Uncat

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ellsworth Entertaining Cabinet

02.27.13
Project Image

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Ellsworth Entertaining Cabinet! This piece has great lines and will satisfy the antique or vintage lovers of you, out there! A Modern build for the furniture lovers of a bygone era!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
  • One quarter sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for exposed edges of plywood
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 42” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 42” x 46-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 21” x 46-1/2” – Bottom & Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” 27-1/4” – Front Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x  41-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x  41-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 46-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 48” – Front Apron
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 46-1/2” – Upper Shelf
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 15-9/16” – Door Frame
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 21” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 15-9/16” x 16” – Door Panels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Maintaining the dimensions shown, cut the curves using a jigsaw.

Step 2
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Cut the curve in the bottom as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the bottom. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shelf and bottom will be positioned ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 4
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the horizontal pieces. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the front of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the top to the top of the frame using 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the front apron. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 7

Cut the piece for the upper shelf. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Attach the shorter frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame pieces. Attach the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door as well as in between the two. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Home / Shopping

On The Hunt For Curtains

02.26.13
Project Image

I have been on the hunt for curtains to hang in the master bedroom for more than a year! Actually I suppose it’s truly been closer to 3 years, eek! You see for the first 2 years in this house I simply didn’t know which direction I wanted to head with my decor in the master, and for the last year I haven’t been able to find something I loved to match my planned design (which you can see here). Gray, white, black, yellow, or beige and perhaps something graphic yet not to overstated. Maybe a stripe, maybe a whimsical pattern…I just don’t know where to go and I don’t love anything I see online. If I love it, it’s the wrong color, and if it’s the right color, the price is horrendous… This is just not working out as easily as I want it to. You can see some of the options I like in this post, but simply don’t knock my socks off or aren’t available in a color that works for this room.

I am no stranger to making curtains as you may remember from here, here and here, but I can’t even decide on something I want to make. Which colors and what kind of pattern or design? I am absolutely bored to death with most of the stencil options and patterns and I am in desperate need of something completely new and different. Something that makes me do the happy dance…

I’m thinking the perfect answer will be some fun fabric option that I simply cut to length and hem… so now I’m on the hunt for the perfect fabric…

Have you been on the lookout for curtains too? Do you have some good suggestions for me? Maybe you found some curtains that knock your socks off for an affordable price or perhaps a fun fabric you like that would translate well in this space?

1 | 2 | 3 | 4

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Design Workshop Divided Box Component

02.25.13
Project Image

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Design Workshop Divided Box Component! These components are designed to work with steel shelving standards and brackets similar to these where screws can be inserted through the bottom of the bracket into the component.

I truly can’t wait to see who builds this first and how they arrange their collection!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • One full sheet of ¾” plywood (mainly for the length)
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Screws to go through the bracket into the component – length will vary
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 63” – Top & Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 17-1/4” – Sides
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom edges only of the divider pieces. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Design / Uncat

Style Files: Currently Crushing On Herringbone Floors

02.23.13
Project Image

I have loved herringbone floors for as long as I can remember… there is something about them that resonates with my former life as a stylish parisian, at least the former life I wish I had… it’s modern and vintage all at the same time and that is, without doubt, my favorite kind of design. Given the difficulty we had laying down flooring here, and coming up with the pattern, herringbone seems like it would actually be easier and so much more fun and rewarding. The next time I take on a flooring project, you can bet this style will be on my short list…

Also a quick sidebar… I have started a tumblr site! If you have any desire to follow along for gorgeous inspiration, feel free! It’s one portion of my plan for Finding my True Design North, which I will share with you all soon!

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11

Showcase

A Little Wild & Crazy Table

02.23.13
Project Image

I suggested a few weeks ago that we try something a little different than our normal table and suggested a table I found at Village Lane Furniture.  Here is the link:  http://villagelanefurniture.com/blog/tables-and-stands/

The center prism seems to just float between the top and the base.

Following is a sequence of photographs that chronicle the build. I built the table without any dimensions to go on so the result is my best guess. I would only change the height of the center prism to allow for more flexibility in feet selection.

Estimated Cost

This was an experiment but is was not too expensive.  I don’t think I spent more than $30 on it.

Length of Time

The build took a really long time probably 20 to 30 hours.  That is only because I needed to be very careful about the order in which I built the components of the table and the size and proportions.  Also staining takes forever….

