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Since the Bird is nearing his 5th monthly birthday I figured I should actually share his monthly photos for February! Always behind… always…
I began this month's palette with a little black and gold, you know, to keep it manly… then threw in some pale pink to keep things lovey dovey for the heart shaped holiday! This first shot is my favorite and his best with that huge smile happening! Love him…
The side by side collage of his 'best' monthly photos so you can see how he has grown… double triple love him. This is going by way to fast…
The shot above is fabulous because it shows you all what was going on 'behind the scenes' if you will. He is a motor boating expert and bubble blowing genius I tell you. I have NEVER seen so much spitting going on in a four month old. It must mean he is extra special, don't you think? Ha! Not to mention he is in full on teething mode, so when it's not motor boating it's just plain drool. It's been wet around here folks… eek!
A fabulous collage of all of my favorite shots. Most of these are either a bit funny (his runaway sled pose in December for example) or very indicative of his personality and current to that month's behaviors (drooling, arm posing, etc).
To see the other monthly photos, click here.
Home / Studio
This project is brought to you by Kleenex, all styling, neurotic issues and seasonal sinuses are 100% my own.
Once the winter holidays are behind me and spring is in the air, I crave change and organization like crazy. I have been in this house for nearly a year and it’s taken me that entire time to find the perfect nightstands. I mentioned this here when I shared my other unlikely nightstand with you guys, two weeks ago! I have big… no… huge, plans for my bed and somehow regular nightstands just didn’t seem like the right choice in this space. I happen to prefer a bit of a taller nightstand because I think it’s a more comfortable reach when you are laying down or sitting in bed, and makes sense for my lifestyle, which happens to involve a lot of time in this space. Since I work from home, that also means a lot of hours logged working in this space, so a desk is perhaps the perfect solution for my side of the bed.
I like to style for a space according to how I actually live in it and how I use a space dictates the decor quite a bit. It will drive me nuts if the things I constantly use and need easy access to, don’t have a place to ‘live’. If some of those things are unsightly, they need a box or a drawer, even a tray will work to hide them from sight most of the time. I am actually neurotic about this in my own little head and it will bug me to no end until I find the perfect solution. A solution that doesn’t require I work overtime to keep an area looking beautiful and orderly and will allow me to actually use it, at the same time. But let me be clear, I am not by nature a crazy cleaning lady. In fact, I am perhaps a great organizer by nature, but absolutely horrible at keeping things clean, hence the need for a solution that makes things easy for me and still looks good, because after all vanity is such a huge part of the equation for me… kidding.
Toys are inevitable… no matter how hard I try to keep toys in a particular spot, they just keep creeping back in like the plague. A large basket is perfect for them and can hold throw pillows that are really only for decoration and not technically for sleeping. The other option is launching them onto the floor or the couch before I settle in for bed. I’m thinking the basket is the better of the two. The drawer of the desk stores lotions and creams that I need for my hands and for diaper changing since much of that happens here as well. It also hides the remotes, notepads, pens and my iPad so that I can work (or not work) without the bird going nuts for any of those things, since he is absolutely obsessed with each and every one of them and is now a master button pusher and learning how to color and throw, sometimes simultaneously! Eek. The faux snakeskin box holds pictures, drawings and cute little memory keepsakes that I don’t want tiny little hands getting into but need to regularly add to as they happen. It helps me to keep their ‘home’ close at hand so I don’t set these things in another spot with the intention of putting them away later… and then never get around to it… you know you guys do this too. I love a living plant in a space, and this one has the added benefit of keeping the lid on the box and acting as a deterrent for the tiny people running about, without being so big and heavy it’s a danger.
