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Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Cube. Perfect with the other pieces in the Modular Family collection!!!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- Scrap of 1×4 at 14-1/2”
- 1 full sheet of ¾”plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- One set of hinges
- Cabinet pull or handle
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 22-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 15” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 18” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 16” – Top
- 1 – 1×4 at 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 17-3/4” – Door
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edges of the sides, as well as the longer edges of the bottom. Position as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides and back into the underside of the top.
Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening. Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull or handle.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Uncat
A little switcheroo makes everything new, but it doesn’t necessarily mean I like it…. I will say it’s an improvement over the last option, seen here. In truth, both paintings are fine, and I really only dislike these options because I have this idea in my mind about how this space should feel and look, and this isn’t it. This vintage landscape is wonderful and I love everything about it. It’s definitely closer to that ideal than the pixelated art given the colors, but it isn’t quite there yet. Back to the drawing board for now, but in the meantime it will make a very fine placeholder, no?
How about you guys… any artistic musical chairs going on in your spaces? Are you as indecisive as I currently am? Nothing like a little rearranging to give a space a whole new feel!
Showcase
I built this because I couldn't find a dresser that would last more than a year. Oh and this was my first dresser I have ever built. Next is the end tables and bed frame.
Estimated Cost
The cost is close to 350.00 in material. The slides were upgraded to the full extension ones, they alone were over 100.00. I thought the cheap ones took away from the piece.
Length of Time
It took me about four weekends to complete. I worked about 3-4 hours every weekend.
Lumber Used
The wood is Poplar especially the drawer fronts, legs and drawer dividers. The sides, top, and shelf are birch plywood.
Finishing Technique
The finish is black satain oil base paint two coats
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bridge. Yay, moving right along through this collection! We already covered the bench and lockers for this modular family, and today the bridge!
Of course the whole collection can be configured any way you like…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 full sheet of ¾”plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 47-1/2” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 15” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 47-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 46” – Divider Box Top & Bottom
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 14-1/4” – Dividers
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the box. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the sides. Assemble as shown and attach the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides, top, and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the divider box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter dividers. Position as shown and secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Insert the divider box into the bridge box and secure using 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Last Monday I was asked by a nice lady living in an assisted living home (very nice one) if I could build her a table to put under her window. She whipped out the LL Bean catalog and on page 34 she pointed to the underwindow bookshelf. I told her I would give it a try. Well it came out larger than the LL Bean version as mine is 44″ long, 28″ high and 14 ” wide. You can see it at this link: http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/13930?feat=504183-GN3&page=mission-under-…
I think it came out looking pretty good. Especially when you consider it cost at least $100 less than the catalog version and is not a kit.
Estimated Cost
Here is a breakdown of the cost:
Stain, Oil Finish, Poly : $15
Screws, Sandpaper, rags, glue, misc: $10
Project Boards for shelves and top quality board for the top: $43
Legs: $8
Stretchers, vertical dividers: $22
For a total of $99 and that includes tax.
Length of Time
Two afternoons to collect the lumber and build the table. Three days to complete the finish. So total time figure 5 days.
Lumber Used
For the top, end and top and front top stretchers and vertical dividers I used the extra cost pine. The legs are the standard fence 2x2s. The rest is project boards and regular cost pine. For this build I should have spent the extra money and bought the extra cost pine, but live and learn. It probably would have added another $20 to the cost that was already over $90.
Finishing Technique
The build went fine and I think the result is great. However the stain was a problem. The different grades and types of wood resulted in varying results even though I did use a pre-conditioner. The basic stain was Rust-Oleum Ultimate Golden Mahogany with a little Rust-Oleum Kona mixed in to darken it a bit. I put two coats of Rust-Oleum Ultimate Polyurethane on the top and the remainder of the build was finished with two coats of Minwax Antique Oil finish. The oil finish did remove some of my displeasure with the stain result.
I had some stray corner protectors that I added at the end of the build and finishing.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bench. We covered the plans for the locker unit here, and now the bench! You can see down below how this lovely modular family actually looks when it’s all completed!!! It’s fab, right?