Lumber Used

It is all pine.

Finishing Technique

Sanding every component down to at least 220 grit and the top to 400 grit.  Between sandings I cleaned with mineral spirits.  I used Rust-Oleum Summer Oak and Kona stains and then covered the stain with polyurethane.

Final height 25″

Feet from Hobby Lobby.

I used only screws to attach the base and top. No glue.

The idea came from Village Lane Furniture.

Home

My Week in Pictures February 8 2013

02.22.13
Project Image

It’s been a busy couple of weeks here at the House of TDC complete with a treasure hunt at the local flea market and Valentine’s Day, yay! If you follow along with me on Instagram you have seen many of these pictures already, but for the rest of you, this is a little peak inside the day to day stuff with sneak peaks of projects and a little home life love too!

To view past weeks, click here!

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Bench

02.22.13
Project Image

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Bench! I love the simplicity this piece has without lacking style! It would be a fabulous addition to homes with any number of styles!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2×2 at 6’
  • 9 – 1×2 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2×2 at 4 – 2×2 at 18” – Legs
  • 8 – 1×2 at 12” – Side Frames & Seat Frame
  • 4 – 1×2 at 56-1/2” – Upper Stretchers & Seat Frame
  • 3 – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2×2 at 58” – Lower Stretcher
  • 16 – 1×2 at 17-3/4” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1×2 at 18” – Seat Slats (Center)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw, bandsaw, or tapering jig on the table saw. The angled side of the legs will face toward the longer sides.

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher. Secure to the lower side frame pieces using glue and countersunk 2” screws from the outside of the lower frame pieces.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat. Drill pocket holes as shown. Also, drill pocket holes along one edge of the outer slat pieces as noted to attach the longer trim pieces. (These pocket holes are not shown.)

Position the seat on the frame and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat pieces into the stretchers and supports.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Showcase

Builders Showcase: Corner Sawhorse Shelf

02.21.13
Project Image

Estimated Cost 

Materials if I had to purchase today;
2-1X8X8 (few knots for character)
2-1X6X8 (few knots for character)
1-qt wood conditioner
1-qt stain
1-qt poly
1-box #8 1 1/4″ screws
1-small Gorilla glue
 asst. sandpaper
$70 give or take

Length of Time 

As I am also working in my office and did not devote all the time necessary to complete in one swoop the unit was completed over a period of a month.  Looking back I would have to say if you did not have to do re-engineering, had the correct tools and did have the time it would take between 12 and 15 hours to complete. (drying time included)

Finishing Technique 

Finish was; Minwax wood conditioner 1 coat, Minwax Special Walnut 2 coats, 2 coats Minwax satin polyurethane, our baseboards and beams all the same color. (color suit to match)

All pieces were sanded using first 220 grit then 400, dust blown off all pieces (don't use tack cloth!  It has a wax that will fill in the wood pores) Minwax conditioner (not always necessary) used then 2 coats of Special Walnut applied wiped and set to dry. (2 coats of poly added after stain dried).

The top of the 80/90 degrees wedges, was 7/8″ not 13/16

Back legs; 1-1X3X72, 1-1X2.25X72 you have to make an allowance for wood overlap in order for shelves to be 90degrees at rear and flush at the front.

Start with front legs measuring be at 74″ (trimmed out due to slope in our floor, if floor is level use a square on unit bottom to align and trim if necessary)

Added top shelf instead of rounding corners (more room for wife's nick-nacks)

I drilled and attached side rails to one side, then using the first side as a pattern I built the 2nd one (remember the 3/4ths inch difference when aligning, align fronts). I used Gorilla glue and clamped as I do not own a Kreg unfortunately.  Use extra 90/80 degree scrap blocks to attach the clamps. 

Once ready I aligned and clamped the two sections, drilled using a counter sink bit and attached together with screws.  It was at this point I trimmed the front legs.  Measurements for the 5 shelves were made and re-checked, 1/4th inch depth was added to the fronts for insurance.  Having extra pine I glued and clamped pieces together, plywood would have been easier but much more expensive plus had to add a pine front piece to make them look good.