I purchased a very thin marble slab tile to use a an oversized coaster of sorts, so I can set glasses and dishes. I’m not going to lie, I eat in bed, a ton… truly. Having a surface to set things so wood won’t get damaged from water or drips is quite nice. But, should I have a little spill, a tissue is easy at hand to do the job. I use Kleenex for essentially everything, including spills around the house. The fact that Kleenex has created boxes that are cute and can stay out in plain sight without having to be hidden away is kind of fabulous and I’m so appreciative. When you constantly have 800 things you are holding and you need to clean up a spill or a drip, being able to pull out one or even a couple of tissues with one free hand (or a finger) instead of having to manhandle the paper towel roll or search for a towel, is perhaps the most convenient thing in the world. If you are a mom, you know exactly what I am talking about. I think this habit started when I had my first baby and has managed to stick around ever since. It’s just so much easier, especially when your children are still small and more hands-on, so I turn to it time and again. Also, it’s quite possible my little family has some of the worst seasonal allergies I have ever seen, so between my excessive and inexplicable use of Kleenex for virtually all household purposes (they actually now have products specifically for household purposes like hand towels, which is amazing – though for me it’s a convenience thing, one box, one thing to buy, 100 uses) and our nasal issues, we go through tissue in bulk. Having several design options in styles that match my decor for any particular space saves me and the mister from bickering when I ask him to stock up and to choose some that ‘match’. That would be the kind of thing that might send him over the edge most of the time, and a non-matching design might literally do me in… but with stylish options like Kleenex has created, all I have to do is provide him with a color and set him loose. For this space I tend to prefer a neutral or a peach and they designs in both! I don’t have to hide the box behind a large pot or lamp (yep you know you have done that too) and it can live right out in the open and that make me a happy gal. It’s the small things in life I guess, isn’t it…
Be sure to check out the Kleenex style finder to see which style suits you best and while you are there check out some of the fun facts about Kleenex throughout their 90 years, it’s pretty interesting and you can see the new designs while you are there and find one that works with your own decor! Celebrate your sinuses or your own weird uses for tissue and let your box live out loud in plain sight!
Disclosure // Thank you to Kleenex for sponsoring this project and for creating an updated, modern, and stylish product package. I think we all appreciate a company who considers our needs as a consumer, at least I know I do!
Design / Shopping
Whether they are straight laced polka dots or a jagged ikat version… get ready because…this… is… happening. That’s right! Already creeping into fashion and accessories, this trend is about to get big. Will it replace the Chevron, Zig Zag, Ikat or Ombre that have hung on so dearly for the last year or more? Well that I can’t comment on, because I personally still love every single one of those trends (things die hard for me, what can I say). What I will say is that I predict this pattern to be a fun one that style embraces quite well. In honor of this new trend, yet not new at all pattern and very timeless look, I thought I would share a few of my faves from around the interwebs… and of course a few of my fave DIY inspirations and items available for purchase so you can bring this dotty fun into your own home.
And of course if you want a lot more dotted inspiration, check out my Dotty pinterest board!
You know I love a good DIY project, so these quite tickle my fancy… Easy and such a big impact, don’t you think?
Of course I can never pass up a cute purchase, and these dotty dolls are to die for!
What do you think? Will you rock some polka dots? I would love to see if you do or already are…
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Chair. We have a special treat today friends with plans for this beauty Cher-Ann built! That periwinkle color is pretty much to die for! If you are interested in a little tutorial on stenciling your builds, head on over to her and check it out! Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 2×6 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Edge banding, optional
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×6 at 40” – Back Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 15” – Front & Back Stretchers
- 4 – 1×4 at 15” – Back Slats
- 2 – 2×2 at 17-3/4” – Front Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 17” – Side Stretchers
- 4 – 1×2 cut with 45 deg miters at each end for seat supports – random length
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 20” – Seat
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the back legs. Cut the angles as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Cut the pieces for the back slats and stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the front face of the legs. The stretcher will be positioned ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be positioned ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the seat supports. They can be any length with 45 degree miters at each end. Drill pocket holes in each mitered end (not shown in the drawing) and secure to the corners of the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches with a jigsaw and apply edge banding if being used. Secure to the chair frame using 1-1/4” screws through the underside of the supports into the bottom of the seat.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Media Armoire! Yahoo the collection continues with another easy build with big style! Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- 2 sets of hinges
- Door pulls
- Magnetic catches for doors
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 43” – Base
- 2 – 1×2 at 15” – Base
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 46” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 44-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 46” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 22-15/16” x 46” – Doors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the base and the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces of the base, as well one long edge of each base piece to tattach the base to the bottom. Assemble the base frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the base frame as shown to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each shorter end then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges and position as shown. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in the two shorter edges as well as one long edge. Position in the cabinet as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the sides and back into the bottom.
Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap between them. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. The top edge of the doors will be flush with the top of the cabinet.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
If you follow me on Instagram you may have already seen a sneaky peaky of a few of these details… If not, then this will be fun and new for all of you! This wall needed some much needed gussying up and a store bought abstract art piece kicked off the project perfectly. I followed that beauty up with 2 DIY projects and one kiddo creation. Hopefully you can guess which is which, and if not, perhaps I need to reevaluate my skills as a Home Decor Art Creationist… eek!