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 3’
- 2 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 full sheet of ¾”plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- One pair of 16” drawer slides
- Cabinet knob or pull
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 35-1/2” – Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 16-3/4” – Seat Supports
- 1 – 1×6 at 45-1/2”- Back Stretcher
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 45-1/2” – Seat
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 45-1/2” – Back
- 2 – 1×6 at 11-3/4” – Front Aprons
- 2 – 1×6 at 16-3/4” – Drawer Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 16” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – 1×6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 21” – Drawer Back
- 1 – 1×6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 21-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Maintain the dimensions as shown when cutting the curves. The curve at the back is optional and can be made by drawing a line 1” in from the back edge, marking the center of that line, then drawing lines from the center to the back corners. Cut out with a jigsaw.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the seat. The front of the seat will overlap by ½”. Secure to the supports and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or countersunk screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge as show. Position the back so it rests on the seat and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the front aprons and drawer supports. Drill pocket holes in one end of each apron pieces, as well as each end of the drawer supports. Assemble as shown, then attach to the sides and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8″ on each side.
Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Attach the cabinet pull or handle if desired.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Studio
Those cords dangling down make me cringe, just looking at them… It’s one of the most nagging tasks on my ‘to-do list’ this year. Truthfully, my homeward bound tasks far outnumber the hours in a day and the weeks in a year, but I plan on tackling as many as I can, one project at a time.
Does the New Year put things in perspective for you? It sure does for me, and shedding off the old year makes my need to refine, fix, and perfect only that much greater. If I were to share EVERY project on my ‘get er done’ list with you, this would be a very long article indeed, so I thought I might share some of my most pressing project needs for my Master Bedroom, with all of you!
You see I spend most of my time in my room. The baby sleeps in here with us, my monster mash boy plays in here, I work in here… in other words, we basically only leave to gather food and drink and promptly return to this space. When there are projects that need doing in this particular place, they have a way of staring you down, day in and day out until someone decides to pull the plug and tackle the job. This of coure usually means me since the mister is rarely home and when he is he could care less about unruly cords and a headboard.
In all the excitement around these parts lately I haven’t mentioned that I got myself a new bed… a bigger bed, which means my gorgeous hand built bed of yore no longer works…. Also because I am currently without a footboard, my sheets continuously slide down toward the end of the bed, which is maddening I tell you. I have got to get going on a new replacement and soon before I completely lose my mind!
This wall, poor lonely thing that it is, needs some serious TLC. A few of you may have already noticed a few changes that have taken place here, but in all honesty I am feeling like it’s back to the drawing board and none of those changes will stay! Eek!
This project was completed almost a year ago when I originally began working on my Master and then promptly began having morning sickness…ugh. I was working with a budget back then and even though I am still working on a budget, I plan to upgrade this wall a tad to reflect my original plans more closely.
I have a lot to work on in this one single solitary space, so if you can imagine that EVERY room in my house needs this much lovin’ you might be able to fathom the number of projects that actually need to happen this year. It’s enough to make you gag on your lunch, but it should be a good time trying to actually do a few of these and I can tell you it will be a much easier job well done with all the proper tools… Like this set for example. Can I get a yahoo for interchangeable Lithium Ion batteries? YAHOO!!!
And how would you like to win one of these sets for yourself?? Oh you would?? Fabulous, read further for instructions!!! But first a few quick thoughts about RYOBI Nation and the RYOBI ONE+ technology!
- RYOBI Nation is an online destination for power tool and DIY enthusiasts to share photos of their project successes, vote on their favorite projects for the opportunity to win prizes and have access to special offers on Ryobi power tools.
- The RYOBI ONE+ system offers more versatility, value and performance for DIYers and pros on a budget. The Home Depot has over 50 Ryobi products that are compatible with the Ryobi ONE+ Lithium Ion battery. Drills, saws, outdoor power tools and other types of tools all use the ONE+ battery.
- Perfect for any DIYer, the RYOBI18V ONE+ Lithium Ion Compact Drill Kit features the latest in power tool technology. Weighing less than three pounds, the RYOBI One+ Compact Drill Kit is easy for users of any strength or skill level to use.
One of the entry options below is to upload a project to RYOBI Nation which I highly recommend since they offer monthly contests for amazing prizes! I joined and uploaded a project too, you can see my page down below! If you wanted to vote for my project you could.. hint hint!
