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DIY
Last year, around this time, our friend Melissa from Zucchini & Co. created some of the most beautiful holiday printables for us (here and here)! This year I am sharing with all of you, the entire 'Up On The Rooftop' collection! Quite frankly many of the pieces in this printable collection can be used year round and don't necessarily have a 'holiday' like feel! Of course the wintry styling and hints of reindeer abound suggest the holidays are perfect as well! yahoo… From thank you cards and shopping lists to cupcake toppers and gift tags, we have a little something for all of your holiday needs!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Bar Components – Shelf Hutch. The perfect topper for this piece…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- One half sheet of ¾” plywood
- One quarter sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Side Frames
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 7-3/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Shelf & Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.
Attach the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel s should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.
Attach the side panel assemblies to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelf and the bottom. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge of each piece. Attach to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. The front edge will overlap by 1”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the top edge of the back and side panels.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Bar Components – Cabinet Base
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- One full sheet of ¾” plywood
- One half sheet of ½” plywood
- Piece of 3-1/2” trim at 18”
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1” screws
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- One set of hinges
- 3 – drawer pulls
- 2 – 1” x 1” x 1/8” angle at 11”
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Side Frames
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 7-3/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3” x 16-1/2” – Kick Plate
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Stretcher
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Upper Shelf & Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 16-1/2” – Center Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 14”- Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-15/16” x 16-1/4” – Drawer Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/4” – Pullout
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 24-3/4” – Door Frame
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 11-1/4” – Door Frame
- 1 – ½” plywood at 11-1/4” x 19-3/4” – Door Panel
- 1 – 3-1/2” piece of trim at 18” – Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.
Attach the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel s should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.
Attach the side panel assemblies to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the kick plate and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the upper shelf & bottom. Drill pocket holes on the side edges, as well as the back edge. Attach to the side frames and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center shelf. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge. The shelf will be set back ¾” from the front edge of the cabinet.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. The front edge will overlap by 1”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the top edge of the back and side panels.
Step 5
Attach the angle inside above the upper shelf as shown using countersunk screws.
Cut the piece for the pullout. The pullout will rest on the metal angles.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the drawer assembly to the front as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. The drawer should be positioned so that there is a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces.
Cut the piece for the door panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the shorter door frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.
Attach the panel assembly to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the trim. Attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
Happy Thanksgiving to all of you from The Design Confidential Family! This year in particular I feel as though I have so much to be thankful for. Topping that list are the addition of baby bird Penn (yes that is what we named him, not sure I mentioned it) to our already wonderful little family, and all of you who hang out with us here each day! You make my world go round and I feel so very loved! I hope in the coming year, you all feel that same love and appreciation from us as well…beginning with a little early Holiday Celebration in the next week or so. Enjoy some time with family or friends on this most Thankful of Holidays… Xx Rayan
Plans
ATTENTION: We will be celebrating something fabulous the first week of December for a little early Holiday Appreciation of you all… Stay tuned for more details and be sure to check in daily for updates and instructions on particpating! I will be including details on our regularly scheduled posts (just like this),. You never know when something interesting will Pop Up, so be sure to check in often.
And now back to our regularly scheduled programming and Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an X Coffee Table – Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 2 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×12 at 4’
- 2 – 2’ x 4’ sheets of plywood
Materials
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/2” screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- 2” edge banding for edges of top
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×4 at 27” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 12-15/16” – Legs
- 2 – 2x4at 13-9/16” – Legs
- 2- 2×4 at 14-7/16” – Shelf Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 48” – Top
- 1 – 1×12 at 46” – Shelf
- 2 – 2×4 at 2-1/2” – Shelf Legs
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the bevels in the legs using a miter saw or jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the straight ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 2”pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Position as shown, then attach using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the legs into the ends of the supports.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the top. Spread glue over the face of one of the pieces and position the other on top. Wiggle the top piece to create suction then clamp together until dry. Attach the legs using toenailed screws through the ends of the legs into the top.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut a 45 deg. bevel along each long edge using a circular saw or table saw. Attach to the supports using glue and countersunk 1-1/2” screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelf legs. Drill pocket holes in one end of each piece. Attach to the underside of the shelf using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Sarah Shoe Storage
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 86” – Sides
- 9 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 25” – Shelves & Cubbies
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 76” – Dividers
- 2 – 1×2 at 25” – Trim
- 4 – 1×4 at 7-1/2” – Trim
- 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 26-1/2” x 77-1/2” – Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides and the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shelf pieces. Set seven of the shelf pieces off to the side for the cubbies. Attach the shelves to the sides at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the trim. Cut a fancy curve or design of your choice in the 1×4 pieces and attach to the 1×2 with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The face of the trim pieces will be flush with one of the edges of the 1×2.
Attach the trim assembly to the cabinet top and bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the notches in the shelves for the cubbies as shown with a jigsaw. Attach to the sides at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Attach to the cabinet with glue at the spacing indicated and add a few brad nails through the shelf into the dividers.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Can you believe how much they sell headboards for at the store? I think this project came in around $25 total including the paint…and a DIY ego boost (you don’t get that anyplace else!)