That horizontal work of genius was created by my Monster Mash boy using MDF and acrylic craft paints. Such a great way to have a unique piece with importance. If you want some tips on creating Home Decor art with kids, I will share that soon, in the meantime just consider choosing the colors you want them to use to coordinate with your decor!
Materials: All you need for this art project is a canvas, either new or to be recycled, Black and White Acrylic Craft Paint and a Brush at least 1″ wide.
A breakdown of the other pieces in this gallery wall creation go a little something like this…
1. Abstract Painting purchased at Tuesday Morning
2. Black & White Abstract created HERE in this article! Yay
3. Horizontal kiddo creation
4. DIY Neon Chalkboard Organizer
Truthfully I’m not sure I love this gallery wall in general. I think it is a bit to symetrical and a bit to matchy matchy for several of the pieces. BUT, I love the fact that this Black and White beauty is actually a fabulous before and after, if you will, since this is it’s second life as a piece of art.
Behold… the beauty that once was…
I loved this when I got it 6 years ago for the colors and the landscape scene but at some point shortly after I purchased it, the canvas itself became the value rather than the painting you see before you.The fact is, I scored this beauty for $10 on sale one day at Michael’s and I knew even then that once my heart grew tired of the look, the canvas would come in handy for remaking into something else!
My friends… that day came!
I gave this canvas a nice good double coat of White Titanium acrylic paint from DecoArt, my go to white for Home Decor paintings. It does double duty for me serving as a decent primer as well, even when you are starting with a blank canvas.
Be sure to cover your canvas thoroughly, especially if you are covering an existing painting. For this particular project a vertical brush stroke will work to your advantage, but I recommend having your first layer be horizontal and then following that up with a vertical coat (or 2 if needed). This goes right in line with the age old technique used for painting walls in a multitude of directions when laying down your base color to be sure you have proper coverage especially on a textured piece.
Now for the fun… run a couple of lines of black paint near the bottom of your canvas.
Blend up several inches and wrap the bottom of your canvas as well as the bottom portion of the sides. This will give your piece a more finished look.
Add a bit more and drag the color up about 6 or 7 inches in a vertical irregular pattern all the way across the bottom section.
Add a bit of white just above your black section and pull it down into the top 2 inches to create a gray section and blend well using vertical brush strokes as often as possible.
Add a bit more black just below the gray section and pull it up into the gray just a tiny bit,1 inch will do the trick. You simply want to be sure the gray overlaps the white in an irregular vertical pattern and that the black overlaps the gray in the same manner so that your painting appears to fade black to white in an upwards manner.
Note: if you want to pull down a few small streaks of black from the top as you can see I did, feel free, but this certainly isn’t required.
The top portion of this gallery wall…
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Market Playset! I could not be more excited to share this plan with you kids! *Squeal* I have been eyeing a similar beaut on Pinterest for a while now and I think I need to have one for my very own playspace. Haven’t you guys loved playing store for as long as you can remember? I have for sure… Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- List includes lumber for ONE bench, ONE large crate, ONE small crate, and ONE scale
- 1 – 1” dowel rod at 3’
- 1 – ¾” square dowel rod at 3’
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Cotton cord or twine for scale
- Cotton fabric or a sheet for the canopy
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 6 – 2×2 at 17-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 15” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×2 at 15” – Side Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 21-3/4” – Stretchers
- 4 – 1×2 at 21-3/4” – Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 48” – Shelf & Top
- 1 – ¾”plywood at 12” x 14” – Large Crate Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 14” – Large Crate Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 13-1/2” – Large Crate Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 10” – Small Crate Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 10” – Small Crate Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 9-1/2” – Small Crate Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 12” – Scale Base
- 1 – 1” dowel at 12” – Scale Post
- 1 – ¾” square dowel at 12” – Scale Arm
- 2 – ¾” plywood circles at 5” – Scales
- 2 – 1×3 at 43” – Canopy Supports
- 2 – 1×3 at 60” – Canopy Supports
- 2 – 1×3 at 72” – Canopy Supports
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Position the pieces so that the outside face is flush with the outside face of the legs, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end then assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Position the shelf as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the table frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the large crate. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the notches in the front and back using a jigsaw, then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the small crate. Assemble in the same manner as the large crate.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the scale. Bore a 1” hole in the centered on the base, 1” in from the long edge. Push the dowel post in secure with a couple of brad nails from the back side of the base.
