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Build
We all love our Kreg jigs, don’t we? Most of us (like me) do not enjoy filling the holes. We could buy pocket hole plugs but they can be quite pricey especially when you have a project with a lot of pocket holes to fill. An easy and extremely inexpensive way to fill the holes is to use a 3/8” dowel rod and a Japanese flush cut saw. Sure, you’ll have to spend the money on the saw up front but it really isn’t that expensive (Rockler has them for $7.99 here). Dowel rods can be purchased for less than $1.00 and one dowel will yield tons of plugs!
Put a couple drops of glue in the pocket hole. Insert the dowel (it may be a little snug so tap the end with a rubber mallet to get it seated in the hole completely).
Use the flush cut saw to cut away the excess dowel, making sure it is a little long.
In other words, cut it so that it is not completely flush with your project to keep from marring the wood with the saw. (Trust me, it happens – I do it all the time!)
Sand it so it is smooth and flush with your project.
That’s it – super easy, right??
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Small Media Console! We have several other pieces in this very fine collection coming down the pipeline too, aren’t you excited? I know I am… Xx Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 6 – 1×4 at 8’
- 2 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 2’
- One sheet of ½” plywood
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
- 8 – 1×4 at 38” – Side, Front, & Back Frames
- 2 – 1×4 at 20” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×4 at 13” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×2 at 13” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 8” x 13” – Side Panels
- 2 – ½” plywood at 13” x 17-1/2” – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×4 at 50” – Front & Back Frames
- 2 – 1×4 at 43” – Front & Back Frames
- 1 – ½” plywood at 27” x 43” – Back Panel
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 48-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – 1×2 at 43” – Front Frame
- 1 – 1×2 at 7-1/2” – Front Frame
- 3 – 1×2 at 20” – Side Slide & Top Supports
- 1 – 2×2 at 20” – Center Side Support
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 23-1/2” – Tops
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 18-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – 1×6 at 17-1/4” – Drawer Sides
- 2 – 1×6 at 19-3/4” – Drawer Backs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-5/16” – Doors
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece, the center frame piece, and the lower frame piece. Also, drill pocket holes in the outer edges of the legs to attach the front and back frames.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the side panel pieces to the horizontal pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and 1” pocket holes through the side panels into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the top frame pieces.
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece and the lower frame piece.
Cut the pieces for the back panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the back panel piece to the top and bottom pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and 1” pocket holes through the side panels into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the top frame pieces.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the front and back edges. Attach to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the bottom piece should be flush with the top of the lower frame pieces at the sides and back.
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes and assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the frame to the front using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side frames and bottom.
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Attach to the sides of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame as well as flush with the inside edge of the front frame.
Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 slide support. Attach to the front frame divider using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws and to the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the slide support will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame.
Cut the piece for the top support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes around all four edges. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside. The top face will be flush with the top edge of the front, back, and side frames.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom pieces as well as each end of the side pieces. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the front and back as shown. The drawer front will overlap the sides by 3/8”. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts. Install the cabinet hardware.
Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors as well as in the center. Install the hinges and the cabinet hardware.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Home
Happy New Year my friends! I hope you all had a fabulous night and celebrated the new year like rockstars, on my behalf. I am fairly certain I fell asleep well before midnight, BUT I was awake for the turning of the clock for EST (east coast time)… Too bad I live in the PST, but in truth I am still on NBT (newborn baby time) and will probably stay that way for several more months! Eek! I can't believe it's 2013, but I am super duper excited to see what this coming year has to offer. I feel so blessed for what 2012 brought, with a new baby and a crazy 5 year old, 2 dogs who finally like each other and a hubster who is adored by everyone (except me, I'm cranky when sleepless, grr).
In true DIY blogger fashion I had to at least try and cram in one crafty project with sparkle. I used Martha's tinsel New Year's Banner for 2011 as my inspiration, and just made my own number 3. Heck I even whipped out the old glue gun for this one (that baby had cobwebs on it, I swear it)
Home
Last year my family room acted as our Christmas headquarters (you can see that here), unlike this year for which my living room was definitely ground zero… Even though I didn't stage the occasion in the family room I still managed to get a few decorations up, thanks mostly to my partnership with The Home Depot and my seasonal crafty projects for them (see here and here)!
You can see that aside from the 2 trees from 2011, not a whole lot changed for this year in this room's holiday decor. I'm still loving the blue, and perhaps next year I might even get one of these fabulous trees up again! Penn will be 1 by then, so perhaps I will have time (not likely…)!
Showcase
I would like to comment on the cutting of the legs. I had to resort to using my circular saw and jig saw in combination. Not the smoothest operation but a lot of snading saved the day. I would like to see leg plans that produce the same final result but don't require a band saw to cut. I thought my method was not the safest and certainly not the most accurate.
Estimated Cost
For each chair:
- Legs $6 (I use fence posts that cost less than $3 for four feet and are perfectly square.)
- 2×4 $3
- 1×4 $5 , 1×3 and 1×2 scrap pile
- Paint, screws, glue and sandpaper maybe $8
- Total per chair $20 to $25
Length of Time
Chairs took two weekends and the desks a week of nights so the total build time was at least two weeks. Total actual time was about 40 hours. That may seem long but just the finishing takes a couple of days.
