple of brad nails through the top of the trim. The trim will overlap the sides of the front trim by ¼” on each side.
Attach the header with glue and brad nails through the front of the header into the sides. Add a few brad nails through the header trim into the header to secure it in place.
Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each of the shelves. Attach to the sides as indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Add a few brad nails through the back into the shelves to further secure the back.
If a hole for electronics cords is desired, the hole can be bored in the back using a paddle bit or a hole saw.
Cut the pieces for the top. The top will overlap the front and sides by ¾”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides and the header.
Secure the hutch to the desk with angle brackets on each side.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
This project was so simple and has had such a big impact on my Monster Mash boy’s room, that I am kind of wanting to make a few more for other areas of my home. Such a fun build and doesn’t require any special skills or prior experience whatsoever… nope, nothing but a couple of basic tools, some glue, and a bit of patience to get this project finished! Many of you have seen similar items for sale for nearly $1000, so the savings on this piece is quite substantial, and the style it brings to your space is out of this world!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
$100-$200
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Sketch your tree shape onto a sheet of plywood. There are 3 possible ways to accomplish this, the easiest way to do this is to use a projector and project the image in full size onto your plywood. If a projector is not something you happen to own, there are two other method below for transfering your image.
1. Download the Template for Modern Tree Shaped Bookshelf : this will turn your image into a tiled poster by printing a series of pages. This is already exactly the size needed so no resizing or fancy stuff necessary when printing.
2. Grid Transfer Method
Once you have your image sketched out, use your jig saw to cut out your tree. Please watch the video to get an idea about how this comes together!
Use your first tree shape to trace your shape onto the remaining sheets of plywood and cut out exactly as you did the first.
Once your trees are all cut out, glue them together by placing glue between each layer and clamping along the outside edges. Allow your glue to set up for about 30 minutes. Sand and Finish as desired.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
This post is brought to you in partnership with 3M DIY. Learn how to work smart and be prepared at 3MDIY.com. Content and/or other value provided by our partner, 3M DIY.
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
The wonderful wife wanted a corner cupboard so I built this one I found on Ana White's site. The address is http://ana-white.com/2010/12/plans/corner-cupboard Little did I know that I would have to repaint the entire dining room to match the corner cupboard. A really good project that will test your abilities and patience. Constantly keep everything level,vertical, and square. It is a trip to say the least. Most important follow the instructions and stay calm when things do come out as expected. I got the stone for the doors from the ReStore at Habitat for Humanity and the hardware from Kennedy Hardware in Indiana. I did make one mistake on the doors. See if you can find it. I call it a “Conversation Starter.”
Follow the instructions. I filled the joints made by the sides meeting the front frame and back with 1/4″ dowel. The plans can be found at
Less than $200. Cost rose because I spent about $30 for the cast iron hardware and $24 for the stone to fill the voids in the doors. I also bought the better grade of pine for the front frame and door frames.
About a week. Had to wait on the hardware to arrive and I gave the cabinet three coats of paint. The grout also took 48 hours to dry.
Pine lumber and sanded pine plywood.
Three coats of Behr Pearly White with a lot of pre-sanding and sanding between the first two coats.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Stria Nightstand
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$25-$50
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the bottom as well as the top of the sides. Attach the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides with 1-1/2” pocket hole screws through the holes in the side pieces into the top.
Cut the piece for the back. After checking the cabinet for square, attach using glue and 5/8” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the pedestal. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces to make a frame. Also drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece to attach to the bottom of the cabinet. Use glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws to attach the pedestal. There will be a 3/4” border around the pedestal.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the bottoms. Attach using glue and 5/8” brad nails.
Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions at the measurements shown in the drawings.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach to the front of the drawer boxes using glue and 1” screws placed where they will be hidden by the trim slats.
Cut the pieces for the trim slats and attach to the drawer fronts using glue and 5/8” brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Just finished building these with my Dad, loosely based on the plans for the Pottery Barn-inspired Bailey Cubes (as with any project, we modified and improvised along the way).
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Bouclier Desk
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$75-$100
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in the legs as shown using a jigsaw. The angles will face to the inside of the desk.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Cut the piece for the back. Cut the notch as shown and drill pocket holes. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the left side drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes in one long edge of the middle shelf. Drill pocket holes in both long edges of the lower shelf as well as at the back edge of the larger side piece. It will be easier to assemble these pieces to each other before attaching to the desk. Use glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws to attach the side piece and lower shelf to the desk. The middle shelf can be attached to the side panel with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the side panel into the shelf.