Cut the piece for the arm. Bore 1/4” holes through the top of each end approximately 1” in from each end. Cut a ½” piece of round dowel and drill a hole in the center of it, as well as in the center of the arm. Loosely attach the arm to the post with a screw through the round dowel piece and arm into the post.
Cut the pieces for the scales with a jigsaw. Drill three 1/8” holes in each piece and thread a piece of cord or twine through and knot on the bottom. Gather all three pieces of cord or twine and thread through the holes in the arm. Knot to secure.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the canopy stand. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Secure the canopy supports to one end of the table using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Cut the fabric or sheet to make the canopy and staple in place on the top.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
Now that Spring is almost here… yippee… I am thinking about and feeling more weighted down by the winter months, not to mention my typical craft and DIY blogger hoarding ways, and of course my never ending Design ADD, and I'm getting uber-serious about my goals for The Great Purge…Uber… As the days go on, this project seems to be morphing into something that caters to both my health and my hearth (a.k.a. my home in case you didn't know). I majorly feel the need to transform not only my ways of the world and my home but maybe also my eating habits. And of course please consider my disclaimer that from henceforth when I refer to The Great Purge I don't mean bulimia, that's a serious affliction ya'll! Eek.
Now I'm not going to pretend I have all the answers here, since this is something of a new concept to me, generally speaking… What I mean by that is that I have never taken it upon myself to make such huge sweeping changes of mind, body, and home. So bear with me as I try and err through this process and maybe even consider joining up with me to complete your own 'Great Purge'.
Heck, let's make this a group project and help each other find the best path of progress together! I would love for you to post your tips and tricks or even your Great Purge like goals in the comment section if you have them. I need all the help I can get!
A few green related things (spring edition, remember) I am focusing on right now, and will be adding to my own personal Great Purge program for the coming months:
1. Eat Green, Family Wide: I already eat a bit like a rabbit, and always have, but especially since discovering 2 food related sensitivities (dairy and gluten) during my pregnancy with the bird. Now however, I want to spread the love to the rest of my family and attempt to not only add more green to our diet (and by 'our' I really mean them), but also to remove processed foods, fast foods, and unnecessary ingredients from our daily eats. I want to Purge the Processed and Preservative laced foods for all of us, stat!
2. Buy Smart: This is a multi-faceted task. The fact is, I simply can't avoid buying new items in my daily life. It's just not possible to circumvent this when you consider dietary needs (food), and of course basic project items for my work life as a DIY and Design Blogger. And let's be real, it's just not going to happen that I can go without buying for an extended period of time… but… I can certainly buy smartly and that means choosing items that I really need and not items that I might like later, on a whim, and choosing products with smart packaging that can be recycled or put to good use in a second life. I want to Purge unnecessary purchasing and poorly packaged items.
3. Recycle: Related to the item above (Buy Smart) and is really a large byproduct of purging that I would like to work on. First and foremost as I rid myself of unwanted items in my home, I want to be sure I do it properly by donating or recycling those items that might be of use to others or that are composed of plastic, paper, glass, and anything else that can be reworked into something new. If I paid good money for something, donating it to a good home can at the least make me feel as though it's not a fully wasted cost, but… in general…I want to Purge the wastefulness that has the potential to creep into our daily lives.
4. Cut the Crap and Upcycle Smartly: You see… as a crafty DIY blogger and just by nature, I have this tendency to hoard “craft supplies” or anythng I think might become 'something cool later'. 75% of my personal Great Purge will likely be in this category. Sometimes I actually get around to upcycling discarded items into something fabulous, like these (pictured above)… but most of the time it sits around junking up my shelves and making my office craft space feel chaotic and unorganized, not to mention unusable as a craft space (read… no actual surface space for crafting). I need to sincerely cut the crap and get rid of those hoarded supplies that haven't been put to use in a 90 day period. I want to Purge the wasted possibilities and get down to serious business in the crafty department!