The Home Depot Disclosure Statement
The Home Depot partnered with bloggers such as me to help promote their Lithium Ion power tool collection. As part of this promotion, I received compensation for my time. They did not tell me what to purchase or what to say about the products. The Home Depot believes that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. The Home Depot’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Secretary Desk! I absolutely love the patchwork pieces from West Elm, so this is heavily inspired by that…allegedly…
Stay tuned because later we will be back with a fun giveaway and a little resolution inspiration!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
- Scrap of 2×2 measuring approximately 18”
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 3 sets of Ball bearing drawer slides(like these)
- 2 sets of roller drawer slides (like these)
- 2 sets of hinges
- One set of drop-down front supports (like these)
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- 5 cabinet pulls
- ne magnetic catch
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 15” – Base Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 44” – Base Frame
- 3 – 1×2 at 16-1/2” – Base Frame Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 47” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 45” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 45” x 45-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 45” – Center Divider
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 24-3/4” – Drawer Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 24-3/4” – Shelf
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 20” – Fixed Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 19” – Slide-Out Shelves
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 22-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Sides
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 23-3/4” – Drawer Backs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 24-1/2” – Small Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 24-1/2” – Large Drawer Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Desk Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 44-3/4” – Door
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the base frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the top into the frame.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the center divider. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes previously drilled in the sides, divider, and back.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the fixed shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the pull-out shelves. These shelves will use the roller drawer slides in order to make them moveable. The position is up to you… The upper pull-out shelf can be used for a printer so the height of the printer will have to measured before the shelf can be installed. Mark the position and install the slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer boxes by 3/8”. Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the larger door, then secure the hinges to the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.
Install the hinges on the bottom of the door used as the desktop. Install the drop down supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments. Install the magnetic catch at the top of the opening to keep the door closed when not in use. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.
Install the cabinet pulls.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Lockers
***Single locker requires 2 sheets of plywood. If building two lockers, a total of three sheets will be required (there will be enough of the second sheet left over to create parts for the second locker).***
You can see above how these pieces will work together once you build a few! Any configuration you want will be fabulous!!!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- Scrap of 1×4 at 14-1/2”
- 2 full sheets of ¾”plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- One set of hinges
- Cabinet pull or handle
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 67-3/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 15” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 63-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 16” – Top
- 1 – 1×4 at 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 63-1/4” – Door
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site. Always make sure you buy easy to assemble furniture
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edges of the sides, as well as the longer edges of the bottom. Position as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides and back into the underside of the top.
Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket hole in each end. The shelves will be positioned ¾” back from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening. Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull or handle.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
My wife and I built this.
Estimated Cost
Closer to $300 when all was said and done.
Modifications
We swapped the drawers for swinging panels so that we could use it as a tv credenza.
Home
I shared Penn’s 1 month photos with you here, and now we are back with his 2 month old photos for the month of December! Yay, this baby isn’t as far behind as the last one! Perhaps I’m stepping up my game a bit? Probably not.. I chose this first picture as the all around ‘winner’ of the bunch once again because like in his first photo shoot it has all of the typical components you might look for in a newborn shoot: he’s facing the camera, no blurry body parts and his props are perfectly poised (translation = his hat isn’t weird or wonky). Again I am no photographer so these shots could all be 100 times better, but I do think my skills at getting him to cooperate improved a tad over his first month… or he was simply a tad older and wiser in his second month… who knows?
I love his body position in this photo with his little wise seeming chin to hand thing, it’s quite Rodin… And those little crossed legs = to die for! But his hat wasn’t following directions and looks just plain ridiculous so boo…
This one, once again the least perfect in composition because the poor creature looks a tad like he’s on a runaway sleigh ride down a hill, is my absolutely fave! His little face and body are the absolutely mostest… adore!
The ‘best’ of his monthly photos, side by side, so I can see how much older he looks for the second month… I hope he stays little forever, but since he won’t at least I will have these lovely keepsakes to mark his growth!
Of course I couldn’t end this post without the montage of my favorites, side by side as well. My little angel baby…
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with a Single Glass Door. We have covered quite a few pieces in this collection so far! Somehow I let this baby slide by unpublished, eek!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Router with 3/8” rabbeting bit
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
- One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- One set of hinges
- One door pull
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20-1/4” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 25-3/8” – Door Frame
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10” – Door Frame
- 1 – 3-1/2” trim at 16” – Front Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the door frame. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, rout the inside of the door frame (on the back) to allow for the glass.
Another option for attaching the glass would be to use glass clips to secure the glass to the back of the door frame (with no rabbet) but the shelves will need to be shortened to allow for the thickness of the glass and the clips.
Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