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Modifications
We used 1×6's instead of plywood.
Finishing Technique
Kona Brown Rustoleum Spray Paint
Design / Entertaining
While the temps here in N. California are still relatively mild, I am longing for those cool crisp mornings and the changing of the leaves to take over. There is truly no more beautiful season than fall with the variety of colors that nature brings about. Are you already experiencing fall temps? If so I’m jealous… I thought I would set the tone for some fabulous fall decor and celebration! Enjoy…
All Original Sources can be found Here along with a few other fabulous goodies that I may share at a later date…shhh don’t tell!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired Dutch Shipyard Media Cabinet *** Inspiration piece is constructed of metal ***
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 3’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 3/4” screws
- 3 – 1/8” x 3/4” angle at 6’
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 28” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 15” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 15” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×4 at 15” – Side Frames
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 28” x 60” – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 60” – Front Stretcher
- 1 – 1×4 at 60” – Front Stretcher
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 61-1/2” – Top & Shelf
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 23-3/4” – Dividers
- 12 – 1/8” x ¾” angle at 17-1/4” – Drawer & Pullout Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 22-1/8” – Pullouts
- 8 – ¾”plywood at 10” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Front & Back
- 8 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 16-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 16-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾”material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges of the back piece. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretchers should be flush with the front face of the legs.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches in each corner with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes on the underside and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the shelf will be flush with the top of the lower stretcher and frame pieces.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the dividers and cut a ¾” x ¾” notch at the top front edge of each piece. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches in each corner with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes on the underside and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the top will be flush with the top of the upper stretcher and frame pieces.
Step 7
Cut the pieces of angle using a hacksaw. Pre-drill holes in each piece and mount to the inside of the cabinet at the spacing shown using ¾” screws.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the pullouts and insert in the proper openings.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Cut the notch in each of the front pieces using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Chunky Leg King Bed Frame
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 4 – 1×10 at 8’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- Scrap of 2×4 measuring at least 1’
- 15 – 1×3 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- One set of keyhole bed brackets like these
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×10 (ripped to 8” wide ) at 78” – Head & Foot
- 4 – 1×2 at 5” – Head & Foot Legs
- 2 – 1×10 (ripped to 8” wide) at 81-1/2” – Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 81-1/2” – Slat Supports
- 4 – 1×2 at 4-1/2” – Side Legs
- 1 – 2×4 at 81-1/2” – Center Support
- 2 – 2×4 at 5-1/4” – Center Support Legs
- 15 – 1×3 at 76-1/2” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the head and foot plus the legs for each. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Attach the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The ends of each of the legs should be flush with the ends of the head and foot pieces.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides, as well as the slat supports and the legs. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach the legs in the same manner as the head and foot pieces. Attach the slat supports as shown (3/4” down from the top edge of the sides) using 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Attach the bed brackets according to the manufacturer’s instructions and assemble the bed frame.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the center support and the center support legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” pocket holes and drill holes in each end of the support as well as one end of each of the legs. Attach the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire center support assembly to the head and foot pieces using 2” pocket hole screws. Do not use glue – it may need to be disassembled some day!
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them so they are evenly spaced and attach to the slat supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I started out building the Rustic x-End Table but got frustrated with the Xs not fitting well so I left them off. I showed the unfinished table to a friend and she wanted it, but with some changes and additions that lets her use it outside near her pool. So the pics show the final result including the K she wanted in the center of the shelf.
I lined the shelf with glass tiles and a wooden K and grouted everything in. The glass tiles have a few of the blue and green hues you find in swimming pools, I hope.
The top is not glued down just in case the top boards begin to warp or crack and can be repaired. Of course at Restoration Hardware a warp, crack or knot just raises the price.
From a Plan I got on Ana-White.com: Rustic X-End Table
Estimated Cost
About $50. The tiles were $8 total and the letter $1.50. Add grout, polyurethane, screws, glue, paint, sandpaper and other stuff and you come close to $50.wood,
Length of Time
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours), Intermediate skill level
Finishing Technique
Top: Minwax Gunstock covered with three coats of Rust-oleum ultimate polyurethane. The shade may not be on cue as I first used a light oak shade and didn't like it so I just put the gunstock over it. I did use minwax wood conditioner but I am not sold on it. The instructions are frightening (Do Not Let Dry or Face the Consequences!) and I am not really sure it does what is advertised. Everyone make up your own mind. Rest of it: Two or three coats of Rust-oleum white satin enamel spray.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Low Wood Cutout King Headboard
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Router with flush cutting bit, optional
Lumber
- 5 – 2×4 at 8’
- 2 – sheets of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×4 at 42” – Legs
- 3 – 2×4 at 71” – Frame
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 34” x 78” – Front & Back Panels
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the panels. The panels can be cut out with a jigsaw before assembly then attached to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. It can also be attached to the frame first, then the opening can be cut out with a router and a flush cutting bit.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