5. Get the Toys Under Control: The other 25% of the disarray in my home seems like an over accumulation of toys. This item goes back to the Buy Smart item and Recycle item. Having so many toys simply isn't necessary and they just don't get use from my Monster Mash boy. There was a constant disater in his room that existed before I recently redid worked updated his space (seen here). During a recent project in there, I actually searched for 20 minutes to find my drill… it was sitting right out in the open and among his toys and I simply couldn't see it. Can you spy it above? A serious problem.. and ridiculous, but whatever… this is about problem solving and not semantics am I right? Might also be a factor of the color, but the seed was planted that things need to change. It's just too much… I want to Purge the chaos and clutter that exists for no other reason than to throw sharp pointed deadly legos into my path of progress…
I will begin with these few items and see if I can get some semblance of control going on here.. Are you in need of a purge too? Do you have any lovely tips to share with me? I would love to know your own tricks for getting out from under this unbearable weight.
This edition of the Great Purge is brought to you by Arrowhead Waters! Thank you Arrowhead, and FYI your clicks on the some of the links above benefit this site financially so click away baby! As per the usual: I received compensation for this article but all opinions are my own and in no way was I told what to say… Duh! Keepin it Real…
Some Important Facts for you to consider and peruse at your convenience…
Recycling is one of the easiest and most beneficial ways we can all help the environment. Sadly, only about 30% of PET plastic bottles get recycled. For recycling to work, we all have to do our part. Unfortunately, not all plastic bottles are made with recycled plastic. It’s Arrowheads goal to continue increasing the use of recycled materials in their bottles, but they need everyone’s help. Currently, there isn’t enough recycled plastic available for Arrowhead to make 100% rPET bottles. Make recycling a part of your family’s routine. 1. U.S. plastic beverage bottle recycling rates are only at about 30%2. 2.8 Billion plastic bottles ended up in California landfills in 20113. Even though a package says it is “100% recycleABLE”, that does not mean it is made with recyclED plastic. It just means it CAN BE recycled. In fact, most containers are not made of recycled plastic. 1. Arrowhead’s new ReBorn™ bottle is made with 50% recycled plastic and demonstrates how the plastic you recycle can be given a new life.2. Due to the limited supply of high quality recycled plastic, we need your help in recycling so companies like Arrowhead® 100% Mountain Spring Water can use more recycled plastic in our products!
Showcase
I was able to buld these pieces thanks to plans for the coffee table and the knowledge I learned here helped me build the entertainment center!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Media Tower! Not much needs to be said about the awesomeness of this collection and these pieces! Yahoo.. Xx… Rayan
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink bit for drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 5 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1 set of hinges
- Door Pull
- Magnetic catch for door
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 3-1/2” – Legs
- 2– 2×2 at 17” – Base Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 19” – Base Frame
- 2 – 1×3 at 17” – Base Inner Frame
- 2 – 1×3 at 17-1/2” – Base Inner Frame
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 22” – Base Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 26-1/2” – Base Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 26-1/2” – Base Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Base Shelf
- 4 – 2×2 at 37-1/2” – Top Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 19” – Top Frames
- 2 – 2×2 at 22” – Top Frames
- 6 – 2×2 at 14” – Top Stretchers
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 19” – Top Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 28” – Door
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and base frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the inner frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long edge of each piece to attach the base bottom. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then insert the frame into the base frame as shown. Secure using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the base bottom. Secure to the inner frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the bottom. The back of the bottom will be flush with the back of the base frame.
Cut the pieces for the base sides and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the base back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in the two shorter edges as well as one long edge. Position in the cabinet as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the base top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the top frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as each end of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the frames to the base as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each piece. Attach to the top frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the shelves will be flush with the top of each stretcher and frame piece.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the door. Attach the hinges to the door, then install the door in the cabinet. Attach the magnetic catch according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ava Desk! I pretty sure this gal looks good regardless of her use. Desk, end table, console… she's just gorgeous and what a simple build she is!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 4 – 1×3 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/2” screws
- One 28” x 52” piece of Plexiglas
- Clear rubber bumpers (to place the glass on the frame)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 20” – Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 42” – Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 39” – Stretcher
- 4 – 1×3 at 37-5/8” – X
- 4 – 1×3 at 17-7/8” – X
- 4 – 1×3 at 18-1/8” – X
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the Xs. Cut the angles as shown – they are NOT 45 deg angles! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as shown. Assemble the Xs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws maintaining the dimensions as shown. Attach two X assemblies to each other (with the pocket holes facing in) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the center of each X assembly using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the frame on the X assemblies with the pocket holes facing down and secure using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk screws.
Step 4
Position the rubber bumpers on the frame and set the Plexiglass on top.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Louis made me a new vanity to go in our room. Now I don’t have to sit on the bathroom counter to do my hair and makeup!
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