Cut the pieces for the right side drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown and attach to the back and side panels with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The center shelf will be level with the drawer shelf on the left side.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the top piece into the side and back panels.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket hole screws in each end of the side pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the drawer fronts. For the larger drawer front, the ¾” filler will need to be glued between the two drawer fronts as a sort of “false piece” to balance out the look of the drawer fronts. Pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
I couldn’t be more excited to announce my partnership with The Home Depot as part of The Fall Style Guide Blog Network! As such, I will be sharing some fabulous projects over the next few months and I personally can’t wait to get my crafting fix! Hatching this baby bird has been quite the experience but I am eager to get back into one of my favorite pastimes!
This is exciting stuff The Home Depot is branching into and I for one couldn’t be more thrilled that several of my favorite things will be merging and finding common ground under this new concept: DIY, Design, Crafting, and Holiday Decor! Can I get a yahoo? It’s my dream come true quite frankly! Be sure to check out the special fall related projects and style ideas they have! Oh fabulous fall, there is no better season in my book!
There is even an app for this! I know right? Genius… Some info on that: Make the fall season your own with The Home Depot Style Guide. Find the latest home improvement projects, design ideas, décor trends, budget-friendly updates and more. Easily browse, share and shop this magazine so you can start enjoying your space faster.
Did you catch that…you can shop the magazine right from your mobile device or computer…LOVE!
For regular updates on current happenings tune into The Home Depot on FB and Twitter! I will be participating in the Fall Style Guide Twitter Q & A on November 15th at 8pm EST using the hashtag #AskTHD! I hope you will join me, it should be a fabulous event and my very first Twitter Party! yahoo…
Disclosure:
The Home Depot partnered with bloggers such as me for their Fall Style Guide Blog Network. As part of this program, I received compensation for my time. They did not tell me what to purchase or what to say about any product mentioned in these posts. The Home Depot believes that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. The Home Depot’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired 1900s Boulangerie Table Without a Kreg Jig
$50-$75
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the legs with the taper as indicated.
Cut the pieces for the blocks. The one of the blocks will be positioned on the same side of the leg as the taper. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws. Keep in mind there will be two right legs and two left legs.
Cut the aprons as indicated. Attach to the blocks on the legs with countersunk 2-1/2” screws and with the taper facing the long side. Make sure the apron is flush with the outside facing edges of the legs.
Cut the frame supports as indicated. Secure to the frame as shown with glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws. The 2×8 will be positioned with the wider edge facing up while the 2x4s are positioned on end.
Cut the pieces for the top frame supports. Attach to the side aprons between the blocks using glue and 2-1/2” screws.
Cut the pieces for the top frame. The longer frame pieces will be positioned 1” from the outside edge of the legs and secured to the longer aprons using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.
The shorter frame pieces will be attached using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws into the side aprons.
Cut the piece for the center top divider. Position the piece as shown and secure to the 2×8 support piece using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.
Cut the pieces for the other dividers. Position the pieces as shown and secure to the supports using glue and 2-1/2” screws.
Cut the pieces for the panels. The pieces can be arranged in a random order but each panel needs to have 2 – 2x2s, 2 – 2x3s, and 2 – 2x4s in order to fit into the 15” opening. It would be a good idea to finish the panels before attaching them to the top in case there are gaps in between the boards.
Secure in place using glue and 2-1/2” screws through the bottom of the supports into the panel pieces.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
I have thoughts of a fabulous Halloween party in my relatively near future (ok, maybe sometime in the next 5 years…), complete with spooky invitations and haunted libations… won't you join me in this fun little daydream of mine?
Apparently the apple doesn't fall far from the tree because this has most definitely rubbed off on my Monster Mash boy! He has asked for a Halloween themed birthday party! Though this might be a tad tough for the middle of December, especially with that time of year's tendency toward a very different kind of holiday, I plan to put a few of these fabulous ideas to good use anyhow!
Sources from Left to right, Top to bottom:
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired King Stria Bed
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$75-$100
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs and headboard/footboard frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws as shown in the drawings.
Cut the pieces for the headboard/footboard panels. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the frames using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The faces of the panels will be flush with the faces of the frames.
Cut the pieces for the sides and slat supports. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue!
Cut the pieces for the trim slats. Attach to the headboard and footboard as shown with approximately ½” spacing using glue and 5/8” brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
This table is my version of Design Confidential's Chesapeake Snack Table. I built it from 3/4″ solid oak flooring that was given to me. It is a special but simple and elegant table. The base is pine and the top is made from oak flooring with the tongues and grooves cut off. I attached the top with only pocket hole screws and no glue so I could remove the top should it break or buckle. The joints are very tight so weather changes could stress it beyond its breaking point.
Cost was nearly nothing since the oak was given to me and the base was pine from my scrap pile but I would guess that the screws and glue could add up to a few dollars.
About 3 hours not including the time for waiting for paint and stain to dry. For that add another day.
Oak for the top and pine for the base.
Minwax Golden Oak two coats
Three coats of Rustoleum Sating White Enamel spray.