Finishing Technique
- MDF : I sealed the edges of the MDF with vinyl spackling to prevent water damage in the future. Applied and sanded smooth after it was dry. Then a good coat of oil-based spray primer.
- The rest I just used two coats of paint with primer. The brown you see is Valspar Ultra, the green is Behr Premium Plus, and the white is Behr Premium Plus.
- Before painting I sanded the entire project with 150 grit and then the exposed areas I took to 220 grit.
- I know that the desk and chairs will take a lot of abuse from the 8 and 10 year olds so I was not concerned with being perfect. I can fix the mars and scars as necessary.
Showcase
Estimated Cost
For each Desk
- 2×4 $9
- 2x4x3/4 MDF $12
- Plywood for shelving 2x2x3/4 $9
- Other lumber about $5 or free from scrap pile
- Paint (found in the garage), screws, sandpaper, and glue $10
- Total per Desk <$50
Lumber Used
MDF for the desk tops and off-the-shelf pine for the remainder.
Finishing Technique
- MDF : I sealed the edges of the MDF with vinyl spackling to prevent water damage in the future. Applied and sanded smooth after it was dry. Then a good coat of oil-based spray primer.
- The rest I just used two coats of paint with primer. The brown you see is Valspar Ultra, the green is Behr Premium Plus, and the white is Behr Premium Plus.
- Before painting I sanded the entire project with 150 grit and then the exposed areas I took to 220 grit.
- I know that the desk and chairs will take a lot of abuse from the 8 and 10 year olds so I was not concerned with being perfect. I can fix the mars and scars as necessary.
Home
Sooooo I didn't send out Holiday Cards this year 'in real life' so for all of you who were hoping to get one from us, a big I'm sorry in advance! A digital card of my gorgeous boys, a week late, will have to do…
By the way did I mention how hard it is to get a decent picture of a baby, while they are awake, and not laying flat? ya…hard… I finally had to settle on a solo shot with my hand in it, oh well. Baby Bird you did a marvelous job despite being a bit of a bobble head and having your mommy try and snag a picture of you before you toppled over 18 times in a row! Mommy loves you baby… you are such a good sport for this kind of torture Penn! High Fives…
Though honestly, it was my older boy Blake who was the toughest to nail down, as in squirming like his life depended on it. Every shot was a smear across the camera screen. What is it about 5 year old boys that means they can't hold still one bit? It was like I was speaking a foreign language to him, that his body couldn't handle… hold still, look at the camera, quit moving for 5 seconds… or not… even still I managed to get a couple of cute pictures, but just barely! I consider myself lucky (and grateful) for what I got! Life is certainly never dull with 2 boys!
These pictures were snapped on Christmas Eve this year and I could just die a little for how cute Blake is with Penn. He absolutely adores him and calls him 'cutesy'. Everyone expected a bit of jealousy or some sort of negative reaction perhaps to having another star to share the spotlight with, but in all honesty it hasn't reared it's ugly head just yet (fingers crossed it stays that way). Having a new baby for Christmas this year, made this such a special holiday season for me… I hope you all had a wonderful holiday as well! Hugs from the Turner Fam!
Home
Last year I didn't put up my standard big tree in the living room, because I simply didn't have time. I was frantic the entire month of November preparing for a live tv segment I was doing, for my local News 10 channel. Throw in the actual holidays themselves (Thanksgiving hosted at my house) and my monster mash boy Blake's birthday (also at my house) and you have one frazzled mommy blogger on crack. Ya true story…
The segment I did was on budget friendly holiday decor and I created 3 mini trees each decorated in a different color scheme. Once the segment aired I was so burned out on holiday decor that I quite literally brought the trees home and plopped them on my dining room table… all 3 of them… and I ended up loving the mini tree on the table set up so much I repeated it this year for no other reason than that I wouldn't have to rearrange furniture to fit the ginormous tree of yesteryear! yahoo…
This mini tree in shades of green is what we used for our main tree and where I put all of our family gifts. Of course I am neurotic about my decor so all of the gift wrap matches the tree… I even used a few unconventional items for wrapping this year including an old map and some fabulous printed wrapping paper I found here. It really brought the whole spread together nicely, which you can see in the images, and gave the gifts some fabulous visual interest. yay…
Stay tuned for more holiday decor from this year to come, and my holiday card to all of you (late of course)… what can I say…
Being a brand new mommy of 2 boys has put my schedule so far behind that it will very likely take me until the end of the first week, of the new year, to finish sharing all of our Christmas adventures, but hopefully you don't hold it against me. #newbornbabymamadrama
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Olivia Modular Components – Organizer! We have the plans for the bench and the lockers, and now the organizer yahoo!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 3 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 2 – 1×6 at 6’
- 1 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood, if desired
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 15” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 51-1/4” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 51-1/4” – Top & Bottom
- 3 – 1×2 at 12-1/2” – Bottom Supports
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12-1/2” – Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 16”- Shelves
- 3 – ½” plywood at 7-1/2” x 12-1/2”- Letter Dividers
- 2 – 1×2 at 51-1/4” – Front Aprons
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 14-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – 1×3 at 11” – Small Drawer Sides
- 2 – 1×3 at 15-3/4” – Small Drawer Front & Back
- 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-7/8” wide) at 11” – Large Drawer Sides
- 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-7/8” wide) at 15-3/4” – Large Drawer Front & Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position the bottom ¾” up from the bottom edge of the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Attach as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The dividers will be ¾” shorter than the sides.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the letter dividers. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the dividers as well as through the shelf into the dividers.
Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Also use pocket hole screws through the holes in the top of the dividers into the underside of the top.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the front aprons. Attach to the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Attach the sides to the bottoms using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the front and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. There are no drawer slides so to make the drawers slide easily in the openings, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawer as well as on each shelf.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
Well we did it… we wrapped up our Really Big Holiday Giveaway with complete and utter success! I hope you all enjoyed that as much as I did! So fun…
I thought that since we are celebrating our 3rd year here at TDC, that perhaps it is high time we change things up a bit and get a bit more personal around these parts. I have a few things I have been wanting to do, and a new year of blogging fun is the perfect excuse to get down to business and start checking things off the list! I feel like saying things out loud and putting them in print will give me a bit more pressure to actually make these things happen, so I am going to make a quick list of some of those goals and items I hope to accomplish for the year ahead…
Ok here goes…
- I want to share more about myself, my family and the happenings around our home – after all you guys have never even seen Mr. TDC! eek…
- Complete more home decor projects around my own home – start walking the walk rather than talking the talk.
- Round out my content and bring back former columns that I have let fall by the wayside – make this a bit more of a well rounded lifestyle blog rather than only a DIY blog
- Style Files
- Retail Therapy
- The Artist Inside
- Color Connection
- Lust List
- Holiday Celebrate
- Kiddo Kunundrums (ya I just made that one up… I needed something clever that went with the word Kiddo)
- DIY + Project Roundups
- Purchase One Pretty Thing for my home each month and share that as a new column
- Post twice a day rather than just once.
- Post more plans and more showcases.
- Share amazingness from around the interwebs…after all I am completely inspired on a daily basis, and why not celebrate that fact!
- Spend more time interacting with all of you on social media outlets (FB, Twitter, G+, Instagram, etc)
- Create more video content
- Get the forum working properly and thriving for sharing, project requests and questions etc…
- Make our FB page a fully interactive experience where all of you feel comfortable posting questions!!!
- Create and mediate a community on G+ for building and all things DIY related!
- Bring on additional talent here at TDC for other areas of design (graphics, photography, crafting, etc)… holla if this is you!
Ok that is all I can think of at the moment… now that I blathered on forever…
Psst…I would love to know if there are things you would like to see here as well, afterall you are all the stars of this show and what you guys ultimately want, matters most!
Plans
We covered the bench plans here, and now the Locker Component that goes with… Oh I just love mix and match! Xx Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 1 sheets of ¾” plywood
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood, if desired
- One set of hinges
- One cabinet pull or handle
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 66-3/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 66-3/4” – Back
- 5 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 18-1/2” – Top & Shelves
- 2 – 1×2 at 63-1/2” – Door Frame
- 3 – 1×2 at 15-1/4” – Door Frame
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 19” – Door Panel
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 19-1/2” – Door Panel
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the top and shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position the bottom ¾” up from the bottom edge of the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Each piece will be set back ¾” from the front edge.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Attach to the top and bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1×2 pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood pieces. Attach the shorter pieces to the plywood first using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the longer frame pieces. Install the hinges and make any necessary adjustments.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase / Uncat
I needed a larger bedside table but needed inspiration. That came in the form of the beautiful striped table built by Cher. I just downsized it by trying to make the bedside table top copy Cher's creation. I came close but nothing as beautiful.
Then I ran across the Brina table on Old Paint Design.
With a couple of size adjustments I built what you see. My first time adding drawer slides but they seemed to work ok and the stain was a little difficult to get right but I think with time my table will develop a nice patina and character,
The top is not glued to the base just held on with nine 11/4″ screws through the top supports.
Estimated Cost
Oak for the top was free
Legs $8 (I use 2×2 fence posts that cost $2 for 3 feet)
Plywood $11 (Didn't need as much as the plan because I had wood for the top)
The Rest about $10
Stain $6
So a total of about $35 plus screws and glue
Length of Time
This table took a really long time….It took a lot of pre-thinking actions to avoid costly mistakes.
The top took me a week of evenings. The table itself took another week of evenings. Then add two days for finishing and you are approaching three weeks of evenings.
We should never underestimate how long a project really takes. You can build the box in a few hours but the pre-planning, care, and finishing can add days to any project.
Lumber Used
Oak for the top
Pine for the remainder including sanded pine plywood for the sides and floor.
Finishing Technique
Ok the top was stained with Minwax Ebony, Cherry, Mahogany, and Oak. Each board individually before constructing the top.
The base is Rustoleum Kona. Several coats. I also used pre-conditioner but it still has some blotchy and uneven spots. As I said before with time the table will gain its personal patina and character.