I have a small Tablesaw which made the 80degree front angles very difficult to cut.  I managed the first three with no problem  The last, three I attached to the back pieces and using a straight edge marked the shelf tops and bottoms. (due to the angled front pieces on the frame)  Using the straight edge again, I clamped each shelf for the offset of my circular saw and set the angle for 80 degrees. (watch out there is a difference between a right hand and a left hand saw) as to which side to cut from, use a piece of scrap!

The shelves were clamped in place and aligned with the rails.  Holes drilled and counter sunk through the side pieces and into the shelves. (not attached yet)

Once dry each shelf piece was carefully placed from top down, screwed to the sides. (did not glue)

Once again, not having a Kreg, I made plugs for the rear holes and inserted them.(not really necessary for functionality or looks as the back faces the wall)

Design

Style Files: Jonathan Adler's Classic Foundation Playful Punctuation

02.20.13
Project Image

Classic Foundation, Playful Punctuation is more than just a whimsical saying, it's the mantra of famed designer Jonathan Adler and a pretty smart M.O. at that. Now his philosophy is more of a description of his style, rather than an ideal, in that his basic foundation is that of classic design pieces with modern playful elements and a retro throwback twist layered on top. But there is something fabulous to be gleaned from this idea, aside from the fun and fabulousness of his style of course, and that is one very smart philosophy to live and design by. Think about it… by making your foundation pieces classic or timeless even, you can change out your accessories on a whim and without major cost. That is the basic sensibility of investing in pieces you may never tire of as the foundation of your home decor to be built upon by adding layers of fun on top. Love it… 

Check out some Jonathan Adler inspired rooms here and then visit the Look Book for more! I have partnered with HomeSav to bring you this deliciousness and I think you will enjoy this fun and playful smattering of decor and ideas!

All images courtesy of Jonathan Adler

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jonathan Adler Inspired Sawhorse Dining Table

02.20.13
Project Image

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jonathan Adler Inspired Sawhorse Dining Table! Those of you who follow along on the FB Fanpage already know that this week I have teemed up with HomeSav to bring you a Look Book filled with Jonathan Adler style! And what better way to celebrate that style than to bring you a fresh new set of plans for a table of his that is no longer available but still oh so glorious… Yahoo… Xx…Rayan!

Estimated Cost 

$50-$75

Dimensions 
Dimensions for This Project

Tools 
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber 
  • 4 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials 
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List 
  • 8 – 1×2 at 30-5/16” – Legs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 12-7/8” – Leg Base
  • 2 – 1×2 at 26-1/2” – Leg Lower Stretcher
  • 6 – 1×3 at 26-1/2” – Leg Stretchers, Top Frame & Supports
  • 2 – 1×3 at 55-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 36” x 96” – Top
Instructions 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Step 1 

Cut the pieces for the sawhorse legs and base. Cut the angles at the measurements shown – note that the angles are not cut at 45 degrees! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Step 2 

Cut the pieces for the sawhorse stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower stretcher will be centered on the sawhorse base with the pocket holes facing down.

Step 3
Step 3

Step 3 

Cut the pieces for the table top, top frame and supports. If using edge banding, it will be applied to the edges of the top before assembly. Drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece (to attach to the top) as well as each end of two of the shorter pieces to make the frame. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame and supports  to the bottom of the table top at the dimensions shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Step 4 

Place the table top on the sawhorses with the upper stretchers fitting into the space between the frame and supports. Secure the sawhorses in place using 2” screws through the inside of the frame

Finishing Instructions 

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Showcase

Builders Showcase: Vintage Fir Queen Platform

02.19.13
Project Image

Instead of 2X4's, I used 1X3's. To dress it up a bit, I took 2 1/2″ carriage bolts, and using my dremel, cut a pattern on them. Then spray painted them Copper.
I really love this bed. 

Hope you enjoy the results as much as I enjoyed playing!

So, I went and got 2 new side Perimiter 2X8's, and had them cut to 82″ which was a perfect fit for my Queen Mattress. 

You can see below that the cuts I had done at the Big Box store aren't exactly square. I should have filled in with putty, but I am not going to worry about it. 
Honestly, I am anxious to get off of the coouch…LOL

Laid out my wood, drilled my Kreg joints, Center support & cleats & Slats in. 

You can see in the first pic below that I had my Miniature Schnauzer Bella helping.

Finishing Technique 

Used Minwax “Ebony”. Only one coat. It is dark enough, and still shows the beautiful grain.
I will put on 2 coats of Polyurethane.